Eight-thousander

Flight over Khumbu-region; six eight-thousanders and some seven-thousanders (three identified) are visible
Graph of the 30 highest peaks with more than 500 m prominence

The eight-thousanders are the 14 independent[1] mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia. Their summits are in the death zone.

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt was unsuccessful when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.[2]

The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.[3]

The first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian Reinhold Messner, who completed this feat on 16 October 1986. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat. Kukuczka is also the man who established the most (9) new routes on the main eight-thousanders. Messner summitted each of the 14 peaks without the aid of supplemental oxygen. This feat was not repeated until nine years later by the Swiss Erhard Loretan in 1995. Phurba Tashi of Nepal has completed the most climbs of the eight-thousanders, with 30 ascents between 1998 and 2011.[4] Juanito Oiarzabal has completed the second most, with a total of 25 ascents between 1985 and 2011.[5] The Italian Simone Moro is the only mountaineer to have made the first winter ascent of four of the eight-thousanders, Jerzy Kukuczka made four winter ascents as well, but one of them was a repetition (K2 has never been summited in the winter).[6]

The first woman who summited all 14 eight-thousanders with no disputed climbing was the Spanish Edurne Pasaban, in 2010.[7] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[8][9]

The first couple and team who summited all 14 eight-thousanders together were the Italians Nives Meroi (second woman without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet in 2017. They climbed in alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen.[10]

The country with the highest number of climbers that have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders is Italy with seven climbers, followed by Spain with six climbers and South Korea with five climbers. Kazakhstan and Poland have three climbers each that completed the "Crown of the Himalaya".

List of eight-thousanders

Peak Height[11] Location[11] First ascent[11] First summiter(s)[11] First ascent in winter First summiter(s) in winter Ascents[12] Deaths[12] Death rate[12] Death rate before 1990[13] (graph) Death rate 1990–2003[13] (graph, change)
Everest 8848 m
29,029 ft
Nepal Nepal
China China
29 May 1953 New Zealand Edmund Hillary
Nepal Tenzing Norgay
17 Feb 1980
Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Leszek Cichy
5656 2234.0%37%4.4%
K2 8611 m
28,251 ft
Pakistan Pakistan
China China[14][15][16][17][18][19]
31 Jul 1954 Italy Achille Compagnoni
Italy Lino Lacedelli
3068129.5%41%19.7%
Kangchenjunga 8586 m
28,169 ft
Nepal Nepal
India India[20]
25 May 1955 United Kingdom George Band
United Kingdom Joe Brown
11 Jan 1986 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
2834014.5%21%22.0%
Lhotse 8516 m
27,940 ft
Nepal Nepal
China China
18 May 1956 Switzerland Fritz Luchsinger
Switzerland Ernst Reiss
31 Dec 1988 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki 461132.8%14%2.0%
Makalu 8485 m
27,838 ft
Nepal Nepal
China China
15 May 1955 France Jean Couzy
France Lionel Terray
9 Feb 2009 Italy Simone Moro
Kazakhstan Denis Urubko
361318.9%16%8.5%
Cho Oyu 8201 m
26,906 ft
Nepal Nepal
China China
19 Oct 1954 Austria Joseph Joechler
Nepal Pasang Dawa Lama
Austria Herbert Tichy
12 Feb 1985 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Maciej Pawlikowski
3138441.4%
Dhaulagiri I 8167 m
26,795 ft
Nepal Nepal 13 May 1960 Austria Kurt Diemberger
Germany Peter Diener
Nepal Nawang Dorje
Nepal Nima Dorje
Switzerland Ernst Forrer
Austria Albin Schelbert
21 Jan 1985 Poland Andrzej Czok
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
4486915.7%31%11.0%
Manaslu 8163 m
26,781 ft
Nepal Nepal 9 May 1956 Japan Toshio Imanishi
Nepal Gyalzen Norbu
12 Jan 1984 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Ryszard Gajewski
661659.9%35%13.4%
Nanga Parbat 8126 m
26,660 ft
Pakistan Pakistan 3 Jul 1953 Austria Hermann Buhl 26 Feb 2016 Italy Simone Moro
Pakistan Muhammad Ali Sadpara
Spain Alex Txikon
3356820.7%77%5.5%
Annapurna I 8091 m
26,545 ft
Nepal Nepal 3 Jun 1950 France Maurice Herzog
France Louis Lachenal
3 Feb 1987 Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
Poland Artur Hajzer
1916133.5%66%19.7%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)
8080 m
26,444 ft
Pakistan Pakistan
China China
5 Jul 1958 United States Andrew Kauffman
United States Pete Schoening
9 Mar 2012 Poland Adam Bielecki
Poland Janusz Gołąb
334298.9%16%8.8%
Broad Peak 8051 m
26,414 ft
Pakistan Pakistan
China China
9 Jun 1957 Austria Fritz Wintersteller
Austria Marcus Schmuck
Austria Kurt Diemberger
Austria Hermann Buhl
5 Mar 2013 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Adam Bielecki
Poland Tomasz Kowalski
Poland Artur Małek
404215.3%5%8.6%
Gasherbrum II 8035 m
26,362 ft
Pakistan Pakistan
China China
7 Jul 1956 Austria Fritz Moravec
Austria Josef Larch
Austria Hans Willenpart
2 Feb 2011 Italy Simone Moro
Kazakhstan Denis Urubko
United States Cory Richards
930212.3%8%0.4%
Shishapangma 8027 m
26,335 ft
China China 2 May 1964 China Hsu Ching
China Chang Chun-yen
China Wang Fuzhou
China Chen San
China Cheng Tien-liang
China Wu Tsung-yue
China Sodnam Doji
China Migmar Trashi
China Doji
China Yonten
14 Jan 2005 Poland Piotr Morawski
Italy Simone Moro
302258.4%2%16.8%

