Baramulla

This article is about the municipality in India. For its namesake district, see Baramulla district.
Baramulla
Varamulla
City
Baramulla

Location in Jammu and Kashmir, India

Coordinates: 34°11′53″N 74°21′50″E / 34.198°N 74.364°ECoordinates: 34°11′53″N 74°21′50″E / 34.198°N 74.364°E
Country  India
State Jammu and Kashmir
District Baramulla
Population (2011)
  Total 167,986
  Rank 4th.
Languages
  Official Urdu
Time zone IST (UTC+5:30)
PIN 193101 (New City), 193102 (Old City), 193103 (Khawajabagh area)
Telephone code 01952
Vehicle registration JK 05
Sex ratio 873 /
Literacy 66.93%
Website www.baramulla.nic.in

Baramulla (ˌbærəˈmʊlə) is a municipality in Baramulla district in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. It is located on the banks of Jhelum river, downstream from Srinagar (the state capital). The city was previously known as Varahamula (Sanskrit for "boar's molar").[1]

Origin

The name Baramulla is derived from the Sanskrit Varahamula (वराहमूल), a combination of Varaha (boar) and Mul (root, or deep). According to Hindu teachings, the Kashmir Valley was once a lake known as Satisaras (Parvati's Lake in Sanskrit). Ancient Hindu texts relate that the lake was occupied by the demon Jalodbhava ("originated from water") until Lord Vishnu assumed the form of a boar and struck the mountain at Varahamula, creating an opening for the water to flow out.[2]

Map of India, with many cities indicated
Ancient Indian cities showing Varaha, where modern Baramulla is located

History

Ancient and medieval

The city of Baramulla was founded by Raja Bhimsina in 2306 BCE. A number of visitors have travelled to Baramulla, including Hiun Tsang from China and a British historian named Moorcraft. Mughal emperors were fascinated with Baramulla. Gateway of the Kashmir Valley, Baramulla was a way station during their visits to the valley. In 1508 CE Emperor Akbar, who entered the valley via Pakhil, spent several days at Baramulla; according to Tarikh-e-Hassan, the city was decorated during Akbar's stay. Jahangir stayed at Baramulla during his visit to Kashmir in 1620.

From its beginning, Baramulla has had religious importance. Hindu Teertha and Buddhist Vihars made the city sacred to Hindus and Buddhists. During the 15th century the city became important to Muslims also; Syed Janbaz Wali, who visited the valley with his companions in 1421, chose Baramulla as the centre of his mission and was buried there. His shrine attracts pilgrims from throughout the valley. In 1620 the sixth Sikh Guru, Shri Hargobind, visited the city. In Baramulla Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists and Sikhs lived in harmony and contributed to its culture.[3]

Baramulla was the oldest and most-important town in northern Kashmir and Jammu and "Gateway to the Kashmir Valley" (by the Rawalpindi-Murree-Muzaffarabad-Baramulla Road) until 27 October 1947. It was ceded to India when the maharaja signed the instrument of accession on 26 October 1947. The city is the headquarters of Baramulla district.

October 1947

Addressing a public meeting at Hazuri Bagh, Srinagar on 1 October 1947, Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah said, "Till the last drop of my blood, I will not believe in two-nation theory." On 2 October, the Working Committee of the National Conference met under Abdullah's presidency and decided to support accession to India; however, Maharaja Hari Singh wanted to remain independent.

Tribal forces from Pakistan attacked under the code name "Operation Gulmarg" to seize Kashmir. They moved along the Rawalpindi-Murree-Muzaffarabad-Baramulla Road on 22 October 1947 with Pakistani soldiers in civilian clothes. Muzaffarabad fell on 24 October 1947, and they captured Baramulla the following day. They looted, raped, killed, burned and vandalised shrines and temples. They raped and killed European nuns and nurses.[4] According to Tariq Ali, the local cinema became a "rape center".[5] The atrocities continued for several days.[6] Aeroplanes with Indian troops airlifted from Delhi the morning of 27 October could land at Srinagar airfield, since the tribal forces were still at Baramulla.

