Omega Seamaster

Omega Seamaster
Type Automatic/Quartz
Display Analogue
Introduced 1948

The Omega Seamaster is a line of automatic winding chronometer and quartz watches that Omega has produced since 1948. The Seamaster is particularly popular among celebrities, with famous wearers including Prince William, Joe Biden, Jeremy Clarkson, Gabriel Holmes and Adam Savage. An Omega Seamaster typically has a stainless steel case and bracelet (Bond style with Omega symbol clasp), screw-in crown and case-back, engraved with the Omega hippocampus logo, up to 1200-metre water resistant, luminescent hands, unidirectional bezel, blue, silver or black dial with orange accents, sapphire crystal (anti-reflective) and helium release valve.

Models

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m/2000ft diving watch

Omega produces several models of Seamaster watches, with numerous variations of color, bracelet, movement, and casing sizes.

James Bond

Omega has been associated with James Bond movies since 1995. That year, Pierce Brosnan took over the role of James Bond and wore the Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Quartz in the movie GoldenEye. In all later films, Brosnan wore an Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Chronometer (model 2531.80.00). In most of Brosnan's 007 films, the helium release valve is transformed into improbable hidden gadgets such as a laser cutter (GoldenEye) or remote detonator (Tomorrow Never Dies).[2]

Before 1995, actors portraying James Bond had usually won the Rolex Submariner (Reference 6538), albeit for a brief period where actor Roger Moore wore a quartz watch in the late 1970s.[3] The Bond film producers wanted to update the image of the fictional "super-spy" to a more distinctly sophisticated "Euro" look.[4] The main reason for the switch to the Omega Diver 300M for the Bond franchise is because of Lindy Hemming, a British woman, in charge of costume/wardrobe for the new movies. At the time she thought the Seamaster looked the part of a rogue special operative who also needed the ability to dress up. She recognized the history of Omega Seamasters in the British military (notably the Special Boat Service, synonymous with the character of Bond) which furthered her decision.[5]

The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M, commemorative edition for the 40th anniversary of James Bond with 007 logos. The second crown (at 10 o'clock) is a Helium release valve to allow helium out of the watch after wearing the watch in a diving bell with an atmosphere rich in helium.

For the 40th anniversary of James Bond (2002), a commemorative edition of the Diver 300M chronometer was made available, model 2537.80.00 (10,007 units). The watch is identical to the model 2531.80.00 except the blue watch dial had a 007 logo inscribed across it and also machined into the case-back. The band also had 007 inscribed on the clasp.[6]

Daniel Craig, the current James Bond of Casino Royale, Quantum of Solace and Skyfall, also wears the Omega Seamaster: the Seamaster Planet Ocean and Seamaster Diver 300 M in Casino Royale, and even goes so far as to mention Omega by name in the film when questioned by Vesper Lynd. In connection with the launch of the film, Omega released a 007-special of the Professional 300M, featuring the 007-gun logo on the second hand and the rifle pattern on the watch face, this being a stylized representation of the gunbarrel sequence of Bond movies.[7]

Omega released a second James Bond limited edition watch in 2006. This was a Seamaster Planet Ocean model with a limited production of 5007 units. The model is similar to what Craig wears earlier on in the film; however, it has a small orange-colored 007 logo on the second hand, an engraved case-back signifying the Bond connection, and an engraved 007 on the clasp.[8] In Quantum of Solace, Craig wears the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean with a black face and steel bracelet (42 mm version). Another limited edition was released featuring the checkered "PPK grip" face with the Quantum of Solace logo over it.

