West Azerbaijan Province

West Azerbaijan Province استان آذربایجان غربی
Province
Location of West Azerbaijan within Iran
Coordinates: 37°33′10″N 45°04′33″E / 37.5528°N 45.0759°E / 37.5528; 45.0759Coordinates: 37°33′10″N 45°04′33″E / 37.5528°N 45.0759°E / 37.5528; 45.0759
Country	Iran
Capital	Urmia
Counties	17
Area
• Total	37,437 km2 (14,455 sq mi)
Population (2012)
• Total	3,080,576
• Density	82/km2 (210/sq mi)
Time zone	IRST (UTC+03:30)
• Summer (DST)	IRST (UTC+04:30)
Main language(s)	Persian (official) local languages: Azeri[1][2][3][4] Kurdish[5] Armenian Assyrian[6] .

West Azerbaijan Province (Persian: استان آذربایجان غربی‎, Ostān-e Āzarbāijān-e Gharbī and :Azerbaijani: غربی آذربایجان اوستانی) is one of the 31 provinces of Iran. It is in the northwest of the country, bordering Turkey, Iraq and Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic, and the provinces of East Azerbaijan, Zanjan and Kurdistan.

The province of West Azerbaijan covers an area of 39,487 km², or 43,660 km² including Lake Urmia. In 2006 the province had a population of about 3 million (estimate).^[7] The capital city and largest city of the province is Urmia.

Archaeology

Permanent settlements were established in the province as early as the 6th millennium BC as excavation at sites such as Teppe Hasanlu establish. In Hasanlu, a famous Golden Vase was found in 1958. The province is the location of Tepe Hajji Firuz, site of some of the world's earliest evidence of wine production.^[8][9][10] Gooy Teppe is another significant site, where a metal plaque dating from 800 BC was found that depicts a scene from the epic of Gilgamesh.

Ruins such as these and the UNESCO world heritage site at the Sassanid compound of Takht-i-Suleiman illustrate the strategic importance and tumultuous history of the province through the millennia. Overall, the province enjoys a wealth of historical attractions, with 169 sites registered by the Cultural Heritage Organization of Iran.

History

The major known ancient civilization in the region was that of Mannaeans, a buffer state between Urartian and Assyrian sphere of influence. Mannaeans in turn spoke a language related to Urartian. After the fall of Assyria, the region was known as Mantiene (or Matiene) in Greek sources. Matiene bordered on Atropatene situated east of Lake Urmia. The region subsequently was known as Persarmenia from the second century BC. as late as 11th century AD.

In the late 4th century AD Sassanids incorporated the area into the neighbouring Adhurpadaghan satrapy to the east.^[11] The name Adhurpatagan, later Arabicized to Azerbaijan, derives from Atropates,^[12][13] an Iranian satrap of Media under the Achaemenid empire, who later was reinstated as the satrap of Media under Alexander of Macedonia.^[14]

At 7th century this area was under Islamic rule. After Babak Khorramdin revolts, the grip of the Abbasid caliphate weakened, allowing some native dynasties to rise. Around the 10th century the medieval geographer Al-Muqaddasi described some parts of the area what is today called West Azerbaijan province as part of Armenia:^[15]

“	Arminiya is an important district. Its capital is Dabil and among its towns are Bidlis, Khilat, Arjish, Bargiri, Khuy, Salmas, Urmiya, Dakharraqan, Maragha, Ahar, Marand, Sinjar, Qaliqala, Qandariya, Qal'at, Yunus, Nurin. Azerbaijan: Its capital and metropolis of the region is Ardabil. Among its towns are: Rasba, Tabriz, Jabirwan, Khunaj, Al-Miyanj, Al-Sarat, Barwa, Warthan, Muqan, Mimadh, Barzand.	”

The Seljuk Turks dominated the region in the 11th and early 12th centuries. In 1136, this area fell to the lot of the Atabakan-e-Azerbaijan and Atabakan-e-Maragheh. It was captured by the Turkic Khwarizm Shah Jalal ad-din rule until the advent of the Mongols. After being conquered by Turkic Timurrids in the 14th century, Khoy gained an important role in all over Azerbaijan.

