L'Wren Scott

L'Wren Scott

L'Wren Scott, wearing one of her designs. Photo by Andrew Crowley, for The Telegraph
Born Laura "Luann" Bambrough (named by adoptive parents)
April 28, 1964
Salt Lake City, Utah, U.S.
Died March 17, 2014 (aged 49)
New York, New York, U.S.
Cause of death
Suicide by hanging
Nationality American
Occupation Model, fashion designer, stylist
Home town Roy, Utah, U.S.
Height 6 ft 3 in (1.91 m)
Spouse(s) Andrew Ladsky (m. 1990–93)
Andrew Brand (m. 1993–97)
Partner(s) Mick Jagger (2001–2014; her death)

Laura "Luann" Bambrough (April 28, 1964 – March 17, 2014), known professionally as L'Wren Scott,[1][2] was an American stylist and fashion designer.

Exceptionally tall as a child, Scott had to make her own clothes from the age of twelve. She first gained recognition as a top photographers’ model in Paris, before moving to California and styling movie stars such as Madonna and Julia Roberts. In 2006, she launched the first of her fashion collections, characterised by sumptuous femininity combined with unconventional touches, aimed at establishing a well-defined silhouette. She issued regular tips on etiquette, known as "L'Wrenisms", and extended her range into shoes, handbags, glasses, makeup and perfume. In 2013, she collaborated with Banana Republic on a line of affordable ready-to-wear holiday items.

Scott’s longest relationship was with Rolling Stones' Mick Jagger, whom she met around 2001. Following a period of depression, Scott was found dead at her apartment in Chelsea, Manhattan, aged 49. The cause of death was found to be suicide by hanging.

Early life and education

Scott was named Laura Bambrough by her Mormon adoptive parents, Ivan and Lula Bambrough, who raised her in Roy, Utah, with two siblings, Jan and Randall, also adoptees. Laura was soon nicknamed "Luann".[3][4][5] Known for her tall frame, she had already reached 6 ft 0 in (1.83 m) in height by the age of twelve, and would eventually grow to 6 ft 3 in (1.91 m).[3] Because of her height, she had to sew her own clothes. She learned clothing construction, and fabric quality starting at the age of twelve.

[6] Luann Bambrough graduated from Roy High School in 1982.[7]

Career

L'Wren Scott's career moved from model, stylist, to fashion designer. There are two versions of how she got her start. The first has her at age 16, being spotted by photographer Bruce Weber, when he came to Utah on a photo shoot. He advised her to go to Paris. It is said that a year later she flew to Europe on a one-way ticket, after telling her parents she was going to New York.[8] The second indicates that Scott moved to Los Angeles a year-and-a-half after graduating high school, where she was spotted by a scout with agency ties in Paris, where she became, "L'Wren."[9] Working with Paris-based agencies, Glamour and Marilyn Gauthier, she went on to work for Thierry Mugler and Chanel, Helmut Newton, as well as model for photographers as Guy Bourdin, David Bailey and Jean-Paul Goude.[10] Her first commercial success was as the legs on a clock for the Pretty Polly hosiery ads, with photographs taken by David Bailey.[11]

Stylist

L'Wren Scott with Elizabeth Taylor and Herb Ritts

Scott moved to California in the early 1990s and established herself as a stylist, initially in collaboration with photographer Herb Ritts, and later with Helmut Newton, Karl Lagerfeld and Mario Sorrenti. One of her early assignments was an ad campaign for Elizabeth Taylor's White Diamonds, eventually the world's top-selling celebrity fragrance.[12]

In 2009, she contributed designs for Madonna to wear in her photo shoot with model Jesus Luz for W Magazine and in 2011, Scott styled actress Julia Roberts for a W Magazine[13] shoot, alongside Tom Hanks. She designed costumes for such films as Diabolique (1996 remake), Ocean's Thirteen, Eyes Wide Shut, as well as Shine a Light, a documentary by Martin Scorsese about The Rolling Stones, with Mick Jagger, with whom she had been romantically linked since 2001.[14]

