IFSC Climbing World Championships

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing.

The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

History

In 1991, the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) organized the first climbing championships with only two disciplines: lead and speed. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competitions.[1]

A new discipline was introduced in the 2001 world championship: bouldering. In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern Competition Climbing.

In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years with a double interest: avoiding interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and giving a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games.

Championships

Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
number lead speed boulder overall para
1 1991 Germany Frankfurt 2 October 2 110 22 [2]
2 1993 Austria Innsbruck 30 April 2 127 23 [3]
3 1995 Switzerland Geneva 6 May 2 135 24 [4]
4 1997 France Paris 1 February 2 153 26 [5]
5 1999 United Kingdom Birmingham 3 December 2 180 30 [6]
6 2001 Switzerland Winterthur 5-8 September 3 198 25 [7]
7 2003 France Chamonix 9-13 July 3 241 34 [8]
8 2005 Germany Munich 1-5 July 3 318 51 [9]
9 2007 Spain Avilés 17–23 September 3 302 50 [10]
10 2009 China Xining 30 June-5 July 4 219 44 [11]
11 2011 Italy Arco 15–24 July 4 374 56 [12]
12 2012 France Paris 12–16 September 5 331 56 [13]
13 2014 Germany Munich 21-23 August 1 509 52 [14]
13 Spain Gijón 8–14 September 4
14 2016 France Paris 14–18 September 5 533 53 [15]
15 2018 Austria Innsbruck 5 [15]

Medal Table

As 2016 [16]

 Rank  Nation Gold Silver Bronze Total
1 Russia16122048
2 France12131439
3 Ukraine107421
4 Austria84618
5 Czech Republic57416
6 Spain4408
7 China4116
8  Switzerland3159
9 Canada3104
10 Italy3014
11 United States26210
12 Belgium2608
13 South Korea2305
14 Slovenia2248
15 Poland14712
16 Japan14510
17 Germany1351
18 Kazakhstan0123
19 Iran0112
20 Venezuela0101
21 United Kingdom0011
21 Netherlands0011
Total 80 80 80 240

Men's Results

Lead

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 France François Legrand Japan Yuji Hirayama Germany Guido Köstermeyer
1993 France François Legrand Germany Stefan Glowacz Japan Yuji Hirayama
1995 France François Legrand France Arnaud Petit Switzerland Elie Chevieux
1997 France François Petit United States Chris Sharma France François Legrand
1999 Italy Bernardino Lagni Japan Yuji Hirayama Ukraine Maksym Petrenko
2001 France Gérome Pouvreau Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek France François Petit
2003 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza France David Caude
2005 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza France Alexandre Chabot
2007 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Switzerland Cédric Lachat
Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
Netherlands Jorg Verhoeven
2009 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Czech Republic Adam Ondra Austria David Lama
2011 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Jakob Schubert Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2012 Austria Jakob Schubert Canada Sean McColl Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2014 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Japan Sachi Amma
2016 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Austria Jakob Schubert France Gautier Supper

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 Italy Mauro Calibani France Frédéric Tuscan Italy Christian Core
2003 Italy Christian Core France Jérôme Meyer Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Russia Salavat Rakhmetov Austria Kilian Fischhuber France Gérome Pouvreau
2007 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov Czech Republic Martin Stranik Switzerland Cédric Lachat
2009 Russia Alexey Rubtsov Russia Rustam Gelmanov United Kingdom David Barrans
2011 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov Czech Republic Adam Ondra Russia Rustam Gelmanov
2012 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov Austria Kilian Fischhuber Russia Rustam Gelmanov
2014 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Jernej Kruder Germany Jan Hojer
2016 Japan Tomoa Narasaki Czech Republic Adam Ondra France Manuel Cornu

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 United States Hans Florine France Jacky Godoffe Kazakhstan Kairat Rakhmetov
1993 Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev Ukraine Serik Kazbekov Ukraine Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1995 Ukraine Andrey Vedenmeer Czech Republic Milan Benian Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev
1997 Spain Daniel Andrada Ukraine Yevgen Kryvosheytsev Russia Dmitri Bytchkov
1999 Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev Russia Alexei Gadeev
2001 Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Poland Tomasz Oleksy Russia Alexander Peshekhonov
2005 Russia Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Russia Sergei Sinitcyn
2007 China Zhong Qixin Venezuela Manuel Escobar Russia Sergei Sinitcyn
2009 China Zhong Qixin Kazakhstan Alexandr Nigmatulin Russia Ivan Novikov
2011 China Zhong Qixin Russia Stanislav Kokorin Ukraine Danylo Boldyrev
2012 China Zhong Qixin Czech Republic Libor Hroza Russia Dmitrii Timofeev
2014 Ukraine Danylo Boldyrev Russia Stanislav Kokorin Iran Reza Alipour
2016 Poland Marcin Dzieński Iran Reza Alipour Russia Aleksandr Shikov

