Ottoman clothing
Ottoman clothing is the style and design of clothing worn by the Ottoman Turks.
Ottoman period
While the Palace and its court displayed showy clothes, the common people were only concerned with covering themselves. The administrators occasionally brought about legal regulations on clothes (see sumptuary laws). These applications were initiated during the period of Suleiman the Magnificent. In this period men wore outer items such as 'mintan', 'zıbın', 'şalvar' (trousers), 'kuşak', 'potur', 'entari' (a loose coat), 'kalpak', 'sarık' on the head; 'çarık', 'çizme', 'çedik', 'Yemeni' on the feet. The administrators and the wealthy wore caftans with fur lining and embroidery, whereas the middle class wore 'cübbe', 'hırka' and the poor wore collarless 'cepken' or 'yelek' (vest). Bashlyks were the most prominent accessories of social statues. While the people wore "külah's" covered with 'abani' or 'Yemeni', the cream of the society wore bashlyks such as 'yusufi, örfi, katibi, kavaze', etc. During the rule of Süleyman a bashlyk called 'perişani' was popular as the palace people valued bashlyks adorned with precious stones. 'Kavuk', however, was the most common type of bashlyk. For this reason, a related tradesmenship was formed in the 17th century. Fur was a material of prestige in that period. The clothing of Muslims, Christians, Jewish communities, clergy, tradesmen state and military officials were strictly regulated during the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent. Political crises of the 17th century were reflected as chaos in clothes. The excessively luxurious compulsion of consumption and showing off in the Tulip Era lasted till the 19th century. The modernization attempts of Mahmut II in 1825 first had its effects in the state sector. While 'sarık' was replaced by 'fez', the people employed in Bab-ı Ali began to wear trousers, 'setre' and 'potin'.
During the 'Tanzimat' and 'Meşrutiyet' period in the 19th century, the common people still keeping to their traditional clothing styles presented a great contrast with the administrators and the wealthy wearing 'redingot', jacket, waistcoat, boyunbağı (tie), 'mintan', sharp-pointed and high-heeled shoes. Women's clothes of the Ottoman period were observed in the 'mansions' and Palace courts. 'Entari', 'kuşak', 'şalvar', 'başörtü', 'ferace' of the 19th century continued their existence without much change. In the 16th century women wore two-layer long 'entari' and 'tül', velvet shawl on their heads. Their outdoor clothing consisted of 'ferace' and 'yeldirme'. The simplification in the 17th century was apparent in an inner 'entari' worn under short-sleeved, caftan-shaped outfit and the matching accessory was a belt.
Women's wear becoming more showy and extravagant brought about adorned hair buns and tailoring. Tailoring in its real sense began in this period. The sense of women's wear primarily began in large residential centers such as Istanbul and İzmir in the 19th century and as women gradually began to participate in the social life, along with the westernization movement. Pera became the center of fashion and the Paris fashion was followed by the tailors of Greek and Armenian origin. In the period of Abdul Hamid II the use of 'ferace' was replaced by 'çarşaf' of different styles. However, the rural sector continued its traditional style of clothing.
Republican period
The clothing styles prevailing until the mid 19th century imposed by religious reasons entered a transformation phase of the Republican period. In this period the 'şapka' and the following 'kılık kıyafet' reform realized with the leadership of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in Kastamonu in 1925 had a full impact in Istanbul. Women's 'çarşaf' and 'peçe' were replaced by coat, scarf and shawl. Men began to wear hats, jackets, shirts, waistcoats, ties, trousers and shoes. With the industrialization process of the 1960s women entered the work life and tailors were substituted by readymade clothes industry. The contemporary fashion concept, as it is in the whole world, is apparent in both social and economic dimensions in Turkey as well.
Modern use
The concept is conveyed with all its aspects in various educational institutions not only in the field of application but also from the point of design and employees required by the sector are trained. Designers that have been drawing attention with their universal works; Rıfat Özbek, Cemil İpekçi, Vural Gökçaylı, Yıldırım Mayruk, Sadık Kızılağaç, Hakan Elyaban, Bahar Korçan and many more creative personalities have been contributing original and modern works. As the developing Turkish economy owes a lot to textile exports, the general framework deserves a historical outlook on the concepts in question.
