Natural hair movement

A woman with a tiny Afro.

The natural hair movement is a movement which encourages women of African descent to keep their natural afro-textured hair. Born in the USA during the 2000s,[1][2] this movement is named "mouvement nappy" in French-speaking countries.[3][4][5][6]

Definition and features

The movement designates black women who wear afro-textured hair in its natural, coiled or curly state (as well as those who do not chemically straighten their hair but may still choose to wear it straight). The word "nappy" has been subjected to denigration since the Atlantic slave trade. Thereafter, some Afrodescendants have positively taken the word back, considered in francophone countries as a backronym made up of "natural" and "happy."[3][7][8][9]

These women, called "nappy girls" or "nappies," give "relaxing" up and let their hair grow in its natural texture. Their hairstyles can be simple or more sophisticated, by the adoption of hair twists, braids or even locks.[3][10] Not everyone who wears their natural hair chooses to forgo all (non-chemical) forms of straightening or styling. Additionally, "being natural" does not necessarily indicate a strict adherence to any particular type of product or styling regimen; nor should it be tied exclusively with certain social or political beliefs. Women (and men) choose, or are forced into, being natural for a wide variety of reasons. Some may even not like the term "nappy/nappies."

Nappy hair: History of Afro-descendants

The unconscious relationship that some Afrodescendants have with their afro-textured hair can be approached in a reverse chronological order.

Around 2005 an underground documentary film hit the independent film circuit called "My Nappy ROOTS: A Journey through Black Hairitage". The highly acclaimed film won multiple awards and played on the college circuit. With years of research, the film historically looked at the word "Nappy"; "My Nappy ROOTS" chronicled over 400 years (and 200 hours of footage) of Afro hair culture starting in Africa through the middle passage, reconstruction the creation of the Black hair industry to current day 2008. It became the definitive film on the history, culture, and economics on Black hair. The urban story postulated the word 'Nappy' came from the cotton plant, the small cotton ball inside the plant was called a 'nap'. The word nappy was born because it resembled the texture of unkempt Afro-textured hair. In an effort to be more acceptable socially, it was more desirable to have straight hair like the dominant culture. Once mixed race children were born, Black people internalized that 'Nappy' hair was 'bad' unacceptable hair. This historic film has never been publicly released. It wasn't until the public lawsuit in 2009 with Chris Rock's "Good Hair" that the concept of Nappy (and use of chemicals) was publicized worldwide. The world understood the concept of "good and bad hair" or "political hair" commonly referred to in the African American community. My Nappy ROOTS began screening to sold-out audiences worldwide. International screenings of the film, MNR and the organization called International Black Hairitage and the internet helped to introduce the word "Nappy" to Afro cultures that did not know the word or its meaning. From the US to UK, France, and Africa, some black women have realized that their nappy hair can be beautiful to them. This calls into question the subconscious internalized association nappy = ugly; They stop therefore to comply with the dominant aesthetic ideal of beautiful hair = smooth hair. Through their hair, the nappies thus reconcile with their original African heritage.[3][11][12]

This return to naturalness, at the organic era,[13][14] has been encouraged by the awareness of the harmful effects of relaxers on the scalp: Itches, red patches, burns, broken hairs or worse: alopecia (hair loss). However, among black women, 98% have had their hair straightened at least once in their lives, and relaxers have represented no less than 70% of the cosmetic purchases carried out by the population. In the 1980s-1990s, hair straightening was mainstreamed.[8]

Sooner, in the 1970s-1980s, the ′Jheri curl′, another technique to loosening the nappy hair, became fashionable in the African American community, popularized especially by some celebrities such as Michael Jackson, seen in the music video for his song Thriller.

During these same years, a new hairstyle appeared too: dreadlocks (naturally matted hair locks), popularized by Bob Marley and more generally by reggae music and the Rastafarian movement. This hairstyle can be a mark of social and spiritual distinctions: "The adoption of long or very atypical hair [can reflect] rebellion or a refusal of the dominant values."[9][15]

An ashanti African comb (Ghana).