After 1502, west Azerbaijan became the chief bulwark and military base of the Qizilbash army of Safavids. In the meantime, between 1514 and 1603, the Ottoman Turks frequently occupied parts of the province; Also the battle of DimDim between Safavids and Ottoman controlled Kurds took place in western frontiers of Azerbaijan. After a long and bloody siege led by the Safavid grand vizier Hatem Beg, which lasted from November 1609 to the summer of 1610, the Castle of Dimdim was captured. All the defenders were killed and Shah Abbas I ordered a general massacre in Bradost and Mukriyan (reported by Eskandar Beg, Safavid historian in the book Alam Aray-e Abbasi) and resettled the Afshar tribe in the region while deporting many Kurdish tribes to Khorasan region. The Safavid control was restored by Shah Abbas but during the Afghan invasion (1722–8) the Ottomans recaptured Azerbaijan and other western provinces of Iran, until Nadir Shah expelled them. With the advent of the Qajars, Azerbaijan became the traditional residence of the heirs-apparent. At this time, the final northern frontier of Iran with Russia (along the Araxes) was established in 1828 (Turkmanchay Treaty). The Russian (Tsarist) army occupied west Azerbaijan in 1909, and again in 1912–1914 and 1915–1918 period,the Ottoman forces occupied here in 1914–1915 and 1918–1919 periods, the Bolshevik forces occupied Azerbaijan and the Soviet forces occupied Iranian Azerbaijan in 1941, createing a very short-lived autonomous, Soviet-supported state from November 1945 to November 1946,[27] which was dissolved after reunification of Iranian Azerbaijan with Iran in November of the same year. Shortly after it the province of Azerbaijan was divided into a western and eastern part which were renamed to Chaharom (fourth province) and sevom (third province), respectively. In 1961 Fourth province was renamed West Azerbaijan by the Iranian authoroties.

Some events in the 19th and 20th centuries are:

• Shaikh Ubeidullah Attacks, west and south of Lake Urmia in 1880;^[16]
• Simko Attacks, west of Lake Urmia from 1918 to 1922;^[17]
• the Soviet occupation in 1946;
• the foundation and destruction of the Azerbaijan People's Government and Republic of Mahabad in 1946; and
• periodic severe fighting from 1979 until 1990s between Iraq backed Kurdish fighters in frontier areas and the Iranian government.^[18]

Geography and climate

With an area of 43,660 square kilometers, including Lake Urmia, the province of West Azerbaijan is located on the northwest of Iran.

The climate of the province is largely influenced by the rainy winds of the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean. Cold northern winds affect the province during winter and cause heavy snow.^[19]

According to meteorological data, local temperatures vary within the province. Average temperature differs from 9.4 °C in Piranshahr to 11.6 °C in Mahabad, while it is 9.8 °C in Urmia, 10.8 °C in Khoy, 9.4 °C in Piranshahr, and in Mahabad 11.6 °C. According to same data, the highest temperature in the province reaches 34 °C in July, and the lowest temperature is –16 °C in January. Maximum change of temperature in summer is 4 °C and in winter 15 °C. Average annual precipitation ranges from 870 millimetres (34 in) of rainfall equivalent in exposed southern areas down to around 300 millimetres (12 in) in Maku in the north,^[20] of which a substantial proportion is snow.

Administrative divisions and People

West Azerbaijan counties
Lake Urmia East Azarbaijan TURKEY IRAQ Kurdistan AZERBAIJAN Maku Chaldoran Khoy Salmas Urmia Oshnaviyeh Naghadeh Miandoab Piranshahr Mahabad Bukan Shahindej Takab Sardasht

There are no official statistics or census figures on the ethnic makeup of Iran. The bulk of the population in West Azerbaijan Province are mainly Azeris^[1][2] and Kurds.^[5] There are three ethnic and religious groups who are native to the province but who have minority status: Assyrians, Armenians, and Jews. There are also immigrants from other parts of Iran in the major cities of the province.

According to certain sources most of West Azarbaijan is inhabited by Azerbaijanis^[21] with 76.2 percent of the population^[22] and Kurds with 21.7 percent.^[22] Azeris are living mostly in Chaldoran, Maku, Khoy, Salmas, Urmia, Naghadeh, Miandoab, Shahindej and Takab counties and Kurds inhabit mostly Oshnaviyeh, Sardasht, Mahabad, Piranshahr and Bukan counties.^{[23][24][25][26][27]}

Results of General Culture Council of Islamic Republic of Iran for West Azerbaijan province ethnic status:^[22]

The diversity of religions in the province has been a major factor throughout the history of the province. The religions in the province are Shia and Sunni Islam, Christianity, Judaism, and Yarasani. Both Azerbaijanis and Kurds follow Islam, the Azerbaijanis belonging mainly to Shias and the Kurds being the Sunni branch. There are also considerable Shia Kurds in the province. There is a very small minority who follow Yarasani (or Ahl-e Haqq, اهل حق). Christianity is the only religion of the Assyrians and Armenians. The Jews follow Judaism. There are also Bahais and Zoroastrians in the province.

