Dai Koyamada
Dai Koyamada (小山田大) is a Japanese rock climber. He's one of the premier boulderers of his generation. He has also put up or repeated hard sport climbs.
- He was born on 23 August 1976 in Kagoshima and has been climbing since 1993.[1]
- He is 165 cm and 58 kg.[2]
- In 1996, Koyamada won the Japanese National Championship. This is the event which allowed him to become a professional rock climber.[3]
- In 2000 Koyamada left the competitions, because he realized "The real nature of my climbing resides in crags".[1]
- On 2001 November 27, Koyamada made the first ascent (FA) of Logical Progression (9a) in Joyama, Japan.[4]
- On 2002 November 1, Koyamada repeated Hugh (9a, FA by Fred Rouhling in 1993).[5]
- On 2003 November 11, Koyamada had the first ascent of Byaku-dou (White Road) in Hourai, Japan.[6]
- In 2004, Koyamada journeyed to Australia and repeated every problem at the Hollow Mountain Cave (HMC) in the Grampians, problems put up by Fred Nicole and Klem Loskot and some of Australia's top boulderers. He then proceeded to link-up the problems in the HMC for the first ascent (FA) of The Wheel of Life (V16/8C+) on 2004 May 12.[7] The second ascent of the The Wheel of Life was by Chris Webb Parsons on 13 Oct 2007.[8]
- On 2004 Nov 09, Koyamada repeated Dreamtime.[1]
- On 2005 April 22, Koyamada had the first ascent of V15/8C, Hydrangea in Shiobara, Japan. He added a sit-start to his Hydra (V13/8B, FA on 2004 December 20).[9]
- On 2005 15 October, Koyamada repeated Action Directe (9a) in the Frankenjura, Germany and proclaimed it harder than any other route that he has climbed.[10]
- On 2009 January 20, Koyamada made the first ascent of "Epitaph" (V15) in Hourai, Japan. It took him over a year to complete, and says it's the most beautiful line he has ever made the first ascent on.[11]
- On 2009 April 28, Koyamada made the first ascent of "Calm"(V15) in Mt.Kasagi, Japan.[1]
- On 2010 May 13,Koyamada had the second ascent of Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano which Dave Graham put up in 2005.[12]
- On 2010 November 13,Koyamada had the second ascent of Big Paw (V15) in Chironico which Dave Graham put up in 2008.[13]
- On 2011 April 12, Koyamada made the first ascent of "Agartha" (V14) at Toyota in Japan.[14]
- On 2012 March 22, Koyamada made the first ascent of "The Story of Two Worlds low start" (V16).[15]
References
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/climbersskiers/global/detail/username/daikoyamada
- ↑ "Bleau Info". bleau.info.
- ↑ Gripped Magazine Vol.6 Iss.6 Dec 2004/Jan 2005
- ↑ http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/josunebimba/
- ↑ "Koyamada Repeats Action Directe". Climbing.
- ↑ "8a.nu - GLOBAL". 8a.nu.
- ↑ "V16 in the Grampians of Australia". Climbing.
- ↑ http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/wheeloflife2nd07/
- ↑ "Another V16 for Koyamada?". Climbing.
- ↑ "Dai Koyamada's first press release on Action Directe + pictures". freakclimbing.com.
- ↑ "New Koyamada 8C". ukbouldering.com.
- ↑ "Koyamada Repeats Story of Two Worlds". Climbing.
- ↑ http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/swizzy_bouldering_rundown/
- ↑ "UKC". ukclimbing.com.
- ↑ "Dai Koyamada and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano". planetmountain.com.
External links
- KOYAMADA Dai@daihold.com (Japanese)
- The Way of the Weekend Warrior
- http://www.project-climbing.com/, Yokohama bouldering gym produced by Dai Koyamada
- http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/, Dai's diary (Japanese)
- http://vimeo.com/23101550, video of the first ascent of Agartha V14
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3EJctYJzpk, video of Dai Koyamada climbing Action Direct (9a)
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUoFXV7MgR4, video of Dai Koyamada climbing Dreamtime