Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Personal information
Nationality	Iranian
Born	(1981-05-27) May 27, 1981 Tehran, Iran
Occupation	Rock climber, Climbing coach and Route setter
Height	175 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight	62 kg (137 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Sport climbing
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8b+ (5.14a) On-sight: 8a (5.13b) Bouldering: 7C+ (V10)
Medal record National Championships 2006 Lead 2002 Lead Groups Cup 2000 National Competition Fajr Championships 2006 National Competition 2002 International Competition 1998 National Competition Tehran Province Championships 2001 Lead 2002 Lead 2003 Lead 2004 Lead 2006 Lead 2007 Lead 2008 Lead 2009 Lead 2005 Lead 2010 Lead 2012 Lead 2013 Lead 2013 Bouldering 2014 Lead Tehran Province League 2010 Lead 2011 Lead
Updated on 11 Dec 2014.

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه ‎‎, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has been climbing for 19 years.^[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.

Biography

Yeganeh started climbing at age 12 (1993). He lived in the mountains that surround Tehran and he would accompany his father and his friends on climbs. The first time he went to Band-e Yakhchal to mountain climb, he climbed a 5.10c route on-sight on Chakme. His interest in the sport, advice available to him and his abilities enabled him to successfully pass many climbing courses. This experience and judgment was a key factor to be a good teacher and coach in climbing. His competition performance resulted in him being awarded many medals in this sport.

Yeganeh was elected as one of the five member among sport climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league’s statute. ^[5][6][7] Then, He participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club’s representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.^[8][9] As he truly is well known for Lead climbing, he also Solo climbed 2 routes.^[10] Currently, Artimes and another person (Amin Abbasi) are the only Iranian official route setters.^[11]

Positions

Here are some positions he was in charge:

• 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
• 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
• 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
• 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team

and also:

• Tehran League – Founding Member-2009

Coaching

Coaching Certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
• Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1

Coaching Experiences

Route Setting ^[11]

Route Setting Certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
• AFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter

Route Setting Experiences

• Chief Route Setter ^[5]
• 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
• 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship,
• 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
• 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
• 2011 – Route Setter–Master Cup international Competition
• 2012 – Route Setter–Asian Championships
• 2015 – Route Setter – Asian Youth Championship
• 2014 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship

Judging

Judging Certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge

National Team Membership^{[1][2][3][4][8][9][12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19]}

• Junior National Team
  • 1999
• National Team
  • 2003
  • 2004 – China, Asian Championship
  • 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
  • 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
  • 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
  • 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup

Ranks and Medals

IFSC Climbing Worldcup^{[1][2][3][4][8][9][14][17][20][21][22]}

UIAA Asian Championships^{[1][2][3][12][13][15][16][23]}

Fajr Championships ^[24]

National Championships

Tehran Province Championships ^[5]

Tehran Province League ^[25]

Groups Cup

Solo

• Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, First assent
• Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, First assent

Onsight

Here are some of his first ascent climbs:

Roc Trips^[26]

• Petzl 2008
• Petzl 2009
• Petzl 2014

Filmography

• Mashalla ^[10]

Route

Here are some of the routes he Bolted:

References