Religion

Some Muslim researchers^[28] have proclaimed that the birth of the prophet Zoroaster was in this area, in the vicinity of Lake Orumieh, Chichesht or Ganzak; recent scholarship, however, indicates that sites in Central Asia are more likely.^[29]

In this province, Islam (Shiite and Sunni) is the majority religion. However, there is also a large Assyrians Christian minority, who have historically lived on the west shore of Lake Urmia, as well as Armenians who are scattered throughout the province. Notably, the city of Maku in northern West Azerbaijan was the only city in Iran (before World War II) where Christians comprised the majority.

St. Thaddeus Cathedral is located on the outskirts of Chaldoran, near the village of Qara-Kelissa. Besides being a religious site with a particular significance among Christians, particularly Armenians, this large church (monastery) is also a rare and valuable monument in architectural and artistic terms.

St. Thaddeus, also known as Jude Thaddeus or Jude Labbeus, was one of the apostles of Jesus Christ who traveled to Armenia, where he was later killed and upon whose grave the locals erected a small chapel in AD 301. The cathedral is known as Qara-kelissa ('Black church' in Turkish) to the locals, owing to the appearance of its western section. In 1329, the church was reconstructed in its present form after an earthquake destroyed the structure in 1319.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Armenian Monastic Ensembles in Iran
Name as inscribed on the World Heritage List
Saint Thaddeus Monastery (Qara Kelissa), Chaldoran. Believed by some to have been first built in AD 66 by Saint Jude. Local Armenians believe that he and Simon were both buried here.
Type	Cultural
Criteria	ii, iii, vi
Reference	1262
UNESCO region	Asia-Pacific
Inscription history
Inscription	2008 (32nd Session)

Churches in West Azerbaijan

Thirty-one churches are registered by the Cultural Heritage Organization of Iran in the province. Many of these are historical landmarks and unusually rich in heritage. Some of the more famous ones are listed as follows:^[30]

Armenian Churches

• Monastery of St. Thaddeus (Surp Tade Vank) - Maku - Karakelisa - Early Christianity (Renovated in 1329 and 1820)
• St. Sandukht (Surp Sandukht) Church - Maku - Karakelisa - 14th century
• St. Vardan (Surp Vardan) Church - Maku - Shaveran - 18th century
• Monastery of Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin Vank) - Maku - Baron (Dzor Dzor) - 1324
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Khoy - 1120
• Holy Cross of Christ (Surp Khatch Kristosi) Church - Khoy - Mahlazan - 1656
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Khoy - Ghris - 16th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Khoy - Fanai - 16th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Khoy - Dizeh - 18th century
• St. Sarkis the Commander (Surp Sarkis Zoravar) Church - Khoy - Var - 18th century
• St. James (Surp Hakop) Church - Khoy - Saeedabad - 18th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Salmas - Akhtekhaneh - 18th century
• St. James (Surp Hakop) Church - Salmas - Aslanik - 1886
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Salmas - Charik - 1203
• St. Sarkis the Commander (Surp Sarkis Zoravar) Church - Salmas - Drishk - 1400
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Salmas - Qalasar - 1806
• Sts. Paul-Peter (Surp Poghos-Petros) Church - Salmas - Qezeljeh
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Salmas - Qezeljeh - 1189
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Salmas - Haftvan - 18th century
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Salmas - Haftvan - 1652
• St. Thaddeus (Surp Tadevos) Church - Salmas - Haftvan - 13th century
• Sts. Paul-Peter (Surp Poghos-Petros) Church - Salmas - Haftvan
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Salmas - Khosrowabad - 1717
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Salmas - Goluzan - 18th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Salmas - Sheitanabad - 1708
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Salmas - Payajuk - 1751
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Salmas - Karabulagh
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Salmas - Hodar - 1813
• St. James (Surp Hakop) Church - Salmas - Kohneshahr - 1671
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Salmas - Kohneshahr - 1671
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Salmas - Kohneshahr - 1825
• St. Sarkis the Commander (Surp Sarkis Zoravar) Church - Salmas - Malham - 1711
• St. Vardan (Surp Vardan) Church - Salmas - Malham - 1724
• Holy Monks (Surp Chknavorats) Church - Salmas - Malham - 1796
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Salmas - Saramolk - 1758
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Salmas - Sarna - 1625
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Salmas - Savera - 18th century
• All Saviour (Surp Amenaprgitch) Church - Salmas - Zivajik - 1892
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Salmas - Kojamish - 1348
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Salmas - Ula
• St. Stephen (Surp Stepanos) Church - Urmia - 18th century
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Urmia - Balanej - 17th century
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Urmia - Badelbo - 18th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Urmia - Surmanabad - 18th century
• Holy Sign (Surp Nshan) Church - Urmia - Jamalabad - 18th century
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Urmia - Jamalabad - 18th century
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Urmia - Gardabad - 17th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Urmia - Ikiaghaj - 17th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Isalu - 17th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Karaguz - 18th century
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Urmia - Karagiz - 18th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Nakhichevan Tepe - 17th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Reihanabad - 17th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Sepurghan - 17th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Urmia - Sepurghan - 17th century
• St. Peter (Surp Petros) Church - Urmia - Karabagh - 1655
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Urmia - Adeh - 17th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Dizej Ala - 1820
• St. John (Surp Hovhannes) Church - Urmia - Khan Babakhan - 17th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Urmia - Kachilan - 17th century
• St. George (Surp Gevorg) Church - Urmia - Shirabad - 18th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Charbakhsh - 1882
• Sts. Paul-Peter (Surp Poghos-Petros) Church - Urmia - ChaharGushan - 18th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Rahava - 17th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Ballu - 17th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Urmia - Darbarud - 18th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Urmia - Kukia - 18th century
• Holy Mary (Surp Asdvadzadzin) Church - Urmia - Babarud - 18th century
• St. Sarkis (Surp Sarkis) Church - Miandoab - Taqiabad

