Tirumala

This article is about Tirumala town. For the temple located here, see Sri Venkateswara Temple.
తిరుమల Tirumala)
—  hill town  —
తిరుమల Tirumala)
Location of తిరుమల Tirumala)
in Andhra Pradesh and India
Coordinates 13°39′00″N 79°25′12″E / 13.6500°N 79.4200°E / 13.6500; 79.4200Coordinates: 13°39′00″N 79°25′12″E / 13.6500°N 79.4200°E / 13.6500; 79.4200
Country India
State Andhra Pradesh
District(s) Chittoor
Nearest city Tirupati
Population

Density

18,013  (2004)

667 /km2 (1,728 /sq mi)

Time zone IST (UTC+05:30)
Area

Elevation

27 km2  (10 sq mi)

976 metres (3,202 ft)

Tirumala (Telugu: తిరుమల, Tamil: திருமலை)is a hill town in Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh, India. Tirumala is a pilgrim center of Hindus. Popularly known as Sri Venkateswara Temple. Tirumala is dedicated for the Shrimann Narayana or Maha Vishnu. Sri Rengam, Tirumala and Badrinath are other existing places of Archavathara temples of Vishnu.

The Tirumala Hill is 3,200 feet (980 m) above sea level, and is about 10.33 square miles (26.8 km2) in area. Tirumala is a collective of seven peaks from Seshachalam range part of Eastern Ghats. The seven peaks represents the hood of Adisesha. The seven peaks are named as Seshadri, Neeladri, Garudadri, Anjanadri, Vrushabadri, Narayanadri and Venkatadri respectively. The sacred temple of Sri Venkateswara[1] is on the seventh peak, Venkatadri, and lies on the southern banks of Sri Swami Pushkarini.

Contents

Etymology

The word Tirumala is a combination of two Tamil words Tiru - sacred or honorable, and Malai - hill or peak (Tirumala means the "Sacred Mountain").

History of the temple

Ancient history

King Thondaiman of Thondaimandalam (present day Kanchipuram),[2] is believed to have first built the temple after visualizing Lord Vishnu in his dream. He had built the Gopuram and the Prakhara of the temple, and arranged for regular prayers to be conducted in the temple. Later on, the Chola dynasty vastly improved the temple and provided it with rich endowments.

Ancient literature backing to the post-Mauryan and early Gupta era mentions Tirupati as the Aadhi Varaha Kshetra. The Puranas associate the site with Lord Varaha, one of the Dashavatara of Lord Vishnu. The Varaha shrine holds great importance in Tirumala, and is said to be older than the main sanctum of Venkateswara. The Ranga Mandapam, is on left side to the temple. The idol of, Sri Ranganatha Swamy of Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (Trichy), was protected in The Ranga Mandapam, for almost 60 years, during the invasions by Malik Kafur in the 14th century.

In his Mangala Sloka in Sri Bhashya, the Lokaguru Shrimath Ramanuja praises the resplendency of Lord Venkateswara:

akhila bhuvana janma sthema bhangaadi leele
vinata vividha bhuuta vraata rakshaika dikshe |
Sruti Sirasi videepte brahmanee Sreenivaase
bhavatu mama parasmin Semushi bhakti ruupaa

"May my intellect assume the form of Bhakti on Srinivasa -- the highest Reality -- revealed in the Vedanta as the Lord who creates, protects and destroys the universe with ease, and who has taken a vow to protect all creatures who need him."

Kamban, in his celebrated Ramayana, makes an explicit reference to the Thiru Vengadam Hills. In it he stated that, the truth preserved in the four Vedas stands out as the eternal Satya on the Vengada Hills. 'Silappadikaram', the Tamil classic refers the Holy-hills as 'Nediyon Kunrams'. It was, however, the Alvars who brought the spiritual majesty of Lord Venkateswara through their literature.

Importance in mythology

From Puranas, The Venkatam Hill is believed to be a part of the Mount Meru, which was brought on to the earth from Vaikuntam by Garuda (Lord's vehicle). The Hills are said to be a manifestation of Adi Sesha.

Many Alvars, Vaishnavacharyas and saints praised the Tirumala Hill in their respective literatures. Tirumala Nambi (considered as a descendent of Narada), spent his whole life in serving the Lord on the Tirumala hills..

Several references to the Tirumala were found in Puranas. Tirumala is one of the 108 shrines of the Sri Vaishanava sect of Hinduism. According to the Puranas, Lord Vishnu raised in the Avatar of Swetha Varaham from Pushkarini. This Swetha Varaha Avatharam was installed in a temple situated to the west of Swamy Pushkarni. The great religious leader Ramanujacharya visited this shrine on a pilgrimage, and systematized the process of worship of Sri Vaishnava, and that continues to date.