Overall

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012 Canada Sean McColl Germany Thomas Tauporn Switzerland Cédric Lachat
2014 Canada Sean McColl Germany Jan Hojer France Levier Alban
2016 Canada Sean McColl France Manuel Cornu Germany David Firnenburg

Women's Results

Lead

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Switzerland Susi Good France Isabelle Patissier United States Robyn Erbesfield
1993 Switzerland Susi Good United States Robyn Erbesfield France Isabelle Patissier
1995 United States Robyn Erbesfield France Laurence Guyon France Liv Sansoz
1997 France Liv Sansoz Belgium Muriel Sarkany Germany Marietta Uhden
1999 France Liv Sansoz Belgium Muriel Sarkany United States Elena Ovtchinnikova
2001 Slovenia Martina Cufar Belgium Muriel Sarkany France Chloé Minoret
2003 Belgium Muriel Sarkany France Emilie Pouget France Sandrine Levet
2005 Austria Angela Eiter United States Emily Harrington Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2007 Austria Angela Eiter Belgium Muriel Sarkany Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2009 Austria Johanna Ernst South Korea Kim Ja-in Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2011 Austria Angela Eiter South Korea Kim Ja-in Austria Magdalena Röck
2012 Austria Angela Eiter South Korea Kim Ja-in Austria Johanna Ernst
2014 South Korea Kim Ja-in Slovenia Mina Markovič Austria Magdalena Röck
2016 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Belgium Anak Verhoeven Slovenia Mina Markovič

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 France Myriam Motteau France Sandrine Levet Ukraine Nataliya Perlova
2003 France Sandrine Levet Ukraine Nataliya Perlova France Fanny Rogeaux
2005 Ukraine Olga Shalagina Russia Yulia Abramchuk Czech Republic Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova
2007 Austria Anna Stöhr Japan Akiyo Noguchi Russia Olga Bibik
2009 Russia Yulia Abramchuk Ukraine Olga Shalagina Austria Anna Stöhr
2011 Austria Anna Stöhr United States Sasha DiGiulian Germany Juliane Wurm
2012 France Mélanie Sandoz Russia Olga Iakovleva Austria Anna Stöhr
2014 Germany Juliane Wurm United States Alex Puccio Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Switzerland Petra Klingler Japan Miho Nonaka Japan Akiyo Noguchi

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Belgium Isabelle Dorsimond France Agnès Brard Russia Venera Chereshneva
1993 Russia Olga Bibik Belgium Isabelle Dorsimond Poland Renata Piszczek
1995 France Natalie Richer France Cecile Avezou Poland Renata Piszczek
1997 Russia Tatiana Ruyga Russia Irina Zaytseva Russia Olga Bibik
1999 Ukraine Olga Zakharova Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Natalia Novikova
2001 Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Mayya Piratinskaya Russia Svetlana Sutkina
2003 Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Tatiana Ruyga Russia Valentina Yurina
2005 Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Valentina Yurina Poland Edyta Ropek
2007 Russia Tatiana Ruyga Poland Edyta Ropek Russia Valentina Yurina
2009 China Cuilian He China Cuifang He China Chunhua Li
2011 Russia Mariia Krasavina Russia Anna Tsyganova Kazakhstan Tamara Kuznetsova
2012 Russia Yuliya Levochkina Russia Iuliia Kaplina Russia Natalia Titova
2014 Russia Alina Gaidamakina Poland Klaudia Buczek Poland Aleksandra Rudzinska
2016 Russia Anna Tsyganova France Anouk Jaubert Russia Iuliia Kaplina

Overall

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012 South Korea Kim Ja-in France Cecile Avezou Switzerland Petra Klingler
2014 France Charlotte Durif Switzerland Petra Klingler Slovenia Mina Markovič
2016 Russia Elena Krasovskaia United States Claire Buhrfeind France Charlotte Durif

See also

References

  1. "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
  2. "UIAA World Championship - Frankfurt 1991". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  3. "UIAA World Championship - Innsbruck 1993". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  4. "UIAA World Championship - Genève 1995". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  5. "UIAA World Championship - Paris 1997". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  6. "UIAA World Championship - Birmingham (GBR) 1999". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  7. "UIAA World Championship - Winterthur (SUI) 2001". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  8. "UIAA Worldchampionship - Chamonix (FRA) 2003". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  9. "UIAA World Championship - Munich (GER) 2005". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  10. "IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) - Aviles (ESP) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  11. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN) 2009". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  12. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  13. "IFSC Climbing World Championship - Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  14. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/world-championships
  15. 1 2 "Next IFSC World Championships Announcement". Retrieved 5 March 2014.
  16. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Championnats_du_monde_d%27escalade
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