Christian Core
 Christian Core on Gioia (8C+), Varazze | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | Italy | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born |
October 5, 1974 Savona, Italy | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 177 cm (5 ft 10 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 61 kg (134 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Bouldering | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | First person to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 3 august 2017. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Christian Core (born October 5, 1974) is an Italian professional sport climber and rock climber. He is known for being the first person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, in 2008. He won the Bouldering World Cup twice, in 1999 and 2002 and a Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
Biography
In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.[1] He immediately won the Cup.
In 2002, he did it again.[2]
In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in Bouldering.[3]
He ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze and Triora. In 2008, he climbed Gioia, an 8C+ (V16) boulder that was considered, for 8 years, the most difficult boulder ever climbed in history (see Notable first ascents). Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade three years later.
In 2009 he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[4]
| 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | 11 | 9 | 17 |
| 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 1 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 8 | 16 | 4 | 4 | 13 | 16 | 54 | 26 | 54 | 32 |
Climbing World Championships[5]
| 1997 | 1999 | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 7 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 1 | 18 | 10 | 10 | 33 |
Climbing Eurpoean Championships[5]
| 1998 | 2000 | 2002 | 2004 | 2007 | 2008 | 2010 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 1 | - | 16 | 10 | 7 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Bouldering[5]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2000 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2001 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2002 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2003 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2004 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2005 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2006 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 3 | 6 | 4 | 13 |
Rock climbing
Routes
Core redpointed 8c (5.14b) and onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes.
Boulders
Core redpointed 8C+ (V16) and flashed 8A (V11) boulders.
8C+/V16:
8C/V15:
- Kimera - Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, ITA) - 2006 - First ascent[9]
8B+/V14:
- Toky - Val Ellero (ITA) - 2009 - First ascent[10]
- New Base Line - Magic Wood (CHE) - 2006[11]
- Beautiful mind - Albarracin (ESP) - 2006 - First ascent[12]
- Ajna - Varazze (ITA) - 2004 - First ascent[13]
- Toguro - Varazze (ITA) - 2003 - First ascent[14]
- Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - 2003 - Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole)[15]
- Taklimakam plus - Varazze (ITA) - 2002 - First ascent[16]
- Shadowfax - Chironico (CHE) - 2002 - Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)[17]
Film
References
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (September 1, 1999). "A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (October 23, 2002). "A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (July 11, 2003). "Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- 1 2 3 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Core's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (February 25, 2008). "La Gioia di Christian Core". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 6, 2011). "Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (February 22, 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze". Retrieved September 23, 2014.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (September 6, 2006). "Una Kimera per Christian Core". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (October 31, 2009). "Christian Core apre Toky". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (December 14, 2006). "New Base Line per Christian Core". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (March 2, 2006). "Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (June 1, 2004). "Christian Core risolve Ajna". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (May 10, 2003). "'Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (February 14, 2003). "Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (November 7, 2002). "Taklimakam si allunga". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ infoboulder.com, ed. (September 19, 2002). "Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (October 16, 2012). "i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV". Retrieved July 29, 2013.
- ↑ I Core: My Climbing Family on IMDb
Bibliografia
- Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core (2000). Pareti e Montagne edizioni, ed. Train!.