In the period between the 1960s-1970s, the racial segregation between the black and the white reigned in the United States. Angela Davis, a young human rights activist and member of the revolutionary movement Black Panthers created in 1966, made the Afro hairstyle famous. This dense and spherical hairdressing thus symbolized the emancipation and cultural affirmation of the African Americans. It was adopted by many stars like Diana Ross and the Jackson 5.[4][6][7][9][16]

A century earlier, in 1865, slavery was abolished at the end of the American Civil War. Nevertheless, black populations looked for straightening their nappy hair, so as to move closer to the dominant aesthetics, if only to find employment. At the time, the most used instrument was the hot comb, until 1909, when Garrett A. Morgan invented a revolutionary relaxer cream.[6][7][15][17]

During the Atlantic slave trade, the conditions of servitude did not allow to take care of one's hair, which was subjected to denigration by the master: "Nappy′" became a pejorative term.[18][19]

The deportation of millions of Africans get them separated from their originally aesthetic activities regarding hair care.[17]

In the ancestral traditions, hairdressing was "an activity during which the genealogies' history and many other cultural features were taught to children. Every African hairdressing was codified according to the ethnic group and by status."[6]

It is the loss of this instrument [the African comb], all the more valuable that it is essential to the nappy hair care, which was going to dissociate Black people from the nature of their own hair, considered therefore as "difficult to comb".... The African was snatched from his comb when he was snatched from his native land and thus taken away from an irreplaceable cultural symbol, legacy, and accessory from his beauty culture.
— Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu: l'histoire d'une aliénation

The natural hair movement today

For about ten years, thanks to Web 2.0, a growing number of people have been sharing their beauty advice via:

These websites have expanded the natural hair movement around the world so as to highlight the beauty of natural African hair.[3][4][17]

Each woman has her own reasons to retrieve her authenticity; some of them want to preserve their hair against aggressive hair styling methods (weaves too tight) or harmful straightening chemical products; for others, they simply prefer nappy hair aesthetically or in spite of the pressure from the dominant aesthetics.[6][7][8][11]

The natural hair movement has been encouraged by the choice performed by some stars to abandon straightening in favor of a comeback to their natural hair. Among the nappies icons, there are Erykah Badu,[67][68] Aïssa Maïga,[3][69] Lupita Nyong'o,[70][71] Solange Knowles,[3][9][11][17][72] Inna Modja,[3][8][73] Janelle Monáe,[4][69]Viola Davis,[74][75] Tracee Ellis-Ross,[74][76] and Teyona Parris[74][77].

Outside of USA, several events have developed in order to accompany the natural hair movement, particularly in France and in Africa:

Branding "ethnic" hair

With the popularity of "going natural", hair care suppliers have seen a rapid decrease in the purchase of relaxers, the harsh chemical hair straightener. An industry that was once worth an estimated $774 million, relaxer sales have gone down 26% over the last five years, 2013 numbers report.[82] Sales are estimated to decrease to 45% by 2019.[82]

Women who wear their hair natural are now spending more money on products that will achieve the best result for their hair, and hair care suppliers and markets are taking note. Black consumers represent a lucrative market for hair care suppliers, so the brands now have to adjust for the new hair movement.[82] Brands have greatly lowered their production of relaxers and instead now produce more natural-friendly products. In choosing what products to consume, black consumers rely heavily on social media to gauge results from others who have gone natural. They have done this by the use of YouTube videos as tutorials on how to use products efficiently and create reviews for potential consumers to watch. Popular brands and products include Shea Moisture, Deva Curl, and Carol's Daughter.[83]

Controversy

Many black women have faced pushback from wearing their hair in naturally curly styles or other non-straight, protective styles. At the 2015 Oscars ceremony, Fashion Police star Guliana Rancic commented that the hair of teen star Zendaya Coleman—who chose to wear locs on the red carpet—must have smelled of “patchouli oil or weed.” This is in contrast to Rancic praising the look as “edgy” when worn by Kylie Jenner.[84][85]

