Stefan Glowacz
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| Personal information | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | German | ||||||
| Born |
March 22, 1965 Bavaria, Germany | ||||||
| Retired from competitions | 1993 | ||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||
| Type of climber | Sport climbing, mountaineering | ||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 1 April 2013. | |||||||
Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Bavaria, Germany) is a professional rock climber and adventurer.[1] He started climbing at the age of 15 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges including expeditions to remote places in Canada,[2] Patagonia, Antarctica.
Success in sport climbing
- 1985 Sportroccia
- 1987, 1988, 1992 Rock Master
- Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in Albertville
- 1993 Vice World Champion
Achievements in rock climbing
- 1994 "Des Kaisers neue Kleider" (X+/8b+/5.14a), hardest route in the Alps for at least 9 years
- First ascents of big walls at the "Renard Tower", Antarktis, "Tupilak" and "Ulamartorsuaq" in Eastern resp. Southern Greenland, and "Mount Harrison Smith" in Canada
- 2001 he succeeded to be the first in fulfilling the Trilogy of the three hardest multipitch routes of the Alps (all established in 1994) including "End of silence" (X/8b/5.13d) of Thomas Huber, and "Silbergeier" (X/8b/5.13d) of Beat Kammerlander
- 2006 nominated for the Piolet d'Or for establishing a 27 pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullaron, Patagonia.
Books, Films
- Jäger des Augenblicks
- Richtig Freiklettern
- Rocks around the World
- Hoch hinaus
- Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung, DVD
- The Race, DVD
- On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen (2005, Piper)
- 1991, Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone, (dir. Werner Herzog), DVD
Seven Giants controversy
In winter 2013 the German climber Stefan Glowacz climbed up on one of the pillars of Manpupuner in the Komi Republic, Russia. The local people of Mansi, who used to worship to the pillars however, have considered the greatest sin to rise at their peaks. The pillars have also been recognized as one of the Seven Wonders of Russia and are a protected site threatened by corrosion caused by unauthorized tourists such as the case. [3] [4] [5]
References
- ↑ Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering. Rocky Mountain Books Ltd. pp. 407–. ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
- ↑ George, Caroline (June 27, 2008). "More Details on Baffin's "Long Way Home"". The Alpinist. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
- ↑ "Sacred for Mansi Manpupuner rock formations may fall in the near future". 2013-09-23. Retrieved 24 September 2013.
- ↑ "Немецкий альпинист повредил одно из семи чудес России". 2013-04-21. Retrieved 24 September 2013.
- ↑ "STEFAN GLOWACZ CONQUERS THE SEVEN GIANTS IN SIBERIA". Retrieved 24 September 2013.