Molecular gastronomy

Molecular gastronomy includes the study of how different cooking temperatures affect eggs,[1][2] and their viscosity, their surface tension, and different ways of introducing air into them.[3]
Spherification of juices and other liquids is a technique of molecular gastronomy

Molecular gastronomy is a subdiscipline of food science that seeks to investigate the physical and chemical transformations of ingredients that occur in cooking. Its program includes three axis, as cooking was recognized to have three components, which are social, artistic and technical.[4] Molecular cuisine is a modern style of cooking, and takes advantage of many technical innovations from the scientific disciplines.

The term "molecular gastronomy" was coined in 1988 by late Oxford physicist Nicholas Kurti and the French INRA chemist Hervé This.[5] Some chefs associated with the term choose to reject its use,[6] preferring other terms such as multi sensory cooking, modernist cuisine, culinary physics, and experimental cuisine.

History

Internationally renowned French chemist and cook Hervé This, known as "The Father of Molecular Gastronomy"[7]
Heston Blumenthal dislikes the term 'molecular gastronomy', believing it makes the practice sound "complicated" and "elitist."[8]

There are many branches of food science that study different aspects of food, such as safety, microbiology, preservation, chemistry, engineering and physics. Until the advent of molecular gastronomy, there was no formal discipline dedicated to studying the chemical processes of cooking in the home and in restaurants - as opposed to food preparation for the mass market. Food science has mostly been concerned with industrial food production and while the disciplines may overlap with each other to varying degrees, they are considered separate areas of investigation.

Though many disparate examples of the scientific investigation of cooking exist throughout history, the creation of the discipline of molecular gastronomy was intended to bring together what had previously been fragmented and isolated investigation into the chemical and physical processes of cooking into an organized discipline within food science to address what the other disciplines within food science either do not cover, or cover in a manner intended for scientists rather than cooks. These mere investigations into the scientific process of cooking have unintentionally evolved into a revolutionary practice that is now prominent in today's culinary world.

The term "molecular and physical gastronomy" was coined in 1988 by Hungarian physicist Nicholas Kurti and French physical chemist Hervé This. In 1992, it became the title for a set of workshops held in Erice, Italy (originally titled "Science and Gastronomy")[5] that brought together scientists and professional cooks for discussions about the science behind traditional cooking preparations. Eventually, the shortened term "Molecular Gastronomy" also became the name of the scientific discipline co-created by Kurti and This, based on exploring the science behind traditional cooking methods.[5][9][10]

Kurti and This have been the co-directors of the "Molecular and Physical Gastronomy" meetings in Erice and had considered the creation of a formal discipline around the subjects discussed in the meetings.[10] The American food science writer Harold McGee,[5] was invited for the first Workshop. After Kurti's death in 1998, the name of the Erice workshops was changed by This to "The International Workshop on Molecular Gastronomy 'N. Kurti'". This remained the sole director of the subsequent workshops from 1999 through 2004 and continues his research in the field of Molecular Gastronomy today.

University of Oxford physicist Nicholas Kurti was an enthusiastic advocate of applying scientific knowledge to culinary problems. He was one of the first television cooks in the UK, hosting a black and white television show in 1969 entitled "The Physicist in the Kitchen" where he demonstrated techniques such as using a syringe to inject hot mince pies with brandy in order to avoid disturbing the crust.[11] That same year, he held a presentation for the Royal Society of London (also entitled "The Physicist in the Kitchen") in which he is often quoted to have stated:[12]

“ I think it is a sad reflection on our civilization that while we can and do measure the temperature in the atmosphere of Venus we do not know what goes on inside our soufflés. ”
— Nicholas Kurti

During the presentation Kurti demonstrated making meringue in a vacuum chamber, the cooking of sausages by connecting them across a car battery, the digestion of protein by fresh pineapple juice and a reverse baked alaska - hot inside, cold outside — cooked in a microwave oven.[12][13] Kurti was also an advocate of low temperature cooking, repeating 18th century experiments by the English scientist Benjamin Thompson by leaving a 2 kg (4.4 lb) lamb joint in an oven at 80 °C (176 °F). After 8.5 hours, both the inside and outside temperature of the lamb joint were around 75 °C (167 °F), and the meat was tender and juicy.[12] Together with his wife, Giana Kurti, Nicholas Kurti edited an anthology on food and science by fellows and foreign members of the Royal Society.

