A hair weave is a very general term used to describe human or artificial hair used to alter one's natural hair appearance by adding additional hair to one's natural hair or by covering the natural hair all together with human or synthetic hair pieces.
Some of the benefits of hair weaves are that they can lengthen hair, add volume and/or thickness to fine or thinning hair, add fashion colors to natural hair without the damage of chemicals, or change the user's appearance by adopting a different hair texture than that of their natural hair. Since the 1990s, weaves have been particularly popular among African American women opting for a straight-hair look. However, other races and cultures wear weave too. [1] The process of adding colors to natural hair is usually done with strand-by-strand extension systems. One type of application is called a sew-in. Weft hair can also be applied by gluing directly to the natural hair using hair glue specifically made for hair weaves. The glue can be easily washed out using a special shampoo/conditioner that will remove the glue without removing the real hair. A special glue remover may also be used.
Extension hair refers to the weave hair being applied strand by strand rather than in long, sewn-together rows. Strand-by-strand hair has approximately 50-80 strands attached by keratin tips resembling the end of a shoe string. These can then be attached by bonding directly to the hair or using copper links, which provides the most natural look. The method is the most time-consuming, as between 100 to 300 individual extensions are applied. The amount of time necessary makes this type of application a more expensive service than other options. Other types of extensions include ponytails or ponytail pieces. Just like any wig or wigpiece, the colors for hair to be weaved can range from "realistic" colors, such as black, red, brown, and blonde, to colors such as pink, blue, green, and purple.
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Non-remy hair is perhaps the most popular and commonly available form of hair. It is also known as fallen hair. The roots and tips of hairs are all mixed up in non-remy hair; tangling is therefore a problem as the opposing cuticle layers catch on each other, but as the most inexpensive type of hair, it is the best seller.
Non-remy hair comes in two types:
Single drawn is of a slightly lower quality than double-drawn hair. The hairs will have up to a 2" difference in the tips; that is, some hairs will be up to 2" shorter than their original lengths. Double drawn hair is similar to remy double drawn wefts in that all hairs are the same length.
Three qualities are designated:
Synthetic hair is made of a wide array of different synthetic fibers. Synthetic hair, just like human hair, comes in weave (weft) and single strands (bulk) for braids. Synthetic hair does not last as long as human hair because it gets quickly damaged by friction, and heat. The quality of hair varies greatly, and if well maintained, synthetic hair can last up to a year. Depending on quality, it may never look like human hair, as it can be stiff and move differently than human hair. Synthetic hair is much less expensive than human hair. The costs can range from $1 to $10 per package of loose braiding hair and $10 to $20 per package of wefted hair, and around $40-$300 for a full wig, depending on quality of hair, length, brand, etc.
Heating appliances such as curling irons and straightening combs generally should never be used on most types of synthetic hair. There are newer versions of synthetic hair from some brands that can be heat styled, know your supplier, and keep a strand to test before you install, to check temperature setting on your heat tool.
Typically when the synthetic hair is shaped it is best not to change it unless you are experienced in how to manipulate synthetic hair.
The hair shaft is made up of dead, hard protein, called keratin, in three layers. The inner layer is called the medulla and may not be present. The next layer is the cortex and the outer layer is the cuticle. The cortex makes up the majority of the hair shaft. The cuticle is formed by tightly packed scales in an overlapping structure similar to roof shingles. Most hair-conditioning products attempt to affect the cuticle. There are pigment cells that are distributed throughout the cortex, giving the hair its characteristic color.
The cuticle is a hard shingle-like layer of overlapping cells, some five to twelve deep, formed from dead cells that form scales which give the hair shaft strength and protect the inner structure of the hair. The hair cuticle is the first line of defense against all forms of damage; it acts as a protective barrier for the softer inner structures, including the medulla and cortex.
The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber. A healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer, as the cuticle also controls the water content of the fiber. Much of the shine that makes healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle.
In the hair industry, the only way to obtain the very best hair (with cuticle intact and facing the same direction) is to use the services of "hair collectors," who cut the hair directly from people's heads, and bundle it as ponytails. This hair is called virgin cuticle hair, or just cuticle hair.
Most human hair used for weaves and wigs is obtained from Asia (perhaps most often China, India, and Korea).[2] It is collected from barbers' floors or Indian temple floors and aggressively treated with acid and other chemicals. These chemicals destroy the cuticle partly or totally. (Lower-quality "human hair" extensions are sometimes even mixed with animal and synthetic hair to lower the price, but this is rare, and uncommon.) In the hair industry, this hair is commonly called stripped hair.
The "remy" designation originally meant that the cuticles face the direction in which they grew, but this description is no longer accurate. The word "remy" is being abused on the market, and generally accompanies processed packaged hair.
Indian hair has its own inherent advantages: it is simultaneously thin and strong. The hair comes most often from people who have had their heads shaved for religious purposes in Tirupati, India. Indian hair is typically available as Remi Virgin hair or Remi hair.
The highest-quality extension hair is Indian human remy hair. Remy hair still possesses the cuticle layer, which is the outermost part of the hair strand; it resembles shingles on a roof. All remy hair has the cuticle layer of the hair flowing in the same direction, flowing the way it would naturally. The cuticle layer is important when concerned with hair tangling, longevity of the use(up to one year), and how well the hair shines. When the cuticle layer is intact and lying flat, the hair is capable of reflecting light, so that the hair shines.
European hair is a popular form of hair. It has a straight and soft texture. Adequate care must be taken as the market is flooded with fakes.