Alwars

Nammalvar (3000 B.C) praised Lord Venkateswara as the one, who can solve any problem. He compared Lord Venkateshwara to a medicine, and the life (Samsara) to a disease. He stated that Lord Venkateshwara can cure problems of life.

Saint Kulasekhara Alvar prayed to the Lord Srinivasa to grant him the birth in the holy Tirumala Hills, even as a fish in the sacred Swami Pushkarini, or as a tree, or as anything (emberumaan ponmalai mEl EdhEnum avEnE).

Thirumalai Ananthalvan: Selfless service to the Lord

Millions of devotees visit the Tirumala Hills, round the clock throughout the year. The throng increases during auspicious days. As they move towards the sanctum sanctorum of Lord Venkateswara, how many will remember that there was a time, just a thousand years back, when the Hills were deserted with not much of human habitation in sight? Ask any Srivaishnavite to name the man of the millennium. Pat will come the reply, Saint Ramanuja.

Ramanuja (1017-1137 A.D.) visited the Tirumala Hills thrice. His maternal uncle, Peria Thirumalai Nambi, gave him discourses on the Ramayana for several months on the Tirumala Hills. The temple was in a very bad condition then. Ramanuja assembled 74 Acharyas and asked if any one of them were willing to serving the Lord on the Hills on a day-to-day basis. Everyone hesitated, fearing the life in the forests, except Ananthalvan. Ananthalvan, a strong and silent devotee in the assembly prayed, "Beloved Acharya! Bestow with me the blessing of serving the Lord. With your grace, I will be happy to undertake this service." Ramanuja was pleased, and Ananthalvan was declared before the congregation, "Ananthalvan, You are truly the man (Aanpillai)."

Ananthalvan was born to Sri Kesavacharya of Bharadwaja Gothra in the year “Vijaya” (the 975th of the Sakha Era, 4154 years after Kali Yuga commenced), in the month of Chaitra, on the day of Chithra Star at Sirupudur in Mysore.

He was taught with the Vedas, Vedangas and Dhivyaprabandhams of Azhvars in his early age. On hearing about Sri Ramanuja, he went to Srirangam. His samasrayanam—a ritual in Sri Vaishnava sect—was done by Sri Arulalaperumal Emperumanar, who proclaimed Ramanuja as their teacher.

Ananthalvan chose to settle down on the Tirumala Hills in fulfillment of the Ramanuja's command. As a part of maintenance of a garden on the Tirumala, Ananthazhwar digged up earth, assisted by his pregnant wife. The compassionate Lord could not contain himself, appeared as a young man, and assisted her in her service. Ananthalvar got angry and hit him with a crowbar, and chased him into the temple. The priests found blood oozing from the chin of the Lord as Ananthalvan entered the sanctum sanctorum. He applied camphor on the chin and prayed for forgiveness. The crowbar can be seen today at the entrance of the temple as a memento to the dedicated devotion of Ananthalvan. The camphor is distributed as prasad.

One time Lord consider Anandhalvar as his guru and Ramanujar as Loka Guru and gave a slokam.

During his second visit to the Hills, Saint Ramanuja went round the garden laid down by Ananthasuri and was delighted to find the garden thick with Vakula, Patala, Punnaga, Shenbaga and other flower-bearing trees. The bunches of flowers hanging on the branches, entertaining the ears of pilgrims with strains of music poured forth by bees and all kinds of plumaged birds. Saint Ramanuja remembered, how on the first occasion, he had given the call to Ananthasuri at the time of discourse on Nammalwar's hymns referring to the Lord as residing in flower bedecked Venkata Hills (Sindhupoo maghizhum Thiruvengadam). He called Anantharya and declared in the august presence of Peria Thirumalai Nambigal, "O Anantharya! Having nursed Thee, I now reap the fruit."

Anantha Suri was some sort of a chronicle. His Venkatchala Ithihasamala represents Tirupati. The Holy triumvirate of Saint Ramanuja, Ananthalvan and Peria Thirumalai Nambigal, in a conference, on the third visit of Ramanuja set up the Pedda Jeeyangar Mutt to regulate the Vaikansa agama form of worship. The Saint began his SriBashya with an invocation to the Lord as Brahmani Srinivasa. This was a free Sanskrit rendering of Nammalwar's famous hymn addressing the Lord as "Alarmelmangai Urai Marba."

