Angarkha

The term angarkha also called angrakha refers to traditional upper garment worn in South Asia which overlap and are tied to the left or right shoulder.

Display of various styles of Angarkha worn by men, Delhi textile museum.

Etymology

The term angarkha is derived from the Sanskrit word angrakshak, which means protection of the body.^[1] The angarkha was worn in various parts of South Asia, but while the basic cut remained the same, styles and lengths varied from region to region.^[2]

Design

Some styles of he angarkha can be short. However, the angarkha can also be a long coat, or it can be a long tunic which is tied to either the left or right shoulder.^[3] Sometimes, cotton jackets or tops are worn underneath the angarkha.^[4] Another style of angarkha is a sort of shirt worn under the jama and tied in two places on each side of the body. The angarkha also refers to a short calico vest with sleeves which descends only to the haunches. Instead of being fastened on both sides, is tied on one side only.^[5]

Gujarati and Rajasthani styles

A similar dress to the kurta known as the angarkha is traditionally worn in Gujarat and Rajasthan^[6] which is somewhat shorter in length than a straight cut Kurta and has a wider end similar to lower part of a ghagra.The front opens at either shoulder and the bottom has a wide end which flairs out. Some styles incorporate a placket.

The Rajasthani angarkha falls just below the waist^[7] in loose vertical gathers.^[8]

In Gujarat, men in parts of Kutch wear the angarkha also called the jama^[9] which has an asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips.^[10] However, some styles fall to below the knees.

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  Man on the left in Gujarati jama/angarkha

Rajasthani bandia angarkha

Another type of angarkha worn in Rajasthan is the bandia angarkha also known as bandi^[11][12] and angarkhi^[13] worn above the waist and is fastened with tapes either over the chest or on the shoulder, with long arms and narrow sleeves. The prints on the Rajasthani garments include sanganer prints which are of local origin.^[14]

• 

  Bandhani, Tie dye dresses drying in Jaipur

Mirjai

The traditional dress of Bihari people is the mirjai which is a modified form of the flowing robe (known as the jama)^[15] fastened on the right.^[16][17] The mirjai is an under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs.

Gujarati kediyu

The kediyu is worn in Gujarat. It is a long sleeved upper garment, pleated at the chest and reaches to the waist.^[18][19] Some designs however flare out to the knees. The prints on the kediyu include bandhani designs which are local to Gujarat and Rajasthan.^[20]

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  India (Gujarat), man's kediyu suruwal- Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum - DSC05310

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  Gujarati men in kediyu

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  Bandhani prints

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  Bandhani print open

Punjabi angarkha

A garment worn by women in the Punjab region was the anga (gown also known as an angarkha^[21][22] and peshwaj)^[23] which is similar to a loose coat and wadded with cotton.^[24] The women's anga flowed to the ankles. The angarkha also forms part of male clothing in the Punjab region^[25] which is a loose tunic^[26] that falls to below the knees^[27] and is fastened with a flap to the side and is worn with a front opening kurta.^[28] Men still wear the angarkha in Haryana which fastens to the left or right shoulder and Himachal Pradesh. Some styles of the Punjabi angarkha, such as those worn in Bahawalpur, open to the front.

• 

  Ranjit Singh Equestrian in Saffron Robe

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  A watercolor portrait of Ranjit Singh who wore the angarkha during his reign.^[1]

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  Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi, Bahawalpur in an angarkha

1. ^ Gupta, Hari Ram (1991) History of the Sikhs: The Sikh lion of Lahore, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, 1799-1839 [1]

Chamba angarkhi

The Chamba angarkhi of Himachal Pradesh is sewen tight at the torso, but below the waist it has an open fall like the modern skirt. The angarkhi is tied at the waist with a sash.^[29]

Kalidar angarkha

In Uttarakhand, men traditionally wear the kalidar angarkha which has many panels.^[30]

Elsewhere

A variation of the angarkha is worn in Uttarakhand,^[31] Himachal Pradesh,^[32] Maharashtra^[33] and Bengal where the traditional male upper garment is the overlapping and string tied garment.^[34]

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  Gujarati angarkha

• 

  Illustration of a placket, or opening used in an angarkha

Sindhi angerkho

The Sindhi angerkho is fastened to the left shoulder and is knee length. Modern versions can be shorter.

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  Man in Sindhi long angerkho top (1845)

Other related garments

Jhabbho

Another upper garment worn in Gujarat is the jhabbho which is a long robe.^[35] The jhabho is also called the abho which is also worn by women of Rajasthan. The garment is loose, with short, wide sleeves, open at the neck, loose-fitting on the upper part and really flared at the skirt. The abho is often decorated in embroidery and mirror work.^[36]

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  Wedding dress (abho), Memon or Jat, Banni, Kutch, Gujarat, India, late 19th to early 20th century, silk, glass mirrors - DSC00971]]

Saluka

A short sleeve cotton shirt, without a collar,^[37] to the waist (called saluka^[38] or ganji)^[39] is traditionally worn in Uttar Pradesh.^[40] The saluka is also traditionally worn in Madhya Pradesh.^[41]

Sindhi cholo

The female Sindhi cholo^[42][43] is loose fitting,^[44] and is made in a variety of ways, including the traditional method of the cholo opening at the front to the waist,^[45][46] with very wide sleeves.^[47] The traditional cholo can reach down to the ankles.^[48]

See also

• Dashiki
• Tunic
• Jama costume
• Kurta

References