List of ski descents of Eight-Thousanders

Albeit arbitrary, the mountaineering community groups Earth's 14 mountains with summits exceeding 8,000 meters (26,000 feet), referred to as eight-thousanders, as a special category of peaks defining the "top of the world."[1] Only an elite group of mountaineers can claim to have summited all 14 peaks and many have perished trying.[2] (See eight-thousanders for current list.) Particularly since 1978 when Italian expeditionist Reinhold Messner became the first to have climbed all 14 8000m peaks, summiting the eight-thousanders has become the ultimate goal for many high altitude mountaineers.[3] Similarly, the ski-mountaineering community has set its sights on skiing from the summits of the "eight-thousanders." In a 2007 interview for the film Skiing Everest, the Tyrolean mountaineer and skier, Hans Kammerlander articulated the challenge for the ski-mountaineering community: "Almost all peaks have been reached, almost all walls have been climbed. But seldom have the walls been skied down... It would be a lovely project if I could see someone who could ski all 8,000m peaks."[4]

"Skiers" include those using either alpine or telemark equipment or, in two instances, a "mono ski." The category here excludes snowboarders on the premise that the orientation of the skier's body to a slope differs significantly from that of a "boarder" affecting the capacities to negotiate a pitch. A separate entry tracks snowboard descents on 8000 meter peaks (Snowboard Descents From Above 8000m: Database). Even within the category of "skiers" equipment has evolved significantly from the time of Yuichiro Miura's first foray on skis above 8000m in 1970. Big mountain skiers have benefited greatly from incorporation of lighter and stronger composite materials into the manufacture of skis, boots and bindings, reducing the carry weight of their ski gear in addition to similar advances in designs for their other climbing gear and attire. Today's ski-mountaineer has likely shaved 20–25 lb (9.1–11.3 kg).) off their gear packs compared to when, for example, Sylvain Saudan hop turned down the face of Gasherbrum I in 1982, perhaps the first full descent of an 8000 meter peak.[5] The length, width and shape of skis has evolved to facilitate turning and flotation in deeper snow conditions. (Reports for most high altitude descents actually are far more likely to complain of hard, rutted ice than deep snow.[4] Back country skiing whether at altitude or on the lower ranges has also seen the development of "alpine touring" bindings with detached and fixed heel configurations for use in both upslope (in the "walk" configuration) and downslope (in the "fixed-heel" configuration).

Mountaineers apply rigorous standards to define an "ascent" and its "purity." The use of oxygen, for example, is vigorously debated, and it has become practice for trip reports to distinguish ascents supported by oxygen (O2)from those foregoing O2 use.[3] But for mountaineers at least the basic standard of attaining a summit with safe return is fairly absolute, the issue of documentation aside. Debate over use of 02, amount of assistance from Sherpas, line of ascent and other nits are qualifiers to the purity of the ascent. In ski mountaineering, the added dimension of the purity of the descent further muddies the standards at this time. Is the top the highest elevation of the snow line or is it the geological summit? Does a descent need to be continuous and what is the consideration for terrain in the middle of the mountain that is "un-skiable?" Does it matter if the skis come off during some portion of the descent to abseil a portion? While the standards of a mountaineering ascent still apply (including notation of O2 use), skiing, and the vagaries of "skiable" terrain add numerous variables to evaluating the purity of a descent.[6] Any database of ski descents is therefore likely to include heterogenous data.

Of the fourteen 8000 m peaks, clearly some peaks are more skiable than others as reflected in the number of descents to date (see below). Everest, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, GasherBrum II and Shisha Pangma have all seen more than 5 expeditions ski from above 8000 m. On the other hand, there are no reported ski descents from above 8000 m on Kangchenjunga, Makalu and Broad. Dhaulagiri and Nanga Parbat have been conquered by only one expedition each. Jamie Laidlaw made the lone descent on Lhotse but not from the summit; Hans Kammerlander skied the top 400 meters of K2 but no further.

Some Firsts:

Notes on compiling this database of high altitude skiers: The 8000 meter ski database includes ski descents using alpine, telemark or mono ski equipment from above 8000m. It does not include snowboard descents. In addition to the entrant’s name and peak identification, each entry details the estimated highest and lowest skied elevations, the route, use of oxygen, ski method and other very brief notes on the descent. A single reference for each entry is noted although often multiple sources are available. Notation: "c"=camp; "bc"=base camp; "abc"=advanced base camp; "m"=meter.

