Guimarães

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Guimarães
City
Clockwise from top left:Guimarães Castle, A chimneys at Dukes Braganza Palace, Statue of Dom Afonso Henriques in Ducal Palace, Oliveira Plaza, Panorama view of Guimarães historical heritage area from Mount Penha, Santa Maria Street, Santiago Plaza

Flag

Seal
Guimarães
Coordinates: 41°27′N 8°18′W / 41.450°N 8.300°W / 41.450; -8.300
Country  Portugal
Region Norte
Subregion Ave
District Braga
Municipality Guimarães
City c.1096
Government
  Type LAU
Area
  Land 9.1 sq mi (23.5 km2)
Population (2001)
  Total 52,181
  Density 5,760/sq mi (2,223.9/km2)
Demonym Vimaranenses
Time zone GMT (UTC0)
  Summer (DST) BST (UTC+1)
Area code(s) +351 (Portugal) 253 (City)
Website www.cm-guimaraes.pt
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Historic Centre of Guimarães
Name as inscribed on the World Heritage List

Aerial view of the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza (From IPPAR)
Type Cultural
Criteria ii, iii, iv
Reference 1031
UNESCO region Europe and North America
Inscription history
Inscription 2001 (25th Session)
The Toural square in 1864.
The Toural square in 2009

Guimarães (Portuguese pronunciation: [ɡimɐˈɾɐ̃jʃ]) is a northern Portuguese city located in the district of Braga, in the Ave Subregion (one of the more industrialized subregions of the country), with a population of 52 181 inhabitants,[1] distributed throughout 20 parishes (freguesias in Portuguese), in an urban area of 23.5 square kilometres (9.1 sq mi) with a population density of 2,223.9/km².

It is the seat of a municipality with an area of 241.05 square kilometres (93.07 sq mi) and 162 636 inhabitants (2008), divided in 69 parishes. The municipality is bordered to the north by the municipality of Póvoa de Lanhoso, to the east by Fafe, to the south by Felgueiras, Vizela and Santo Tirso, to the west by Vila Nova de Famalicão and the northwest by Braga.

It is an historical city that had an important role in the formation of Portugal and it was settled in the 9th century, at which time it was called Vimaranes. This denomination might have had its origin in the warrior Vímara Peres, when he chose this area as the main government seat for the County of Portugal which he conquered for the Kingdom of Galicia.

Guimarães is one of the country's most important historical cities. Its historical center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it one of the largest tourist centers in the region.

The city is often referred to as the "birthplace of the Portuguese nationality" or "the cradle city" (Cidade Berço in Portuguese). This might be because the administrative seat of the County of Portugal was established there by Henry of Burgundy, or that it might also been the birthplace of Afonso I of Portugal, the first Portuguese king or because of the historical role of the city in the Battle of São Mamede (June 24, 1128), which had a tremendous importance in the formation of Portugal and was fought in the vicinity of the city, However, due to the needs of the Reconquista, the governative center was changed to Coimbra in 1129. The "Vimaranenses" are also called "Conquistadores" (the Conquerors) in relation with the historical heritage of the conquest initiated in Guimarães.

Guimarães, jointly with Maribor, Slovenia, was the European Capital of Culture in 2012.

History

The Oliveira square, in the historical center of Guimarães, with the Padrão do Salado on the left

The city of Guimarães is historically associated with the foundation and identity of the Portuguese nationality. Guimarães, among other settlements, precedes the foundation of Portugal and because of its role in the foundation of the country it is known as the "cradle of the Portuguese nationality". In 1128, major political and military events that would lead to the independence and the birth of a new nation took place in Guimarães. For this reason, in one of the old towers of the city's old wall it is written "Aqui nasceu Portugal" (Portugal was born here).

Pre and Proto-History

The area in which Guimarães is integrated had permanent settlements since the Chalcolithic. In its municipality this can be witnessed by the Citânia (Castro) of Briteiros and Sabroso and archeologic station of Penha.

The Ara of Trajan hints the use of village of Caldas das Taipas as a spa town by the Romans.

From the foundation of Guimarães to the foundation of Portugal

Statue of Mumadona Dias, in front of the city court.

After the political actions of the Reconquista organized by the Kingdom of Galicia in the 9th century, the medieval foundations of the actual city have roots in the 10th century. At this point, the Countess Mumadona Dias, erected a monastery in her property of Vimaranes, which originated the fixation of people in the area known as "vila baixa" (downtown). At the same time, she ordered the construction of a castle on the hill area which became known as "vila alta" (uptown), to defend the settlement. To connect these to other areas, the Rua de Santa Maria was built.

