Rock Master
Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco.
The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday.
History
The history of Rock Master is linked to that of the first international races in the history of climbing. In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri.
Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.
Since 2006, during the event a jury assigns Arco Rock Legends, two awards are like the Oscars of climbing:
- Salewa Rock Award with the athlete had the best performance of single pitch sport climbs and boulder
- La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.
The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:
- in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals and finals.
- in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011 . The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and attended the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead.[1]
In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.[2]
Winners
Lead
| Year | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| 1987 |  Stefan Glowacz |  Lynn Hill |
| 1988 | Stefan Glowacz Patrick Edlinger | Lynn Hill |
| 1989 | Didier Raboutou | Lynn Hill |
| 1990 | François Legrand | Lynn Hill |
| 1991 |  Yuji Hirayama | Isabelle Patissier |
| 1992 | Stefan Glowacz | Lynn Hill |
| 1993 |  Elie Chevieux | Susi Good |
| 1994 | François Legrand | Robyn Erbesfield |
| 1995 | François Lombard | Laurence Guyon |
| 1996 | François Lombard | Katie Brown |
| 1997 | François Legrand | Katie Brown |
| 1998 | François Legrand | Liv Sansoz |
| 1999 |  Eugeny Ovtchinnikov | .svg.png){kind=small} Muriel Sarkany |
| 2000 | Eugeny Ovtchinnikov | Muriel Sarkany |
| 2001 | Christian Bindhammer Tomáš Mrázek Yuji Hirayama | Muriel Sarkany Martina Cufar |
| 2002 | Alexandre Chabot | Sandrine Levet |
| 2003 | Alexandre Chabot |  Angela Eiter |
| 2004 | Alexandre Chabot | Angela Eiter |
| 2005 |  Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Angela Eiter |
| 2006 | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Sandrine Levet |
| 2007 | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Angela Eiter |
| 2008 | Patxi Usobiaga | Johanna Ernst |
| 2009 | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Angela Eiter |
| 2010 | Ramón Julián Puigblanque |  Jain Kim |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Angela Eiter |
| 2013 | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Mina Markovič |
Bouldering
| Year | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Daniel Andrada | Elena Choumilova |
| 2000 |  Tomasz Oleksy | Natalia Novikova |
| 2001 | Salavat Rakhmetov | Corinne Théroux |
| 2002 |  Mauro Calibani | Ol'ga Jakovleva |
| 2003 | Mauro Calibani | Olga Bibik |
| 2004 | Matthias Müller | Mélanie Son |
| 2005 | Kilian Fischhuber | Mélanie Son |
| 2006 |  Nalle Hukkataival | Anna Stöhr |
| 2007 |  Gareth Parry | Anna Stöhr |
| 2008 | Kilian Fischhuber | Katharina Saurwein |
| 2009 | Kilian Fischhuber | Alizée Dufraisse |
| 2010 | Cédric Lachat | Anna Stöhr |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Dmitrij Šarafutdinov | Alex Puccio |
| 2013 | Rustam Gelmanov | Alex Puccio |
Speed
| Year | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 |  Vladimir Zakharov | |
| 2000 | Alexei Gadeev | |
| 2001 | Iakov Soubotine | |
| 2002 | Tomasz Oleksy | |
| 2003 | Alexei Gadeev | |
| 2004 | Tomasz Oleksy | |
| 2005 | Tomasz Oleksy | |
| 2006 | Sergey Sinitsyn | |
| 2007 | Evgenij Vajcechovskij | |
| 2008 |  Manuel Escobar | Olena Ryepko |
| 2009 | Libor Hroza | Edyta Ropek |
| 2010 | Libor Hroza |  Cuilian He |
| 2011 | - | - |
| 2012 | Leonardo Gontero | Alina Gaydamakina |
| 2013 | Libor Hroza | Alina Gaydamakina |
Duel
| Year | Male | Female |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 | Adam Ondra | Yana Chereshneva |
| 2012 | Jakob Schubert | Dinara Fakhritdinova |
| 2013 |  Sean McColl | Dinara Fakhritdinova |
Arco Rock Legends
| Year | Salewa Rock Award | La Sportiva Competition Award |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 | Josune Bereziartu | Angela Eiter |
| 2007 | Patxi Usobiaga | David Lama |
| 2008 | Adam Ondra | Maja Vidmar |
| 2009 | Chris Sharma | Kilian Fischhuber |
| 2010 | Adam Ondra | Akiyo Noguchi |
| 2011 | Adam Ondra | Ramón Julián Puigblanque |
| 2012 | Sasha DiGiulian | Anna Stöhr |
| 2013 | Adam Ondra | Mina Markovič |
References
- ↑ Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
- ↑ "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
Bibliography
- Malfer, Giulio; Stefanello, Vinicio (2005). Rock Master. Nicolodi. ISBN 978-8884471949.