Alastair Lamb wrote in Incomplete Partition, Roxford 1997, pp. 186–187:

The (tribal) leaders completely lost control over their men, an orgy of killing was the result. This was certainly the case at St. Joseph's College, Convent and Hospital, the site of what was to become one of the most publicised incidents of the entire Kashmir conflict. Here nuns, priests and congregation, including patients in the hospital, were slaughtered; and at the same time a small number of Europeans, notably Lt. Colonel D.O. Dykes and his wife, an Englishwoman preparing to leave the hospital that day with her new-born baby, Mother Teresalina, a twenty-nine-year-old Spanish nun who had been in Baramulla only a few weeks, as well as Mother Aldertrude, the Assistant Mother Superior, and one Mr. Jose Barretto, husband of the doctor, met their deaths at tribal hands.[7]

Sam Manekshaw (later a field marshal) was a colonel in the Directorate of Military Operations who went to Srinagar with V. P. Menon to assess the situation on 26 October 1947. He later told a journalist:[8]

Fortunately for Kashmir, the tribals were busy raiding, raping all along. In Baramulla they killed Colonel D.O.T. Dykes. Dykes and I were of the same seniority. We did our first year's attachment with the Royal Scots in Lahore, way back in 1934-5. Tom went to the Sikh regiment. I went to the Frontier Force regiment. We'd lost contact with each other. He'd become a lieutenant colonel. I'd become a full colonel. Tom and his wife were holidaying in Baramulla when the tribesmen killed them...

Charles Chevenix Trench wrote in The Frontier Scouts (1985):

In October 1947... tribal lashkars hastened in lorries – undoubtedly with official logistic support – into Kashmir... at least one British Officer, Harvey-Kelly took part in the campaign. It seemed that nothing could stop these hordes of tribesmen taking Srinagar with its vital airfield. Indeed nothing did, but their own greed. The Mahsuds in particular stopped to loot, rape and murder; Indian troops were flown in and the lashkars pushed out of the Vale of Kashmir into the mountains. The Mahsuds returned home in a savage mood, having muffed an easy chance, lost the loot of Srinagar and made fools of themselves.

Tom Cooper of the Air Combat Information Group wrote, "...The Pathans appeared foremost interested in looting, killing, ransacking and other crimes against the inhabitants instead of a serious military action."[9]

Biju Patnaik (later Chief Minister of Odisha) piloted the first plane to land at Srinagar airport that morning. He brought 17 soldiers from the 1st Sikh Regiment, commanded by Lt. Col. Dewan Ranjit Rai: "...The pilot flew low on the airstrip twice to ensure that no raiders were around... Instructions from Prime Minister Nehru’s office were clear: If the airport was taken over by the enemy, you are not to land. Taking a full circle the DC-3 flew ground level. Anxious eyeballs peered from inside the aircraft – only to find the airstrip empty. Nary a soul was in sight. The raiders were busy distributing the war booty amongst them in Baramulla." According to Mohammad Akbar Khan (Brigadier-in-Charge, Pakistan) in his War for Kashmir in 1947, "The uncouth raiders delayed in Baramulla for two (whole) days for some unknown reason."[10] It took two weeks for the Indian army to evict the raiders (who had been joined by Pakistani regulars and were well-entrenched) from Baramulla on 9 November 1947. Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah spoke to the UN Security Council on 5 February 1948: "...The raiders came to our land, massacred thousands of people—mostly Hindus and Sikhs, but Muslims, too—abducted thousands of girls, Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims alike, looted our property and almost reached the gates of our summer capital, Srinagar..."

Recent years

The road network has been improved in Baramulla since 1947, and better educational facilities have been created. Bridges on the Jhelum River have been built (or are planned) to connect the old town on the north bank of the river with the new town on the south bank. Urban renewal in the old town has been attempted by moving residents to the new town. Baramulla is connected by rail with Srinagar, Anantnag, Qazigund and Banihal.

Geography

Baramulla is on the Jhelum River, at its highest point. The old town is on the north bank of the river, and the new town is on the south bank. They are connected by five bridges, including a suspension bridge connecting Gulnar Park and Dewan Bagh. Five more bridges are being built or are planned. A bridge will connect the Khanpora and Drangbal areas of the city.

The old town is densely populated, and smaller than the new town. Government offices, hospitals, the bus station and most other facilities are in the new town. The railway station is on the eastern end of the new town, on the river. Beyond the old town, the river divides into two channels at Khadanyar (near police headquarters), forming an island known as Eco Park.

Climate

Baramulla has cold, snowy winters and mild summers.