Climbers with verified ascents of all 14 eight-thousanders

Field O2 lists people who have climbed all 14 without bottled oxygen.

Order
accomplished

[21]

All without
O2 (order)
Name Period Born Age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970–1986 1944 42 Italy Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979–1987 (deceased) 1948 39 Poland Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982–1995 (deceased) 1959 36 Switzerland Swiss
4 [22] Carlos Carsolio 1985–1996 1962 33 Mexico Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980–1996 1950 46 Poland Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985–1999 1956 43 Spain Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983–2000 1949 51 Italy Italian
8 Young-Seok Park 1993–2001 (deceased)[23] 1963 38 South Korea Korean
9 Hong-Gil Um 1988–2001 1960[24] 40 South Korea Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991-2002[25] 1968 33 Spain Spanish
11 Wang-Yong Han 1994–2003 1966 37 South Korea Korean
12 5[26] Ed Viesturs 1989–2005 1959 46 United States American
13 6[27][28][29] Silvio Mondinelli 1993–2007 1958 49 Italy Italian
14 7[30] Ivan Vallejo 1997–2008 1959 49 Ecuador Ecuadorian
15 8[31] Denis Urubko 2000–2009 1973 35 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990–2009 1961[32] 47 Germany German
17 9 Veikka Gustafsson 1993–2009 1968 41 Finland Finnish
18[33] Andrew Lock 1993–2009 1961[34] 48 Australia Australian
19 10 João Garcia 1993–2010 1967 43 Portugal Portuguese
20[35] Piotr Pustelnik 1990–2010 1951 58 Poland Polish
21[36] Edurne Pasaban 2001–2010 1973 36 Spain Spanish
22[37] Abele Blanc 1992–2011[38][39] 1954 56 Italy Italian
23 Mingma Sherpa 2000–2011[38] 1978 33 Nepal Nepali
24 11 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner 1998–2011[38] 1970 40 Austria Austrian
25 Vassily Pivtsov 2001–2011[38] 1975 36 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
26 12 Maxut Zhumayev 2001–2011[38] 1977 34 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
27 Jae-Soo Kim 2000–2011[38] 1961 50 South Korea Korean
28[40] 13 Mario Panzeri 1988–2012 1964 48 Italy Italian
29[41] Hirotaka Takeuchi 1995–2012[41] 1971 41 Japan Japanese
30 Chhang Dawa Sherpa 2001–2013[38] 1982 30 Nepal Nepali
31 14 Kim Chang-Ho 2005–2013[38] 1970 43 South Korea Korean
32 Jorge Egocheaga 2002–2014[42] 1968 45 Spain Spanish
33 15 Radek Jaroš 1998–2014[38] 1964 50 Czech Republic Czech
34/35[43] 16/17[43] Nives Meroi 1998-2017[44][45] 1961 55 Italy Italian
34/35[43] 16/17[43] Romano Benet 1998-2017[44][45][46] 1962 55 Italy Italian
Slovenia Slovenian
36 18 Peter Hámor 1998-2017[47] 1964 52 Slovakia Slovak
37 19 Azim Gheychisaz 2008-2017[48] 1981 37 Iran Iranian
38 Ferran Latorre 1999-2017[49] 1970 46 Spain Spanish
39 20 Òscar Cadiach 1984-2017[50] 1952 64 Spain Spanish