The monastery became the "Real Colegiada" (Royal Collegiate church) and throughout time acquired importance due to the privileges and donations given to it by nobles and kings and it became a famous pilgrimage site.

Henry, Count of Portugal approved the first national foral possibly in 1096 (but not confirmed). The foral proves the growing importance of the village of Guimarães at that time, which was chosen as the capital of the County of Portugal.

On 24 June 1128, the "Batalha de São Mamede" (Battle of São Mamede) took place in Guimarães.

Middle Ages

During the reign of the king Denis, as the village was expanding, it was partially surrounded by defensive wall. In the meanwhile, mendicant orders got settled in Guimarães and helped to mold the shape of the city. Later, during the reign of John I the wall would be torn down and the two parts of the city (uptown and downtown) would be finally united and the city started to expand outside the city walls.

Modern and contemporary

Until the 19th century the structure of the city did not suffer many transformations besides the construction of a few more churches, convents and palaces. It was by the ending of the 19th century that new urbanistic ideas of hygiene and symmetry that the village, that was promoted to city by the Queen Maria II in 23 June 1853 had its greatest changes.

The complete demolition of the city walls was authorized and the creation of many streets and avenues could start at that point. The controlled process of urbanization permitted the conservation of the city's magnificent historical center.

Geography

Geology

Granite rock formations occupy the majority of the municipality but schist rocks can also be found in certain zones in the northwest of the municipality. On the southeast, clay can be found in stream bed of the Ave, Vizela and Selho rivers.

Orography and hydrography

Couros river, near Guimarães Youth Hostel

The municipality is delimited at north by the "Senhora do Monte" (Senhora hill), at northwest by the hills of Falperra, Sameiro, Outeiro and Penedice. To the south by the Penha hill which with height of 613 meters, it is the highest point of the municipality.

Guimarães is part of the drainage basin of Ave river which divides the municipality in half. The Ave river has as tibutaries the Vizela river, Torto river, Febras river and inside the city, the Selho river, the Couros river and the Santa Lúzia stream.

Climate

Guimarães is located in a valley and surrounded by hills and because there is some distance to the sea, the Winter is normally cold and rainy and the Summer is hot and lightly humid. The average annual temperature is 14 °C.

Fauna

Red-legged Partridge

There is not much diversity, specially in the urban areas, but the municipality has some species of cynegetic interest such as: the red fox, the wild boar, the turtle dove, the thrush, the pigeon and the red-legged partridge. In the green areas of the city, the most common species are rodents and squirrel.

Demographics

In 2001, the population of the municipality was 159 576. In 2010, it is estimated that the population will reach 188 178 inhabitants. The population is constituted by 78 436 males and 81 140 females. Guimarães is the 13th biggest city in the country in terms of population.

Evolution of the population of the municipality of Guimarães (1801–2011)
Evolution of the population in the city center (1864–2001)

Culture

Guimarães, is an average size city but with a booming cultural life. Besides its museums, monuments, cultural associations, art galeries and popular festivities, it has since September 2005, an important cultural space, the Vila Flor Cultural Center. This cultural center has two auditoria, exhibition center and a concert-cafe. Guimarães is the European Capital of Culture in 2012, together with Maribor.

Guimarães was elected by the New York Times one of the 41 places to go in 2011 and NYT called it one of the Iberian peninsula's emerging cultural spots.[2]

Gastronomy

Joanina fair in Guimarães, where old activities are recreated such as the production of meat "cake"

The fact that since its beginning, Guimarães had a feminine monastery made much influence over its regional gastronomy, specially its confectionery. "Tortas de Guimarães" (Guimarães' pies) and "Toucinho do céu" (normally translated as bacon from heaven) are a good example. Besides the customary Minho gastronomy, the so-called "meat" cake is made here, which is a kind of bread in a pizza shape served with pig, sardines or other toppings.

