Guimarães

Guimarães
Municipality

Clockwise from top left: Guimarães Castle, a chimney at the Duke of Braganza's Palace, statue of Dom Afonso Henriques at the Ducal Palace, Oliveira Plaza, panoramic view of Guimarães historical heritage area from Mount Penha, Santa Maria Street, Santiago Plaza

Flag

Coat of arms
Coordinates: 41°27′N 8°18′W / 41.450°N 8.300°W / 41.450; -8.300Coordinates: 41°27′N 8°18′W / 41.450°N 8.300°W / 41.450; -8.300
Country  Portugal
Region Norte
Subregion Ave
Intermunic. comm. Ave
District Braga
Parishes 48
Government
  President Domingos Bragança (PS)
Area
  Total 241.3 km2 (93.2 sq mi)
Population (2011)
  Total 158,124
  Density 660/km2 (1,700/sq mi)
Time zone WET/WEST (UTC+0/+1)
Website www.cm-guimaraes.pt
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Historic Centre of Guimarães
Name as inscribed on the World Heritage List

Aerial view of the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza (From IPPAR)
Type Cultural
Criteria ii, iii, iv
Reference 1031
UNESCO region Europe and North America
Inscription history
Inscription 2001 (25th Session)
The Toural square in 1864.
The Toural square in 2009

Guimarães (Portuguese pronunciation: [ɡimɐˈɾɐ̃ȷ̃ʃ]) is a northern Portuguese city and municipality in the district of Braga, in the Ave Subregion (one of the more industrialized NUTS III subregions of the country), in the historial and cultural Minho Province. The city proper has a population of 52,181 inhabitants.[1] The population of the municipality in 2011 was 158,124,[2] in an area of 240.95 square kilometres (93.03 sq mi).[3] The present Mayor is Domingos Bragança, of the Socialist Party. The municipality is bordered to the north by the municipality of Póvoa de Lanhoso, to the east by Fafe, to the south by Felgueiras, Vizela and Santo Tirso, to the west by Vila Nova de Famalicão and the northwest by Braga.

It is an historical city that had an important role in the formation of Portugal and it was settled in the 9th century, at which time it was called Vimaranes. This denomination might have had its origin in the warrior Vímara Peres, when he chose this area as the main government seat for the County of Portugal which he conquered for the Kingdom of Galicia.

Guimarães is one of the country's most important historical cities. Its historical center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it one of the largest tourist centers in the region.

The city is often referred to as the "birthplace of the Portuguese nationality" or "the cradle city" (Cidade Berço in Portuguese). This might be because the administrative seat of the County of Portugal was established there by Henry of Burgundy, or that it might also been the birthplace of Afonso I of Portugal, the first Portuguese king or because of the historical role of the city in the Battle of São Mamede (24 June 1128), which had a tremendous importance in the formation of Portugal and was fought in the vicinity of the city, However, due to the needs of the Reconquista, the governative center was changed to Coimbra in 1129. The "Vimaranenses" are also called "Conquistadores" (the Conquerors) in relation with the historical heritage of the conquest initiated in Guimarães.

Guimarães, jointly with Maribor, Slovenia, was the European Capital of Culture in 2012.

History

The Oliveira square, in the historical center of Guimarães, with the Padrão do Salado on the left

The city of Guimarães is historically associated with the foundation and identity of the Portuguese nationality. Guimarães, among other settlements, precedes the foundation of Portugal and because of its role in the foundation of the country it is known as the "cradle of the Portuguese nationality". In 1128, major political and military events that would lead to the independence and the birth of a new nation took place in Guimarães. For this reason, in one of the old towers of the city's old wall it is written "Aqui nasceu Portugal" (Portugal was born here).

Pre and Proto-History

The area in which Guimarães is integrated had permanent settlements since the Chalcolithic. In its municipality this can be witnessed by the Citânia (Castro) of Briteiros and Sabroso and archeologic station of Penha.

The Ara of Trajan hints the use of village of Caldas das Taipas as a spa town by the Romans.

From the foundation of Guimarães to the foundation of Portugal

Statue of Mumadona Dias, in front of the city court.