Epigraphs TT 171, 173 and 175 on the Tirumalai Hills show Ananthalvan's dedication to Saint Ramanuja. He prays to Ramanuja to bless him with the noble spirit to imbibe the teachings of Nammalwar. His devotion to Andal was so great that, on one occasion, he was seen diving deep down the Srivilliputtur temple tank to search for the remnants of turmeric used by Andal. He composed the Ramanuja Chautsloki showing how Srirangam, The Tirumalai Hills, Kanchi and Melkote were most favorite to Ramanuja. His Gotha Chatusloki is a work of great art, in which the glory of Andal is cherished.

Bhattar, the successor to Saint Ramanuja at Srirangam, once sent a disciple to Ananthalvan to ascertain who was a true Vaishnava. Ananthalvan told the Brahmin from Srirangam, "A true Sri Vaishnavite is like a crane, like a cock, like salt. He will be like You." Bhattar later on explained the four different ideas of Ananthalvan. The Srivaishnava ignores ordinary mortals and awaits the arrival of a true Gnani so that he may surrender to that Mahatma through devotion to service. Not for him the different parts of the Vedas which are not always of universal appeal. Like the cock picking up the good grains from the chaff, the Vaishnava will swear by the Dravida Veda of Nammalwar. Just as the salt dissolves itself in food and becomes useful thereby, the Srivaishnava effaces himself in Bhagavath, Bhaagavatha and Acharya Kainkarya. Like the Brahmin from Srirangam, he is free from ego or arrogance, always humble and devoted to the Srivaishnava clan.

Ananthalvan's final sacred gift to the pilgrims visiting the Hills was the shrine for Ramanuja. The image was presented to Ananthalvan by Saint Ramanuja Himself on request and was consecrated after the Saint shuffled off his mortal coil. Consecration may be later in time but the image itself is more ancient than those in Sriperumbudur, Srirangam and Thirunarayanapuram.

Ananthalvan rebukes Nanjeeyar for taking to Sanyas. For him liberation is attained by service to the community. Indeed Ananthalvan advises his disciple Vaishnava Dasa to spend his wealth for the upliftment of the poor and the down trodden if he is to aspire for the grace of Lord Venkateswara.

Ananthalvan joined eternity with the Lord on the sacred Thiru Adi Pooram day. Even today, Lord Venkateswara visits the garden and bestows honours on the Magizha Tree.

The satari at the main sanctum sanctorum is known as Sadagopa in remembrance of Nammalwar. The one in the Ramanuja shrine is known as Ananthalvan.

The Vaishnava community always held religious beliefs as filling too vital a function in sustaining individual morality and morale and social order and control. Ananthalvan belonged to a different clime and a different age, but it was not blind faith but faith married to reason.

Inside the Tirupati Balaji Venkateshwara Temple

Garbha Griha

The Garbha Griha or sanctum is where the idol of Lord Sri Venkateswara is placed. The idol stands majestically in the Garbha Griha, directly beneath a gilt-dome called the "Ananda Nilaya Divya Vimana".

This idol, called the Mulaberam, is believed to be self-manifested. As there is no known sculptor possessing the capability to sculpt idols of god so proportionately. Further, no human being is known to have installed it in the shrine.

The idol of the Lord wears a gold crown (Kiritam), which has a large emerald embedded on its front. On special occasions, it is replaced with a diamond kiritam. On the forehead of the idol, two thick patchs of tilak drawn with refined camphor, almost covers the eyes of the idol. In between the two white patches is a Kasturitilakam.

Golden makara kundalas hang to the ears of the idol. The palm of its raised right hand is embedded with a gem-set Sudershana Chakra, and the left palm with the Holy Cone. The slightly outstretched front right hand, has its fingers pointing toward the feet, as if Lord is the only recourse to his devotees to dissolve in him and enjoy eternal bliss. The akimbo of the front left hand implies lord's protection to devotees, and to show that the Samsara Sagara (Ocean of Life) is never deeper than to hip's height, if they seek his refuge.

The body of the Idol is spun with a Gold-stringed-Pitambaram, with a belt of golden-bells. The idol is decorated with precious ornaments. It has a Umbilical Chord flowing down, cross from the left shoulder. It bears Goddess Lakshmi on the right chest and Sri Padmavathi Devi on the left. Nagaabharanam ornaments are on both of the idol's shoulders.The lotus feet are covered with gold frames and decked with clinging gold anklets. A strong curved belt of gold encompasses the legs. During Abhishekam, we can have darshan of Goddess Lakshmi.