Designer

L'Wren Scott logo

As L’Wren told Vogue in 2009, “I trusted my instincts and stuck to what I believed in.”[15] L'Wren Scott designed clothing, makeup, perfume, handbags, shoes, and eyeglasses.[16]

Silhouette

From the L'Wren Scott "Madame DuBarry" Collection, Spring 2010

"I like a very sexy silhouette, and I like to feel like when you put something on, you zip yourself into it, and you're secure in there." Net-A-Porter described Scott's designs as "seductive, old-world feel: super-feminine silhouettes; rigorous cuts; nipped-in waists; pencil skirts, high-collared blouses; elegant, long-sleeved dresses."[17]

Scott was well known for her attention to the details. Described as "luxury dressing," Scott was a hands-on designer, sourcing, often cutting patterns, sewing, and fitting many of the clothes herself.[18] Her designs were form fitting, flattering, feminine, empowering, luxurious, but also rock-star edgy, favoring silk jacquards, woven tweeds, lightweight wools, and hand-embellished fabrics. They were extravagant, sumptuous, though not frothy, or fussy. She was especially well known for her embroidered and sequin-embellished sweaters. In an interview in Harper's, Scott indicated that she dresses for men, and when asking men the opinions about pieces, they gravitated toward the dresses and jackets that had an emphasis on the waist. Hence, all of her jackets, skirts, and dresses have an hourglass silhouette with a well-defined waist. Her clothes were ultra feminine, though lacking in pretension. They were an extension of herself—elegant, refined, exciting, bold, and eye catching.[19] This silhouette worked for a wide range of women, including those with full figures. Actor Christina Hendricks told Justine Piccardie in The Telegraph: "L'Wren's clothes make you feel like a sexy pin-up, a sophisticated lady and a rockstar all at once. She designs for how women want to look and for what men want to look at."[3]

"L'Wrenisms"

As a designer, she had developed what her followers called, "L'Wrenisms,' which were style tips. As quoted in the Sunday Times Style Magazine, they are an eccentric mix of opinions and practical tips. These included:

Inspiration

In a backstage interview with Fashion Director Harriet Mays Powell of NY Magazine, she describes her design process. She starts with color, then designs fabrics, and then designs the clothes. Her inspiration was found in nature and in things around her.[21] Several collections, most especially her Madame DuBarry (SS 2011), as well as the inclusion of peony shirts, scarf, and pants in her Banana Republic collection reflect this nature-based inspiration.[21][22][23]

In a "Love Gold" video, other inspirations were noted by her as travel, art, and a love of reading, and always being aware of her surroundings.[24] Her collection "Allegory of Love" was rich with 24k gold leaf, and inspired by Gustav Klimt's obsession with his muse and lover, Adele [Bloch] Bauer, best known in his painting, "The Kiss."[24][25]

Collaborations and Collections

In 2006, L'Wren Scott launched her first collection "Little Black Dress."[16] The collection presented wearable, versatile black dresses, including her now famous "Headmistress" dress worn by Madonna.

Scott's creations were seen often on the red carpet. Sarah Jessica Parker, Angelina Jolie, Nicole Kidman,[26] Penélope Cruz and Amy Adams have all worn Scott's dresses to the Academy Awards. "As a designer, I absolutely take into consideration that they are going to feel great, be comfortable and secure, and look good from every angle," said Scott in an interview with Net-A-Porter.[17]

In addition, First Lady Michelle Obama favors L'Wren Scott's designs, most notably embellished cardigan sweaters.[27] The former First Lady of France, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, wore Scott's designs, as did Naomi Campbell, Marion Cotillard, Reese Witherspoon, Christina Hendricks, Jennifer Lopez, Sandra Bullock and Uma Thurman.[28]

