Zoar Valley

The Zoar Valley Multiple Use Area is a conservation area located at the confluence of the main and south branches of Cattaraugus Creek, on the border of Erie County and Cattaraugus County in western New York, USA. The area is within the Towns of Collins, Otto, and Persia.

"Zoar Valley" often refers inclusively to the larger valley of the Cattaraugus, but the state Multiple Use Area specifically encompasses an eight-mile section of the creek's Main Branch Canyon and three miles of the smaller South Branch. Canyon depths here are by far the greatest within the entire river corridor, ranging up to 380 feet (120 m) in the South Branch and 480 feet (150 m) along the Main Branch. Several nearly vertical rock faces approach 400 feet (120 m). Zoar Valley contains some of the last stands of old growth forest in Western New York and consists of 2,939 acres (11.89 km²). In 2007, as part of the drafting and implementation of Zoar Valley's Unit Management Plan, the entire state-owned length of gorge plus a 300 feet (91 m) buffer (where sufficient public land is held), and a 300 feet (91 m) buffer along several of the larger side creeks, was designated as the Zoar Valley Unique Area, which affords conservation protection comparable to that enjoyed by wildlands in the Adirondacks. The Unique Area contains the large majority of the currently known or suspected old-growth forest, all of the slope and cliff/talus plant communities, and all of the riverside floodplain and terrace woodlands. This achievement culminated a dedicated campaign by citizens, activists, and scientists/students to see this ecological gem awarded the recognition and preservation it has long deserved.

History

The land was acquired by the state under the 1960 Multiple Use Bond Act, and additional land was added from Herbert F. Darling. The multiple use area is maintained by the Department of Environmental Conservation of New York State. The adjacent Deer Lick Conservation Area is owned by The Nature Conservancy. Two other privately owned conservation areas, the William P. Alexander Preserve and the Rodger Sweetland Memorial Preserve, are located nearby and are owned by The Nature Sanctuary Society of Western New York, Inc.

Geography

The multiple use area is located in the valley of the Cattaraugus Creek. The valley is considered defined by Gowanda in the west and Springville in the east.

Ecology

Forests

Forests within Zoar Valley range from "old fields" and second growth on abandoned farmland (pretty mundane ecologically, but good game lands) to some of the finest old-growth stands in the eastern United States.^[1][2][3][4] Most of the old growth is found within the Main Branch Canyon, i.e. the Unique Area, with only a few narrow corridors along steep ravines of several larger side streams. Some upland forests within the state lands are very mature in character (e.g. near Holcomb Pond off of Vail Road in the town of Collins NY), but these experienced timber harvest in the 19th century and light management cutting by the State in the 1970s and 1980s.^[5]

Zoar Valley's old growth comprises several different eastern deciduous ecotypes, depending upon location and landform characteristics. Hemlock/northern hardwood stands are widespread, especially on mesic north-facing slopes (if modest enough to support woodlands), and on the lower reaches of south-facing slopes.^[6] In addition to eastern hemlock, which dominates north-facing upper slopes, sugar maple, American beech, yellow birch, northern red oak, and tulip tree are abundant. Trees are generally moderate in size (mostly <24 inches (61 cm) at 4.5 feet (1.4 m) breast height, i.e. DBH), although scattered emergents can be much larger. They are, however, exceptionally old. An eastern hemlock of only 16 inches (41 cm) DBH has been core dated to 410 years at breast height; perhaps 450 – 500 years at ground level. These slope woodlands present an impressive and ancient aesthetic but few stands can be visited directly. The steep slopes are mostly too dangerous to traverse.

Zoar Valley's most renowned forest stands may be those found on raised fluvial terraces along Cattaraugus Creek.^[7][8] The river/canyon system has sufficient riparian zone that depositional landforms have been created along most of the Main Branch gorge, ranging from young floodplains only recently colonized by pioneer trees to centuries old upper terraces clothed in exceptional "big tree" old growth.^[9] Hemlock/northern hardwood stands are again important, but "mesophytic" ecotypes such as beech-maple, maple-basswood, and rich mesophytic are also represented.^[10] There are also several bottomland groves of large and aging eastern cottonwood, American sycamore, and American elm; likely remnants of earlier floodplain stands. An isolated sycamore, now embedded within later successional beech-maple woodlands, has been core dated to 350 years.^[11] Species diversity along the canyon bottom is among the highest in the northeast, with more than 20 species occurring in upper-terrace old growth and ~10 more largely restricted to younger floodplains and/or lower terraces.^[12] Tree diameters and, especially, heights are superlative. Numerous species exceed 40 inches (100 cm) DBH, and a dozen or more represent the tallest of their kind in New York State or in the entire Northeast.^[13][14] Tulip tree reaches nearly 160 feet (49 m), sycamore 154 feet (47 m), and white ash, bitternut hickory, and northern red oak exceed 140 feet (43 m). A half dozen more top 130 feet (40 m), and most of the gorge's canopy species reach 115 feet (35 m). Even hop hornbeam and shadblow (under- to mid-story trees) reach 80 feet (24 m) - a common canopy height for much of the East's second growth. A 133 feet (41 m) specimen of American basswood, a species whose range does not extend to the southern Appalachians where most of the East's tallest trees reside, may be the tallest of the species. A 130 feet (40 m) x 40 inches (100 cm) DBH American elm, seemingly disease free, may be the largest forest grown elm in the Northeast.