Assyrian Churches

• Holy Mary (Mart Maryam) Church - Urmia - 1st century
• St. Cyriacus (Mar Kuryakus) Church - Urmia - 18th century
• Holy Mary (Mart Maryam) Church - Urmia - CharBakhsh - 5th century
• Holy Gabriel (Mar Gabriel) Church - Urmia - Ordushahi - 19th century
• St. Shalita (Mar Shalita) Church - Urmia - Shirabad - 19th century
• St. Joseph (Mar Yozef) Church - Urmia - Shirabad - 1897
• St. Sarkis (Mar Sargiz) Church - 5 km SW of Urmia - Seir - 5th century
• Holy Zion (Mar Sehyon) Church - 8 km E of Urmia - Golpashan
• St. George (Mar Gevargiz) Church - 8 km E of Urmia - Golpashan - 1905
• Holy Mary (Mart Maryam) Church - 8 km E of Urmia - Golpashan
• Sts. Peter-Paul (Mar Petros-Paulos) Church - 10 km E of Urmia - 8th century - believed to be built by Bukhtishu
• Holy Mary (Mart Maryam) Church - 32 km E of Urmia - Mavana
• St. Daniel (Mar Danial) Church - 25 km N of Urmia - Nazlu River - 5th century - destroyed in World War I, rebuilt
• St. John (Mar Yokhnah) Church - 45 km N of Urmia - Jamalabad - 5th century
• St. John (Mar Yokhnah) Church - 24 km N of Urmia - Adeh - 1901
• St. Sabrisho (Mar Sabrisho) Church - 30 km N of Urmia - Mushiabad - 1880
• St. George (Mar Gevargiz) Church - 35 km N of Urmia - Sepurghan - 1830
• St. John (Mar Yokhnah) Church - 40 km N of Urmia - Gavilan - 5th century
• St. John (Mar Yokhnah) Church - 40 km N of Urmia - Gavilan - 19th century
• St. Thomas (Mar Toma) Church - 30 km W of Urmia - Balulan - 7th century
• St. Cyriacus (Mar Kuryakus) Church - Salmas - Kohneshahr - 12th century
• St. James (Mar Yakob) Church - Salmas - Kohneshahr - 19th century
• St. Khinah (Mar Khinah) Church - Salmas - Sarna
• Holy Mary (Mart Maryam) Church - Salmas - Savera
• Vank - 2 km S of Salmas - Khosrowabad - 5th century - The Holy Cross of Jerusalem was kept here for a while.
• St. Sarkis (Mar Sargiz) Church - 2 km S of Salmas - Khosrowabad - 1869
• St. George (Mar Gevargiz) Church - 2 km S of Salmas - Khosrowabad - 1845
• Church - 12 km SW of Salmas - Akhtekhaneh - 1890
• St. Sarkis (Mar Sargiz) Church - 2 km S of Salmas - Khosrowabad - 1869

In 2008, UNESCO selected a group of these religious structures as part of the Armenian Monastic Ensembles in Iran World Heritage Site.^[31]

West Azerbaijan today

The city of Urmia has a higher standard of living in comparison with the other cities of the province. There are plenty of parks, coffee shops, cinemas, and internet cafes throughout. There are hundreds of small villages in the province, most of which have running water and electricity as well as television, satellite, and telephone lines. Southern cities which economically are considered poor areas have always been the venue of Kurdish demonstrators against the Islamic regime.

