Falernian wine

Falernian wine (Latin: Falernum) was produced from Aglianico grapes (and quite possibly Greco as well)^[1] on the slopes of Mt. Falernus near the border of Latium and Campania, where it became the most renowned wine produced in ancient Rome. Considered a "first growth"^[2] or "cult wine"^[3] for its time, it was often mentioned in Roman literature, but has since disappeared. There were three vineyards (or appellations) recognized by Romans:^[4] Caucinian Falernian from the vineyards on the highest slopes of Mount Falernus; Faustian Falernian, the most famous, from land on the central slopes corresponding to the current hilly areas of the town of Falciano del Massico and Carinola di Casanova, owned by Faustus, son of the Roman dictator Sulla; and wine from the lower slopes and plain that was simply called Falernian. The area is now occupied by the modern day vineyards of Rocca di Mondragone and Monte Massico.

Characteristics

Falernian was a white wine with a relatively high alcohol content, possibly 30 proof, or 15% ABV. In describing Faustian Falernian, Pliny the Elder alluded to this as he noted "It is the only wine that takes light when a flame is applied to it".^[5] It was produced from late-harvested grapes exclusively as a brief freeze or a series of frosts were said to improve the resulting wine's flavor. The wine was typically allowed to maderise, aging for 15–20 years in clay amphorae before drinking. The oxidation gave the wine a color of amber to dark brown. In 37 BC, Varro wrote in Res Rusticae that Falernian increased in value as it matured,^[6] and Pliny recorded that Falernian from the famed Opimian vintage of 121 BC was served at a banquet in 60 BC honoring Julius Caesar for his conquests in Spain.^[7] There were three notable varieties: Dry (Latin austerum), Sweet (dulce), and Light (tenue).

Popularity in Roman times

The physician and gourmet Galen, writing c. AD 180, doubted that all the Falernian wine on sale in the Roman Empire could possibly be genuine. Evidently it was still all too popular at that date. It was one of the first wines to be exported to Britain while it was a Roman settlement, but for whatever reason, Falernian must have gradually lost favour under the later Roman empire, though it was still one of the seven named (and more expensive) wines whose maximum price for army purchase was laid down by the emperor Diocletian around AD 300.

As part of the ruins of ancient Pompeii, a price list on the wall of a bar establishment notes

For one "as" you can drink wine

For two you can drink the best

For four you can drink Falernian.^[8]

The Roman poet Catullus extolled the virtues of Falernian in one of his poems

Come, boy, you who serve out the old Falernian,

fill up stronger cups for me,

as the law of Postumia, mistress of the revels, ordains,

Postumia more tipsy than the tipsy grape.

But water, begone, away with you, water,

destruction of wine, and take up abode

with scrupulous folk. This is the pure Thyonian god.^[9]

The Roman poet Horace mentioned Falernian in one of his poems

When things are troublesome, always remember,

keep an even mind, and in prosperity

be careful of too much happiness:

It was also the wine that Petronius, in the Satyricon, has Trimalchio serve at his dinner banquet. Quintus Dellius complained to Cleopatra that while he and other dignitaries were served sour wine by Antony in Greece, Augustus's catamite was drinking Falernian in Rome.^[10] This refers to Sarmentus, the former slave of Marcus Favonius, who was bought by Octavian and whom enemies of Octavian claimed to be a catamite, although historian Josiah Osgood dismisses this as nothing more than a slander "planted by supporters of Marc Anthony".^[11]

See also

• Ancient Rome and wine

Bibliography

• Andrew Dalby, Food in the Ancient World from A to Z. London, New York: Routledge, 2003. ISBN 0-415-23259-7.

References