Traditions and festivities

  • "Festas Gualterianas" (Gualterianas fest), in honor of Saint Gualter, take place since 1906 in the first weekend of August. The "Cortejo do Linho" (Linen parade) and the "Batalha das Flores" (Battle of the Flowers) are part of the festivities which are ended by the "Marcha Gualteriana" (Gualteriana march).
  • "Nicolinas" are the festivities of the students of Guimarães, celebrated in honor of Saint Nicholas. The festivities start on the 29th of November and finish in the 7th of December. They are composed by different celebrations; the "Pinheiro" is the one with most attendance in which after a dinner in the citys' restaurants, the participants parade the streets of Guimarães playing the "Toques Nicolinos" tune on drums. Latelly, it has been suggested that the "Nicolinas" should be a contender to be UNESCO intangible cultural heritage.
  • The Santa Luzia festivities in honor of honor Saint Lucy take place annually in the 13th of December, near to the chapel of Santa Luzia. The selling of traditional cakes made of rye and sugar, which are called "Sardão" and "Passarinha" (these names have sexual connotations in Portuguese). According to the tradition, a boy should offer a "Sardão", which has a phallic form, to the girl and if the girl was interested in dating the boy, she should reply with a "Passarinha".
  • The "Big Romaria of São Torcato" is one of the biggest romarias in Minho, takes place annually in July in the village of São Torcato.

Museums, cultural spaces and art galleries

Centro Cultural Vila Flor

The city of Guimarães has several cultural spaces of reference at a regional and national level. Among the several museums of the city, the Alberto Sampaio museum is the one that stands out. Founded in 1928, it opened its doors to the public in 1931; it is located in the old site of the Canon the Collegiate of Our Lady of Oliveira (Cabido da Colegiada de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira in Portuguese). It contains a rich collection of pieces from the 14th, 15th and 16th century, including one rare vest that was used by the king John I.

Headquarters of the Martins Sarmento Society

The Martins Sarmento Society (Sociedade Martins Sarmento in Portuguese) is one of the country oldest institutions dedicated to the study and preservation of archaeological artifacts. The society owns two museums: the Archaeological Museum of the Martins Sarmento Society, which is known by its prehistory and protohistory collections and also its numismatics and epigraphy collections; and the Castro Culture Museum which is dedicated to the Castro culture.

There is also: the Primitive Modern Arts Museum, located in the Domus Municipalis (the old city hall), which contains a collection of naïve art; the Museum of the Village of São Torcato, which is dedicated to the region and its relationship with the monastery and Saint Torcato (São Torcato in Portuguese); the Agriculture Museum of Fermentões, which exhibits collections of the traditional agricultural practices of the region; and the Museum of São Sebastião, inaugurated on 24 March 1984, which contains mainly sacred art.

Other cultural venues include:

  • Vila Flor Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Vila Flor in Portuguese) is the main cultural venue in Guimarães. It was built in 2005, in a recovery of the old Vila Flor Palace and its surrounding area. It has two [Auditorium|auditoriums], a concert-cafe and an exhibition gallery. The surrounding gardens of the old palace were also redone and in 2006, received an honorable mention in the Public Exterior Spaces category in the National Landscape Architecture Award.
  • São Mamede - Guimarães Arts and Shows Center.
  • Raul Brandão Municipal Library has its headquarters in the city and also has branches in Pevidém, Caldas das Taipas and Ronfe. It offers its mobile library services to 42 parishes and services the city schools and prison.
  • The Art Laboratory (Laboratorio das Artes in Portuguese) was founded in 2004 by ESAP students. It is a cultural space for exhibitions, performances, music and art workshops.
  • Alfredo Pimenta National Archive, founded in 1931, contains the archives for municipality of Guimarães and also the Braga district.

Sports

Guimarães has a major sports club, Vitória Sport Clube, whose football (soccer) team has been the city's representative in the Primeira Liga for many years. Vitória SC also has volleyball and basketball squads competing in the top divisions of their sports.

Society

The Toural square church lighted up to celebrate the UNESCO Heritage status.

In 2008, the city ranked second in the index of most livable city in Portugal. It is also the second least polluted city in the country.

In 2004, 89% of the population had running water; it was forecast that the number would raise to 95% by 2006. In 2001, 63.5% of the population had basic sanitation; it was forecast that the number would raise to 80% by 2008. In 2001, 100% of the population had access to waste management services.

However, several people complain that the city, together with other cities of the Braga district has had an unaesthetic and unorganized growth.

