Organic wine

Organic wine

Organic wine is wine made from grapes grown in accordance with principles of organic farming, which typically excludes the use of artificial chemical fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides.

The consumption of organic wine grew at a rate of 3.7 percent over the year ending September 19, 2009,^[1] out-pacing growth in the consumption of non-organic wine which grew 2%^[2] during a similar period. There are an estimated 1500-2000 organic wine producers globally,^[3] including negociant labels, with more than 885 of these organic domaines in France alone.^[4]

The legal definition of organic wine varies from country to country. The primary difference in the way that organic wine is defined relates to the use (or non use) of preservatives during the wine-making process.

Production and preservatives

Wine production comprises two main phases - that which takes place in the vineyard (i.e. grape growing) and that which takes place in the winery (i.e. fermentation of the grapes into wine, bottling etc.). The baseline definition of organic wine as "wine made with grapes farmed organically", deals only with the first phase (grape growing). There are numerous potential inputs which can be made during the second phase of production in order to ferment and preserve the wine. The most universal wine preservative is sulphur dioxide. The issue of wine preservation is central to the discussion of how organic wine is defined.

Wine matures over time, and it is widely considered that certain types of wines improve with aging, as the flavors become more integrated and balanced. As a result, the greatest percentage of wines are produced in a way that allows them to last, sometimes as long as decades. The use of added sulfites is debated heavily within the organic winemaking community. Many vintners favor their use in small quantities for stabilization of wine, while others frown on them. Currently the only effective preservatives that allow wines to last for a long period are 'non-organic'. While there are a growing number of producers making wine without added preservatives, it is generally acknowledged that these wines are for consumption within a few years of bottling.

The various legal definitions of organic wine serve to address this challenge regarding the use of preservatives. In some parts of the world, namely Europe, wine cannot legally be labelled as 'Organic Wine'. Wines that have added sulfites, but are otherwise organic, are labeled "wine made from organic grapes.".^[5] In the United States, wines certified "organic" under the National Organic Program cannot contain added sulfites.

Organic vs. conventional wine growing

In conventional agriculture, chemical fertilizers are used to promote larger yields and protect against disease. These same chemicals are absorbed through the roots into the vine's sap and are then passed through leaves, and stems into the fruit. As a result, residues of these chemicals find their way into the finished wine. In addition to the effects of direct consumption, conventional 'chemical based' farming has a significant impact on soil and water quality. Wine growers farming with chemicals have to wear 'hazmat' style clothing and breathing apparatus to protect themselves while crop spraying.

Proponents of organically grown wine believe that chemical farming destroys the uniqueness of the land, and the unique flavor that this 'terroir' imparts to the wine.

In the USA, strict rules govern the organic winemaking process at all stages of production including harvesting, the types of yeast that can be used during fermentation as well as storage conditions. These rules are applied for all imported and domestic wines that acquire USDA certification. In the USA, the total sulfite level must be less than 20 parts per million in order to receive organic certification.^[6]

Organic certification

Organic certification of wine is complex; different nations have different certification criteria.^[7] In the United States, the National Organic Program, run by the United States Department of Agriculture, sets standards for certification of organic foods, including organic wines.^[8]

Some wineries that are technically organic choose not to be certified for various reasons.

Natural wine

Natural winemaking is a style of winemaking that can be applied to any wine. It is loosely defined as using native yeasts in the fermentation process and minimal or no sulfur dioxide in the winemaking process. It may also mean unfined and unfiltered as well. Natural winemaking is not governed by laws (at least not in the U.S.) and has no inspection or verification process (unless it is a biodynamic wine). Estimates are that less than 10 percent of the organically grown wine in the United States is made in a natural winemaking style, most of which is certified biodynamic wine.

Natural winemakers may or may not use organic or biodynamic grapes in their wines. Using native yeasts and relying on minimal manipulation often means that wines have a more unique profile from year to year. Different vintages vary more than conventionally made wine because of the non-interventionist approach. This is a key part of the natural wine aesthetic which emphasizes the least amount of intervention to bring the true flavor of each vintage to the glass.

The natural wine movement has grown in popularity in response to what some observers have called "Parkerization" or the globalization of wine tasting. A small number of critics' palates and the points system has come to define the market value of wines. The effect of this on wine producers has been to try to manipulate the taste of their wine (for example trying to increase the intensity of fruit and oak) in order to please certain wine critics and get higher ratings.^[9] As a result, critics of these critics say this is causing an increasing uniformity amongst wines and a loss of regional and varietal character. The natural wine movement is one response to the global commodification of winemaking.

Sustainable wines

Some farmers take additional steps beyond standard organic winemaking to apply sustainable farming practices. Examples include the use of composting and the cultivation of plants that attract insects that are beneficial to the health of the vines. Sustainable practices in these vineyards also extend to actions that have seemingly little or nothing to do with the production of grapes such as providing areas for wildlife to prevent animals from eating the grapes and allowing weeds and wildflowers to grow between the vines. Sustainable farmers may use bio-diesel for tractors in the vineyards to reduce emissions among the vines, or plough with horses.

Sustainable wine making is a systems perspective of integration of the natural and human resources, involving environmental health, economic profitability, and social and economic equity. It requires small, realistic, and measurable steps as defined in the Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices Workbook published by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA)^[10]

See also

• Organic movement

References