Tarbuck knot

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Tarbuck knot
Category Running
Efficiency 32%
Origin modern
Related Hangman's knot, noose
Releasing Non-jamming
Typical use Climbing (obsolete)
Caveat The knot grips adequately, but under sudden stress will slide to a limited extent thus reducing shock loading.

The Tarbuck knot was developed by Kenneth Tarbuck for use by climbers, and was primarily used with stranded nylon ropes before the advent of kernmantle ropes made this use both unnecessary and unsafe.[1] It is used when the rope is subject to heavy or sudden loads, as it will slide to a limited extent thus reducing shock. The knot is non-jamming.

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