EVEREST - NEPAL/CHINA - 8850 meters [13]

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Hans KammerlanderITA19968848N. facefrom top 300m, 1000m by foot, ski to abc.[12] NO39
Davo KarničarSLO20008848S. col1st summit to bc ski descent without removing skis, 4h:40min[8] YES37
Kit DesLauriersUSA20068848S. col1st woman to ski off summit[8] YES36
Jimmy ChinUSA20068848S. colabseiled hillary skis on; hike to 200m above s.col; ski to col; night at 7800; lhotse face to abc[8] YES33
Rob DeslauriersUSA20068848S. colabseiled hillary skis on; hike to s.col; night at 7800; lhotse face to abc[8] YES41
Olof SundstromSWE20068848N. ridgeto abc (6400), removed skis for several sections[8] YES25
Martin LetzerSWE20068848N. ridgeto abc (6400), removed skis for several sections[8] YES25
Tormod GranheimNOR20068848Nortonto 8800; 8750 to 8500; 8480 to 7100 camped overnight; to 6500m[8] YES31
Tomas OlssonSWE20068848Nortondied from fall at 8500[8] YES30
Pierre TardivelFRA19928760S. colto c2. world altitude record at time[14] YES28
Dominique PerretSUI1996?8300N. faceHornblein couloir, n. face[15] NO34
Jean AfanassieffFRA19788200S. colto 6200 "not in one smooth run"[8][16] YES25
Nicolas JaegerFRA19788200S. colto 6200 "not in one smooth run"[8][16] YES31
Reinhard PatschneiderITA19878200lhotse face from S. colfell dislocated shoulder[8] YES30
Brice LequertierFRA20038200S. colto 6100[8] ?26
Yuichiro MiuraJPN19708082S. col5-6 turns to S. Col, then wore parachute in schuss to ~6200, ended with fall[7] YES37

K2- PAKISTAN - 8611 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Hans KammerlanderITA20018611Abruzziskied top 400m, climbed rest of route due to conditions and pitch[8] NO44
David WatsonUSA20098351Abruzziskied to c3 (7351), downclimbed pyramid and chimney, skied 6400 to 5100[17] YES34

KANGCHENJUNGA - NEPAL - 8586 meters

No ski descents from above 8000 meters

LHOTSE - NEPAL - 8516 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Jamie LaidlawUSA20078300Faceto 6400 at night[8] YES27

MAKALU - NEPAL - 8586

No ski descents from above 8000 meters

CHO OYU - NEPAL - 8188 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Veronique PerillatFRA19888188NW sidemonoski, first woman from 8000m[18] NO26
Adrian BallingerUSA20138188NW sidecontinuous to C1, no snow below C1; 10m roped skiing at icecliff[19] YES37
Sergey BaranovRUS20138188NW sidecontinuous to C1, no snow below C1; 10m roped skiing at icecliff[19] YES44
Halvard StaveNOR20018188NW sideto rock band at 7800; c3 to c2; fell 300m but ok[8] YES25
Thierry RenardFRA19878188NW sideto 6200 - descent disputed[8] NO41
Russell Reginald BriceNZL19968188W. ridge -W. faceto 7500[8] YES44
Hajime TerayamaJPN20008188NW sideto 7400[8] YES33
Laura BakosUSA20008188NW sideto 6600 w/ overnight at camp 3[8] NO32
Vladimir SmrzSUI20008188NW sideto c2, removed skis at yellow band[8] NO35
Vladislav TerzyulUKR20008188NW sideto c2; side stepped certain rock bands[8] NO47
Viki GroseljSLO20018188NW sidetop to c1, overnight at c2; no snow below c1[8] NO49
Kristoffer EricksonUSA20018188NW sideto c3(7500)[20] YES28
Kazuka HiraideJPN20018188NW sideto c3(7500)[8] NO22
Thomas LaemmleGER20038188NW sideto rock band 7800; 7600 to serac (6800); 6750 to snow end (6000)[8] NO37
Wilhemus PasquierSUI20038188NW sideto C1 (6400)[8] NO54
Greg NieuwenhuysNED20048188NW sideto 8000, overnight at c3 (7500), ski c3/c2 and 6750/6400[8] NO24
Takashi NizayamaJPN20048188NW sideskinned up from 8000; skied from summit to 8000[8] YES43
Tomas OlssonSWE20048188NW sidecontinuous to c1 (6400)[8] NO28
Tormod GranheimNOR20048188NW sidecontinuous to c1 (6400)[8] NO30
Martin Walter SchmidtNZL20048188NW sidecontinuous to c1 (6400)[8] NO44
Todd Cavell WindleNZL20048188NW sideto 7800[8] YES30
Jean Noel UrbanFRA20058188NW sidecontinuous to c2(6750)[8] NO45
Kasha RigbyUSA20058188NW sideto abc (5700) with overnight at c2; 1st telemark descent[8] YES35
Hilaree O'NeillUSA20058188NW sideto abc with overnight at c2[8] YES32
Kenton Edward CoolGBR20068188NW Sideto abc (abseiled icefall c2-c1)[8] YES33
Dusan DebelakSLO20068188NW sideto c2 (6750)[8] NO40
Octavio DeFazioARG20068188NW sideto c1 (6400) (except 10m ice cliff)[8] YES36
Martina PalmSUI20068188NW sideto c1 (6400) (except 10m ice cliff)[8] YES32
Steve MaroltUSA20078188NW sideto c1 (6600)[8][21] NO42
Medhi DidaultFRA20078188NW sideto c1 (6600)[8] NO22
Tyler JohnsonUSA20078188NW sideto abc (5700) with overnight at c2[8] NO31
Rory StarkUSA20078188NWsideto abc (5700) with overnight at c2[8] NO36
James GileUSA20078150NW sideto c1(6600)[8] NO43
Michael AasheimUSA20058100NW Sideskied to abc (5700) (thru icefall)[8] NO43
Daniel McCannUSA20058100NW sideskied to abc (5700) (thru icefall)[8] NO43
Mike MaroltUSA20078100NW sideto c1 (6600)[21] NO42
Suzy MadgeGBR20088188NWsideto above c2 where rescued a lone mountaineer[22]YES35
Fabio BeozziITA20118100NW sideto 6000 (thru Messner Route, 1st ski descent)[8]NO37
Jose Diogo Giraldes TavaresPOR20118050NW sideto ABC (5700) with overnight at c2 (7100)[8] NO44