Many women have found that they are treated unjustly simply because of the natural way their hair grows. Natural hair can be deemed as “unprofessional,” turning it into a fireable offense. For example, a 12-year-old student at a Florida Christian school with natural hair "was given one week to decide whether to cut her hair or leave the academy that she has attended since third grade" after she complained to school officials about being bullied by other students.[86] In March 2014, the Department of Defense issued a set of guidelines that banned all afros, dreadlocks, braids, and twists that were greater than ¼” in diameter. Guideline such as these clearly disproportionately affect and target those of African descent.[87] They later rolled back the guidelines that same year in August, allowing two-strand twists, the Army increased the size of permissible braids, and the Army removed the word "unkempt" from their guidelines.[88] In April 2016, a female Toronto Zara employee was reprimanded for wearing her hair in a braided hairstyle, which resulted in her filing a complaint with the Ontario Human Rights Commission.[89]

Criticisms

Some nappies, dubbed "nappex" (nappies considered extremists), have become radicalized and claimed that hair straightening is a mark of self-denial. These guilt-creating considerations are denounced by India Arie and her song I Am Not My Hair.[17]

Nappy lexicon

Bantu Knots styled into a mohawk.

Several words are frequently used in the vocabulary of the natural hair movement:[4][10][90][91][92]

See also

Filmography

Notes and references

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Josephine Metcalf and Dr. Carina Spaulding, African American Culture and Society After Rodney King: Provocations and Protests, Progression and "Post-Racialism", Ashgate Publishing Limited, 25/06/2015
  2. ↑ Bustle, The History Of Natural Black Hair, Plus How 2014's Afro Has A Whole New Meaning , 20/06/2014
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Le Monde, Crépues et fières de l’être, 05/02/2015
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Le Point, Nappy, ce mouvement conquérant de la planète afro, 19/12//2014
  5. ↑ Good Hair, 2009 movie directy by Jeff Stilson and produced by Chris Rock.
  6. 1 2 3 4 5 Jeune Afrique, Juliette Smeralda : « Le modèle de beauté qu'on vend aux femmes du continent n'est pas africain », 06/11/2014
  7. 1 2 3 4 RFI, Le mouvement Nappy : défrisage et cheveux crépus, released on 16/01/2013
  8. 1 2 3 4 France Ô, La beauté noire, un marché porteur, released in 2014
  9. 1 2 3 4 5 TV5 Monde, Dépigmentation de la peau et phénomène Nappy, January 2015
  10. 1 2 L'Express, Parlez-vous le nappy?, 03/10/2012
  11. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Jeune Afrique, Mode : La vague « Nappy » déferle en Afrique, 06/11/2014
  12. ↑ Mwalimu J. Shujaa, Kenya J. Shujaa, The SAGE Encyclopedia of African Cultural Heritage in North America, SAGE Publications, 15/02/2015
  13. ↑ Madame Figaro, Les cheveux ont faim, 11/11/2007
  14. ↑ INA, La phytothérapie, 07/11/2007
  15. 1 2 Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation, Jasor, 2004
  16. ↑ Marie Claire,Le nappy hair, nouvelle tendance des cheveux Afro30/04/2015
  17. 1 2 3 4 5 Madame Figaro, Nappy hair : la revanche des femmes noires, 25/07/2014
  18. ↑ Maxine Leeds Craig, Ain't I a Beauty Queen?: Black Women, Beauty, and the Politics of Race, Oxford University Press, 2002
  19. ↑ Common Dreams NewsCenter, Why 'Nappy' Is Offensive', 12/04/2007
