Mulch

A mulch is a layer of material applied to the surface of an area of soil. Its purpose is any or all of the following:

A mulch is usually but not exclusively organic in nature. It may be permanent (e.g. plastic sheeting) or temporary (e.g. bark chips). It may be applied to bare soil, or around existing plants. Mulches of manure or compost will be incorporated naturally into the soil by the activity of worms and other organisms. The process is used both in commercial crop production and in gardening, and when applied correctly can dramatically improve soil productivity.[1]

Uses

Many materials are used as mulches, which are used to retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, suppress weed growth, and for aesthetics.[2] They are applied to the soil surface,[3] around trees, paths, flower beds, to prevent soil erosion on slopes, and in production areas for flower and vegetable crops. Mulch layers are normally two inches or more deep when applied.[4][5]

They are applied at various times of the year depending on the purpose. Towards the beginning of the growing season mulches serve initially to warm the soil by helping it retain heat which is lost during the night. This allows early seeding and transplanting of certain crops, and encourages faster growth. As the season progresses, mulch stabilizes the soil temperature and moisture, and prevents the growing of weeds from seeds.[6] In temperate climates, the effect of mulch is dependent upon the time of year they are applied and when applied in fall and winter, are used to delay the growth of perennial plants in the spring or prevent growth in winter during warm spells, which limits freeze thaw damage.[7]

The effect of mulch upon soil moisture content is complex. Mulch forms a layer between the soil and the atmosphere which prevents sunlight from reaching the soil surface, thus reducing evaporation. However, mulch can also prevent water from reaching the soil by absorbing or blocking water from light rains.

In order to maximise the benefits of mulch, while minimizing its negative influences, it is often applied in late spring/early summer when soil temperatures have risen sufficiently, but soil moisture content is still relatively high.[8] However, permanent mulch is also widely used and valued for its simplicity, as popularized by author Ruth Stout, who said, "My way is simply to keep a thick mulch of any vegetable matter that rots on both sides of my vegetable and flower garden all year long. As it decays and enriches the soils, I add more."[9]

Plastic mulch used in large-scale commercial production is laid down with a tractor-drawn or standalone layer of plastic mulch. This is usually part of a sophisticated mechanical process, where raised beds are formed, plastic is rolled out on top, and seedlings are transplanted through it. Drip irrigation is often required, with drip tape laid under the plastic, as plastic mulch is impermeable to water.

Materials

Rubber mulch nuggets in a playground. The white fibers are nylon cords, which are present in the tires from which the mulch is made.
Shredded wood used as mulch. This type of mulch is often dyed to improve its appearance in the landscape.
Pine needles used as mulch. Also called "pinestraw" in the southern US.
Aged Compost mulch on a flower bed
Crushed stone mulch
Spring daffodils push through shredded wood mulch

Materials used as mulches vary and depend on a number of factors. Use takes into consideration availability, cost, appearance, the effect it has on the soilincluding chemical reactions and pH, durability, combustibility, rate of decomposition, how clean it issome can contain weed seeds or plant pathogens.[6]

A variety of materials are used as mulch:

In some areas of the United States, such as central Pennsylvania and northern California, mulch is often referred to as "tanbark", even by manufacturers and distributors. In these areas, the word "mulch" is used specifically to refer to very fine tanbark or peat moss.

Organic mulches

Organic mulches decay over time and are temporary. The way a particular organic mulch decomposes and reacts to wetting by rain and dew affects its usefulness.

Some mulches such as straw, peat, sawdust and other wood products may for a while negatively affect plant growth because of their wide carbon to nitrogen ratio,[10] because bacteria and fungi that decompose the materials remove nitrogen from the surrounding soil for growth.[11][12] However, whether this effect has any practical impact on gardens is disputed by researchers and the experience of gardeners.[13] Organic mulches can mat down, forming a barrier that blocks water and air flow between the soil and the atmosphere. Vertically applied organic mulches can wick water from the soil to the surface, which can dry out the soil.[14] Mulch made with wood can contain or feed termites, so care must be taken about not placing mulch too close to houses or building that can be damaged by those insects. Some mulch manufacturers recommend putting mulch several inches away from buildings.

Commonly available organic mulches include:[6]

Leaves

Grass clippings

Peat moss

However peat bogs are a valuable wildlife habitat, and peat is also one of the largest stores of carbon (in Britain, out of a total estimated 9952 million tonnes of carbon in British vegetation and soils, 6948 million tonnes carbon are estimated to be in Scottish, mostly peatland, soils[15]), so gardeners who wish to protect the environment will choose more sustainable alternatives.[16]

Wood chips

Woodchip mulch

Bark chips

Bark chips

Straw mulch / field hay / salt hay

Permaculture garden with a fruit tree, herbs, flowers and vegetables mulched with hay