DHAULAGIRI - NEPAL - 8167 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Tunc FindicTUR20098147NE Ridgedownclimbed 7300-6700 (ice)[8] NO37
David FojtikCZE20098147NE Ridge20m below summit couloir to 30m above C3 (7200);C2 (6700) to BC (4700)[8] NO36

MANASLU - NEPAL - 8163 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Benedikt BohmGER20128163NE Faceto bc (5000); skis off 7400-7300[23] NO35
Adrian BallingerUSA20118163NE Faceskied summit cornice from top, skis off 6100 to 5800 on descent from summit due to avalanche, 6100-5800 (hourglass) skied on previous day[24] YES34
Sergey BaranoveRUS20118148NE Faceskis off 6100 to 5800 "hourglass"[25] YES
Guy WilletGBR20098148NE Facedownclimbed 1st 15m, skied to 5050 w/ 5m downclimb @6250[26] YES38
Robert KayUSA/AUST20118148NE Facedownclimbed 1st 15m, skied to 7400 and 5800 to 5000 (crampon point)[27] YES49
Emma JackGBR20098148NE Face Skied to 5000m where snow ran out w/ short downclimb @ 6250m[28] YES36
Kenton CoolGBR20108148NE Faceto C2 (6400)/ 2 days[29] YES37
Andrew EgglestonGBR20108148NE Faceto C2 (6400)/ 2 days[29] YES30
Josef MillingerAUT19818133NE Faceskied from about 30m below summit to c5; then to c1 next day[30] NO39
Peter WoergoetterAUT19818133NE Faceskied from about 30m below summit to c5; then to c1 next day[30] NO39
Nobukazu KurikiJPN20088133NE Faceto c3 (6900) then to bc next day (4800)[8] NO26
Sebastian HaagGER20128003NE Faceto basecamp (5000) with skis off 7400-7300[23]NO34
Constantin Pade20128003NE Faceto basecamp (5000) with skis off 7400-7300[23]NO
Andres Jorquera TaipaCHI20098000NE Faceto 5000 (crampon pt) over 3 days[8] NO33

NANGA PARBAT - PAKISTAN - 8126 meters

SkierName Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Hans KammerlanderITA19908025Diamir face (Kinshofer)downclimb top 100m, ski to bc[31] NO34
Diego WelligSUI19908025Diamir face (Kinshofer)downclimb 1st 100m, ski to bc[31] NO29

ANNAPURNA - NEPAL - 8093 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Yves MorinFRA19798091N Faceskied all sections but died at 6600 on descent from summit[8] NO34
Davo KarničarSLO19958091normal route1st descent from top to bc in one day - hawley notes suggest started 1200m below top?[8] NO32
Andrej KarnicarSLO19958091normal route1st descent from top to bc in one day[8] NO25