  20. 1 2 3 4 Johnson Elizabeth, Resistance and Empowerment in Black Women's Hair /Styling, Ashgate, 28/07/2013
  21. ↑ Huffington Post, Leila Noelliste's Life May Be Unconventional, But It's Awesome, 13/06/2014
  22. ↑ Business Wire, Ultra/Standard Acquires TextureMedia, 21/09/2015
  23. ↑ Huffington Post, CurlyNikki Responds To Ebony.com's Rejection Of White Women Joining #TeamNatural, 07/07/2014
  24. ↑ Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps, Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America, St. Martin's Press, 12/01/2002
  25. 1 2 Lola Akingbola, 8 Weeks to Longer Hair!: A Guide for the Afro-Caribbean Woman. Discover Your Hair's Growth Potential!, Xlibris, 15/07/2013
  26. ↑ Jeffery A. Riley, 2011 Social Media Directory: The Ultimate Guide to Facebook, Twitter, and LinkedIn Resources, Que Publishing, 25/08/2010
  27. ↑ Derald Wing Sue, Miguel E. Gallardo and Helen A. Neville, Case Studies in Multicultural Counseling and Therapy, John Wiley & Sons, 12/08/2013
  28. ↑ "Meet the Founder of Un-ruly: A Place for Black Hair and Women - Man Repeller". Man Repeller. Retrieved 2016-03-20.
  29. ↑ "Hair doc digs deep into black roots". NY Daily News. Retrieved 2016-03-20.
  30. ↑ "9 Must-Follow Beauty Blogs for Girls With Natural Hair". Byrdie. Retrieved 2016-03-20.
  31. ↑ Le Parisien, Les nappys : afro, belles et contentes, 10/04/2014
  32. ↑ Amina, Fatou N’diaye, 26/04/2014
  33. ↑ RFI, Le mouvement Nappy : défrisage et cheveux crépus, 16/01/2013
  34. ↑ Alexa, Audience Afrobelle.com in France, retrieved 30/05/2015
  35. ↑ Maxi, Cheveux afro : les coiffer sans difficulté, 10/06/2015
  36. 1 2 3 Salon Boucles d'Ébène, Bloguer en 2015 : Une passion ou un métier, 30/05/2015
  37. ↑ L'Express, Ivy Mag: « La beauté d’aujourd’hui est multiple et diversifiée », 15/02/2013
  38. ↑ Diane Carol Bailey and Diane Da Costa, Milady Standard Natural Hair Care & Braiding, Cengage Learning, 03/07/2013
  39. ↑ Bustle, The Curlmix Subscription Box Is Like Birchbox For Curly Girls Who Love To DIY, 02/09/2015
  40. ↑ Hellocoton, Masque Super hydratant Coco, Huile d'avocat et Banane inspiré de Racines Crépues - Par Maïka, 01/05/2013
  41. ↑ 42 513 ′Likes′ on Facebook the 30/08/2015
  42. ↑ Le Monde, Du cheveu à retordre au salon « Boucles d’Ebène », 01/06/2015
  43. 1 2 Réseau Outre-Mer première, Aline Tacite, fondatrice du salon Boucles d'Ébène : "Nous chérissons nos cheveux crépus, frisés, bouclés et ondulés", 30/05/2015
  44. 1 2 Juliette Sméralda, Du Cheveu défrisé au cheveu crépu, Broché, December 2012
  45. ↑ L'Express, Bellebene organise sa Hair Academy d'été spéciale cheveux bouclés, 24/06/2013
  46. ↑ Elle, Les cheveux crépus et frisés ont leur salon, 28/06/2013
  47. 1 2 Elle Belgique, La Natural Hair Academy : le rendez-vous des nappy girls, 17/03/2014
  48. 1 2 Madame Figaro, Beautiful black blogs : huit filles à suivre sur le Net, 29/06/2015
  49. ↑ Cosmopolitan, Black and Beautiful, blog à la Une Beauté de Cosmo, retrieved 01/09/2015
  50. ↑ 78 018 ′Likes′ on Facebook the 06/10/2015
  51. ↑ CNN International, Ivory Coast's natural hair movement is turning heads, 17/02/2015
  52. ↑ Camer Post, Cameroun – Soins capillaires : Le cheveu naturel revient au galop, 17/07/2015
  53. ↑ Destiny, Hair recipe: Aisha’s daily spritz, 06/07/2015
  54. ↑ Le Journal du Mali, Nappy de Bamako : Plus qu’un phénomène de mode, un retour aux sources, 10/09/2015
  55. ↑ NigerDiaspora.net, Beauté africaine - Le retour de l'afro : Elles sont de plus en plus nombreuses à se mettre au nappy et à l'afro., 05/10/2014