She dressed a range of sizes and shapes. Actor Sarah Jessica Parker, said in 'Vogue, “The fundamental arc is simple: She loves a woman's figure. It doesn't matter if I'm five four and L'Wren is six-three—from one of her silk, cap-sleeved T-shirts to her naughty-teacher dress or her rock-'n'-roll, Little Lord Fauntleroy jackets, it's all built for a woman's body. The height issue is tossed out the window.” [6]

In 2010, Scott collaborated with Lancôme to create a capsule collection for the 2010 holiday season[29] featuring a lipstick in Scott's signature bordeaux color. The campaign was shot by photographer Mario Testino and featured model Daria Werbowy wearing an outfit designed by Scott.

May 2011 saw the launch of Scott's first collection of handbags, named "Lula" after her Mother, who Scott reported had "fantastic style." [30][31] The line was launched at Barneys New York, with a personal appearance by Scott.[32][33] Of her work, Scott said, "I'm just into creating things that are sustainable luxury, things that will stay in you closet, that you can always rely on, things that last."[34]

In 2012, L'Wren Scott launched her eponymous scent sold exclusively at Barney's. The scent is an eau de parfum priced at $195 for 3.4 oz. At the launch, she said about scent, “I don’t think they should wear you, just enhance who you are.”[35]

She also launched an eyewear line the same year. The collection debuted at Vision Expo East, and was a collaborative partnership with the German-based Menrad Group.[16][36][37]

Her fashion shows featuring The L'Wren Scott Collection were much anticipated during fashion week, in part because of the celebrities who came, including her partner Mick Jagger, but also the sumptuous décor with flowers, and the lunch she served during the show. Her wish to treat people to lunch, and service came about during her years of working the shows, and knowing how exhausting they could be.[19] André Leon Talley described her shows] as "Symphonic moments of beauty and style." [38]

The L'Wren Scott collections were:

In February 2014, the London Fashion Week showing of her fall 2014 collection was canceled, citing delays in production.[40] It was announced that the collection would be revealed via social media, and be presented in her Paris showroom to editors and retail buyers in March.[40][41]

The L'Wren Scott Collection for Banana Republic

In 2013, Scott collaborated with Banana Republic with an exclusive holiday collection including apparel and accessories for women.[42] The collection was her first foray into an affordable line of ready-to-wear, and included everything from scarves, jeans, purses, sweaters, pajamas, and cocktail dresses.[43] “It's about bringing what I do to a new audience,” says Scott, whose namesake line, which launched in 2006, starts at around $1,000. Scott describes the Banana Republic collection ($16.50 to $198) as “feminine, sexy, rock-and-roll ... and a little bit sparkly, too.”[44] The collection was launched on December 5, with an opening attended by celebrities dressed in the clothing.[45][46] Her last interview] was given during this time, describing the collection. Mick Jagger was also interviewed in support.[47]

She collaborated with celebrated makeup artist and brand Bobbi Brown to create "Bobbi loves L'Wren" Amnesia Rose palette of lip glosses, eye shadows and cheek color. The palette was inspired by Amnesia Roses, which Scott grew at her home in the Loire Valley, in France. The palette debuted at her 2014 Spring collection runway show at London Fashion Week. The palette sold for $68 at major retailers, and Sephora. "We both love fantasy, we love to create things, but we are both a stickler for details," said Brown, describing her friendship and collaboration with Scott.[48]

In 2013, she also designed a limited edition bottle for Caudalie's Beauty Elixir.[49]

Rolling Stones

Mick Jagger wearing a L'Wren Scott design on tour with the Rolling Stones

L'Wren Scott collaborated with Mick Jagger the designs for his costumes for the Rolling Stones tours. The range included a gorilla coat covered in ostrich feathers, a green jacket that Scott dubbed "Glamouflage," a black jacked adorned with butterflies, an embroidered gold jacked inspired by Gustav Klimt. The costumes were detailed, glamorous, and well planned to fit the theme of the various shows and venues. "I got to wear all the clothes we made, which was fun from our point of view — just switching around all the outfits every night in different places," said Jagger, to Women's Wear Daily.[50]