GASHERBRUM I (HIDDEN PEAK) - PAKISTAN - 8080 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Sylvain SaudanSUI19828080N. Facelongest 50 degree slope ever skied? Age 42[10] NO42
Iztok TomazinSLO19958080N. FaceOvernight at c3, Abseiled 8m section in Japanese couloir, to 5300[32] NO45

BROAD PEAK - PAKISTAN - 8051 meter

No descents from above 8000 meters

GASHERBRUM II - PAKISTAN - 8034 meters

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Jacques DemarolleFRA19848034SW Ridgeskied summit to c4 (7500)[33]
Frederic MaurelFRA19848034SW Ridgeskied summit to c4 (7500)[33]
P. GlaizesFRA19848034SW Ridgeskied summit to c4 (7500)[33]
P. GueduFRA19848034SW Ridgeskied summit to c4 (7500)[33]
Wilhemus PasquierSUI19848034SW Ridgesummit to bc (5200) over 3 days all on ski including 10m serac repel[33] 35
Patrice BournatFRA19848034SW Ridgesummit to bc (5200) over 3 days all on ski including 10m serac repel[33]
Thierry RenardFRA19858034South Facebivouaced at 7500, skied to c1 (5400) next day.[34] 42
Fredrik EricssonSWE20058034East Faceto c3 (7000m)[35] NO30
Jorgen AamotNOR20058034East Faceto c3 (7000m)[36] NO31
Jean Noel UrbanFRA20068034SW RidgeNO46
Louis StizingerGER20068034SW Ridge17hr ABC to ABC (5900m); skied entire descent[37] 39
Benedikt BohmGER20068034SW Ridgesummit to c3[37] NO29
Sebastian HaagGER20068034SW Ridgesummit to c3[37] NO28
Benedikt BohmGER20068034SW Ridge17hr ABC to ABC (5900m); skied entire descent[37] NO29
Sebastian HaagGER20068034SW Ridge17hr ABC to ABC (5900m); skied entire descent[37] NO28

SHISHA PANGMA - CHINA - 8027 meter

Skier Name Nationality Date Start Altitude (meters) Descent Route Notes O2 Age
Peter WoergoetterAUT19858027NE Faceuncertain if descended from main or central summit[38] 44
Oswald GasslerAUT19858027NE Faceuncertain if descended from main or central summit[38] 38
Mark WhetuNZL19878027Northern routeAAJ'88/279 suggests whetu from summit[39] 28
Jean Noel UrbanFRA20058027SW Face - scott rtemain summit partial descent[40] NO45
Giorgio DaidolaITA19888027Northern Route[41] NO
Pino NegriITA19888027Northern Route[41]
Mike MaroltUSA20008008Northern Routecentral summit; 1st N. Am. to ski from 8000m[42]NO36
Steve MaroltUSA20008008Northern routecentral summit; 1st N. Am. to ski from 8000m[42]NO36
Fredrik EricssonSWE20048008central summit[43] NO29
Jean Noel UrbanFRA20048008SW Face - Loretan rtecentral summit partial descent[40]NO44
Mark NewcombUSA20058008Untschcentral summit[44]NO38
Kent McBrideUSA20058008Untschcentral summit[45]NO
Jerzy KukuczkaPOL1987~8000Northern Routefrom bivac at around 8000m, partial descent[39] NO39

See also

References

For the eight Nepalese peaks, the Himalayan Database from Hawley and Salisbury is the best single reference, particularly because Elizabeth Hawley et al. often interviewed the teams and solicited trip reports enabling some verification of the claims.[8] Nevertheless searching the Himalayan Database on “skiing/snowboarding” still occasionally omits expeditions who reported ski descents in their expedition notes but for some reason are not categorized under skiing/snowboarding or in several instances simply omit discussing skiing altogether in the database report. It is probably the case that information from many years ago, while admirably back filled by Hawley, focused on ascents without reference to descent by skis. For the Pakistani peaks sources include web references, the American Alpine Journal and other expedition accounts. Similar sources are referenced for Shisha Pangma in China. Little or no attempt has been made to verify claims. Disputed claims are noted in the notes. It is hoped that by publishing this preliminary database, alpinists and others will correct, update and fill out what can only be considered a preliminary attempt to accurately catalogue skiing above 8000m.

