Thigh-high boots, known also as thigh-length boots or simply thigh boots, are boots that extend above the knees. Other synonyms include over-the-knee boots (OTK boots), and especially when cuffed, pirate boots. Lengths vary from reaching just over the knee to reaching almost to the crotch (referred to as crotch boots).
Like all boots, thigh boots are made of different materials ranging from various leathers, to various synthetic materials (vinyl, polyurethane, or latex), to various fabrics (silk, polyester microfiber). Many are constructed with zippers for ease of entry, but some are constructed as pull-on boots. Heel heights vary, but the majority are sold either as flats or with heels greater than three inches (7.5 cm). Heel styles vary from metal spikes to chunky. Like other boots, they can also have platform soles.
Thigh boots are considered by many to be erotic or kinky. They are used as fetish clothing in boot fetishism and shoe fetishism. Cheaper thigh boots are often worn by prostitutes and professional dominatrices, so many people consider them icons of such trades. Because of the latter they are often associated with sadomasochism. Nevertheless, they are frequently sold by couture designers, perhaps because of the implied eroticism.
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Laced leather boots were fashionable throughout the Victorian era for women. By the end of the 19th century, over-the-knee length laced leather boots were becoming a trend among London prostitutes wanting a style that would appeal to foot fetishists and clients interested in finding a dominatrix.[1]
In the world of women's fashion, thigh boots run through cycles in both popularity and design. As referenced by several authors, the popularity of the motion picture Pretty Woman hurt the credibility of thigh boots as wardrobe staples.[2] Nevertheless, in any fall fashion season, at least one or more designers and retailers will take a chance on their appeal.
Like shoes in general, fashion thigh boots are marketed through several different channels:
A key differentiator between these channels is the price point and the construction.
Couture fashion designers marketing thigh boots will vary from year to year. Introducing a boot model is typically tied to the designers theme for the line. These boots will typically be marketed at the highest price point for thigh boots and usually for shoes, in general. Fashion designers market similarly, though at a lower price point.
A number of couture shoe design houses regularly include thigh boots in their collections, and the price point will be at a premium, just as with the couture fashion designers. Example designers include:
Couture fashion designers regularly use the shoe design houses to design the boots and shoes for their collections.
Thigh boots are a regular staple of several Italian boutique brands. Examples of such brands include the following:
The price point for these boots can be very high, particularly at retail boutiques, but will vary more than for couture designers. Some brands are available through eBay sellers and clearance sellers (e.g., Yoox) at discounted prices.
The lowest price tier is typically the fashion retailers. Examples of retailers who regularly market thigh boots in their line include:
In Autumn 2010, thigh-high boots repeated as a fashion highlight from Autumn 2009. Designers and fashion houses who showed them with their designs included the following:
The Autumn 2009 fashion season featured thigh-high boots as a key fashion accessory for the season resulting in the style being declared a fashion trend in early 2009. Reaching a wider audience through fashion magazine editorials, the footwear style was shown in two different feature layouts in the September 2009 issue of US Vogue.[7][8] Numerous high-street fashion stores featured thigh-high boots in their Autumn 2009 collections, with many fashion designers also featuring them in their ready-to-wear collections.
Miuccia Prada pushed the margins of fashion with her thigh boots designed after hip boots for fishing.[9] One version even featured garters to suspend the tops from a belt. Right behind her was Stella McCartney,[10] featuring three crotch-length boots with synthetic uppers, per her usual animal-friendly practice. All three had snipped toes and extreme stiletto heels, and one featured a multi-patterned, pierced upper.
Other design houses showing thigh boots in their Autumn 2009 lines included the following:
As for the couture shoe designers, Christian Louboutin marketed no less than four different styles in Autumn 2009 – a front-lacing mid-thigh length with sculpted heel and hidden platform (Supra Fifré), a crotch-length, skin-tight boot with hidden platform, a chunky mid-thigh boot (Contente), and a chunky platform mid-thigh boot. In addition to one heeled thigh boot featuring an elastic cuff just above the knee and two pairs of flat over-the-knee boots in their couture line, Jimmy Choo's limited-edition capsule collection for H&M[17] featured a mid-thigh length, black leather, thigh boot with four-inch heel.
Givenchy[18] kicked off the thigh boot trend early in 2009, and conspicuously out of season, with a western-style thigh boot in black leather.
Fendi[19] supported the thigh boot cause in Autumn 2008 with a chunky suede boot that featured a metallic leather accent around the ankle of the boot and at the top of the heel. The boot was carried by several different retail outlets, and was available in black, brown, taupe, and gray.
Burberry Prorsum[20] championed the thigh boot in Autumn 2007, with a black patent leather model, that was shown with several pieces from their medieval-knight-inspired line. The boot featured a four-inch heel and pointed toe.
Karl Lagerfeld styled all of his designs in the Autumn 2006 Chanel collection[21] with thigh boots. The boots were finished in a variety of materials, including black suede and different shades of blue denim.
Karl Lagerfeld showed the Chanel[22] black leather thigh boot with many of his Autumn 2005 designs that actress Anne Hathaway later wore in The Devil Wears Prada, which made her a fashion icon.
Narciso Rodriguez[23] created a stir in Autumn 2003 when almost half the models in his ready-to-wear show were wearing his thigh boots with his clothing line. The boots featured four-inch heels and pointed toes. Phoebe Philo at Chloé[24] showed leather and suede thigh boots in several colors, including red and green, in addition to the more typical black and brown.
Roberto Cavalli[25] showed many of his designs in Autumn 2001 with his thigh boots. The boots featured four-inch heels and pointed toes.
Thigh boots as articles of fetish clothing date back at least to the 1950s when Irving Klaw used them in the costuming of the women in his erotic photography. Since that time, they have been a staple of fetish and adult photography. For instance, Bob Guccione photographed the 1982 Penthouse Pet of the Year, Corinne Alphen, in a pair of black leather thigh boots for her feature layout. Similarly, Dwight Hooker photographed the Playboy 25th Anniversary Playmate, Candy Loving, in white leather over-the-knee boots for her layout[26]
Until the 2000s, fetish thigh boots were generally distinguished from fashion boots by being more extreme in many design dimensions, particularly heel height and platform height. In the late 2000s, this trend began to change as couture designers, particularly Christian Louboutin, began to experiment with more extreme designs with their shoes. Consequently, the difference in the two now is more a function of the materials used. In particular, fetish thigh boots tend to be constructed of polyurethane (PU) or vinyl (frequently referred to incorrectly as patent leather). Also, they are generally produced in China and sold at low cost. An example line of inexpensive fetish thigh boots is sold under the brand name Pleaser.
A select group of European cobblers have specialized in higher-priced thigh boots for the fetish market. Legendary among these was the London-based Little Shoe Box, which crafted both ready-to-wear and custom thigh boots in leather and real patent leather. The Little Shoe Box, however, ceased operations in 2005, after 40 years of operation. Two other cobblers, Leatherworks (London), Ltd. and Jean Gaborit of Paris have continued the tradition of producing higher quality fetish thigh boots. Jean Gaborit also specializes in custom boots.
Motion pictures where thigh boots were prominent in an actress's wardrobe include the following:
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