| Trettachspitze | |
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The Trettachspitze from the north |
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| Height | 2,595 m (8,514 ft) |
| Location | Bavaria, Germany |
| Range | Central ridge, Allgäu Alps |
| Isolation | 0.4 km → Mädelegabel |
| Prominence | 145 m ↓ Trettachscharte → Mädelegabel |
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| Rock | Dolomia Principale Formation |
| First climbed | 1855 by Urban, Alois and Mathias Jochum |
The Trettachspitze is a 2,595 metre high mountain in the Allgäu Alps in Germany. Due to its striking appearance (a very steep, narrow horn of rock when seen from the west and east) it is one of the best-known mountains in the Allgäu Alps.
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Together with the Mädelegabel (2,645 m) and the Hochfrottspitze (2,649 m) it forms the often admired triumvirate of mountains rising above Einödsbach. It is the only high rocky summit in the Allgäu Alps that lies entirely on German soil. It is situated north of the Mädelegabel and usually ascended from the Waltenberger Haus.
At the foot of the Trettachspitze, at the lower end of the Trettachrinne, is the source of the Trettach river.
The Trettachspitze was first climbed in 1855 by the brothers Urban, Alois and Mathias Jochum from the Birgsau in the Stillach valley. The youngest was just 13 years old.
The Trettachspitze may only be attempted by experienced climbers. The usual ascents are the UIAA grade II approach on the northwestern arête, or the frequently used crossing of the northeast and northwestern arêtes using safety equipment which is UIAA grade III in places.
There are other climbing routes on every rock face. However the only ones that are regularly used are the Schwarzer Riß (grade V+), Spiel der Geister (VII) and The show must go on (VI) on the western face. The other routes are rarely attempted as they have long and dangerous approaches over often crumbling rocks. Next to the route The show must go on, Robert Jasper and Stefan Meineke opened up other climbing routes on the western face in summer 1991.