  1. Club, Richard Sale & John Cleare; colour origination by Saxon Photolitho (2000). Climbing the world's 14 highest mountains: the history of the 8,000-meter peaks. Seattle (WA): The Mountaineers. ISBN 0898867274.
  2. "Climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders".
  3. 3.0 3.1 Molenaar, Maurice Isserman and Stewart Weaver; with maps and peak sketches by Dee (2008). Fallen giants: a history of Himalayan mountaineering from the age of empire to the age of extremes. New Haven: Yale University Press. ISBN 9780300115017.
  4. 4.0 4.1 [Skiing Everest] Directors: Les Guthman and Mike Marolt, 2009
  5. Mehlman, Ham (2009). "Mike and Steve Marolt - Getting High on Skiis". unpublished.
  6. Dawson, Louis. "Wild Snow". Excellent discussion of "purity" in back country skiing ascent/descents.
  7. 7.0 7.1 Perlman, Yuichiro Miura, with Eric (1978). The man who skied down Everest (1st ed. ed.). San Francisco: Harper & Row. ISBN 0062505750.
  8. 8.0 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6 8.7 8.8 8.9 8.10 8.11 8.12 8.13 8.14 8.15 8.16 8.17 8.18 8.19 8.20 8.21 8.22 8.23 8.24 8.25 8.26 8.27 8.28 8.29 8.30 8.31 8.32 8.33 8.34 8.35 8.36 8.37 8.38 8.39 8.40 8.41 8.42 8.43 8.44 8.45 8.46 8.47 8.48 8.49 8.50 8.51 8.52 8.53 8.54 8.55 8.56 Salisbury, Richard (2004). The Himalayan database the expedition archives of Elizabeth Hawley. Golden, Colo.: American Alphine Club Press. ISBN 0930410998.
  9. "Manaslu, Northeast Face". American Alpine Journal: 226. 1982.
  10. 10.0 10.1 Macaigne, Pierre (1983). Le Skier de L'Impossible - Sylvain Saudan - Victoire A ski sur l'Himalaya:8068m. Paris: Publi SA - Éditions Pierre-Marcel Favre. ISBN 2828901297.
  11. Hawley, Elizabeth (1989). American Alpine Journal: 283. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  12. 12.0 12.1 "Kammerlander".
  13. "Geographical facts of the Main 8000ers". "Altitude of the Nepalese mountains are taken from the Finnmaps and for the Karakoram mountains they are from the Chinese snow map. The altitude of Shisha Pangma was taken from the Austrian Alpine Club map.
  14. Tardivel, Pierre (1997). Memoires de Pleine Pente. Paris: Publialp. ISBN 2950630774.
  15. "Everest 1996".
  16. 16.0 16.1 American Alpine Journal. 1979. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  17. Watson, David. "K2 2009".
  18. American Alpine Journal: 283. 1989. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  19. 19.0 19.1 Campbell, Jordan (13 October 2013). "Marmot Athlete Adrian Ballinger Guides Complete Ski Descent of 8000-meter Peak: Cho Oyu". SNews. Retrieved 24 September 2014.
  20. American Alpine Journal: 417. 2003. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  21. 21.0 21.1 Paumgarten, Nick (2010-09-08). "Twin Freaks". Outside.
  22. 23.0 23.1 23.2 Spring, Joe (2012-10-10). "Benedikt Böhm Climbs and Skis Manaslu in Less Than 24 Hours". Outside Online.
  23. "Ballinger".
  24. "Baranove".
  25. "Willet".
  26. "Altitude Junkies".
  27. "Jack".
  28. 29.0 29.1 "British Mountain Club".
  29. 30.0 30.1 American Alpine Journal: 226. 1982. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  30. 31.0 31.1 American Alpine Journal: 277. 1991. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  31. Golub, Janez (1996). American Alpine Journal: 290. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  32. 33.0 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 Croisot, Daniel (1985). "Gasherbrum II, Ski Descent". American Alpine Journal: 311.
  33. American Alpine Journal: 273–274. 1986. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  34. Adventures Gasherbrum II. "Gasherbrum II".
  35. "Adventures Gasherbrum II".
  36. 37.0 37.1 37.2 37.3 37.4 "Gasherbrum II".
  37. 38.0 38.1 American Alpine Journal: 299. 1986. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  38. 39.0 39.1 http://www.sport.pl/sport/1,65025,14706836,Andrzej_Bargiel_zjechal_na_nartach_z_Sziszapangmy.html
  39. 40.0 40.1 "Urban".
  40. 41.0 41.1 American Alpine Journal: 287. 1989. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  41. 42.0 42.1 (personal communication from Mike Marolt)
  42. "Shisha Pangma".
  43. The Line: A journey to the Far Fringe of Skiing produced by Marmot
  44. The Line: A journey to the Far Fringe of Skiing produced by Marmot