Climate data for Baramulla (1971–1986)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Average high °C (°F) 7.0
(44.6)
8.2
(46.8)
14.1
(57.4)
20.5
(68.9)
24.5
(76.1)
29.6
(85.3)
30.1
(86.2)
29.6
(85.3)
27.4
(81.3)
22.4
(72.3)
15.1
(59.2)
8.2
(46.8)
19.7
(67.5)
Average low °C (°F) −2
(28.4)
−0.7
(30.7)
3.4
(38.1)
7.9
(46.2)
10.8
(51.4)
14.9
(58.8)
18.1
(64.6)
17.5
(63.5)
12.1
(53.8)
5.8
(42.4)
0.9
(33.6)
−1.5
(29.3)
7.3
(45.1)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 48
(1.89)
68
(2.68)
121
(4.76)
85
(3.35)
68
(2.68)
39
(1.54)
62
(2.44)
76
(2.99)
28
(1.1)
33
(1.3)
28
(1.1)
54
(2.13)
710
(27.96)
Avg. precipitation days (≥ 1.0 mm) 6.6 7.3 10.2 8.8 8.1 5.7 7.9 6.8 3.5 2.8 2.8 5.1 75.6
Source: HKO[11]

Demographics

Baramulla is the fourth-most-populous town in Jammu and Kashmir state.[12] Males comprised 55 percent of the population, and females 45 percent.

The city's population was slightly less than 200,000 in the 2011 census, and it was not on the list of cities with a population of two lakh or more.[13] Baramulla's old town is known as Sher-e-Khas, and its new town as Greater Baramulla. According to the 2011 census the city's population was 167,986, behind Srinagar, Jammu and Anantnag. Baramulla has an average 55-percent literacy rate (61 percent for males and 49 percent for females). Eleven percent of the population was under age six.

Religions in Baramulla
Religion Percent
Hindus
 
5%
Muslims
 
94%
Sikhs
 
0.7%
Other†
 
0.3%
Distribution of religions
Includes Sikhs (0.2%) and Buddhists (<0.2%).

Economy

Baramulla is the largest grower in the state, with apples as one of the major crops.

Education

St. Joseph's School is the oldest missionary schools in the Kashmir valley, it is the pioneer of education not only for Baramulla but for the whole north Kashmir which has produced the brightest and the best of the valley across a century. Baramulla also has a number of government-run schools. Higher secondary schools are also known as intermediate colleges. Baramulla has a Kendriya Vidyalaya (central school, a novodaya Vidayala located in Shahkot and a Sainik (military) school, both affiliated with the Central Board of Secondary Education.

Baramulla has separate government degree colleges for men and women, and a nursing college associated with the district hospital. The north campus of the University of Kashmir is in Baramulla, and an engineering college has been established.

Baramulla has a Government Polytechnic College, Baramulla, otherwise Baramulla Polytechnic College, which was established in 2012,the polytechnic college is located in the Kanispora area of Baramulla city. The polytechnic teaches three-year diploma courses in electrical engineering and architecture.[14][15][16] Government has approved the project of constructing a medical college in Baramulla which will me known as Government Medical College Baramulla.[17]

Healthcare

Baramulla has district civic and veterinary hospitals, with radiology (x-ray) and ultrasonography facilities. A new building for the veterinary hospital, costing approximately INR 10 million, is 60 percent completed. Baramulla also has a private run mother and child hospital called St Joseph’s hospitals,St Joseph’s hospitals history goes back to the year 1921 when Franciscan Roman Catholic sister of Mary came to Baramulla from Rawalpindi on a Tonga, they were invited by the Mill hill Fathers of London who already had established St Joseph’s school Baramulla.[18]

Eco Park

Eco Park, Khadniyar, Baramulla is located at the island in the middle of Jhelum river on the road from Baramulla town to Uri. It is approached by a wooden bridge. In has been recently developed by J&K Tourism Development Corporation with a blend of modern substructure and natural exquisiteness. It offers a great view with mountains in the background, Jhelum river flowing along the island and lush green well-maintained garden with some beautifully designed wooden huts. It is one of the best places to visit in the Baramulla and is a famous destination of locals particularly in summer evenings. Some tourists also visit it. A cable car project and expansion of the existing eco park have been planned.[19]

Transport

From Srinagar

Baramulla is about 55 km (34 mi) from Srinagar, capital of Jammu and Kashmir state. National Highway NH-1A connects the city with the rest of the country, and taxi and bus service is available from Srinagar and Jammu. The nearest railway terminus is Jammu Tawi, about 360 km (220 mi) south.

From Uri and Muzaffarabad

The 123-kilometre (76 mi) road from Muzaffarabad to Baramulla runs along Jhelum River. It crosses the Line of Control and passes through Uri, 45 km (28 mi) west of Baramulla. The first 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) of the road from Uri to Baramulla does not run along the river, but the remaining 40 km (25 mi) is scenic, passing wooded mountainsides and cliffs.

