Gasherbrum I
| Gasherbrum I | |
|---|---|
| Hidden Peak | |
 Gasherbrum I in 2001 | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation |
8,080 m (26,510 ft) [1][2] Ranked 11th |
| Prominence | 2,155 m (7,070 ft) [1] |
| Isolation | 24 kilometres (15 mi) |
| Listing |
Eight-thousander Ultra |
| Coordinates | 35°43′28″N 76°41′47″E / 35.72444°N 76.69639°ECoordinates: 35°43′28″N 76°41′47″E / 35.72444°N 76.69639°E |
| Geography | |
| Parent range | Karakoram |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent |
July 5, 1958 by an American team (First winter ascent 9 March 2012 Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb) |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
Gasherbrum I (Urdu: گاشر برم -1; simplified Chinese: 加舒尔布鲁木I峰; traditional Chinese: 加舒爾布魯木I峰; pinyin: Jiāshūěrbùlǔmù I Fēng), surveyed as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at 8,080 metres (26,510 ft) above sea level. It is located on the Pakistani–Chinese border in Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya. Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."
Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the Karakoram) by T.G. Montgomerie in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200 km away during the Great Trigonometric Survey of India. In 1892, William Martin Conway provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness.
Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958 by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man American expedition led by Nicholas B. Clinch. Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.[3]
Timeline
- 1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to 6,300 m (20,670 ft).[4]
- 1936 - A French expedition gets to 6,900 m (22,640 ft).
- 1958 - An American team makes the first ascent.[3]
- 1975 - Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler reached the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure alpine style (first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days total. One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.
- 1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians (Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Stremfelj), again on a new route.
- 1980 - A French expedition is successful with the 5th ascent and pass the south ridge for the first time.[4]
- 1981 - Japanese have the 6th successful ascent.[4]
- 1982 - G. Sturm, M. Dacher and S. Hupfauer of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Valençot is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, Sylvain Saudan from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
- 1983 - Jerzy Kukuczka with Wojciech Kurtyka, new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
- 1983 - Teams from Switzerland and Spain are successful.
- 1984 - Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander traverse Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between
- 1985 - Solo ascent by Benoît Chamoux. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.[5]
- 1997 Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
- 2003 - 19 people reach the summit, 4 deaths, including Mohammad Oraz.[6]
- 2012 - March 9, Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb made the first winter ascent. The ascent was made without the aid of supplementary oxygen.[7] The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Goschl, Swiss Cedric Hahlen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — went missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.[8]
- 2013 - 21 July, Galician Abel Alonso and Spaniards Xebi Gomez and Álvaro Paredes climb to top and died while descending after a storm.
See also
Bibliography
- Carter, H. Adams (1975). "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram". American Alpine Journal. 49: 53.
- Clinch, Nicholas B. (December 1982). A Walk in the Sky: Climbing Hidden Peak. Seattle, WA, USA: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-042-3.
- Fanshawe, Andy; Venables, Stephen (March 1996). Himalaya alpine-style: the most challenging routes on the highest peaks. Seattle, WA, USA: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-34064-931-3.
Notes and references
- 1 2 "Gasherbrum I". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-08-24.
- ↑ "Trekking Routes - Highest peaks". cknp.org. Retrieved 2014-08-24.
- 1 2 Clinch "A Walk in the Sky"
- 1 2 3 "Gasherbrum I: Some background and History". k2news.com. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
- ↑ Fanshawe & Venables "Himalaya alpine-style"
- ↑ "Everest Summiter Mohammad Oraz death/Iranian expedition". k2news.com. September 2003. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
- ↑ "Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015". Polishwinterhimalaism.pl. March 9, 2012. Retrieved 2012-08-17.
- ↑ "Three missing mountaineers feared dead, rescue mission called off". dawn.com. March 15, 2012. Retrieved 2012-03-15.
External links
- Gasherbrum I on Summitpost
- Gasherbrum I on Himalaya-Info.org (German)
- Gasherbrum I on Peakware
- Summit Video of Alex Gavan's First Romanian Ascent of Gasherbrum 1 (July 30th 2007)