Dōtonbori

Dōtonbori typifies the flamboyance of Osaka.

Dōtonbori canal during the daytime

Dōtonbori in the 1930s

Dōtonbori (道頓堀, pronounced [doːtomboɽi]) is one of the principal tourist destinations in Osaka, Japan. It is a single street, running alongside the Dōtonbori canal between the Dōtonboribashi Bridge and the Nipponbashi Bridge in the Namba ward of Osaka. A former pleasure district, Dōtonbori is famous for its historic theatres (all gone now), its shops and restaurants, and its many neon and mechanised signs, including snack/candy manufacturer Glico's giant electronic display of a runner crossing the finish line.

History

Dōtonbori traces its history back to 1612, when a local entrepreneur, Yasui Dōton, began expanding the tiny Umezu River, which ran east to west, hoping to increase commerce in the region by connecting the two branches of the Yokobori River, which ran north to south, with a canal. Dōton’s project was interrupted when he died defending Toyotomi Hideyori in the ill-fated Siege of Osaka, but his cousins finished the canal in 1615. The new lord of Osaka Castle, Tadaki Matsudaira, named the canal and avenue beside it Dōtonbori ("bori" from "hori", meaning "canal"), even though Doton had been on the losing side during the siege.

The character of Dōtonbori became defined in 1621 when the newly minted Tokugawa Shogunate instituted urban planning, designating Dōtonbori as the entertainment district of Osaka. By 1662 the avenue boasted six Kabuki theatres and five Bunraku theatres, as well as the unique Takeda Karakuri mechanical puppet theatre. Many restaurants and cafes were built to cater to the flood of tourists and entertainment-seekers pouring nightly into Dōtonbori.

Over the years, declining interest in traditional forms of entertainment led to the closing of most of Dōtonbori's original attractions. Its five remaining theatres were bombed and destroyed during World War II.

Restaurants

As a domestic tourist destination, Osaka is known for its food, and Dōtonbori is the main destination for food travel in Osaka. It is always featured in guidebooks for both foreign and domestic tourists.

Osaka regional cuisine includes okonomiyaki (pan-fried batter cake), takoyaki (octopus dumplings), udon (a noodle dish), as well as regional sushi and other traditional Japanese foods.

Kuidaore

Kuidaore (食い倒れ) is a Japanese word meaning roughly “to ruin oneself by extravagance in food.” It is sometimes romanised as cuidaore, and is part of a larger proverb: "Dress (in kimonos) till you drop in Kyoto, eat till you drop in Osaka" (京の着倒れ、大阪の食い倒れ).

The word is associated with Dōtonbori, and is often used in tourist guides and advertisements. It can be seen in the names of several locations in Dōtonbori, such as the mascot Kuidaore Taro and the defunct restaurant Cui-daore.

Restaurants of note

• Kinryu Ramen: There are three Kinryu (Golden Dragon) Ramen restaurants in Dōtonbori, one at each end of the street and one in the middle. The chain is notable for its giant three-dimensional golden dragon billboards, as well as its outdoor seating consisting of tatami mats. Unlike many Japanese restaurants, Kinryu Ramen is open 24 hours, and offers a free garlic and kimchi bar.

• Kani Doraku: A crab restaurant, easily identified by its giant moving crab billboard.

• Otakoya: A popular takoyaki stand.

• Zubora-ya: A fugu restaurant with a huge blowfish lantern hanging out front.

• Dōtonbori Ramen Taishokudo: A ramen restaurant formed by eight famous ramen shops from across Japan.

• Hariju: A beef restaurant from 1924.They use only Japanese beef. One of the more famous beef restaurants.

• Cui-daore, a massive eight-storey restaurant with a different Osaka cuisine on each floor, was a self-proclaimed contender for the title of the world’s largest restaurant. However, it ceased operations and closed on 8 July 2008.^[1][2]

Landmarks

• Glico Man: Originally installed in 1935, the giant neon athlete on a blue track is a symbol of Glico candy. The sign has been altered on several occasions to celebrate events such as the World Cup and to show support for the Osaka baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers.

• Kuidaore Taro: In front of Cui-daore is a mechanical drum-playing clown, also known as the Kuidaore Ningyo, installed in 1950. Every March the visiting rikishi for the Osaka Grand Sumo tournament used to line up with Kuidaore Taro for photos. Now that the restaurant has closed, Kuidaore Taro has been moved to a new location slightly east of his old haunt.

• Kani Doraku Crab: This six and a half meter crab is on the front of the crab restaurant Kani Doraku. It is mechanised, being able to move its arms and eyestalks. Built in 1960, this mechanical billboard soon spawned imitations, including a squid that puffs steam and oni (demons) that light up at night.

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  Kuidaore Taro

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  Kani Doraku Crab

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  Blowfish lantern of Zubora-ya

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  Glico Man sign

Bridges

(Note: '-bashi' is the Japanese suffix for 'bridge.')

Motor vehicles cross the canal by way of either Dōtonboribashi (part of Midosuji Avenue) on one side or Nipponbashi (part of Sakaisuji Avenue) on the other, flanking the west and east of the main Dōtonbori district. In between are several footbridges connecting the Namba and Shinsaibashi shopping districts to Dōtonbori, such as Tazaemonbashi and Aiaibashi.

Ebisubashi

A "swimming prohibited" sign of Dōtonbori.

Ebisubashi is just under the Glico Man billboard. Originally constructed to provide access to the nearby Ebisu Shrine, the bridge is the location of a legendary curse on Osaka's baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers. More practically, the bridge provides a link between the Shinsaibashi-suji and Ebisubashi-suji shopping districts.

Due to the familiarity of the Glico Man, Ebisubashi makes for a convenient gathering point, hence its nicknames, nanpa-bashi, mostly used by foreigners, and hikkake-bashi ("the pulling bridge"), mostly used by native Japanese.

See also

• Shinsaibashi and Amerikamura, Osaka
• Tourism in Japan

External links

Media related to Dotonbori at Wikimedia Commons

• Dotonbori Street "Virtual Tourist"
• Dotonbori Shopkeepers, "This is DOHTONBORI"

34°40′07″N 135°28′50″E / 34.668507°N 135.480684°E / 34.668507; 135.480684 Mouth of Dōtonbori canal 34°40′07″N 135°30′05″E / 34.668708°N 135.501308°E / 34.668708; 135.501308Coordinates: 34°40′07″N 135°30′05″E / 34.668708°N 135.501308°E / 34.668708; 135.501308 Ebisubashi-Minamidume Intersection

Notes

References

• Davisson, Zack, Osaka InfoGuide, Japan, Carter Witt Media, 2006 (English language tourist guide. Pg. 20-23 have detailed article on Dōtonbori, including history and culture. The majority of this article comes from this tourist guide.)
• Kinoshita, June, Gateway to Japan, USA, Kodansha International, 1998, ISBN 4-7700-2018-X (pg. 608-609, Short section on areas of interest in Namba district)
• Brand New Osaka (2005) "History of Dotonbori". (Short section on the history of Doton Yasui.)link
• Japan National Tourist Association "Dotonbori" . (About the culture of Dōtonbori)link
• Seattle Times (30 November 2005) "10 great moments in baseball superstition history".link (#6 is the Curse of the Colonel)
• AP Worldstream (18 September 2003) "Japanese man drowns during baseball pennant celebrations".link (News article on the death of Masaya Shitababa)