Social media

Newspapers

Guimarães ranks fourth in the country for available newspapers. The oldest was the "Azemel Vimaranense", founded in 1822; it possibly had its publication halted by the Vilafrancada incidents. From 1856, other newspapers start to appear, amongst them "A Tesoura de Guimarães". Actually the citys' newspapers are:

  • O Comércio de Guimarães
  • O Cónego
  • O Conquistador
  • Desportivo de Guimarães
  • Entrevillas
  • O Expresso do Ave
  • Jornal do Adepto
  • Lordelo Jornal
  • O Pilar
  • O Povo de Guimarães
  • Notícias de Guimarães
  • Reflexo – O Espelho das Taipas]]
  • Sport Jornal dos Desportos

Radios

There are two stations headquartered in the town: Radio Fundação (95.8 FM) and Radio Santiago (98.0 FM).

Television

The Guimarães TV transmission is made online since 24 July 2007; it is the result of a collaboration between the city's assembly and the Guimarães Cybercenter. Its contents are feature in the Região Norte TV channel which is available through cable.

The "canalguimarães" is another online channel that started operating in March 2010. It is the fruit of the effort put in by an arts association, the "Associação de Socorros Mútuos Artística Vimaranense", one of the oldest associations of the city.

Transport

Guimarães is linked to Porto by the Guimarães line. This railway line was originally built with narrow gauge track, then modernised and rebuilt to the broad Iberian gauge in the first decade of the 21st century. The train service is operated by Comboios de Portugal (CP).

Locally, Guimarães is served by TUG (Transportes Urbanos de Guimarães) which operates 21 bus routes serving the city.

International relations

Twin towns – Sister cities

Guimarães is twinned with:

Notable People

  • João Sousa, Tennis player, first Portuguese player winning an ATP World Tour Tennis in Malaysia 2013
  • Abel Salazar, physician, professor, investigator, painter, opponent of the Estado Novo, worked and lived in Oporto and died in Lisbon
  • D. Afonso Henriques, first king of Portugal (by tradition, but birthplace is disputed with Coimbra e Viseu)
  • D. Agostinho Barbosa, bishop of Ugento
  • Alberto Sampaio, historian
  • Alberto Martins, minister
  • Alfredo Pimenta, writer and historian
  • António Lobo de Carvalho, satirical poet of the 18th century
  • Bernardo Pinheiro Correia de Melo, Count of Arnoso, writer and member of Vencidos da Vida
  • Conde de Agrolongo, industrial and philanthropist
  • Conde de Margaride, influential political and social personality
  • Domingos Castro, athlete, twin brother of athlete Dionísio Castro
  • Dionísio Castro, athlete, twin brother of athlete Domingos Castro
  • Duarte Freitas do Amaral, influential politician of the period of the Estado Novo
  • Elisabete Matos, lyrical singer
  • Emídio Guerreiro, founder of PSD
  • Francisco Martins Sarmento, archaeologist
  • Fernando Meira (born on 5 June 1978), last played for Real Zaragoza and former Portugal player.
  • Gil Vicente, playwright and goldsmith(?), although the city pays tribute in various ways, his place of birth is debatable
  • Guilherme de Faria, poet
  • João Baptista Felgueiras, magistrate, minister, 1st Attorney General of the Crown
  • Joaquim Santos Simões, not born in Guimarães, lived there since 1957
  • José de Guimarães, artist
  • Paio Galvão, Cardinal and master of theology
  • Pope Damasus I, (mith)
  • Pedro Mendes (born on 26 February 1979), currently playing for Vitória S.C. and Portugal.
  • Salvador Ribeiro de Sousa (ou Salvador Dias Ribeiro), soldier and adventurer que se ilustrou na Birmânia por volta de 1600 (natural do Couto de Ronfe)
  • Vieirinha (born on 24 January 1986), currently playing for Wolfsburg and Portugal.

External links

References

  1. http://www.dgotdu.pt/PresentationLayer/ResourcesUser/DGOTDU/EstudosNaoPublicados/Guimaraes/GUIMARAES.pdf
  2. Wilder, Charly "The New York Times", January 09, 2011
  3. "Lisboa - Geminações de Cidades e Vilas" [Lisbon - Twinning of Cities and Towns]. Associação Nacional de Municípios Portugueses [National Association of Portuguese Municipalities] (in Portuguese). Retrieved 2013-08-23. 
  4. "Acordos de Geminação, de Cooperação e/ou Amizade da Cidade de Lisboa" [Lisbon - Twinning Agreements, Cooperation and Friendship]. Camara Municipal de Lisboa (in Portuguese). Retrieved 2013-08-23. 

Coordinates: 41°27′N 8°18′W / 41.450°N 8.300°W / 41.450; -8.300

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