Patrick Edlinger
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Name | Patrick Edlinger |
| Nationality | French |
| Born |
15 June 1960 Dax |
| Died |
16 November 2012 La Palud-sur-Verdon |
| Climbing career | |
| Type of climber | Sport climbing, bouldering |
| Highest grade | |
| Known for | Pioneer of sport climbing |
| Achievements and titles | |
| World finals |
|
| Updated on 15 May 2013. | |
Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French free climber. He died in his home at La Palud-sur-Verdon in 2012.[1][2][3][4][5][6][7]
Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing.[8]
Biography
In 1983 he made the first ascent of Ça Glisse Au Pays des Merveilles at Buoux, one of the first 8a (5.13b) in France.[9] He won some of the first climbing competitions in history: Sportroccia in 1986, Rock Master and Snowbird in 1988.[10][11]
He is also known to the world for his films on soloing in the steep, 1,500-foot Verdon. "Le Blond" had a smooth and beautiful style of climbing that lent itself to film. He became famous in 1982 after La Vie au bout des doigts, a documentary by Jean-Paul Janssen depicting him free-soloing in Buoux.[12]
Climbs
The following list is a summary of his notable ascents:[8][13]
- 8c/5.14b:
- 8b+/5.14a:
- Asymptote – Saint-Crépin (FRA) – 1989 – Second ascent of Antoine Le Menestrel's route (1987)
- Les spécialistes – Verdon (FRA) – 1989 – Second ascent of Jean-Baptiste Tribout's route (1987)
- Are you Ready? – Châteauvert (FRA) – 1988 – First ascent
- 8b/5.13d:
- Les sucettes à l'anis – Cimaï (FRA) – 1988 – First ascent
- 8a+/5.13c:
- La Femme Blanche – Céüse (FRA) – 1985
- La Boule – Sainte-Victoire (FRA) – 1984 – First ascent
- 8a/5.13b:
- 7c/5.12d:
References
- ↑ "Patrick Edlinger: The highs and lows of France’s pioneering rock god". The Independent. 1 December 2012.
- ↑ "Patrick Edlinger obituary". The Guardian. 10 December 2012.
- ↑ "Patrick Edlinger". The Daily Telegraph. 28 November 2012.
- ↑ "Escalade : Patrick Edlinger est mort". Le Dauphiné Libéré. 16 November 2012. Retrieved 17 November 2012.
- ↑ "Edlinger : mort d'un pionnier de l'alpinisme". Le Figaro. 16 November 2012. Retrieved 17 November 2012. "Né à Dax en 1960, Edlinger était devenu célèbre après le film "La Vie au bout des doigts", réalisé par Jean-Paul Janssen, qui avait connu un succès retentissant en 1982"
- ↑ "Patrick Edlinger, pionnier de l'escalade à mains nues". Le Monde. 2 November 2012. Retrieved 24 November 2012. "Avant lui, l'escalade n'était qu'une section de l'alpinisme. Il lui a permis de conquérir son autonomie et ses lettres de noblesse à une époque où les murs de varappe urbains n'existaient pas."
- ↑ "Emotion après la mort de Patrick Edlinger, figure marquante de l'escalade". Libération. 17 November 2012. Retrieved 17 November 2012. "Patrick Edlinger qui avait effectué à mains nues et parfois même sans être assuré plusieurs ascensions dans les Gorges du Verdon au début des années 80, fut l'un des pionniers de "l'escalade libre" de haut niveau"
- ↑ 8.0 8.1 "Adieu Patrick Edlinger". planetmountain.com. 17 November 2012. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
- ↑ Semet, Matt (2011). The Climbing Dictionary. The Mountaineers Books. p. 204.
- ↑ "Deseret News", 'French Dominate Climbing Meet at Snowbird", 13 June 1988.
- ↑ "Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger". planetmountain.com. 19 November 2012. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
- ↑ "documentaire de Gilles Chappaz sur le grimpeur Patrick Edlinger. Le temps n'a pas de prise sur Edlinger". Libération. 14 June 1997. Retrieved 17 November 2012.
- ↑ "Ha muerto Patrick Edlinger" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 16 November 2012. Retrieved 15 May 2013.
- ↑ Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, Bob Godfrey (2002). Climb!: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado. The Mountaineers Books. p. 250.
- ↑ "French Advantages – Part II. The short history of rock climbing 1980–1990". climbandmore.com. Retrieved 15 May 2013.
External links
- Patrick Edlinger, Berhault and the climbing game on Vimeo (Video interview during Trento Film Festival 2009)