An interesting and likewise very old forest is found on the exposed and sun-baked upper reaches of south-facing slopes, which are quite xeric despite the humid regional climate. Here are found diminutive (<20 feet (6.1 m) x 12 inches (30 cm)) and gnarled chestnut oak, northern red oak, and red pine.^[15][16] Despite their small size these trees can exceed 165 years at breast height. An impressive way to experience Zoar Valley's forest communities is to explore both the terrace old growth and the upper slope "elfin" woodlands on the same visit (you'll have to power hike to do this, but it is possible on a long summer day).

River/stream

Cattaraugus Creek is a 5th - 6th-order stream (depending upon the exact delineation of headwater tributaries), and is the largest tributary to eastern Lake Erie. Flow is highly flashy, and can range from summer lows of <100 cu. ft./sec to impressive floods >30,000 cu-secs.^[17] The river is safely crossable at low flows but rapidly becomes treacherous as water rises. Watch the weather and the river level carefully - hikers have been stranded by rising water. Visitors are directed to Americanwhitewater.org^[18] or to the USGS^[19] for stream gauge levels. Avoid anything over three feet at Gowanda NY. These water levels, however, are right where rafters start to get interested.

Ecological integrity and environmental health of the Cattaraugus are generally good.^[20] The river edge and immediate riparian zone are largely intact for most of the river's length. There is only one dam on the main stream, located about 20 miles upstream from Zoar Valley. Although a barrier to fish, it does not regulate flow. Sediment load and siltation are Cattaraugus Creek's main environmental issues,^[21] and turbidity can exceed 1000 NTU (this is quite muddy) on a regular basis. Some of this sediment load is derived from silt/clay tills common along the river, but some likely stems from agricultural activities. As is the case with many streams draining rural/agricultural lands, fecal coliform loading can be elevated at high flows. During summer storm events (the worst case, especially if after a prolonged dry period) bacterial levels can exceed 10,000 cfu (colony forming units), so caution must be exercised regarding contact with the water. Fortunately, bacterial levels are low most other times.

Cattaraugus Creek is a fine steelhead trout stream, often ranked among the best in the East. Native brook trout are also regularly caught. Both fish successfully spawn in the river and/or its tributaries. Although anglers can be quite abundant during top seasons, the wide expanse of Zoar Valley allows a wilderness experience even on busy days - no combat fishing here!

Numerous small waterfalls cascade into the Zoar Valley Canyon, and are especially impressive during spring rains and snowmelt^[22] Most are cascades but there are even a few straight drops of >100 feet (30 m). Above the falls are dozens of small headwater streams that drain the surrounding uplands. These streams vary widely in environmental/habitat characteristics and ecology, and represent an interesting ecosystem in their own right.^[23] These streams were extensively disturbed, nearly denuded in some cases, by an intense flash flood in August 2009. A long-term study in now being undertaken to catalogue changes and recovery after this event.

Five miles west and upstream of the Multiple Use Area (MUA) is West Valley, the home of the West Valley Nuclear Reprocessing Plant Demonstration Project, a facility for processing spent nuclear fuel rods. It operated from 1966 to 1972. Decommissioning is underway in 2012.

Safety

Enjoying Zoar Valley's beauty is not without responsibilities, particularly to the safety of yourself and the others in your group. Tragically, lives are lost in the canyon almost every year (providing citations here would only clutter the article with newspaper links, and might upset families and friends of the victims). Other visitors have been severely injured or have needed costly and hazardous rescues. A few simple rules can prevent many of these situations.

1) Never climb ANYTHING within or near the canyon (this is especially true of the waterfalls). Zoar's Devonian shales and associated loose debris are far too friable. A good rule of thumb is "if you'd need to use your hands, don't climb the slope."

2) Never hike down a slope unless you or a member of your party is ABSOLUTELY sure the path can be safely traversed, i.e. they've done it before. There is nothing more treacherous than hiking downhill, and many of Zoar's sheer cliffs are hidden by deceptive tree-lined slopes at their crests.

3) Use great caution around or when crossing the Cattaraugus. Visitors are strongly encouraged to check river levels on-line.

4) Do not float the river in inner tubes, pool floats, etc. in any but the lowest of summer flows. There have been drownings. Higher water and colder seasons are for professionally guided tours or for experienced river runners. And...

5) Plan your hike and hike your plan. Know what you are doing and let others back home know as well. DO NOT start a hike late in the day. It's always farther back to the trailhead than you think. The canyon goes pitch black well before true sundown and the temperature drops like a stone even in summer. Watch the weather, and begin heading out if any thunderstorms develop, including those that appear to be hitting upstream. The river rises uncannily fast, so don't get trapped.

Make your visit the first of many - not your last.

Activities

• Fishing
• Hunting.
• Hiking
• White-water rafting
• Wildlife and scenic views

References

External links

• NY DEC Zoar Valley
• Zoar Valley information
• Zoar Valley Nature Society
• All About Zoar Valley - A Western New York Gem

Coordinates: 42°26′23″N 078°52′24″W / 42.43972°N 78.87333°W / 42.43972; -78.87333