Toruń gingerbread (Polish: pierniki toruńskie, German: Thorner Lebkuchen) is a traditional Polish gingerbread that has been produced since the Middle Ages in the city of Toruń (Thorn).
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Old Polish sayings connect Toruń with making some form of "pierniki", and the expansion of the craft regarding making "pierniki" started in 13th century.[1] Well developed bee-keeping, a fertile soil and a trade route leading through this area made this happen.[2]
A considerable factor behind the development of gingerbread-making in Toruń was its excellent location. Situated on high-quality soil, the area provided fine wheat for flour, while nearby villages provided honey. The necessary spices were brought from remote countries, mainly India, via a route through the Black Sea and Lviv to Germany, where the spices were transported by north-German trade companies. Some also came by sea to the port of Gdańsk.
The first mention of Toruń gingerbread comes from 1380 and speaks of a local baker called Niclos Czana. The product quickly gained fame across Poland and abroad. Toruń and the city of Nuremberg, itself famous for special pancakes, were eager to protect the secrets of their recipes from each other. Finally in 1556, they formed an agreement by which each city could bake the specialities of the other.
The artisans weren't the only ones engaged in the production of the delicacy. In the 16th century, the Cistercian Order on the outskirts of Toruń prospered mainly due to this activity and even sold their product to other countries. During the 17th century, the well-known workshop of the Grauer family appeared. The city authorities were supportive of the lucrative trade and issued several tax breaks on spice imports and export by bakers' guilds so that the trade could be increased.
In the 18th and 19th century, the city saw a fall in baking and other craftsmanship. In 1825, only three bakers were left. With the advent of capitalism, large companies took over from the local craftsmen and mass production of the gingerbread ensued.
The largest factory was owned by Gustaw Weese, based on tradition dating from 1760, when Jan Weese started to bake gingerbread. Gustaw Traugott Wesse inherited a small workshop after his father Andrzej in 1824 and changed it into a large company. In 1875 "Gazeta Toruńska" wrote on New Year's Eve that due to demand it was even sold in Africa. Other exotic places of export included Turkey, Japan, China and Honolulu. In 1913, Gustaw Weese, a descendant of Gustaw Traugott Weese, constructed a factory which, after World War I ended, was employing over 500 workers. Gustaw Wese sold it in January 1939 to the Polish company "Społem" and left for his other gingerbread factory in Germany. The company in Toruń still exists and is the oldest confectionery company in Poland today and one of the oldest of Europe.
Besides Gustaw's factory there was also the Hermann Thomas company founded in 1857, which in 1907 employed 200 workers. Another important company engaged in the production of gingerbread was founded by Jan Ruchniewicz in 1907. The enterprise prospered quite successfully and had 50 workers. It was especially known for the ornamental gingerbread topped with Toruń's crest.
Pierniki Toruńskie, as they are known in their country of origin, form a part of the symbols of the national cuisine of Poland. They have been praised in literature, poetry, and the other Beaux Arts. They were also traditionally given as a gift by the city of Toruń to Polish leaders, artists and other Poles who have marked themselves in Polish society. In the past they were also given to Polish kings. Baking moulds have survived with the likenesses of Zygmunt III and his wife, Władysław IV and queen Cecylia Renata as well with the king's seal of Władysław IV with Polish eagle and royal crown together with crests of provinces. Other notable figures who received the gingerbread as gift from the city are: Maria Kazimiera Sobieska the widow of king Sobieski, bishop of Kujawy Antoni Ostrowski, the French Emperor Napoléon Bonaparte (during his visit the whole city was illuminated and bells were rung all over the city), Zygmunt Krasiński one of the leading Polish romantics, Jan Matejko, Helena Modrzejewska, Josef Pilsudski, Arthur Rubinstein, Czesław Miłosz, Lech Wałęsa and Pope John Paul II.
Since at least the Middle Ages, "pierniki" have been connected with Toruń in Polish proverbs and legends. One of the legends claims that the gingerbread was a gift from Queen of Bees to the apprentice Bogumił. An old epigram by poet Frederyk Hoffman from 17th century speaks of four best things in Poland: "vodka from Gdańsk, Toruń's gingerbread, ladies from Kraków, and shoes from Warsaw". Józef Epifani Minasowicz in 18th century wrote that if one doesn't drink vodka one is not worthy of tasting the gingerbread, and Jakub Kazimierz Haur stated that peasants ate bread as eager as the gingerbread.
The famous Polish poet Ignacy Krasicki, who personally favoured pierniki, wrote about them in his poem "Monachomachia". Adam Pług wrote in 1854 about a father returning from a fair to bring his children gingerbread as a gift. Zygmunt Kaczkowski in his "Gniazdo Nieczujów" spoke of it as an exceeding noble food.
A story connected with Toruń gingerbread involves the composer Frédéric Chopin. When 15-year-old Chopin visited the Dziewanowski family at Szafarnia, a small village near the river Drwęca, he stopped over in Toruń. He sampled the city's famous confection and grew so fond of it that he wrote a letter about it to his friend Jan Matuszyński. He even sent some to Warsaw. In honor of this, Poland's largest producer of Toruń gingerbread, the Kopernik confectionery company, has created a special, heart-shaped gingerbread called Scherzo, with Chopin's portrait on the wrapper.
The town of Toruń holds a yearly celebration dedicated to the gingerbread called Święto Piernika or Festival of Gingerbread.
There are two main producers of Toruń gingerbread: the confectionary factory "Kopernik" S.A., and the Toruń Bakery. The first upholds its legal rights to the brand name and is the successor to a company that was founded in 1760 by Jan Wesse. The second company was formed by Toruń bakers who specialized in producing gingerbread; its aim is to spread knowledge of the craft and to produce fine gingerbread for restaurants, parties and elite meetings.