On working with friends, Scott told WWD: “The fact that you're close with someone or friends with them can be good and bad. It's good that you know their comfort levels, and how far you can push. But, at the same time, you need to avoid having too many emotions and feelings because you have to listen very carefully to their ideas. You have to make sure that your creation, your vision [is in tune with theirs],” she says. “Mick really has his own style, and he is quite opinionated about how he wants to look. At the end of the day, [the performer] has to feel good in it. It's not you or I dancing and prancing out there.” [50] [51]

Personal Life: Relationships

Marriages

L'Wren Scott was married twice, for short periods of time. From 1990 - 1993 as "Lauren Scott," she was married to British property developer Andrew Ladsky. In 1993, one month after her divorce from Ladsky, she married Andrew Brand, manager of a Prada franchise in Beverly Hills. The marriage lasted only 9 months. The divorce was finalized in 1997.[9]

Longtime Companion

Her longest relationship was with Rolling Stones' Mick Jagger, whom she met around 2001. They didn't have children of their own. However, in 2010, Scott told the Sunday Times: "I have seven wonderful sort-of children in my life, by default. I have four fabulous grandchildren. I feel that being a product of adoption is a wonderful thing, and at the moment my life is saturated with children. My family life is a high priority." [52] The couple lived in London, NYC, France, and Mustique.[53] Scott's family members have divided opinions regarding Mick Jagger's relationship with their sister [54]

Family

L'Wren was close to her late parents, Ivan and Lula, and her brother Randall Bambrough. He is a tech executive, who was brought on to her company as Financial Director of LS Fashions, Limited (registered in the UK) in October 2013.[55][56][57]

Death

After a long period of depression, Scott was found dead by her assistant at her apartment in Chelsea, Manhattan on March 17, 2014 when she discovered L'Wren hanging by the door handle with a scarf wound around her neck. The police reported that no note was found and there was no sign of foul play. The New York City Chief Medical Examiner determined Scott's manner and cause of death to be suicide by hanging. She was 49.[58][59]

Upon learning of her death Mick Jagger wrote on his website and on his official Facebook page: "I am still struggling to understand how my lover and best friend could end her life in this tragic way. We spent many wonderful years together and had made a great life for ourselves. She had great presence and her talent was much admired, not least by me. I have been touched by the tributes that people have paid to her, and also the personal messages of support that I have received. I will never forget her." [60]

A memorial in Utah on April 12, 2014 was led by her brother Randall Bambrough. Bambrough urged people to remember L'Wren "As a wonderful terrific person who was highly talented and had a very large heart and brought the best out in people.” [61][62][63][64][65] Her estranged, adoptive sister Jan Shane was also in attendance.[66] L'Wren Scott's ashes were buried next to her parents, Ivan and Lula Bambrough, near the family home in Ogden, Utah.[67] A final memorial was held for her friends on May 2, 2014, led by Jagger and Randall Bambrough in New York City.[68]

Legacy

In January 2015, it was announced that Mick Jagger created a three-year scholarship fund in her name for fashion design students at the London-based school, Central Saint Martins. The scholarship, which will begin in October 2015 will cover all the fees for one student each year, over the course of three years (through 2017). While Scott did not go to fashion design school and was self-taught, she was friendly with the late head of the school's M.A. course director, Louise Wilson. They had met at the British Fashion Awards.[69][70]

In the weeks following her death, both her Banana Republic collection, and her higher-priced line at Barneys were in demand and sold out.[71] While the Banana Republic line offered a glimpse of how popular her designs could be at a more affordable price to the masses, it is unknown whether the potential will be realized, or if the company will continue on. As of December 2014, her website was still up, a repository of her collections, videos of fashion shows, and press clippings.[16]

She left her entire estate, estimated at about US$9 million, to her longtime companion, Mick Jagger.[72]

See also

References

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External links