Hervé This started collecting "culinary precisions" (old kitchen wives' tales and cooking tricks) in the early 1980s and started testing these precisions to see which ones held up; his collection now numbers some 25,000. In 1995, he also has received a PhD in Physical Chemistry of Materials for which he wrote his thesis on "La gastronomie moléculaire et physique" (molecular and physical gastronomy), served as an adviser to the French minister of education, lectured internationally, and was invited to join the lab of Nobel Prize winning molecular chemist Jean-Marie Lehn.[14][15] This has published several books in French, four of which have been translated into English, including Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor, Kitchen Mysteries: Revealing the Science of Cooking, Cooking: The Quintessential Art, and Building a Meal: From Molecular Gastronomy to Culinary Constructivism. He currently publishes a series of essays in French and hosts free monthly seminars on molecular gastronomy at the INRA in France. He gives free and public seminars on molecular gastronomy any month, and once a year, he gives a public and free course on molecular gastronomy. Hervé This also authors a website and a pair of blogs on the subject in French and publishes monthly collaborations with French chef Pierre Gagnaire on Gagnaire's website.[16][17][18]

Though she is rarely credited, the origins of the Erice workshops (originally entitled "Science and Gastronomy") can be traced back to the cooking teacher Elizabeth Cawdry Thomas who studied at Le Cordon Bleu in London and ran a cooking school in Berkeley, California. The one-time wife of a physicist, Thomas had many friends in the scientific community and an interest in the science of cooking. In 1988 while attending a meeting at the Ettore Majorana Center for Scientific Culture in Erice, Thomas had a conversation with Professor Ugo Valdrè of the University of Bologna who agreed with her that the science of cooking was an undervalued subject and encouraged her to organize a workshop at the Ettore Majorana Center. Thomas eventually approached the director of the Ettore Majorana center, physicist Antonino Zichichi who liked the idea. Thomas and Valdrè approached Kurti to be the director of the workshop. By Kurti's invitation, noted food science writer Harold McGee and French Physical Chemist Hervé This became the co-organizers of the workshops, though McGee stepped down after the first meeting in 1992.[5]

Up until 2001, The International Workshop on Molecular Gastronomy "N. Kurti" (IWMG) was named the "International Workshops of Molecular and Physical Gastronomy" (IWMPG). The first meeting was held in 1992 and the meetings have continued every few years thereafter until the most recent in 2004. Each meeting encompassed an overall theme broken down into multiple sessions over the course of a few days.[19]

The focus of the workshops each year were as follows:[13][20]

Examples of sessions within these meetings have included:[13][21]

Heated bath used for low temperature cooking
Rotary evaporator used in the preparation of distillates and extracts

Precursors

Benjamin Thompson, Count Rumford (1753–1814) was one of the early pioneers in the science of food & cooking.

The idea of using techniques developed in chemistry to study food is not a new one, for instance the discipline of food science has existed for many years. Kurti and This acknowledged this fact and though they decided that a new, organized and specific discipline should be created within food science that investigated the processes in regular cooking (as food science was primarily concerned with the nutritional properties of food and developing methods to process food on an industrial scale), there are several notable examples throughout history of investigations into the science of everyday cooking recorded as far as back to 18th century.[4][22]

Professors Evelyn G. Halliday and Isabel T. Noble

In 1943 the University of Chicago Press published a book entitled Food Chemistry and Cookery by the then University of Chicago Associate Professor of Home Economics Evelyn G. Halliday and University of Minnesota Associate Professor of Home Economics Isabel T Noble. In the foreword of the 346 page book the authors state that, "The main purpose of this book is to give an understanding of the chemical principles upon which good practices in food preparation and preservation are based." [23]