Bonding is a popular temporary weaving method and a great way to add volume or vibrant streaks of color to your natural hair. Tracks of hair are glued to the roots of your own hair with a special adhesive. To prevent damage to your natural hair, tracks shouldn't be left for any longer than a week or two. Bonding may also refer to the attachment of toupees (and custom wigs) with a medical grade adhesive. There are 2 types of bonds: soft bond which dries in the consistency of rubber glue and hard bond which dries to the consistency of epoxy glue. Hard bond is only recommended for the small number of people for which soft bond does not hold properly. These permanent bond attachments generally last 4–6 weeks before a maintenance appointment is necessary.
In administrator or sewn in methods, natural tresses are first braided into cornrows, and referred to as a "track". A weave can consist of a few tracks, or the whole head can be braided for a full head weave. With a full head weave, the braids are sewn down or covered with a net. Extensions are then sewn to the braids. The number of tracks depends on the desired look. Care for this style as you would your natural hair, washing at least once a week but making sure to dry the braids well, to avoid bacteria growth and odor.
To sew the weave hair, the stylist must first braid the hair into cornrows. The hair may also be braided into a zig-zag shape to make things easier and quicker. The wearer may leave out a section of hair if she or he wants a part or half the hair weaved. So the hair won't appear lumpy, the hair is sewn horizontally across the head from one side to the other, starting from the bottom. If the hair is to have a parting, it is recommended that a weft of hair be glued as close as possible to a part in the hair that separates the braids and the hair that the wearer left out. After those steps are finished, the wearer can have the weave hair cut or styled however she or he wants, with her or his own hair blending in.[3]
The fusion method delivers one of the most versatile and most natural-looking weaves on the market. Traditionally with this technique, a machine similar to a hot glue gun is used to adhere human hair extensions to individual strands of one's natural hair (1/8 to 1/4 inch squared sections) for a truly authentic look. You may also purchase hair which is pre-tipped with a keratin adhesive, and using a heat clamp, heat and melt the adhesive to attach the extension hair to the natural hair. With a fusion weave, you can wash your hair every few days- every week and use products like gels and mousse to style. This is one of the most time-consuming (4-8 hours) and expensive methods (prices range from about $800 to $1,800).
A full head could use about anywhere between 100-300 sections. It is recommended that a trained and certified stylist use this technique because of potential hair loss and possible burning of the skin by the appliance.
Recently, cold-fusion extensions made of 100% human hair have been introduced. These companies claim to use no heat, and therefore be less damaging, however the fusion is melted using radio-waves, much like a microwave. Correctly installed fusion uses less heat than a typical curling iron, and therefore damage with properly installed fusion should not be a concern.
NoBraids NoGlue is two pieces of thread are integrated into the natural tresses. Then the commercial hair is integrated into thread with two pieces of thread. It is based on "suspension bridge engineering": trusses and bridges are made with the thread. There is little damage with this technique because the stress is diffused throughout the foundation. This also means large sections of hair loss can easily be covered. It takes 45 minutes to 1 hour for a full head. Care for this style as you would your natural hair, washing at least every 7-14 days. Because there are no braids there are no lumps. The hair is sewn horizontally starting from the bottom. After these basic steps are finished, the wearer can pull the hair into a ponytail because all of her natural hair is out and blended in.
Netting is a technique which involves braiding natural tresses under a thin, breathable net that serves as a flat surface onto which stylists can weave extensions. Netting provides more flexibility than track placement because the stylist is not limited to sewing extensions to a braid. This style can last for up to three months if properly maintained. To care for your hair, wash it once a week and invest in a hooded hair dryer or heated cap for at-home maintenance. You want to make sure your hair is completely dry so it will not mildew under the net at all.
In tree braiding, the artificial hair is incorporated into the client's natural hair with the use of a basic cornrow. The best hair length to use is 24 inch hair. The client's hair is parted from the front of the head to the nape of the neck. The artificial hair is added at the beginning of the braid by folding it in half to create a cornrow with a knot in the front. The stylist braids 2-4 strokes, then pulls out a piece of the artificial hair, then braids an additional 2-4 strokes and pulls out another piece of artificial hair. This pattern continues until all the artificial hair is pulled out. The stylist then adds additional artificial hair into the braid and continues the above pattern until it reaches the back. Then the stylist ties the end with a rubber band, or sews it down with weaving needle and string.
This technique is the least permanent and can be very effective without the disadvantages such as traction alopecia associated with glue extensions. The hair weft has small toupee clips sewn onto them. Usually a set of clip-in extensions averages eight strips of human hair in varying widths from two inches to eight inches. Usually starting at the nape of the neck, the hair is sectioned neatly, then the weft is placed onto this section with the clips open and facing the scalp. Each clip is snapped into place. It can be useful to lightly backcomb each section for a more secure grip. This is repeated until each clip-in weft is in place. Clip-ins can be worn all day and all night, but they must be removed before sleeping. Some people wear clip-ins just for night life, while others wear them every day to work. This shows the versatility of this type of hair extension. Natural hair extensions can be removed, which makes it easier to style them.
The most recent development in weaving extensions is lace extensions. Lace extensions are made from a nylon mesh material formed into a cap that is then hand-ventilated by knotting single strands of hair into the tiny openings of the cap form, giving the hair a more natural, realistic flow than conventional extensions, and creating a lighter, more breathable cap. These extension units can be woven in or attached to the hairline with special adhesives. To ensure a proper fit, head measurements are taken into account with this type of weave.
This is a very popular style if one is looking for a long look without having actual hair strands. The hair is separated into small sections; then, using hair-braiding weave, the hair is weaved within the synthetic hair, creating a braid. This process takes about 3–15 hours, depending on the stylist. This hair can be washed every 12–14 days and can last up to 6 months with maintenance. Anyone who intends to endure several hours of braiding and many months with this hair style should consider that this style can damage the hair if it is not healthy. Making sure that the hair is conditioned and moisturized prior to braiding is essential. Also take note that this is not the best style if one has brittle hair.
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