Cartwheel hat

A cartwheel shape from the early 1900s, showing a wide brim and large pancake crown, with the hat secured by a hatpin

A cartwheel hat (also cart wheel hat) is a wide brimmed circular or saucer-shaped design. It may be made in a variety of materials, including straw or felt and usually has a low crown. It may be similar to the picture hat and halo-brimmed hat in shape.^[1] Typically, it is worn at an angle to show off the curve of the brim, rather than being worn at the back of the head in the manner of a halo hat.

History

Fanny Brice wearing a cartwheel hat with transparent brim, c. 1910

The cartwheel hat became popular in the years leading up to World War I. The Milwaukee Sentinel described the new fashion in 1914: "Do not be astounded if you notice a smartly gowned woman with a hat of huge proportions...The new large hats are broad brimmed and have low crowns, which are not discernible when the hat is worn, hence they resemble cartwheels tilted at a becoming angle".^[2] These early versions might be covered in velvet, taffeta or silk; some included flower, fur or feather trims.^[2]

Queensland racegoers sporting cartwheel-shaped sunhats, 1939

1930s styles

The cartwheel hat appeared in films and fashion during the 1930s – an American newspaper described the latest Paris fashion for straight and curled-brim cartwheel designs in 1934. The correspondent described crowns so shallow that hats had to be secured with a rubber band above or below the hair, which must be "perfectly coiffed" as it was revealed by the hat.^[3] In 1936, an Australian newspaper report about racegoers at Brisbane's Ascot racing meeting noted the abundance of: "wide-brimmed shady hats of the cartwheel type".^[4] The following year, The Observer described: "cartwheel hats with exceedingly low crowns and brims which slope very slightly downwards", also noting that London milliner Aage Thaarup was showing versions for Ascot in straw and lemon-yellow felt.^[5]

One of the most influential showcases of the potential of the style was the 1939 film Gone with the Wind, in which Vivien Leigh (Scarlett O'Hara) wore a huge cartwheel with green ribbons designed by celebrity milliner Mr. John.^[6][7]

'New Look' trends

While a Hattie Carnegie cartwheel design appeared on the cover of American Vogue in 1938, the style is most associated with the period after World War II austerity and make-do-and-mend was over.^[8] By 1945, new cartwheel styles were being offered with open crowns.^[9]

Publicity still from Les Girls, showing classic cartwheel hats worn at a jaunty angle, 1957

Four years later, Rita Hayworth wore a variation on the cartwheel made of sheer material to match the pleated Jacques Fath dress for her 'low key' wedding to Aly Khan – an event that generated huge interest and replica designs of her outfit.^[10][11] By spring 1950, the cartwheel hat was being tipped in Life alongside pleated dresses as the: "new silhouette". The hat designs featured were also by Mr. John.^[12] A month later, Life noted: "The recent tendency to go bareheaded has been reversed simply because the new season's narrow silhouette looks better when balanced with a hat." The article singled out the cartwheel in a new "unseasonal" coral velvet.^[13]

Kate Middleton, seen here with Prince Harry, wore a Philip Somerville cartwheel design in 2008

The cartwheel became particularly closely associated with New Look fashions. Dior's Y-line collection of autumn 1955 showcased cartwheel hats, paired with pearls, princess-line dresses and stoles.^[14] While the size and shape of hats could be extreme, such designs were made not just for day but evening wear; the Victoria and Albert Museum archive includes a Christian Dior cocktail frock designed to be worn with matching tulle cartwheel hat.^[15]

High-profile wearers of the style included Queen Elizabeth who wore a straw cartwheel shape on her tour of Australia the year after her coronation – although her hat was less extreme than some of the Dior models.^[16]

Post 1950s revivals

The cartwheel hat has continued as a favourite showstopper for weddings and events – with designers such as Philip Somerville, Graham Smith and Frederick Fox including them in their millinery ranges.^[17][18] There have also been notable revivals in high fashion; Christian Lacroix featured dramatic forward-angled designs in his 1987 autumn collection.^[19] He also featured cartwheel shapes in neon orange and shocking pink in 2002.^[20]

See also

• Halo hat
• Mushroom hat

References

External links

• Cartwheel hat at University of North Texas archive
• New South Wales museum collection, black cartwheel design, c. 1950
• Getty image of 1946 cartwheel hat and evening gown
• British Pathé film showing cartwheel models, 1950
• Stephen Jones contemporary cartwheel hat in Ryerson Fashion Research Collection