Disputed

Claims in which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascents of all 14 peaks. The disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses.

Name Period Born Age Nationality
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997)[51] 1983–1998 1952 46 Italy Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[52][53] 1987–2005 1954 53 United Kingdom British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma 2000, Broad Peak 1995[54][55])[56][57] 1993–2004 (deceased) 1953 49 Ukraine Ukrainian
Eun-Sun Oh (Kangchenjunga 2009)[58][59][60][61] 1997–2010 1966 44 South Korea Korean
Carlos Pauner (Shishapangma 2012)[62] 2001–2013 1963 50 Spain Spanish
Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits.

See also

References

  1. In making any "highest mountains" list, one needs to use a criterion to exclude subpeaks and only list independent mountains. There is no universally agreed-upon such criterion. However the (generally accepted) list of 14 eight-thousanders is obtained if one uses a topographic prominence cutoff of between 200 and 500 metres (610 and 1524 feet). Some eight-thousand metre subpeaks have been climbed as goals in themselves, for example Lhotse Middle, but this is quite rare.
  2. "Fast Facts About Nanga Parbat". climbing.about.com. Retrieved 2015-05-29.
  3. Herzog, Maurice (1951). Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak. Translated from the French by Nea Morin and Janet Adam Smith. New York: E.P Dutton & Co. p. 257.
  4. "Preliminary stats: Himalaya and Everest 2011 spring review". ExplorersWeb. June 8, 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-04. (Subscription required (help)).
  5. "Lhotse Summits". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
  6. Planetmountain.com, Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, 26 February 2016
  7. "Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne". ExplorersWeb. December 10, 2010. Retrieved 2014-01-04. (Subscription required (help)).
  8. "Austrian woman claims Himalayas climbing record". BBC News. 23 August 2011. Retrieved 2011-08-24.
  9. "Austrian is first woman to scale 14 peaks without oxygen". AsiaOne. August 30, 2011. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
  10. http://www.repubblica.it/sport/vari/2017/05/11/news/nives_meroi_romano_benet_prima_coppia_su_tutti_ottomila-165156761/
  11. 1 2 3 4
    "General Info". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  12. 1 2 3 "Stairway to heaven". The Economist. 29 May 2013. Retrieved 2015-09-07As of March 2012
  13. 1 2 Chinese National Geography, August 2006, page 77.
  14. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-28500721 K2 lies in Pakistan, near the northern border with China.
  15. Pakistan-China border agreement
  16. K2, China/Pakistan
  17. K2: Some background and History
  18. Encyclopædia Britannica
  19. K2
  20. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2000/jul/13/lukeharding
  21. "Climbers - First 14". 8000ers.com. 2012-05-26. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  22. Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
  23. Coley, Mariah. "Koreans Missing on Annapurna Presumed Dead". Alpinist.com. Retrieved 9 November 2011.
  24. EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44). "Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
  25. Kukuxumusu, Spanish News. "Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters"". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
  26. "Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner". Mounteverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30. ...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen.
  27. Mounteverest.net. "The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse". Retrieved 2008-11-30. Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers - becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen.
  28. "The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2008-11-30. 13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen.
  29. "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30. Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
  30. "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30. ...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