The Ananda Nilaya Divya Vimana was covered with gilt copper plates and covered with a golden vase, in the thirteenth century, during the reign of the Vijayanagara king, Yadava Raya.

Pilgrims are not allowed to enter the Garbha Gruha (beyond Kulasekhara padi (path)).

Sri Ramanuja Shrine

Shrine of Sri Ramanuja is adjacent to the Sangeeta Bhandara in the northern corridor of the Vimana Pradakshinam. It is also called as the Bhashyakara Sannidhi.

Ramanuja was an architect from Tirupati. He is considered as the father of the Sri Vaishnava community in Tirupati. He designed "the Nandanavanam" (gardens) of the temple. He was responsible for managing the worship procedures and other affairs of the Sri Venkateswara temple.

The shrine was built around in 13th century A.D. It overlooks the western end of the Tirumamani Mandapam. The Pandyan emblem, two fish and a hook, is carved on the wall next to the entrance.

The right hand of the stone idol of Ramanuja is held in the gesture of exposition (vyakhyana mudra), and the left hand in the form of boon bestowal (varada hasta), or holding a book (pustaka hasta).

The shrine figures prominently during the festival of Adhyayanotsavam, which is a typical Pancharatra observance. Special worship is conducted in this shrine during Gandhapodi Utsavam and Bhashyakara Utsavam. The utsava murthi of Ramanuja is taken in a grand procession to meet Malayappa near the Padi Kavali.

Bangaaru Vaakili

From the Tirumamani Mandapam, you can enter the Bangaaru Vaakili (Golden Corridor) to reach the inner sanctum sanctorum.

There are two tall copper images of the Dwaarapaalakaas, Jaya and Vijaya on either side of the door. The thick wooden door is covered with gilt plates, depicting the Dasaavataaram of Sri Maha Vishnu.

The doorway is directly in line with the Padi Kavali and the Vendi Vakili. It admits pilgrims to the Snapana Mandapam.

Suprabhaatam is sung in front of this door.

Medieval history

Tirumala was under the regime of the Vijayanagara emperors. The temple's assets were attained during the Vijayanagara Dynasty.[3] The coronation ceremonies of the emperors were also held at Tirupati. In 1517, Krishnadevaraya, on one of his many visits to the temple, donated gold and jewels. It enabled the Vimana (inner shrine) or the roofing to be plated with gold. The Maratha general Raghoji Bhonsle set up a permanent administration for the conduct of worship in the temple. The rulers of Mysore and Gadwal endowed large benefactions to the Temple.

British Raj history

In 1843, with the invasion of the East-India Company, the administration of the Sri Venkateswara Temple and a number of shrines was entrusted to Seva Dossji of the Hathiramji Mutt. The Seva Dossjis were the "Vicaranakartas" (Managers) for nearly a century, until 1932, when Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanams (TTD) was established as a result of the TTD Act, 1932.

The temple today

TTD is operated by a Board of Trustees, and has increased in size through adoption of various Acts from five in 1951 to fifteen in 1987. The operations and management of TTD is the responsibility of an Executive Officer (EO), who is appointed by the government of Andhra Pradesh.

The temple attracts, on an average of approximately 60,000 pilgrims every day.[4] The popularity of the temple can be judged by its annual budget. The annual income is estimated at INR 10 billion in 2008. Most of its income is derived from the donations. Devotees donate to the TTD, which runs into the millions of rupees. TTD, the organisation running the welfare of the temple, runs various charitable trusts, whose funds are derived from the budget, and donations from the devotees.[5]

Songs and Hymns

Lord Srinivasa has been the central theme for many a saint-minstrel. The Alwars were the first to be inspired by Lord Balaji. Portions of the Naalayira Divya Prabandham, comprising the songs of the Alwars are sung everyday in the temple.

The Prabandhams and the outpouring divine grace of Sri Balaji inspired Tallapaka Annamacharya to sing His glories in Telugu and in Sanskrit. Of the 32000 songs composed by him, only 12000 are available. Keertanas like 'Brahma Kadigina Paadamu' and 'Adivo Alladivo Sriharivaasamu' are popular even today.

Purandaradasa was another who composed thousands of songs regarding Lord Venkateshwara. Only a few hundred of his songs are available. 'Daasana Maadiko Enna', 'Nambide Ninna Paadava Venkataramana' are worthy of mention.

Ramabhakta and Sri Tyagaraja (writer of over 4000 songs), were also among the devotees of Lord Venkateshwara. 'Tera Teeyagarada', 'Venkatesa! Ninnu Sevimpanu' are among his well-known Keertanas on the Lord Venkateshwara.