Gallery
Religious garb
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A Rabbi (1878)
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Armenian Orthodox Patriarch(1878)
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Greek Orthodox Priest (1878)
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Turkish Muslim alim (1878)
Classical period
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Turkish Peasant (1878)
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Turkish Zeybek (1878)
Decline
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Turkish Man (1878)
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Turkish Woman at home (1878)
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Veiled Turkish Woman (1878)
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Porter (1878)
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Mendicant Dervish (1878)
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Dervish (1878)
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Turkish Boy (1878)
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Turkish Boy (1878)
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Turkish Girl (1878)
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Gypsy Girl (1878)
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Men aboard a ferry (1878)
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Men aboard a ferry (1878)
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Odalisque (1878)
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Woman outdoors (1878)
Folk costumes in 1873
- Vilayet of Constantinople
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1. Burgher from Istanbul
2. Aiwas (servant) -
1. Caikdji (cabman)
2. Sakka (water carrier)
3. Hammal (porter) -
1. Turkish lady from Istanbul
2. Turkish schoolboy -
1. Armenian bride
2. Jewish woman from Istanbul
3. Greek girl
- Vilayet of Adrianople
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1. Muslim inhabitant of Edirne
2. Muslim horseman from Edirne
3. Christian artisan from Edirne -
1. Muslim horseman from Plovdiv
2. Bulgarian woman from Koyountepe
3. Bulgarian woman from Ah'i Tchelebi -
1. Bulgarian woman from Ahi Tchelebi
2. Greek woman from Haskovo
3. Peasant woman from Baidjas
- Vilayet of the Danube
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1: Bulgarian from Sofia
2. Bulgarian woman from Sofia
- Vilayet of Prizren; Vilayet of Scutari
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1: Muslim woman from Prizren
2. Farmers from around Prizren
3. Christian peasant woman from Matefse -
1: Hodja from Shkodër
2. Christian priest from Shkodër -
1: Muslim lady from Shkodër
2. Christian lady from Shkodër
3. Peasant woman from Malissor -
1: Muslim from Shkodër
2. Muslim lady from Shkodër -
1: Christian from Shkodër
2. Christian lady from Shkodër -
1: Shepherd and peasant woman from Malissor
- Vilayet of Janina; Vilayet of Salonica; Vilayet of Bosnia
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1: Wealthy Arnaut from Ioannina
2. Wealthy Arnaut lady from Ioannina
3. Arnaut child of a wealthy family. -
1: Arnaut from Ioannina (middle class)
2. Arnaut from Ioannina (lower class) -
1: Hodja from Thessaloniki
2. Hakham Bashi of Thessaloniki
3. Burgher from Bitola -
1: Muslim lady from Thessaloniki
2. Jewish lady from Thessaloniki
3. Bulgarian woman from Prilep
- Vilayet of Crete
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1. Christian burgher from Chania
2. Christian horseman from Chania
3. Muslim lady from Chania -
1. Female Christian villager from Chania
2. Christian villager from Chania
3. Inhabitant of Sfakia
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1. Muslim Artisan man and woman from Çanakkale
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1. Yorouk woman from Biga
2. Christian woman from Chios
3. Christian woman from Lemnos -
1. Muslim from Rhodes
2. Muslim lady from Rhodes -
1. Jew from Rhodes
2. Jewish woman from Rhodes
- Vilayet of Hudavendigar
