Chester Barrie

Chester Barrie are a semi-bespoke gentleman's tailor located at No19 Savile Row, London.

Founded in 1935 by expatriate English tailor Simon Ackerman, and presently owned by Prominent Europe. The company provides ready-to-wear clothes, as well as bespoke tailoring.

History

At the turn of the 20th century, Englishman Simon Ackerman left England for New York City. Having built up a high-priced, quality tailoring business in and around New York, in 1935 he decided that he wanted to import quality British-made suits for the US market.^[1]

Returning to London in 1935, he started producing suits from a shop on Savile Row in London in 1937. Ackerman, as well as offering bespoke tailoring, introduced ready-to-wear suits,^[2] popular in the United States as they greatly reduced purchase cost and delivery time scales. While the rest of Savile Row was still wholly bespoke, Chester Barrie were quickly equalling the volume of suits sold by every other tailor on Savile Row.

Suits for export had the button holes un-finished, where by sending them back to the United States unfinished thus avoided the import duty. In 1938 Ackerman returned to the United States, placing his son Myron in charge of the British business.^[1]

As the business expanded, Ackerman knew he needed to develop a factory, and resultantly concluded that he needed a distinctly British brand to carry the larger volume. At that time the Port of Liverpool was the main point of shipment for goods to the United States, and so Ackerman decided that the manufacturing side of his business should be based in the North West England. Choosing Crewe in Cheshire, close to the mills he used in Huddersfield, the factory opened in Chestnut Grove under the brand Chester Barrie, based on combining:^[1]

• Chester, the city and county town of the location he choose for his factory
• Barrie, the surname of children's fiction writer J. M. Barrie, who wrote Peter Pan

By now, World War II was in its early stages, and the factories production turned to the war effort, picking up a contract to produce uniforms for the US Army in Europe,^[1] after the United States entered the war post the attack on Pearl Harbour.

Post-war, business picked up, and in 1949 the factory moved into no longer needed sections of the Rolls-Royce Crewe factory, which itself had been constructed pre-war as a shadow factory to mass-produce the Rolls-Royce Merlin engine. The new capacity allowed the firm to expand, including supplying its product to Harrods after Myron sent his own sales people in initially to promote the product.^[1]

Ackerman was very wise in his promotional activity, engaging popular movie stars inclduing Cary Grant and popular figures including Sir Winston Churchill, backing this up with practical and relatively affordable style. Having sold across Europe and the former Commonwealth Empire since 1955, in 1961 the company moved to a new factory in Crewe, to allow the Bentley Motors business to expand.

In 1978, the Ackerman family sold the business to the Austin Reed Group, by which time the business was employing 470 people, selling to Harrods, Selfridges, Turnbull & Asser and Saks Fifth Avenue, in Manhattan, New York.^[3] Austin Reed started using the factory to produce a number of other brands beside Chester Barrie, and from 1981 started to produce the ready-to-wear stock for fellow Savile Row tailor H. Huntsman. In 1989 the company won the Queen's Award for Export Achievement, and in 1998 started making the purple label suits for Polo Ralph Lauren.^[4]

Present

As the dot.com boom decline hit world markets, the demand for bespoke suits declined. In financial troubles, Austin Reed sold the loss-making Chester Barrie business to Thomson Holdings in 2000. After the business went in receivership in 2002, the Crewe factory sold to former management, trading as the Cheshire Clothing Company, who later move to a brand new factory.^[3] SRG Group plc acquired the Chester Barrie Brand and worldwide licensing rights, and engage CCC to manufacture top-end bespoke suits.^[2]

In 2006, CCC itself went into receivership and closed. A new independent manufacturing company was formed in Crewe, Cheshire Bespoke, who again widened their manufacturing offering to supply ranges for brands including Ozwald Boateng.^[5]

In 2007, the ownership of the Chester Barrie brand and worldwide licensing rights were sold to Prominent Europe, who continue the relationship with Cheshire Bespoke.^[6]

All Chester Barrie cutting is still done by hand, although to average measurements rather than a pattern designed for the individual customer.^[2] This enables Chester Barrie to still supply bespoke and semi-bespoke suits under the brand in Savile Row and some other selected outlets supplied from Chester Bespoke.

Chester Barrie currently also have multiple concessions in selected House Of Fraser departmental stores, where they offer their ready-to-wear tailoring but also a Made To Measure service, taking their brand outside of London to the wider public. The selected House Of Fraser stores which hold a Chester Barrie department are: Belfast, Cheltenham, Glasgow, Guildford, London City, Manchester, Norwich and Reading.

Timeline

• 1935 Simon Ackerman returns to set up business in London
• 1937 Opened first Chester Barrie store on Savile Row
• 1938 Myron Ackerman, Simon's son is despatched to run the business in the UK
• 1939 Chester Barrie opened its first wholly owned factory on Chestnut Grove, Crewe.
• 1941 World War II, Chester Barrie makes uniforms for American officers
• 1949 Chester Barrie opened a larger factory shared with the Rolls Royce Company
• 1950 Begin selling to Harrods and Austin Reed. Harrods originally rejected the brand for being too expensive but Myron Ackerman sent his own staff to work in store and the suits sold extremely well.
• 1955 Started selling across Commonwealth countries (Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, etc.) and Europe (notably France, Sweden and Belgium)
• 1961 Chester Barrie moved to a new purpose built factory in Crewe to keep up with demand.
• 1978 Business sold to the Austin Reed Group. By then Chester Barrie was employing over 470 people. Selling to Harrods, Selfridges, Turnbull & Asser and Saks Fifth Avenue, New York^[3]
• 1981 Chester Barrie gained recognition from founders of Savile Row, when H. Huntsman ordered their first ready-to-wear stock from Chester Barrie.
• 1989 Won the Queen's Award for Export Achievement
• 1998 Starts making purple label suits for Polo Ralph Lauren.^[4]
• 2000 bought by Thomson Holdings
• 2002 Goes into receivership. Crewe factory sold to former management, trading as the Cheshire Clothing Company, who later move to brand new factory.^[3] SRG Group plc acquires the Chester Barrie Brand and worldwide licensing rights, and engage CCC to manufacture top-end bespoke suits, while others are outsourced to Far East
• 2006 CCC goes into receivership and closes. New independent manufacturing company formed in Crewe, Cheshire Bespoke, who now widen offering to cover ranges for brands including Ozwald Boateng,^[5]
• 2007 Chester Barrie business and brands sold to Prominent Europe, who continue relationship with Cheshire Bespoke.^[6]

References

External links

• Company website
• Cheshire Bespoke