After the political actions of the Reconquista organized by the Kingdom of Galicia in the 9th century, the medieval foundations of the actual city have roots in the 10th century. At this point, the Countess Mumadona Dias, erected a monastery in her property of Vimaranes, which originated the fixation of people in the area known as "vila baixa" (downtown). At the same time, she ordered the construction of a castle on the hill area which became known as "vila alta" (uptown), to defend the settlement. To connect these to other areas, the Rua de Santa Maria was built.

The monastery became the "Real Colegiada" (Royal Collegiate church) and throughout time acquired importance due to the privileges and donations given to it by nobles and kings and it became a famous pilgrimage site.

Henry, Count of Portugal approved the first national foral possibly in 1096 (but not confirmed). The foral proves the growing importance of the village of Guimarães at that time, which was chosen as the capital of the County of Portugal.

On 24 June 1128, the "Batalha de São Mamede" (Battle of São Mamede) took place in Guimarães.

Middle Ages

During the reign of the king Denis, as the village was expanding, it was partially surrounded by defensive wall. In the meanwhile, mendicant orders got settled in Guimarães and helped to mold the shape of the city. Later, during the reign of John I the wall would be torn down and the two parts of the city (uptown and downtown) would be finally united and the city started to expand outside the city walls.

Modern and contemporary

Until the 19th century the structure of the city did not suffer many transformations besides the construction of a few more churches, convents and palaces. It was by the ending of the 19th century that new urbanistic ideas of hygiene and symmetry that the village, that was promoted to city by the Queen Maria II on 23 June 1853 had its greatest changes.

The complete demolition of the city walls was authorized and the creation of many streets and avenues could start at that point. The controlled process of urbanization permitted the conservation of the city's magnificent historical center.

Geography

Geology

Granite rock formations occupy the majority of the municipality but schist rocks can also be found in certain zones in the northwest of the municipality. On the southeast, clay can be found in stream bed of the Ave, Vizela and Selho rivers.

Orography and hydrography

Couros river, near Guimarães Youth Hostel

The municipality is delimited at north by the "Senhora do Monte" (Senhora hill), at northwest by the hills of Falperra, Sameiro, Outeiro and Penedice. To the south by the Penha hill which with height of 613 meters, it is the highest point of the municipality.

Guimarães is part of the drainage basin of Ave river which divides the municipality in half. The Ave river has as tributaries the Vizela river, Torto river, Febras river and inside the city, the Selho river, the Couros river and the Santa Lúzia stream.

Climate

Guimarães is located in a valley and surrounded by hills and because there is some distance to the sea, the Winter is normally cold and rainy and the Summer is hot and lightly humid. The average annual temperature is 14 °C.

Fauna

Red-legged Partridge

There is not much diversity, specially in the urban areas, but the municipality has some species of cynegetic interest such as: the red fox, the wild boar, the turtle dove, the thrush, the pigeon and the red-legged partridge. In the green areas of the city, the most common species are rodents, especially squirrels.

Parishes

Administratively, the municipality is divided into 48 civil parishes (freguesias):[4]

  • Abação e Gémeos
  • Airão Santa Maria, Airão São João e Vermil
  • Aldão
  • Arosa e Castelões
  • Atães e Rendufe
  • Azurém
  • Balazar
  • Barco
  • Briteiros Salvador e Briteiros Santa Leocádia
  • Briteiros Santo Estêvão e Donim
  • Brito
  • Caldas das Taipas (Caldelas)
  • Candoso (São Martinho)
  • Candoso São Tiago e Mascotelos
  • Conde e Gandarela
  • Costa
  • Creixomil
  • Fermentões
  • Gonça
  • Gondar
  • Guardizela
  • Infantas
  • Leitões, Oleiros e Figueiredo
  • Longos
  • Lordelo
  • Mesão Frio
  • Moreira de Cónegos
  • Nespereira
  • Oliveira, São Paio e São Sebastião
  • Pencelo
  • Pinheiro
  • Polvoreira
  • Ponte
  • Prazins (Santa Eufémia)
  • Prazins Santo Tirso e Corvite
  • Ronfe
  • Sande São Lourenço e Balazar
  • Sande (São Martinho)
  • Sande Vila Nova e Sande São Clemente
  • São Torcato
  • Selho (São Cristóvão)
  • Selho (São Jorge)
  • Selho São Lourenço e Gominhães
  • Serzedelo
  • Serzedo e Calvos
  • Silvares
  • Souto Santa Maria, Souto São Salvador e Gondomar
  • Tabuadelo e São Faustino
  • Urgezes

Demographics

In 2001, the population of the municipality was 159 576. In 2010, it is estimated that the population will reach 188 178 inhabitants. The population is constituted by 78 436 males and 81 140 females. Guimarães is the 13th biggest city in the country in terms of population.