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1. Turkmen from around Bursa
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1. Peasant man and woman from around Bursa (wearing wedding clothing)
2. Seis (horse groom) -
1. Jew and Jewish woman from Bursa
- Vilayet of Aydın
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1. Christian merchant from Aydın
2. Haham from Izmir
3. Burgher from Manisa -
1. Muslim lady from Manisa
2. Muslim lady from Izmir
- Vilayet of Konia
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1. Armenian Priest from Konya
2. Mullah from Konya
3. Greek Priest from Konya -
1. Burgher from Konya
2. Greek woman from Burdur
3. Muslim woman from Burdur -
1. Armenian woman from Burdur
2. Turkmen woman from Karie de Outmouk
3. Kurdish woman from Sarıkaya
- Vilayet of Ankara
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1. Muslim Artisan from Ankara
2. Christian Artisan from Ankara
3. Kurd from around Yuzgat -
1. Bashi-bazouk from Ankara
2. Muslim peasant from around Ankara
3. Muslim peasant woman from around Ankara -
1. Kurdish woman from around Yuzgat
2. Female Christian artisan from Ankara
3. Muslim female artisan from Ankara
- Vilayet of Kastamonu
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1. Turkish worker from Kastamonu
2. Peasant from Safranbolu
3. Kurd from Viranşehir
- Vilayet of Sivas
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1. Muslim woman from Sivas
2. Armenian woman from Sivas
3. Kurdish woman from around Sivas
- Vilayet of Trebizond
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1. Muslim lady from Trabzon (indoor dress)
2. The same (outdoor dress)
- Vilayet of Erzerum
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1. Armenian priest from Akhtamar
2. Kurdish horseman from Hakkâri
3. Kurdish piade (foot soldier) from Hakkâri
- Vilayet of Diyarbekir
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1. Muslim from Diyarbakır
2. Christian from Diyarbakır
3. from Palu -
1. Muslim lady from Diyarbakır.
2. Christian lady from Diyarbakır
3. A woman from Palu -
1. Muslim lady from Sa'nt (indoor clothing)
2. The same (outdoor clothing)
3. Turkizh woman from Elâzığ
- Vilayet of Adana; Vilayet of Aleppo
- Vilayet of Syria
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1. Christian inhabitant of Beirut (summer dress)
2. Muslim lady from Beirut
3. Christian lady from Beirut (winter dress) -
1. Muslim from Lebanon
2. Muslim woman from Lebanon -
1. Christian woman from Zahlé (Lebanon)
2. Christian woman from Zgharta (Lebanon)
3. Druze woman from Lebanon -
1. Bedouin from Mount Lebanon.
2. Bedouin woman from Lebanon -
1. Fellah woman from around Damascus
2. Druze woman from around Damascus
3. Lady from Damascus -
1. Christian artisan from Belka
2. Artisan woman from Belka
3. Peasant Muslim woman from around Belka -
1. Shopkeeper from Belka
2. Fellah from around Belka
3. Muslim artisan from Belka -
1. Jew from Jerusalem
2. Jewish woman from Jerusalem -
1. Arab lady from Jerusalem
2. Fellah from around Jerusalem
3. Fellah woman from around Jerusalem
- Vilayets of Baghdad; Hejaz; Yemen; Tripolitania
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1. A'alim from Mecca
2. Inhabitant from Djeaddele (environs of Mecca)
3. Baveri of the guard of the Sharif of Mecca -
1. Kabyle of the Harb tribe (environs of Medina)
2. Kabyle woman of the Harb tribe (environs of Medina)
3. Muslim woman from Djeaddele (environs of Mecca) -
1. A'alim from Al Hudaydah
2. Burgher from Al Hudaydah
3. Muslim lady from Sana'a
See also
References
- Feyzi, Muharrem. Eski Türk Kıyafetleri ve Güzel Giyim Tarzları.
- Koçu, Reşat Ekrem. Türk Giyim Kuşam ve Süslenme Sözlüğü. Ankara: Sümerbank, 1967.
- Küçükerman, Önder. Türk Giyim Sanayinin Tarihi Kaynakları. İstanbul: GSD Dış Ticaret AŞ, 1966.
- Sevin, Nurettin. Onüç Asırlık Türk Kıyafet Tarihine Bir Bakış. Ankara: T.C. Kültür Bakanlığı, 1990.
- Tuğlacı, Pars. Osmanlı Saray Kadınları / The Ottoman Palace Women. Istanbul: Cem Yayınevi,1985.
External links
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