Hans Christian Doseth

The Trango Towers in northern Pakistan

Hans Christian Doseth (December 10, 1958 in Romsdal, Norway – August 6, 1984 in Pakistan) was a Norwegian climber.^[1] Among his achievements were several first ascents of routes on Trollveggen (Troll Wall), Romsdal's north facing big wall, both in winter and summer. He did the first all-free ascent of the wall in 1979 (the "Rimmon Route"), and the first winter ascent of the "Swedish Route" (1980). Most notable was his first ascent of the technically difficult "Trollkjerringruta" (the Troll's Wife) ^[2] in winter (1982), followed by the free ascent in summer 1983. Though moderately graded by today’s standards (Norw. grade 7, French grade 6c+), it is a demanding, serious climb through partly loose and poorly protected rock that up to this day has seen only two or three repeats. Doseth also increased awareness of sport climbing in Northern Europe, introducing routes in the 5.12 range (French 7b/c) in Norway and Sweden in the early 80s.

Doseth was killed together with his climbing partner Finn Dæhli^[1] during an expedition with Stein P. Aasheim and Dag Kolsrud on Great Trango Tower (6286 m) in Karakoram, Pakistan, after establishing the Norwegian Buttress,^[3] the first route to scale the massive east face of the mountain.

References

1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 Stein P. Aasheim, Fabio Palma Senza ritorno. Hans Christian Doseth, Italian, Alpine Studio, June 2010, EAN 9788896822029, ISBN 978-88-96822-02-9
2. ↑ Troll Wall, Bigwalls.net
3. ↑ Norwegians repeat historic Trango route - Climbing magazine

External links

• Article from High Sport Magazine (in Swedish)

Literature

• Bø, Bjarte and Anne Grete Nebell, Klatring i Romsdal, 1999.
• Stein P. Aasheim, Trango – triumf og tragedie, Scanbok, 1985