The book includes chapters such as "The Chemistry of Milk", "The Chemistry of Baking Powders and Their Use in Baking", "The Chemistry of Vegetable Cookery" and "Determination of Hydrogen Ion Concentration" and contains numerous illustrations of lab experiments including such things as a Distillation Apparatus for Vegetable Samples and a Pipette for Determining the Relative Viscosity of Pectin Solutions.[23] The professors had previously published The Hows and Whys of Cooking in 1928.[24]

Professor Belle Lowe of Iowa State College (1886–1961)

In 1932 the academic Belle Lowe, then the professor of Food and Nutrition at Iowa State College, published a book entitled Experimental Cookery: From The Chemical And Physical Standpoint which became a standard textbook for home economics courses across the United States. The book is an exhaustively researched look into the science of everyday cooking referencing hundreds of sources and including many experiments. At a length of over 600 pages with section titles such as "The Relation Of Cookery To Colloidal Chemistry", "Coagulation Of Proteins", "The Factors Affecting The Viscosity Of Cream And Ice Cream", "Syneresis", "Hydrolysis Of Collagen" and "Changes In Cooked Meat And The Cooking Of Meat", the volume rivals or exceeds the scope of many other books on the subject, at a much earlier date.[25][26]

Belle Lowe was born near Utica, Missouri on February 7, 1886. She graduated from Chillicothe High School and then received a teaching certificate (1907) from the Kirksville State Normal School in Kirksville, Missouri. She also received a Ph. B. (1911) and an M.S. (1934) from the University of Chicago. In 1957, Lowe received an honorary Ph.D. from Iowa State College (University). In addition to "Experimental Cookery", she published numerous articles on the subject of the science of cooking. She died in 1961.[27]

According to Hervé:

In the second century BC, the anonymous author of a papyrus kept in London used a balance to determine whether fermented meat was lighter than fresh meat. Since then, many scientists have been interested in food and cooking. In particular, the preparation of meat stock—the aqueous solution obtained by thermal processing of animal tissues in water—has been of great interest. It was first mentioned in the fourth century BC by Roman Apicius (André (ed), 1987), and recipes for stock preparation appear in classic texts (La Varenne, 1651; Menon, 1756; Carême & Plumerey, 1981) and most French culinary books. Chemists have been interested in meat stock preparation and, more generally, food preparation since the eighteenth century (Lémery, 1705; Geoffrey le Cadet, 1733; Cadet de Vaux, 1818; Darcet, 1830). Antoine-Laurent de Lavoisier is perhaps the most famous among them—in 1783, he studied the processes of stock preparation by measuring density to evaluate quality (Lavoisier, 1783). In reporting the results of his experiments, Lavoisier wrote, "Whenever one considers the most familiar objects, the simplest things, it's impossible not to be surprised to see how our ideas are vague and uncertain, and how, as a consequence, it is important to fix them by experiments and facts" (author's translation). Of course, Justus von Liebig should not be forgotten in the history of culinary science (von Liebig, 1852) and stock was not his only concern. Another important figure was Benjamin Thompson, later knighted Count Rumford, who studied culinary transformations and made many proposals and inventions to improve them, for example by inventing a special coffee pot for better brewing. There are too many scientists who have contributed to the science of food preparation to list here. — Hervé This, 2006[4][28]

Marie-Antoine Carême (1784–1833)

The concept of molecular gastronomy was perhaps presaged by Marie-Antoine Carême, one of the most famous French chefs, who said in the early 19th century that when making a food stock "the broth must come to a boil very slowly, otherwise the albumin coagulates, hardens; the water, not having time to penetrate the meat, prevents the gelatinous part of the osmazome from detaching itself."

