Shauna Coxsey

Shauna Coxsey

Coxsey in August 2012
Personal information
Born (1993-01-27) 27 January 1993
Runcorn, Cheshire, England
Height 163 cm (5 ft 4 in)
Weight 58 kg (128 lb)
Website ShaunaCoxsey.co.uk
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering
Highest grade
Known for Winning the Bouldering World Cup in 2016
Medal record
Climbing World Cup
Winner 2016 Bouldering
2015 Bouldering
2014 Bouldering
2012 Bouldering
La Sportiva Legends Only
2015 Bouldering
British Championships
2016 Bouldering
2015 Bouldering
2013 Bouldering
2012 Lead
2012 Bouldering
The CWIF
2016 Bouldering
2015 Bouldering
2014 Bouldering
2013 Bouldering
2012 Bouldering
Updated on 2 May 2016.

Shauna Coxsey MBE (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber. She is known for winning the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in 2016.[1]

Early life

Coxsey was born and raised in Runcorn, Cheshire. She began climbing at age four, after being inspired by seeing French climber Catherine Destivelle on television climbing in Mali.[2]

Career

Coxsey is mainly active in competition climbing and has participated in several international competitions in bouldering. In 2012, Coxsey was sponsored by Five Ten. She is also sponsored by Red Bull, Adidas and the Climbing Hangar in Liverpool.

In 2012, she won the 9th edition of the competition Melloblocco, and she placed 2nd in the World Cup stages in Log-Dragomer and Innsbruck.[3]

In 2013, she sent (ascended cleanly) her first problem graded 8B (V13)  when she climbed Nuthin' But Sunshine in Rocky Mountain National Park.[4] In November, she was appointed one of the UK's first British Mountaineering Council Ambassadors.[5]

In 2014, Coxsey placed second overall in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup.,[6] and fourth at the Bouldering World Championships in Munich.[7] In the same year, she became the third female ever to boulder 8B+ (V14) when she topped New Baseline in Magic Wood near Chur, Switzerland.[8]

In late 2016, she suffered a shoulder injury, preventing her from competing in that year's Bouldering World Championships[9] despite topping the overall standings in the Bouldering World Cup,.[10]

In 2017, she won four Bouldering World Cup stages,[9] which makes her currently the top climber in the overall Bouldering World Cup rankings.[1]

Coxsey was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in the 2016 Birthday Honours for services to climbing.[11][12]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[1]

Discipline 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Bouldering 38 19 3 4 2 2 1

Climbing World Championships

Youth[9]

Discipline 2008
Youth B		 2009
Youth A
Lead 9 19

Adult[9]

Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016
Bouldering 16 - 4 -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Bouldering[9]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 3 3
2013 1 2 3
2014 2 3 1 6
2015 1 3 4
2016 4 2 6
2017 4 1 5
Total 11 10 6 27

Outdoor bouldering

Coxsey is the first British female to climb the V12, V13, and V14 grades.

V14 (8B+):

  • New Base Line - Magic Wood (SWI) - 12 July 2014 - First female ascent of Bernd Zangerl's Boulder (2002)[13]

V13 (8B):

  • Ropes Of Maui - Dinas Mot (GBR) - 5 April 2016 - First female ascent (first ascent by Pete Robins, 2014)[14]
  • One Summer In Paradise - Magic Wood (SWI) - 3 July 2014 - Second female ascent (first ascent by Martin Keller, 2005)[15]
  • Zarzaparilla - Albarracin (ESP) - 31 March 2014 - First female ascent[16]
  • Nuthin But Sunshine - Lower Chaos (Rocky Mountain National Park, USA) - 26 June 2013 - First female ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham, 2000)[17]

References

  1. 1 2 3 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  2. ↑ Coxsey, Shauna (10 April 2017). "The Paywall". Shauna Coxsey's blog.
  3. ↑ "IFSC Athlete Profile - Shauna Coxsey". www.ifsc-climbing.org. 18 May 2012. Retrieved 29 March 2013.
  4. ↑ Chris Parker (27 June 2013). "Shauna Coxsey Cranks First Female Ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine - V13". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 27 June 2013.
  5. ↑ "Inspirational climbers become BMC Ambassadors". thebmc.co.uk.
  6. ↑ "Shauna Coxsey Runner Up in IFSC Climbing World Cup". ifsc-climbing.org.
  7. ↑ "Results of the IFSC World Championships Munich 2014 - Boulder". ifsc-climbing.org.
  8. ↑ "Shauna Coxsey sets a New Baseline for Britain". thebmc.co.uk.
  9. 1 2 3 4 5 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Coxsey's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  10. ↑ McCracken, Steven (26 September 2016). "Ondra Retains Crown at 2016 Paris World Championships". Vertical Gear.
  11. ↑ "No. 61608". The London Gazette (Supplement). 11 June 2016. p. B17.
  12. ↑ The Queen’s Birthday Honours 2016, Cabinet Office, 10 June 2016, retrieved 2016-06-10
  13. ↑ "Shauna Coxsey climbs New Base Line, third female V14 ever". OnBouldering.com. 12 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  14. ↑ "Shauna Coxsey climbs Ropes of Maui". OnBouldering.com. 7 April 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  15. ↑ "One Summer in Paradise, another 8B for Coxsey". OnBouldering.com. 4 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  16. ↑ Duncan Campbell (April 2014). "Shauna Coxsey Climbs 2nd 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  17. ↑ Björn Pohl (June 2013). "VIDEO: Shauna Coxsey climbs Nuthin' but sunshine, 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
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