The Seamaster Professional Diver 300 M and then later the 600 M Planet Ocean was worn by James Bond in five Bond movies. These Seamasters are made of stainless steel on a stainless steel bracelet, fitted with a blue dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with blue ring and a sapphire crystal.[9]

Co-Axial Movement

The term Co-Axial represents a specialized watch escapement exclusive to Omega that was developed in 1970 by British horologist and watchmaker George Daniels. The Swiss Lever escapement has been the standard in horology for hundreds of years. The escapement provides the release of energy from the mainspring to the going train that further controls the function of the moving parts that measure time and other complications. The Swiss lever, although the mainstay in the industry, has the capability to be strong on energy conservation but needs considerable lubrication between the impulse pallet and the escape wheel teeth due to sliding friction. This causes considerable wear on the lubrication over time and may cause wear on the pallet or escape wheel. Because of this, regular service (4–5 years) is recommended to clean, lubricate, and possibly replace parts.[10] With the co-axial escapement, the impulse is done with a push to the jewels rather than a sliding fashion. In this design the work is divided between two major wheels of the escapement. Daniels brought his desire to industrialize his escapement to many Swiss manufacturers and he was ultimately denied. Omega in 1999 took on Daniels design with the insight of Nicolas Hayek who saw Omega as a brand of innovation and creativity who would rise to the top of the Swiss horological spectrum with the production of the co-axial escapement. He was right and Omega is one of the largest Swiss manufacturers and the second largest producer of COSC Officially Certified Chronometers, next to Rolex with Breitling being third, with every one of their movements COSC chronometers. The first co-axial movement to be brought to the public was the Omega cal. 2500, with different variations being listed as A,B,C, and D. This movement was built from the Omega "in-family" cal. 1120 (finished chronometer grade ETA 2892-A with two extra jewels) A, B, and C are similar two tier co-axial movements, but C is the first version to solve certain problems prevalent in A and B. For example, the vibrations per hour were originally 28,800 (standard for most Swiss watches with Swiss Lever Escapements) but later lowered to 25,200 (7 vs 8 v beats a second). This change was noted that it was the optimal working vibration of the movement and may contribute to lower service intervals. The Co-axial D variation was made to allow for an even more efficient 3 tier escapement. This development of technology helped the company innovate the 8400 (no date)/8500(w/date complication)/9300 (chronograph) three tier in-house movements. The co-axial D variation is still made specifically for the Omega Diver 300m co-axial. The Diver 300m, a watch produced since 1993 has a certain shape and size that is characteristic of this watch, the 2500 is slender enough to keep the case shape and size proportionate on the Diver 300m (also known as the SMP).

Master Co-Axial/ Master Chronometer

The next generation of watchmaking focuses on anti-magnetic movements. According to studies by the COSC, the majority of watches in for service from 4+ years are primarily suffering accuracy issues due to magnetized movements. Many Swiss watch institutions have made additional efforts to alleviate the problem of magnetization. Some of the technology and practices include iron cages around the movement, silicon hairspring (Omega) (spring in the balance wheel of the escapement), Parachrom hairspring (Rolex), induction of plastic parts, and using non-magnetic metals. Only until recently has any watch maker made a fully anti-magnetic movement. The first watch with over 15,000 Gauss was the Omega Aqua Terra Gauss. The first full anti-magnetic movement and Master Chronometer certified by the COSC is the Omega Constellation "Pie-Pan" Globemaster. This movement is capable of having a see-through case-back (the cal. 8400 in the new SM300) characterized by a movement with fully anti-magnetic parts. This is the beginning of a new generation of watch movements, re-institutionalizing the mechanical movement that once was deemed obsolete by the quartz movement of the 1970s to the present day.

See also

References

  1. ↑ http://www.portero.com/1960-s-omega-seamaster-deville-vintage-mens-watch-automatic-14k-gold-filled
  2. ↑
  3. ↑
  4. ↑ "James Bond's Choice: The Omega Seamaster", commanderbond.net, 2004-03-29 (retrieved on 2007-02-21).
  5. ↑
  6. ↑ Lara Magzan, "The business of Bond...James Bond", CNN/Money, 2002-11-25 (retrieved on 2007-02-21).
  7. ↑ Devin Zydel, "Omega Presents James Bond Exhibition in Geneva", Commanderbond.net 2007-01-06 (retrieved on 2007-02-21).
  8. ↑ Devin Zydel, "Omega Casino Royale Limited Series Planet Ocean Watch Announced", commanderbond.net 2006-11-05 (retrieved on 2007-02-21).
  9. ↑ http://www.omega.ch/index.php?id=438&col=2
  10. ↑ "Co-axial V Lever". Omega Forums. Retrieved 2016-01-21.
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