Demographics

As of 2001 India census,[6] Tirumala has a population of 17,789. Males constitute 52% of the population and females 48%. Tirumala has an average literacy rate of 72.8%, higher than the national average of 59.5%: The male literacy rate is 57.1% and the female literacy is 42.9%. In Tirumala, 11% of the population is under 6 years of age.

The population in Tirumala is getting reduced as to provide more facilities to Piligrims. Government has planned to shift all locals to Tirupati, and the shifting is under progress.

Language and culture

Telugu is the official language of the town. The second most-widely spoken language is Tamil. Signboards in the town are multilingual in English, Telugu, Kannada and Tamil

Hinduism is the major religion in Tirumala. Dhoti (Pancha/Veshti) and Saree are traditional attire of the people. Practices of tonsure and using tilaka are very popular among devotees of Lord Venkateswara.

Transport

On Foot

Pilgrims can reach Tirumala by climbing barefoot through the path starting from Alipiri, near the police check-post for vehicles.[7]

Road

There exist two different roads - one exclusive for the vehicles coming from Tirupathi to the Tirumala hill-top, and the other from hill-top to the foot of the hill. Tirumala has direct bus services from Tirupati with a frequency of a bus in every 2 minutes. There are no transportation services from Tirupati to Tirumala between 12am and 3am. It also has direct buses to Chennai, Bengaluru and Vellore. Pilgrims can travel in their own vehicles. There are paid taxis for one who prefer comfort to reach the hill top.

Private bus operators ply buses to nearby city Tirupati from Chennai, Hyderabad, Vizag and Bangalore.

Rail

Tirumala does not have its own rail station. The nearest station is the Tirupati Railway station which is about 26 km from Tirumala.

However, the town lacks direct connectivity with important and religious places such as Indore, Ujjain, Jabalpur, Jaipur and Dehradun.

Air

The nearest airport is the Tirupati Airport, about 40 km from the hill top. Tirupati Airport is a domestic airport that has direct flights to Hyderabad, Vizag, Chennai, New Delhi and Bangalore. The airport is located 15 km from the city centre. Closest international airport is located in Chennai which is 130 km from Tirupati. The Tirupati airport is being upgraded to an International Airport.

Accommodation

Pilgrims can have an accommodation in TTD's guest houses. There are many guest houses which can be accessed by paying a rent of INR 300 a day.

Pilgrims can also avail a free accommodation by TTD. The process is usually slow and takes a lot of time to complete. The pilgrim has to pay INR 200 a day, as a caution deposit which will be refunded after he has vacated.

Choultries run by various religious establishments, such as Sringeri Mutt, Ahobila Mutt, Sri Raghavendra Mutt, Uttaradi Mutt, Kashi Math provide accomodation.

Panorama

Tourist locations

Other than the Sri Venkateswara Temple, there are places which can be seen in Tirumala.

AkaaSa Ganga

AkaaSa Ganga (Akasa: Sky, Ganga: Stream ) is a natural waterfall. It is believed to have its origin from the Lord Vishnu's feet . These waters are used daily in Srivari Temple's activities.

Srivaari Paadamulu

Srivari Paadamulu (The Lord's Footprints) are believed to be the footprints of Lord Venkateswara, when he first stood on Tirumala Hills. The footprints are located on the highest point of the hill. It is located about 15 km away from the temple.

Natural stone arch

The Natural Arch is located 1 km (0.6 mi) North of the Tirumala temple. The Arch is also called Silathoranam in local language (Telugu language: “Sila” means ‘rock’ and “thoranam” means a garland strung over a threshold, connecting two vertical columns or an ‘arch’ as in this case). The arch measures 8 m (26.2 ft) in width and 3 m (9.8 ft) in height. It is naturally formed in the quartzites of Kadapa Supergroup of Middle to Upper Proterozoic (1600 to 570 Ma) due to natural erosive forces. The arch is one of a few natural arches or bridges in Asia.

Paapa Vinaasanam

Paapa Vinaasanam is the temple located approximately 8 km from the Tirumala Temple. It is almost the last place that a person can visit by road in Tirumala. The temple of Goddess Ganga is said to forgive all the sins (Paapam) that people have done in their life. The temple is located in the Sri Venkateswara National Park.

There is a dam near the temple which provides electricity to Tirumala, Tirupati and nearby locations.

See also

References

8. http://www.tirupatispy.com/about-tirumala.html Tirupati and Tirumala