Evolution of the population of the municipality of Guimarães (1801–2011)
Evolution of the population in the city center (1864–2011)

Culture

Nossa Senhora da Consolação e dos Santos Passos Church, Guimarães, Portugal

Guimarães is an average size city but with a booming cultural life. Besides its museums, monuments, cultural associations, art galeries and popular festivities, it has since September 2005, an important cultural space, the Vila Flor Cultural Center. This cultural center has two auditoria, exhibition center and a concert-cafe. Guimarães was the European Capital of Culture in 2012, together with Maribor.

Guimarães was elected by the New York Times one of the 41 places to go in 2011 and NYT called it one of the Iberian peninsula's emerging cultural spots.[5]

Gastronomy

Joanina fair in Guimarães, where old activities are recreated such as the production of meat "cake"

The fact that since its beginning, Guimarães had a feminine monastery made much influence over its regional gastronomy, specially its confectionery. "Tortas de Guimarães" (Guimarães' pies) and "Toucinho do céu" (normally translated as bacon from heaven) are a good example. Besides the customary Minho gastronomy, the so-called "meat" cake is made here, which is a kind of bread in a pizza shape served with pig, sardines or other toppings.

Traditions and festivities

Museums, cultural spaces and art galleries

Centro Cultural Vila Flor

The city of Guimarães has several cultural spaces of reference at a regional and national level. Among the several museums of the city, the Alberto Sampaio museum is the one that stands out. Founded in 1928, it opened its doors to the public in 1931; it is located in the old site of the Canon the Collegiate of Our Lady of Oliveira (Cabido da Colegiada de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira in Portuguese). It contains a rich collection of pieces from the 14th, 15th and 16th century, including one rare vest that was used by the king John I.

Headquarters of the Martins Sarmento Society

The Martins Sarmento Society (Sociedade Martins Sarmento in Portuguese) is one of the country oldest institutions dedicated to the study and preservation of archaeological artifacts. The society owns two museums: the Archaeological Museum of the Martins Sarmento Society, which is known by its prehistory and protohistory collections and also its numismatics and epigraphy collections; and the Castro Culture Museum which is dedicated to the Castro culture.

There is also: the Primitive Modern Arts Museum, located in the Domus Municipalis (the old city hall), which contains a collection of naïve art; the Museum of the Village of São Torcato, which is dedicated to the region and its relationship with the monastery and Saint Torcato (São Torcato in Portuguese); the Agriculture Museum of Fermentões, which exhibits collections of the traditional agricultural practices of the region; and the Museum of São Sebastião, inaugurated on 24 March 1984, which contains mainly sacred art.

Other cultural venues include:

Sports

Guimarães has a major sports club, Vitória Sport Clube, whose football (soccer) team has been the city's representative in the Primeira Liga for many years. Vitória SC also has volleyball and basketball squads competing in the top divisions of their sports.

Society

The church in the Toural square, lit to celebrate UNESCO heritage status

In 2008, the city ranked second in the index of most livable city in Portugal. It is also the second least polluted city in the country.

In 2004, 89% of the population had running water; it was forecast that the number would raise to 95% by 2006. In 2001, 63.5% of the population had basic sanitation; it was forecast that the number would raise to 80% by 2008. In 2001, 100% of the population had access to waste management services.

However, several people complain that the city, together with other cities of the Braga district has had an unaesthetic and unorganized growth.

Social media

Newspapers

Guimarães ranks fourth in the country for available newspapers. The oldest was the "Azemel Vimaranense", founded in 1822; it possibly had its publication halted by the Vilafrancada incidents. From 1856, other newspapers start to appear, amongst them "A Tesoura de Guimarães". Actually the citys' newspapers are:

Radios

There are two stations headquartered in the town: Radio Fundação (95.8 FM) and Radio Santiago (98.0 FM).