Air

Srinagar Airport is the nearest airport, 50 km (31 mi) southeast; Jammu, the winter capital of the state, also has an airport.

Road

Baramulla is connected to rest of India by National Highway (NH1). Baramulla is connected to Sangrama, Wagoora, Hygam, Pattan, Zainakot to Srinagar and other towns in Kashmir by road. It is connected to Muzaffarabad across the Line of Control by a 123-kilometre (76 mi) road which was closed in October 1947. The road was reopened in 2005, but travel across the line is controlled.

Rail

Baramulla is the last station on the 119-kilometre (74 mi)-long Kashmir railway, opened in October 2009, connecting with Srinagar, Qazigund and Banihal across the Pir Panjal mountains through the 11.2-kilometre (7.0 mi)-long Banihal railway tunnel. The Kashmir railway is planned to connect with the Indian rail network.

Languages

The most-commonly-used language is Kashmiri, followed by Urdu, Gujari and Punjabi.[20]

References

  1. The economy of Jammu & Kashmir. Radha Krishan Anand & Co., 2004. Retrieved 1 July 2010. ... meaning in Sanskrit a boar's molar place. Foreigners who visited this place pronounced ... The place was thus named as Baramulla meaning 12 bores.
  2. Kashmir and its people: studies in the evolution of Kashmiri society. A.P.H. Publishing Corporation. Retrieved 1 July 2010. That the valley of Kashmir was once a vast lake, known as "Satisaras", the lake of Parvati (consort of Shiva), is enshrined in our traditions. There are many mythological stories connected with the desiccation of the lake, before the valley was fit for habitation. The narratives make it out that it was occupied by a demon 'Jalodbhava', till Lord Vishnu assumed the form of a boar and struck the mountain at Baramulla (ancient Varahamula) boring an opening in it for the water to flow out.
  3. "District Profile". Baramulla.nic.in.
  4. Wilhelm von Pochhammer (1981). India's road to nationhood: a political history of the subcontinent. Allied Publishers. pp. 512–. ISBN 978-81-7764-715-0.
  5. Tariq Ali; Hilal Bhat; Arundhati Roy; Angana P. Chatterji, Pankaj Mishra (24 October 2011). Kashmir: The Case for Freedom. Verso Books. pp. 33–. ISBN 978-1-84467-735-1.
  6. Triloki Nath Dhar. "The Story of Kashmir Affairs – A Peep into the Past". Kashmir-information.com.
  7. "Remember Baramulla". Jloughnan.tripod.com.
  8. "Kashmir & Manekshaw This eye witness... – Join Indian Defence Forces". Facebook.
  9. Tom Cooper (29 October 2003), Indo-Pakistani War, 1947–1949, Air Combat Information Group, retrieved 11 April 2012
  10. "October 27, 1947: Dakota in my dell ~ FRONTLINE KASHMIR". Frontlinekashmir.org.
  11. "Climatological Information for Srinigar, India". Hong Kong Observatory. Retrieved 2 May 2011.
  12. http://censusindia.gov.in/towns/jk_towns.pdf
  13. "Top cities of India by Population census 2011". Census2011.co.in.
  14. "Govt.Polytechnic College Baramulla". baramullapolytechnic.weebly.com. Retrieved 3 February 2014.
  15. "Government polytechnic college Baramulla". topengineering.in. Retrieved 3 February 2014.
  16. "Government Polytechnic Baramulla". jkdte.org. Retrieved 3 February 2014.
  17. ,"JK gets 4 medical colleges" Greater Kashmir,Srinagar February 14, 2014.
  18. Kashmir in Sickness and in Health. Gulzar Muft, 2013. Retrieved 12 March 2014.
  19. GreaterKashmir.com (Greater Service) (3 July 2011). "Where is Greater Baramulla Lastupdate:- Sun, 3 Jul 2011 18:30:00 GMT". Greaterkashmir.com.
  20. S.C. Bhatt; Gopal Bhargava. Land and People of Indian States and Union Territories. Retrieved 1 July 2010. As most of these Hindi albeit Gujari speakers have been shown as concentrated in Baramulla, Kupwara, Punch, Rajouri and Doda districts, their Gujar identity becomes obvious. The number of Punjabi speakers in 1961, 1971 and 1981 Census Reports, actually reflects the number of Sikhs who have maintained their language and culture, and who are concentrated mainly in Srinagar, Badgam, Tral, Baramulla (all in Kashmir region), Udhampur and Jammu.
  • Directory of Statistics, Jammu and Kashmir (2009)