  56. ↑ Madame Figaro, Du Web à la grande distribution, le marché de la beauté noire fait sa révolution, 15/07/2015
  57. ↑ PRWeb, NY-Based Caribbean Food Retailer Turns 14, Offers Free Shipping to US Troops, 06/10/2007
  58. ↑ Huffington Post, How to Get Rid of Black Women With Kinky Hair, 16/07/2014
  59. ↑ Publishers Weekly, Indie Spotlight on Children’s Authors, 27/06/2014
  60. ↑ The New York Times, Black Hair, Still Tangled in Politics, 26/08/2009
  61. ↑ CNN International, Bronner Bros. show highlights natural hair, 22/02/2011
  62. ↑ Huffington Post, Open Letter to Allure, The New York Times and Other "Lamestream" Publications: If You Don't Know, You Better Ask Somebody, 08/07/2015
  63. ↑ Madame Figaro, Notre but : banaliser la mode afro et la beauté ethnique. , 26/01/2012
  64. ↑ Le Point, En images : top 10 des meilleurs blogs féminins lifestyle, 05/09/2014
  65. ↑ Le Monde, A quand une femme noire en couverture de "Elle" ?, 31/01/2012
  66. ↑ MediaUpdate, AfroStyle Magazine issue 11 out now, 07/04/2015
  67. ↑ Hellocoton, Perruque afro : nappy ou pas nappy?, 05/04/2011
  68. ↑ Abidjan.net, Nappy attitude: Back to the roots !, 07/10/2011
  69. 1 2 L'Express, Jolies Nappy Girls, 26/01/2012
  70. ↑ Réseau Outre-Mer 1re, La beauté noire et métisse, 05/05/2015
  71. ↑ Madame Figaro, Cheveu afro : le naturel reprend ses droits, 17/052015
  72. ↑ Mouv', Phénomène nappy : les Sénégalaises revendiquent leur coupe afro, 13/01/2014
  73. ↑ Aufeminin, Coiffure afro : Le nappy sexy d'Inna Modja, 07/08/2015
  74. 1 2 3 "Natural Hair". Natural Hair. Retrieved 2016-04-19.
  75. ↑ "How to Get Viola Davis's Gorgeous Natural Hair". InStyle.com. Retrieved 2016-04-19.
  76. ↑ Ogunnaike, Nikki. "Tracee Ellis Ross on Her Curly Natural Hair". Glamour. Retrieved 2016-04-19.
  77. ↑ "Curly Commentary: Teyonah Parris' Natural Hair Epiphany". Essence.com. 2013-04-10. Retrieved 2016-04-19.
  78. ↑ Le Monde, Salon Boucles d’ébène (30 May - 1st June), 27/05/2015
  79. ↑ FashizBlack, Océane Lebubura élue Miss NAPPY Paris 2015, 04/12/2014
  80. ↑ Mediapart, 1ères Massalia Nappy Days : Marseille sous le signe de la créativité et de la beauté au naturel, 17/09/2014
  81. ↑ FashizBlack, Abidjan accueille « Crépu d’Ebène », son 1er festival dédié aux cheveux naturels, 12/08/2014
  82. 1 2 3 "Hair relaxer sales decline 26% over the past five years | Mintel.com". www.mintel.com. Retrieved 2016-04-18.
  83. ↑ "Products". The Natural Hair Movement. Retrieved 2016-04-18.
  84. ↑ "Giuliana Rancic Clarifies Apology to Zendaya After Oscar Night Comments About Her Dreadlocks". PEOPLE.com. Retrieved 2016-04-18.
  85. ↑ "Cultural Appropriation". The Natural Hair Movement. Retrieved 2016-04-18.
  86. ↑ "Florida School Threatens to Expel African-American Girl for Wearing Natural Hair". Essence.com. 2013-11-26. Retrieved 2016-04-19.
  87. ↑ "Because Our Hair Is Always Political: 6 Black Women Fired For Their Hairstyles". Clutch Magazine. Retrieved 2016-04-18.
  88. ↑ Rhodan, Maya. "U.S. Military Rolls Back Restrictions on Black Hairstyles". TIME.com. Retrieved 2016-04-19.
  89. ↑ "Zara employee humiliated after managers try to 'fix' her hair". www.cbc.ca. Retrieved 2016-04-19.
  90. ↑ Hellocoton, Le lexique Nappy, 21/04/2013
  91. ↑ Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair, SAJA Publishing Company, 11/04/2014
  92. ↑ Leslie DuBois, Natural Beauty, Little Prince Publishing, 21/09/2014

Bibliography

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