  31. "Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2009-05-18.
  32. "Ralf Dujmovits". Ralf-dujmovits.de. Retrieved 2010-04-14.
  33. "Summit 8000 - Andrew Lock's quest to climb all fourteen of the highest mountains in the world". Andrew-lock.com. Retrieved 2010-04-14.
  34. "Australia's Most Accomplished Mountaineer". Andrew Lock. 2009-10-02. Retrieved 2010-04-14.
  35. "Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna - bags the 14x8000ers!". Explorersweb.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  36. "Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits - completes the 14x800ers". Explorersweb.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  37. "Abele Blanc summits Annapurna and all 8000ers". Planetmountain.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  38. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "Climbers - First 14, updated table on 8000ers.com". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  39. "Everest - Mount Everest by climbers, news". Mounteverest.net. 2005-05-18. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
  40. "Mario Panzeri: sono in cima! E finalmente sono 14 ottomila". Montagna.tv. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  41. 1 2 "日本人初の快挙、8000m峰14座登頂 竹内洋岳". Nikkei.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  42. "Climbers - First 14". 8000ers.com. 2014-08-13. Retrieved 2014-08-13.
  43. 1 2 3 4 Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position
  44. 1 2 "Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000er". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2017-05-11.
  45. 1 2 "Nives Meroi in Roman Benet preplezala 14 osemtisočakov". Sta.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved 2017-05-11.
  46. "Slovenec s 15. osemtisočaka". Delo.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved 2017-05-11.
  47. "Pokoril všetky osemtisícovky". skrsi.rtvs.sk. 2017-05-16. Retrieved 2017-05-17.
  48. "قیچی‌ساز حماسه ساز شد/کوهنورد تبریزی به هشت هزاری‌ها پیوست". yjc. 2017-05-19. Retrieved 2017-05-19.
  49. "Ferran Latorre completa los catorce ochomiles en el Everest" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 2017-05-27. Retrieved 2017-05-27.
  50. "Cadiach, camino del campo 3 tras coronar el Broad Peak" (in Spanish). La Vanguardia. 2017-07-27. Retrieved 2017-07-27.
  51. "Fausto de Stefani back for Lhotse – changes ahead on the 14x8,000ers summiteers’ list?". MountEverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
  52. AdventureStats.net, Official records. "Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
  53. MountEverest.net, News, under heading No Proof: Alan himself said later that he continued alone for one hour into the fog to find the true summit. He said that he "has no proof to have not been to the summit" and so he counts it a done deal. The statistician's didn't buy it, and Alan was deleted on all of the Cho Oyu lists.. "Alan Hinkes Kangchenjunga - 13 or 14?". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
  54. "Vladislav Terz". www.russianclimb.com. Retrieved 2016-04-28.
  55. "AdventureStats - by Explorersweb". www.adventurestats.com. Retrieved 2016-04-28.
  56. Russianclimb.com, Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS. "Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents". Retrieved 2009-10-06.
  57. "Sad results on Makalu and Unanswered Questions: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu". Everestnews2004.com. Archived from the original on 2012-05-12. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  58. "AFP: Winds delay S. Korean climber's record attempt". Google.com. 2010-04-24. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
  59. "Everest K2 News ExplorersWeb - More dark clouds mounting on Anna summit push; Miss Oh's Kanchen summit "disputed" after renewed accusations". Explorersweb.com. 2010-04-26. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
  60. "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record". BBC News. 2010-08-27.
  61. "Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 2010" (PDF). Himalayandatabase.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
  62. "Desnivel; Carlos Pauner consigue la cima del Everest". Desnivel.com. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
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