Objectives

The objectives of molecular gastronomy, as defined by Hervé This, are:

Current objectives

Looking for the mechanisms of culinary transformations and processes (from a chemical and physical point of view) in three areas:[9][29]

  1. the social phenomena linked to culinary activity
  2. the artistic component of culinary activity
  3. the technical component of culinary activity

Original objectives

The original fundamental objectives of molecular gastronomy were defined by This in his doctoral dissertation as:[29]

  1. Investigating culinary and gastronomical proverbs, sayings and old wives' tales
  2. Exploring existing recipes
  3. Introducing new tools, ingredients and methods into the kitchen
  4. Inventing new dishes
  5. Using molecular gastronomy to help the general public understand the contribution of science to society

However, This later recognized points 3, 4 and 5 as being not entirely scientific endeavours (more application of technology and educational), and has since revised the primary objectives of molecular gastronomy.[4]

Examples

Adam Melonas's signature preparation is an edible floral center piece named the "Octopop": a very low temperature cooked octopus fused using transglutaminase, dipped into an orange and saffron carrageenan gel and suspended on dill flower stalks

Example areas of investigation

[30]

Eponymous recipes

New dishes named after famous scientists include:[31]

As a style of cooking

A molecular gastronomy rendition of eggs Benedict served by wd~50 in New York City. The cubes are deep-fried Hollandaise sauce.

The term molecular gastronomy was originally intended to refer only to the scientific investigation of cooking,[32] though it has been adopted by a number of people and applied to cooking itself or to describe a style of cuisine.

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the term started to be used to describe a new style of cooking in which some chefs began to explore new possibilities in the kitchen by embracing science, research, technological advances in equipment and various natural gums and hydrocolloids produced by the commercial food processing industry.[33][34][35] It has since been used to describe the food and cooking of a number of famous chefs, though many of them do not accept the term as a description of their style of cooking.[6]

Ferran Adrià of El Bulli, prefers the term 'deconstructivist' to describe his style of cooking.[36]

Other names for the style of cuisine practiced by these chefs include:

No singular name has ever been applied in consensus, and the term "molecular gastronomy" continues to be used often as a blanket term to refer to any and all of these things - particularly in the media. Ferran Adrià hates the term "molecular gastronomy"[36] and prefers 'deconstructivist' to describe his style of cooking.[36] A 2006 open letter by Ferran Adria, Heston Blumenthal, Thomas Keller and Harold McGee published in The Times used no specific term, referring only to "a new approach to cooking" and "our cooking".[46]

Chefs

Grant Achatz (photo: plating a dish at Alinea) is the leading American chef in molecular gastronomy[51] shown here plating the dessert pictured above.
Homaro Cantu of Moto Restaurant was a molecular gastronomer

Chefs who are often associated with molecular gastronomy because of their embrace of science include Heston Blumenthal, Grant Achatz, Ferran Adrià, José Andrés, Sat Bains, Richard Blais, Marcel Vigneron, Sean Brock, Homaro Cantu, Michael Carlson, Wylie Dufresne, Pierre Gagnaire, Will Goldfarb, Adam Melonas, Randy Rucker, Kevin Sousa, Sean Wilkinson, Will LaRue, Dennis Maroudas, RJ Cooper and Laurent Gras.

Despite their central role in the popularisation of science based cuisine, both Adria and Blumenthal have expressed their frustration with the common mis-classification of their food and cooking as "molecular gastronomy",[52] On 10 December 2006 Heston Blumenthal and Harold McGee published a 'Statement on the "New Cookery" in the Observer in order to summarise what they saw as the central tenets of modern cuisine. Ferran Adria of El Bulli and Thomas Keller of the French Laundry and Per Se signed up to this and together released a joint statement in 2006 clarifying their approach to cooking,[6] stating that the term "molecular gastronomy" was coined in 1992 for a single workshop that did not influence them, and that the term does not describe any style of cooking.[6]

In February 2011, Nathan Myhrvold published the Modernist Cuisine, which led many chefs to further classify molecular gastronomy versus modernist cuisine. Myhrvold believes that his cooking style should not be called molecular gastronomy.[53]