Cardboard / newspaper

Colored Mulch

Some organic mulches are colored red, brown, black, and other colors. Isopropanolamine, specifically 1-Amino-2-propanol or DOW™ monoisopropanolamine, may be used as a pigment dispersant and color fastener in these mulches.[17][18][19][20] Types of mulch which can be dyed include: wood chips, bark chips (barkdust) and pine straw. Colored mulch is made by dyeing the mulch in a water-based solution of colorant and chemical binder. When colored mulch first entered the market, most formulas were suspected to contain toxic, heavy metals and other contaminates. Today, “current investigations indicate that mulch colorants pose no threat to people, pets or the environment. The dyes currently used by the mulch and soil industry are similar to those used in the cosmetic and other manufacturing industries (i.e., iron oxide),” as stated by the Mulch and Soil Council.[21] Colored mulch can be applied anywhere non-colored mulch is used (such as large bedded areas or around plants) and features many of the same gardening benefits as traditional mulch, such as improving soil productivity and retaining moisture.[22] As mulch decomposes, just as with non-colored mulch, more mulch may need to be added to continue providing benefits to the soil and plants. However, if mulch is faded, spraying dye to previously spread mulch in order to restore color is an option.[23]

Anaerobic (sour) mulch

Mulch normally smells like freshly cut wood, but sometimes develops a toxicity that causes it to smell like vinegar, ammonia, sulfur or silage. This happens when material with ample nitrogen content is not rotated often enough and it forms pockets of increased decomposition. When this occurs, the process may become anaerobic and produce these phytotoxic materials in small quantities. Once exposed to the air, the process quickly reverts to an aerobic process, but these toxic materials may be present for a period of time. If the mulch is placed around plants before the toxicity has had a chance to dissipate, then the plants could very likely be damaged or killed depending on their hardiness. Plants that are predominantly low to the ground or freshly planted are the most susceptible, and the phytotoxicity may prevent germination of some seeds.[24]

If sour mulch is applied and there is plant kill, the best thing to do is to water the mulch heavily. Water dissipates the chemicals faster and refreshes the plants. Removing the offending mulch may have little effect, because by the time plant kill is noticed, most of the toxicity is already dissipated. While testing after plant kill will not likely turn up anything, a simple pH check may reveal high acidity, in the range of 3.8 to 5.6 instead of the normal range of 6.0 to 7.2. Finally, placing a bit of the offending mulch around another plant to check for plant kill will verify if the toxicity has departed. If the new plant is also killed, then sour mulch is probably not the problem.

Groundcovers (living mulches)

Main articles: Groundcovers and Living mulch

Groundcovers are plants which grow close to the ground, under the main crop, to slow the development of weeds and provide other benefits of mulch. They are usually fast-growing plants that continue growing with the main crops. By contrast, cover crops are incorporated into the soil or killed with herbicides. However, live mulches also may need to be mechanically or chemically killed eventually to prevent competition with the main crop.[25]

Some groundcovers can perform additional roles in the garden such as nitrogen fixation in the case of clovers, dynamic accumulation of nutrients from the subsoil in the case of creeping comfrey (Symphytum ibericum), and even food production in the case of Rubus tricolor.[26]

On-site mulch production

Owing to the great bulk of mulch which is often required on a site, it is often impractical and expensive to source and import sufficient mulch materials. An alternative to importing mulch materials is to grow them on site in a "mulch garden" - an area of the site dedicated entirely to the production of mulch which is then transferred to the growing area.[26] Mulch gardens should be sited as close as possible to the growing area so as to facilitate transfer of mulch materials.[26]

Mulching (composting) over unwanted plants

Main article: Sheet mulching

Sufficient mulch over plants will destroy them, and may be more advantageous than using herbicide, cutting, mowing, pulling, raking, or tilling. The higher the temperature that this "mulch" is composted, the quicker the reduction of undesirable materials. "Undesirable materials" may include living seed, plant "trash", as well as pathogens such as from animal feces, urine (e.g. hantavirus), fleas, lice, ticks, etc.

In some ways this improves the soil by attracting and feeding earthworms, and adding humus. Earthworms "till" the soil, and their feces are among the best fertilizers and soil conditioners.

Urine may be toxic to plants if applied to growing areas undiluted. See Compost ingredients: Urine.

Polypropylene and polyethylene mulch

Polypropylene mulch is made up of polypropylene polymers where polyethylene mulch is made up of polyethylene polymers. These mulches are commonly used in many plastics. Polyethylene is used mainly for weed reduction, where polypropylene is used mainly on perennials.[27] This mulch is placed on top of the soil and can be done by machine or hand with pegs to keep the mulch tight against the soil. This mulch can prevent soil erosion, reduce weeding, conserve soil moisture, and increase temperature of the soil.[28] Ultimately this can reduce the amount of work a farmer may have to do, and the amount of herbicides applied during the growing period. The black and clear mulches capture sunlight and warm the soil increasing the growth rate. White and other reflective colours will also warm the soil, but they do not suppress weeds as well.[28] This mulch may require other sources of obtaining water such as drip irrigation since it can reduce the amount of water that reaches the soil.[28] This mulch needs to be manually removed at the end of the season since when it starts to break down it breaks down into smaller pieces.[29] If the mulch is not removed before it starts to break down eventually it will break down into ketones and aldehydes polluting the soil.[29] This mulch is technically biodegradable but does not break down into the same materials the more natural biodegradable mulch does.

