Tarakasi is a type of silver Filigree work from Cuttack, a city from Orissa in the eastern part of India.
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This highly skilled art form is more than 500 years old and is traditionally done by local artisans on the Eastern shores of Orissa.[1] Presently, the silver filigree workers are largely from the district of Cuttack, where the art flourishes. According to sources, the art may have come to Orissa through its trade links with Indonesia as the workmanship is similar to that done in Indonesia.[2][3]
The filigree artists work with an alloy of 90% or more pure silver.[4] First, the lump of silver is placed into a small clay pot and together the two are put into a bucket full of hot coals. The temperature is regulated through a bellow that is hand operated by a crank.
The melting process takes about ten minutes and then the silver is poured into a small, rod-like mold and cooled by submerging the rod in water. The rod is then placed into a machine that will press the rod into a long, thin wire. This tedious and physically demanding process had been done traditionally by hand and took two men to turn the crank. Once the silver is pressed into a flat, workable wire, the wire itself can first be hand carved with intricate designs, or immediately smoldered by a small kerosene fire with one artist directing the small flame with a hollow tube held in his mouth into which he can blow. This process makes it easier for the artisan to mold the wire into the desired frame for the piece before it is cooled. Next the wires are strung together and twisted and shaped into a design by the artist’s precise fingers. Soldering is done by placing the piece into a mixture of borax powder and water, sprinkling soldering powder onto it and then placing it once again under the small flame. This insures that the detail of the design will stay intact. Once this is done, the artist will then take the warm piece and shape it into its form as an ornament. Techniques such as granulation, snow glazing and casting are also used innovatively to heighten the effect. Artisan Jagdish Mishra, speaking of the various techniques employed says, "The tastes of the customers keep changing and artists must be up to date with to keep up with emerging trends". Such new methods and experimentation are increasingly being employed to produce highly polished and refined artifacts in keeping with the demands of customers. Platinum polishing is done to give a more lasting shine whereas fusion of silver and brass or other materials is done to create some rather interesting effects.
Forms of animals, birds, flowers and even miniature handbags and other souvenirs are made in Tarakasi work. The Konark Chakra and temple are great favorites as mementos. Scenes from the Mahabharata, in particular the still from the Bhagavad Gita depicting the chariot of Arjuna driven by Lord Krishna are quite popular.recently, Bishandayal Jewellers in Cuttack constructed an entire replica of the Taj Mahal out of 55 kg of silver. The filigree jewelry is particularly rich in patterns. In Orissa, the stress is on arm jewelry, necklaces, toe rings and especially anklets, which are a great favorite. They are considered auspicious as well. Various kinds of intricate anklets, combining use of semi-precious stones are greatly preferred. Vermillion boxes, brooches, pendants, earrings and hairpins are also in great demand.Vermillion box is must in any Oriya marriage but this tradition now dying out.Waist band made from Tarakasi work were used traditionally in the marriage.Oriya marriages are incomplete without the Tarakasi anklets and toe rings.[5]
The jewellery worn in Odissi, one of the classical dances of India originating from Orissa are made from Tarakasi work.These Ornaments adorn the head, ear, neck, hands, fingers and waist of the dancer. The ornaments include a choker, ‘padaka-tilaka’ (a long necklace) , ‘bahichudi’ or ‘tayila’ (armlets), ‘kankana’(bracelets), a belt, anklets, bells, ’kapa’ (earrings) and a ‘seenthi’ (ornament work on the hair and forehead). These ornaments are embellished with natural un-cut stones lined with silver and gold.
The introduction of the Sharadiya Utsav tradition in the city dates back to the visit of Saint Chaitanya in 16th century when the consecration of the idol of Durga by using the mask pattern was conducted in his presence at Binod Behari Devi Mandap. Every year, during Durga Puja in Cuttack, Tarakasi jewelry is used at many pandals to embellish the idols of Maa Durga. One of the most famous idols is the one at Chandni Chowk, where the entire crown and accessories of Durga are made of silver, popularly known as Chaandi Medha. Other pandals those used Tarakasi are Chauliaganj, Choudhury Bazar,Khan Nagar,Banka Bazar,Balu Bazar etc. Every year more than 150 filigree artisans are engaged in making backdrop and ornament design.[6] The style was introduced at the Choudhury Bazaar puja pandal with a 250 kg chandi medha in 1956.Following suit, Sheikh Bazaar puja mandap installed a 350 kg Chandi Medha in 1991.In 2004, Ranihat puja committee joined the elite group with a 483 kg of silver filigree backdrop, jewellery and weaponry. In the following year, Haripur-Dolamundai puja committee superseded Ranihat when it installed 500 kg silver filigree.In 2006, the Sheikh Bazaar committee remodelled a new backdrop using 450 kg of silver.Chandini Chowk, Sheikh Bazaar, Alisha Bazaar, Chauliaganj, Badambadi, Ranihat, Haripur-Dolamundai and Balu Bazaar-Binod Behari puja committees are vouching for the filigree work.There is a competition to notch the best show every year among all puja committees in Cuttack.[7]