West Azerbaijan Province is one of the most important provinces for Iran's agriculture.

Iran's Minister of Energy, Parviz Fattah, is from Urmia.

Culture

West Azerbaijan possesses a rich culture, stemming from Azeri and Kurdish traditions. Many local traditions, such as music and dance, continue to survive among the peoples of the province. As a longstanding province of Persia, West Azerbaijan is mentioned favorably on many occasions in Persian literature by Iran's greatest authors and poets:

گزیده هر چه در ایران بزرگان
زآذربایگان و ری و گرگان

All the nobles and greats of Iran,
Choose from Azerbaijan, Ray, and Gorgan.
—Vis o Ramin

از آنجا بتدبیر آزادگان
بیامد سوی آذرآبادگان

From there the wise and the free,
set off to Azerbaijan
—Nizami

بیک ماه در آذرآبادگان
ببودند شاهان و آزادگان

For a month's time, The Kings and The Free,
Would choose in Azerbaijan to be
—Firdowsi

Colleges and universities

Urmia University was first built by an American Presbyterian missionary in 1878. A medical faculty was also established there headed by Joseph Cochran and a team of American medical associates. Cochran and his colleagues were buried in an old cemetery in the vicinity of Urmia. Urmia University website says this about them:

"There they lie in peace away from their homeland, and the testimonial epitaphs on their tombs signify their endeavor and devotion to humanity."

The province today has the following major institutes of higher education:

1. Urmia University
2. Urmia University of Medical Sciences
3. Urmia University of Technology
4. Islamic Azad University of Urmia
5. Islamic Azad University of Salmas
6. Islamic Azad University of Khoi
7. Islamic Azad University of Piranshahr
8. Payame Noor University of Piranshahr
9. Islamic Azad University of Mahabad

References

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to West Azerbaijan province.

• Piranshahr-ag.ir
• Official website of West Azerbaijan Governor’s Office
• West Azerbaijan’s Government Portal
• Urmia sport news agency
• West Azerbaijan Provincial Management Organization
• West Azerbaijan Cultural Heritage Organization
• Recent photos from Azerbaijan
• Lake Urmia UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
• About Urmia

	Turkey	Turkey Azerbaijan	Azerbaijan
	Turkey		East Azerbaijan Province
	West Azerbaijan Province
	Iraq	Kurdistan Province	Zanjan Province

v t e West Azerbaijan Province List of cities, towns and villages in West Azerbaijan Province Capital Urmia Counties and cities Bukan County Bukan Simmineh Chaldoran County Siah Cheshmeh Avajiq Chaypareh County Qarah Zia od Din Khoy County Khoy Firuraq Ivughli Mahabad County Mahabad Maku County Maku Bazargan Miandoab County Miandoab Baruq Chahar Borj Naqadeh County Naqadeh Mohammadyar Oshnavieh County Oshnavieh Nalus Piranshahr Piranshahr Gerd Kashaneh Poldasht County Poldasht Salmas County Salmas Tazeh Shahr Sardasht County Sardasht Mirabad Rabat Shahin Dezh County Shahin Dezh Keshavarz Mahmudabad Showt County Showt Takab County Takab Urmia County Urmia Nushin Qushchi Serow Silvaneh Tourism Ghoutour Bridge Teppe Hasanlu Takht-e Soleymān Lake Urmia Bastam Citadel Zarriné-Rūd St. Thaddeus Monastery Baghchejogh museum and palace Segonbad

v t e Provinces of Iran Alborz Ardabil Bushehr Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari East Azerbaijan Isfahan Fars Gilan Golestan Hamadan Hormozgan Ilam Kerman Kermanshah Khuzestan Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Kurdistan Lorestan Markazi Mazandaran North Khorasan Qazvin Qom Razavi Khorasan Semnan Sistan and Baluchestan South Khorasan Tehran West Azerbaijan Yazd Zanjan