Lilly Dache | |
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Scrutinising her new hat design in 1956 |
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Born |
10 October 1898 |
Died | 31 December 1989 (aged 91) |
Resting place | France |
Nationality | Naturalised American |
Occupation | fashion designer |
Known for | famous American milliner |
Spouse | Jean Despres (13 March 1931 – ? |
Children | 1 |
Lilly Daché (10 October 1898 – 31 December 1989) was a French milliner and fashion designer.
She was born in Bègles, Gironde, France, and began her fashion career there at the age of 15 as a milliner, apprenticed under Caroline Reboux and Suzanne Talbot. Although she is said to have emigrated to the United States in 1924, the 1930 U.S. Census reports her as having entered this country in 1919; in any case, she settled in New York City. On 13 March 1931, Daché married French-born Jean Despres who was an executive at the large cosmetics and fragrance company, Coty, Inc. Their mutual love and successful supportive professional lives and collaboration endeared them to those around them.
Daché is reported to have said, "Glamour is what makes a man ask for your telephone number. But it also is what makes a woman ask for the name of your dressmaker." She was the most famous milliner in the United States during her time. So famous, in fact, that she was a mystery guest on a 1955 episode of the sophisticated television game show, "What's My Line?" (Panelist Arlene Francis eventually guessed her identity.) She is also referenced in the song "Tangerine" performed by the Jimmy Dorsey Orchestra.
Her major contributions to milinery were draped turbans, brimmed hats molded to the head, half hats, visored caps for war workers, colored snoods, and romantic massed-flower shapes. By 1949, she was designing dresses to go with her hats, as well as lingerie, loungewear, gloves, hosiery, and a wired strapless bra.
Lilly Dache designed for Hollywood films and had many clients who were movie-stars. They included Marlene Dietrich, Caroline Lombard and Loretta Young. When Dache retired in 1968 Loretta Young bought her last thirty hats. In 1958 Lilly Dache appeared on CBS What's My Line.
Both the designer Halston and the hair stylist Kenneth worked for her before going into business for themselves.
Daché's books include Lilly Daché's Glamour Book (published in 1956) and her autobiography, Talking through My Hats (published in 1946).
Daché retired in 1968, and her New York millinery business was taken over by her daughter Suzanne Daché. Daché in 1940 won the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. She also won the first Coty American Fashion Critics Award for millinery in 1943. She died in Louveciennes, France. Her grandson is the American painter John Gordon Gauld (b.1977).
Her designs and hats are valued highly by collectors of vintage clothes.
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