Wazwan is a multi-course meal in Kashmiri cuisine, the preparation of which is considered an art and a point of pride in Kashmiri culture and identity. Almost all the dishes are meat-based (lamb, chicken, fish). It is popular throughout Kashmir and served internationally at Kashmiri food festivals.[1][2]
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Nilmatapurana informs us that Kashmiris were heavy meat eaters. The precise origin of the Wazwan word is likely from Sanskrit. In Sanskrit vyaJjana, means related to cooking while the Kashmiri Van (surely originating from Sanskrit Vania) means shop. The word Van surely seems to be a tight fit. The descendants of these cooks, the Wazas, are the master chefs of Kashmir. The ultimate formal banquet in Kashmir is the royal Wazwan. Of its thirty-six courses, between fifteen and thirty can be preparations of meat, cooked overnight by the master chef, Vasta Waza, and his retinue of wazas.
Guests are seated in groups of four and share the meal out of a large metal plate called the trami. The meal begins with invoking the name of Allah and a ritual washing of hands in a basin called the Tash-t-nari, which is taken around by attendants. Then the tramis arrive, heaped with rice, quartered by two seekh kababs and contains four pieces of methi korma, two tabak maaz, one safed murg, one zafrani murg, and the first few courses. Yogurt and chutney are served separately in small earthen pots. As each trami is completed, it is removed, and a new one brought in, until the dinner has run its course. Seven dishes are a must for these occasions — tabakh maaz, rista, rogan josh, daniwal korma, aab gosht, marchwangan korma and gushtaba. The meal ends with the Gushtaba. Nowadays the count for serving the dishes has reached 40.[3]