Techniques, tools and ingredients

See also

People

Restaurants

Subjects

References

  1. ↑ Gadsby, Patricia (2006-02-20). "Cooking For Eggheads". Discover Magazine. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  2. ↑ "Eggs". Khymos.org. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  3. 1 2 Kuh, Patric (January 2005). "Proving It: Taking kitchen science to a whole new (molecular) level, Hervé This is changing the way France—and the world—cooks". gourmet.com. Retrieved 2011.
  4. 1 2 3 4 This, Hervé (November 2006), "Food for tomorrow? How the scientific discipline of molecular gastronomy could change the way we eat", EMBO Reports (European Molecular Biology Organization) 7 (11): 1062–6, doi:10.1038/sj.embor.7400850, PMC 1679779, PMID 17077859
  5. 1 2 3 4 5 "Harold McGee, Curious Cook: Modern Cooking, Science, and the Erice Workshops on Molecular and Physical Gastronomy". Curiouscook.com. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  6. 1 2 3 4 Heston Blumenthal (2006-12-10). "Statement on the New Cookery - Guardian Observer". London: Observer.guardian.co.uk. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  7. ↑ McGrane, Sally (2007-07-24). "The Father of Molecular Gastronomy Whips Up a New Formula". wired.com. Retrieved 2011-08-03.
  8. ↑ "'Molecular gastronomy is dead.' Heston speaks out". The Guardian (London). Retrieved 4 May 2010.
  9. 1 2 "INRA France Abstract on Molecular Gastronomy". Inra.fr. Archived from the original on October 15, 2009. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  10. 1 2 "What's All This We Hear about Molecular Gastronomy?". Blackwell Synergy. 2006-08-02. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  11. ↑ How to Dunk a Doughnut: The Science Of Everyday Life, Len Fisher, p.24
  12. 1 2 3 "History of Molecular Gastronomy". Khymos.org. 2008-05-13. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  13. 1 2 3 "Notes on the International Workshop on Molecular Gastronomy 2004". Egullet. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  14. ↑ "The Man Who Unboiled an Egg". The Observer. 2010-07-28. Retrieved 2013-02-17. interview with Hervé This
  15. ↑ Sally McGrane (2007-07-24). "The Father of Molecular Gastronomy Whips Up a New Formula - Wired Magazine". Wired.com. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  16. ↑ "Hervé This Blog". Hervethis.blogspot.com. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  17. ↑ "Hervé This Blog 2 | Gastronomie Moléculaire". Gastronomie-moleculaire.blogspot.com. 2004-02-26. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  18. ↑ "Pierre Gagnaire Website - Art et Science". Pierre-gagnaire.com. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  19. ↑ "Daily Gullet archives offline". Egullet.org. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  20. ↑ "Institutions". Khymos.org. 2009-06-12. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  21. ↑ "1997 INTERNATIONAL WORKSHOP ON MOLECULAR AND PHYSICAL GASTRONOMY - EMFCSC". Ccsem.infn.it. 1997-04-08. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  22. ↑ "1999 INTERNATIONAL WORKSHOP ON MOLECULAR AND PHYSICAL GASTRONOMY - EMFCSC". Ccsem.infn.it. 1999-05-10. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  23. 1 2 Halliday, Evelyn G.; Noble, Isabel T. (1943), Food Chemistry and Cookery, University of Chicago Press, retrieved 2010-09-08
  24. ↑ Halliday, Evelyn G.; Noble, Isabel T. (1928), Hows and Whys of Cooking, University of Chicago press, retrieved 2010-09-08
  25. ↑ Lowe, Belle (1937), Experimental Cooking, New York: John Wiley & Sons Inc., retrieved 2010-09-08
  26. ↑ Lowe, Belle (1932), Experimental Cooking, New York: John Wiley & Sons Inc., retrieved 2010-09-08
  27. ↑ Belle Lowe Biography and list of published articles, Iowa State Library, 2009-06-15, retrieved 2010-09-08
