Trisul (त्रिशूल) | |
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Trisul from Bedini Bugyal |
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Elevation | 7,120 m (23,360 ft) [1][2] |
Prominence | 1,616 m (5,302 ft) [3] |
Listing | Ultra |
Location | |
Trisul
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Range | Kumaun Himalaya |
Coordinates | [1] |
Climbing | |
First ascent | June 12, 1907 by Tom Longstaff, A. Brocherel, H. Brocherel, Karbir[4] |
Easiest route | Northeast flank/north ridge: snow/glacier climb |
Trisul (Hindi: त्रिशूल) is a group of three Himalayan mountain peaks of western Kumaun, with the highest (Trisul I) reaching 7120m. The three peaks resemble a trident - in Hindi/Sanskrit, Trishul, trident, is the weapon of Shiva. The Trishul group forms the southeast corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, about 15 kilometres (9 mi) west-southwest of Nanda Devi itself. The main peak, Trisul I, was the first peak over 7,000 m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed, in 1907.
Contents |
The three peaks are named Trisul I, Trisul II, and Trisul III. The massif is a north-south ridge, with Trisul I at the north end and Trisul III at the south. The massif runs roughly North-South, and hence appears compressed when viewed from the south (Ranikhet, Kausani), and more stretched out from the Southeast (Chamoli, Bedini Bugyal).
Nanda Ghunti lies a few kilometers to the northwest, while Mrigthuni is just to the southeast.
Mountain | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Coordinates | Prominence (m) | First ascent |
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Trisul I | 7,120 | 23,359 | 1616 | 1907 | |
Trisul II | 6,690[5] | 21,949 | [6] | <200[7] | 1960 |
Trisul III | 6,007 | 19,708 | <200[7] | 1960 |
T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in September 1905, focussing on the western and southern sides. He returned in 1907 with two other Britons, three Alpine guides, and a number of Gurkhas. They ascended through the Rishiganga valley, to the north of the peak, onto the Trisul Glacier, which lies on the east side. From there they climbed the northeast flank to the north ridge, reaching the summit on June 12. At the time Trisul was probably the highest mountain to have been climbed.[8]
The climb was noted also for the first use of supplementary oxygen in a major climb[9]
Routes on the west face and south ridge of Trisul I have also been climbed. The west face was first ascended in 1976; this was the first ascent of the main summit not using the first-ascent route.
Trisul II and Trisul III were first climbed in 1960 by a Yugoslav team. They climbed from the Bidalgwar glacier, achieving the summit of Trisul II via the southern ridge and Trisul III via the north ridge.
Another Yugoslav expedition made the first traverse of the three peaks in 1987, and two members paraglided from the summit.
Alex Kunaver was a member of the first Yugoslav team which climbed Trisul in 1960. In 1987, his daughter Vlasta Kunaver climbed Trisul I and was one of the paragliders.
The Trisul massif can be accessed via the following route: Almora - Kausani - Garur- Gwaldam - Debal - Bagargad - Wan - Bedini Bugyal - Kelva Vinayak - Roopkund - Trisul.