Biodegradable mulch

Quality biodegradable mulches are made out of plant starches and sugars or polyester fibres. These starches can come from plants such as wheat and corn.[30] These mulch films may be a bit more permeable allowing more water into the soil. This mulch can prevent soil erosion, reduce weeding, conserve soil moisture, and increase temperature of the soil.[28] Ultimately this can reduce the amount of herbicides used and manual labour farmers may have to do throughout the growing season. At the end of the season these mulches will start to break down from heat. Microorganisms in the soil break down the mulch into two components, water and CO2, leaving no toxic residues behind.[30] This source of mulch is even less manual labour since it does not need to be removed at the end of the season and can actually be tilled into the soil.[30] With this mulch its important to take into consideration that its mulch is more delicate then other kinds. It should be placed on a day which is not too hot and with less tension then other synthetic mulches.[30] These also can be placed by machine or hand but its ideal to have a more starchy mulch that will allow it to stick to the soil better.

See also

References

  1. RHS A-Z encyclopedia of garden plants. United Kingdom: Dorling Kindersley. 2008. p. 1136. ISBN 1405332964.
  2. Alfred J. Turgeon; Lambert Blanchard McCarty; Nick Edward Christians (2009). Weed control in turf and ornamentals. Prentice Hall. p. 126. ISBN 978-0-13-159122-6.
  3. Mahesh K. Upadhyaya; Robert E. Blackshaw (2007). Non-chemical Weed Management: Principles, Concepts and Technology. CABI. pp. 135–. ISBN 978-1-84593-291-6.
  4. Vegetable Gardening: Growing and Harvesting Vegetables. Murdoch Books. 2004. pp. 110–. ISBN 978-1-74045-519-0.
  5. Dennis R. Pittenger (2002). California Master Gardener Handbook. UCANR Publications. pp. 567–. ISBN 978-1-879906-54-9.
  6. 1 2 3 Louise; Bush-Brown, James (1996). America's garden book. New York: Macmillan USA. p. 768. ISBN 0-02-860995-6{{inconsistent citations}}
  7. Leon C. Snyder (2000). Gardening in the Upper Midwest. University of Minnesota Press. pp. 47–. ISBN 978-0-8166-3838-3.
  8. 1 2 Patrick Whitefield, 2004, The Earth Care Manual, Permanent Publications, ISBN 978-1-85623-021-6
  9. Stout, Ruth. Gardening Without Work. Devon-Adair Press, 1961. Reprinted by Norton Creek Press, 2011, pp. 6-7. ISBN 978-0-9819284-6-3
  10. http://www.eau.ee/~agronomy/vol07Spec1/p7sI53.pdf
  11. http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=3111&Type=2
  12. Jeff Gillman (1 February 2008). The Truth About Organic Gardening: Benefits, Drawnbacks, and the Bottom Line. Timber Press. pp. 51–. ISBN 978-1-60469-005-7.
  13. Stout, Ruth. Gardening Without Work. Devon-Adair Press, 1961. Reprinted by Norton Creek Press, 2011, pp. 192-193. ISBN 978-0-9819284-6-3
  14. David A. Bainbridge (11 June 2007). A Guide for Desert and Dryland Restoration: New Hope for Arid Lands. Island Press. pp. 239–. ISBN 978-1-61091-082-8.
  15. Milne, R.; T. A. Brown (1997). "Carbon in the vegetation and soils of Great Britain". Journal of Environmental Management 49: 413–433. doi:10.1006/jema.1995.0118.
  16. Walker, John (2011). How to Create an Eco Garden: The practical guide to greener, planet-friendly gardening. Wigston, Leicestershire: Aquamarine. p. 33. ISBN 9781903141892.
  17. Product Information - DOW™ Monoisopropanolamine (MIPA)
  18. Product Safety Assessment - DOW™ Monoisopropanolamine
  19. 2010 Mulch Magic Red Material Safety Data Sheet
  20. 2007 Mulch Magic Red Material Safety Data Sheet
  21. http://www.mulchandsoilcouncil.org/faqs/mulch.php
  22. http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/mulch.html
  23. http://homeguides.sfgate.com/there-spray-can-use-renew-mulch-color-64513.html
  24. Beware of Sour Mulch
  25. Brandsaeter et al. 1998, Tharp and Kells, 2001
  26. 1 2 3 Jacke and Toensmeier, Edible Forest Gardening, vol. II
  27. Dovorak, P. "BLACK POLYPROPYLENE MULCH TEXTILE IN ORGANIC AGRICULTURE" (PDF). Czech University of Life Science Prague, Kamýcká 52. Retrieved 16 November 2014.
  28. 1 2 3 4 Shonbeck, Dr. Mark (12 September 2012). "Synthetic Mulching Materials for Weed Management". Extension. Retrieved 16 November 2014.
  29. 1 2 Corbin, A (2013). "Using Biodegradable Plastics as Agricultural Mulches." (PDF). Retrieved 16 November 2014.
  30. 1 2 3 4 "Biodegradable Mulch" (PDF). Penn State Extension. Retrieved 16 November 2014.

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