Television

The Guimarães TV transmission is made online since 24 July 2007; it is the result of a collaboration between the city's assembly and the Guimarães Cybercenter. Its contents are feature in the Região Norte TV channel which is available through cable.

The "canalguimarães" is another online channel that started operating in March 2010. It is the fruit of the effort put in by an arts association, the "Associação de Socorros Mútuos Artística Vimaranense", one of the oldest associations of the city.

Economy

Guimarães is one of the most industrial municipalities in Portugal. Its primary industries are textiles, shoe industry and metalomechanics.

Transport

Guimarães is linked to Porto by the Guimarães line. This railway line was originally built with narrow gauge track, then modernised and rebuilt to the broad Iberian gauge in the first decade of the 21st century. The train service is operated by Comboios de Portugal (CP). Locally, Guimarães is served by TUG (Transportes Urbanos de Guimarães) which operates 21 bus routes serving the city.

International relations

Guimarães is twinned with:

Notable people

  • João Sousa, Tennis player, first Portuguese player to win an ATP World Tour Tennis in Malaysia 2013
  • Abel Salazar, physician, professor, investigator, painter, opponent of the Estado Novo, worked and lived in Oporto and died in Lisbon
  • D. Afonso Henriques, first king of Portugal (by tradition, but birthplace is disputed with Coimbra and Viseu)
  • D. Agostinho Barbosa, bishop of Ugento
  • Alberto Sampaio, historian
  • Alberto Martins, minister
  • Alfredo Pimenta, writer and historian
  • António Lobo de Carvalho, satirical poet of the 18th century
  • Bernardo Pinheiro Correia de Melo, Count of Arnoso, writer and member of Vencidos da Vida
  • Conde de Agrolongo, industrial and philanthropist
  • Conde de Margaride, influential political and social personality
  • Domingos Castro, athlete, twin brother of athlete Dionísio Castro
  • Dionísio Castro, athlete, twin brother of athlete Domingos Castro
  • Duarte Freitas do Amaral, influential politician of the period of the Estado Novo
  • Elisabete Matos, lyrical singer
  • Francisco Martins Sarmento, archaeologist
  • Fernando Meira (born on 5 June 1978), last played for Real Zaragoza and former Portugal player.
  • Gil Vicente, playwright and goldsmith(?), although the city pays tribute in various ways, his place of birth is debatable
  • Guilherme de Faria, poet
  • João Baptista Felgueiras, magistrate, minister, 1st Attorney General of the Crown
  • Joaquim Santos Simões, not born in Guimarães, lived there since 1957
  • José de Guimarães, artist
  • Paio Galvão, Cardinal and master of theology
  • Pope Damasus I, (mith)
  • Pedro Mendes (born on 26 February 1979), currently playing for Vitória S.C. and Portugal.
  • Salvador Ribeiro de Sousa (ou Salvador Dias Ribeiro), soldier and adventurer que se ilustrou na Birmânia por volta de 1600 (natural do Couto de Ronfe)
  • Vieirinha (born on 24 January 1986), currently playing for Wolfsburg and Portugal.

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Guimarães.
Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Guimarães.

References

  1. http://www.dgotdu.pt/PresentationLayer/ResourcesUser/DGOTDU/EstudosNaoPublicados/Guimaraes/GUIMARAES.pdf
  2. Instituto Nacional de Estatística
  3. Direção-Geral do Território
  4. Diário da República. "Law nr. 11-A/2013, pages 552 56-58" (pdf) (in Portuguese). Retrieved 23 July 2014.
  5. Wilder, Charly "The New York Times", 9 January 2011
  6. "Lisboa - Geminações de Cidades e Vilas" [Lisbon - Twinning of Cities and Towns]. Associação Nacional de Municípios Portugueses [National Association of Portuguese Municipalities] (in Portuguese). Retrieved 2013-08-23.
  7. "Acordos de Geminação, de Cooperação e/ou Amizade da Cidade de Lisboa" [Lisbon - Twinning Agreements, Cooperation and Friendship]. Camara Municipal de Lisboa (in Portuguese). Retrieved 2013-08-23.
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