Kim Ja-in

Jain Kim

Jain Kim in Vienna, 2010
Personal information
Nationality South Korea
Born (1988-09-11) September 11, 1988
Goyang, South Korea
Residence Ganbuk-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Height 153 cm (5 ft 0 in)
Weight 42 kg (93 lb)
Website jainkim.co.kr
Climbing career
Type of climber Sport climbing (Lead climbing and Bouldering)
Highest grade
Known for Winning the World Cup three times and the World Championships once.
Medal record
World Cup
2009 Lead
Winner 2010 Lead
Winner 2010 Combined
2011 Lead
2012 Lead
Winner 2013 Lead
Winner 2014 Lead
2015 Lead
Winner 2015 Combined
2016 Lead
World Championships
2009 Lead
2011 Lead
2012 Lead
2012 Combined
2014 Lead
World Games
2009 Kaohsiung Lead
2013 Cali Lead
Rock Master
2009 Lead
2010 Lead
2013 Lead
2013 Duel
Asian Championships
2004 Lead
2005 Lead
2006 Lead
2006 Boulder
2008 Lead
2008 Boulder
2009 Lead
2009 Boulder
2010 Lead
2010 Boulder
Updated on 8 July 2017.

Kim Ja-in (Hangul: 김자인, born 11 September 1988), more widely known as Jain Kim, is a professional climber. She is mainly active in lead climbing and bouldering competitions. She won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times (2010, 2013, 2014), the Lead Climbing World Championship once (2014), and the Rock Master once (2010, Lead discipline).

Jain Kim also successfully climbs outdoors. In 2014, she redpointed her first routes graded beyond 8b+; namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.

Biography

Jain Kim in the Bouldering World Cup, Vienna, 2010

Born into a family of mountain-dwellers and climbers,[1] Jain Kim began climbing when she was 12 years old, in 2001. When she was 15, on July 2004, she started competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and since 2006 she also participates in the Bouldering World Cup.

After a few years, her talent became evident. In 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009 and 2010 she won the Lead Climbing Asian Championship. In 2008, she also won the Bouldering Asian Championship. In 2009, she managed to rank second in the Lead Climbing World Cup,[2] second in the Lead Climbing World Championship,[3] second in the World Games (Lead), and third in the Rock Master (Lead).[4]

In 2010, she won the lead climbing competitions both in the Rock Master[5] and the World Cup.[6] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by ranking first in five out of six stages, namely those held in Xining, Chuncheon, Puurs, Huaiji, and Kranj. The only World Cup stage that Jain Kim did not win in 2010 was the first one, held in Chamonix. In 2013 and 2014 she won the Lead Climbing World Cup again, each year by getting four gold medals out of eight events.

In May and June 2014 she redpointed her first routes on rock graded beyond 8b+, namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.

On September 14, 2014, three days after turning 26, she achieved an extraordinary victory at the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she managed to ascend (on-sight) all of the routes attempted in the qualifications, semifinal, and final.

On May 20, 2017, she climbed the 555-meter Lotte World Tower in Seoul.[7]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[8]

Discipline 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Lead 25 18 28 14 18 2 1 2 2 1 1 2 3
Boulder - - 36 - 51 5 12 7 10 29 - - -
Speed - - - - - - - - - - - 30 -
Combined - - 21 - 25 2 1 2 2 4 - 1 -

Climbing World Championships

Youth[9]

Discipline 2005
Youth A
Lead 22

Adult[9]

Discipline 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016
Lead 32 8 2 2 2 1 4
Bouldering 12 45 17 11 5 - -
Speed - - - - 41 - -
Combined - - - - 1 - -

World Games

Discipline 2005 2009 2013
Lead 4 2 2

Rock Master

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Lead 3 1 - - 2
Duel - - 5 - 3

Asian Championships[9]

Discipline 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Lead 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 - 1 1 3
Boulder - - 2 1 1 2 2 - 1 - - 3 -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[9]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007 1 1
2008 0
2009 1 2 3
2010 5 5
2011 5 1 1 7
2012 3 2 1 6
2013 4 2 1 7
2014 4 2 6
2015 3 3
2016 1 4 5
2017 1 1
Total 25 11 8 44

Bouldering[9]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2009 1 1
2010 2 2
2011 1 1 2
2012 1 1
Total 1 1 4 6

Personal life

She is married to Oh Younghwan, who is a firefighter of Seoul Fire Services and writer.[10][11]

See also

References

  1. ↑ Auriana Beaute. "Jain Kim's Profile". Retrieved 5 December 2014.
  2. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (16 November 2009). "Lead World Cup 2009 to Johanna Ernst and Adam Ondra". Archived from the original on 7 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  3. ↑ Vinicio Stefanello (7 July 2009). planetmountain.com, ed. "Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN)". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  4. ↑ Vinicio Stefanello (6 September 2009). planetmountain.com, ed. "Eiter and Puigblanque are the kings of Rock Master 2009". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  5. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (19 July 2010). "Rock Master 2010". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  6. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (30 October 2010). "Jain Kim Wins the World Cup 2010". Archived from the original on 11 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  7. ↑ "S. Korean female climber reaches top of tallest building". yonhapnews.co.kr. 20 May 2017. Retrieved 20 May 2017.
  8. ↑ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  9. 1 2 3 4 5 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Kim's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  10. ↑ Choe Kwangmo's wikipedia user page about Oh Younghwan, Retrieved 15 November 2015
  11. ↑ wedding invitation sent from Oh Younghwan(GLAD Hotel, 15:00, 12 December 2015). Retrieved 15 November 2015.
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