  28. ↑ "Hervé This Website - The History of Molecular Gastronomy". Sites.google.com. 1980-03-23. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  29. 1 2 "Definitions of Molecular Gastronomy". Khymos.org. 2010-08-09. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  30. ↑ "Peter Barham on Molecular Gastronomy – Discovery Channel". Discoverychannel.co.uk. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  31. ↑ Food for tomorrow? How the scientific discipline of molecular gastronomy could change the way we eat Hervé This, nature.com EMBO reports (2006) 7, 1062 - 1066 doi:10.1038/sj.embor.7400850
  32. ↑ "Food Technology Magazine Article by Herve This 12/2008" (PDF). Members.ift.org. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  33. ↑ "Molecular Gastronomy Resources". A La Cuisine!. 2004-11-20. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  34. ↑ Le Sanctuaire Store - Category Molecular Gastronomy Archived May 26, 2013 at the Wayback Machine
  35. ↑ Dietmar Hölscher. "nova kuirejo - SOSA Ingredients - Category Molecular Gastronomy". Mcc-shop.com. Retrieved 2010-09-08.
  36. 1 2 3 Toomey, Christine (28 March 2010). "What Ferran Adrià is cooking up after El Bulli". The Times (London). Retrieved 10 October 2010.
  37. 1 2 Abend, Lisa (March 26, 2008). "Fish Foam and Spherified Mango Juice: Will Spanish avant-garde cuisine stand the test of time?". slate.com. Retrieved 2011-08-03.
  38. ↑ "Next Culinary Movement - Culinary Constructivism". Movable Feast. 2004-11-17. Retrieved 2012-02-16.
  39. ↑ MOSKIN, JULIA (June 14, 2011). "After El Bulli, Spain Looks Forward". nytimes.com.
  40. ↑ El Celler de Can Roca The World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards 2011
  41. ↑ Alinea Biographies
  42. ↑ Restaurant Luomo Helsinki, Finland
  43. ↑ "modernistcuisine.com". modernistcuisine.com. Retrieved 2012-02-16.
  44. ↑ "Joan, Jordi and Josep Roca at Restaurant Ikarus". Hangar-7.com. Retrieved 2012-02-16.
  45. ↑ Cassi, Davide (February 2011), "Science and cooking: the era of molecular cuisine", EMBO Reports (European Molecular Biology Organization) 12: 191–6, doi:10.1038/embor.2011.18, PMC 3059914, PMID 21331098
  46. 1 2 Ferran Adria, Heston Blumenthal, Thomas Keller and Harold McGee (10 December 2006). "Statement on the 'new cookery'". London: guardian.co.uk. Retrieved 2011-08-03.
  47. ↑ "Adam Melonas's Progressive cuisine Blog". Madrid Lab. Retrieved 2012-02-16.
  48. ↑ Husband, Stuart (2 August 2012). "What next for El Bulli mastermind Ferran Adrià?". The Telegraph.
  49. ↑ KAMP, DAVID (2011-03-30). "Charlie Trotter, a Leader Left Behind". nytimes.com.
  50. ↑ Preston, Matt (April 29, 2008). "The new frontier". Melbourne: theage.com.au. Retrieved 2011-08-03.
  51. ↑ time.com The 2011 TIME 100 Poll: Grant Achatz Apr. 04, 2011
  52. ↑ Heston, Blumenthal. The Fat Duck Cookbook. p. 124. ISBN 978-0-7475-8369-1.
  53. ↑ "Zagat Buzz Blog: Chefs Weigh In: "Modernist Cuisine" or "Molecular Gastronomy"? March 24, 2011". Zagat.com. 2011-03-24. Retrieved 2011-03-30.
  54. 1 2 3 "'Molecular gastronomy is dead.' Heston speaks out | Compare and buy | The Observer". London: Observer.guardian.co.uk. 2011-02-09. Retrieved 2011-03-30.
  55. ↑ "Alinea Project". Cyelon cinnamon rods are ignited just before service and left to smoulder as the dish is eaten, creating a curtain of smoky cinnamon aroma
  56. ↑ "bacon decorated with butterscotch and dehydrated apple, served threaded on a horizontal wire".
  57. ↑ "Bite the Antenna - Gear - Food News". CHOW. 2006-11-09. Retrieved 2011-03-30.
  58. ↑ "You’re Mispronouncing "Achatz" - Feature - Food News". CHOW. 2007-01-12. Retrieved 2011-03-30.
  59. ↑ "Molecular Gastronomy: New Cooking Techniques with Familiar Food Flavors". Chef 2 Chef. Retrieved 2011-03-30.
  60. ↑ Lisa Abend, slate.com Fish Foam and Spherified Mango Juice: Will Spanish avant-garde cuisine stand the test of time? March 26, 2008

External links

Further reading

The dictionary definition of molecular gastronomy at Wiktionary

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