| Krkonoše | |
| Range | |
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Aerial view
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| Name origin: "krak"+"noš" (see Names) | |
| Countries | Czech Republic, Poland |
|---|---|
| Regions | Liberec Region (CZ), Hradec Králové Region (CZ), Lower Silesian Voivodeship (PL) |
| Borders on | Jizera Mountains, Rudawy Janowickie |
| Parts | Western Krkonoše Mountains, Eastern Krkonoše Mountains |
| Lakes | Wielki Staw, Mały Staw |
| Rivers | Labe, Jizera, Úpa, Mumlava, Bóbr, Kamienna |
| Highest point | Sněžka |
| - elevation | 1,602 m (5,256 ft) |
| - coordinates | |
| Geology | granite, schist, shale, limestone |
| Orogeny | Caledonian, Variscan, Alpine |
| Period | Neoproterozoic, Paleozoic |
Krkonoše [ˈkr̩konoʃɛ] ( listen) (Polish: Karkonosze [karkɔˈnɔʂɛ]; German: Riesengebirge; sometimes also called Giant Mountains) is a mountain range located in the north of the Czech Republic and the south-west of Poland, part of the Sudetes mountain system (part of the Bohemian Massif). The Czech-Polish border, which divides the historic regions of Bohemia and Silesia, runs along the main ridge. The highest peak, Sněžka (Polish: Śnieżka), is the Czech Republic's highest point with an elevation of 1,602 metres (5,256 ft).
On both sides of the border, large areas of the mountains are designated national parks (the Krkonoše National Park in the Czech Republic and the Karkonosze National Park in Poland), and these together constitute a cross-border biosphere reserve under the UNESCO Man and the Biosphere Programme. The River Elbe rises within the Krkonoše. The range has a number of major ski resorts, and is a popular destination for tourists engaging in downhill and cross-country skiing, hiking, cycling and other activities.
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The Czech writer Bohuslav Balbín recorded in 1679, that the mountains are known under various names: Krkonoše (Cerconossios), Rhipaeos Montes, Obrovski Mountains, Snow Mountains or Riesen Gebirge.[1] The Czech name "Krkonoše" is first mentioned in singular "Krkonoš" in a 1492 record on division of the Manor of Štěpanice into two parts. The first map occurrence of the name dates back to 1518, when Mikuláš Klaudyán referred to the mountains as "Krkonošské hory" (the Krkonoše Mountains).[2][3][4] The origin of the name is usually interpreted as a compound of "krk" or "krak" - an Old Slavonic word for Krummholz (reference to local vegetation) - and "noš" - derived from "nosit" (carry). Alternative linguistic theories mention a connection with the pre-Indo-European word "Corconti," which is first listed by Ptolemy and refers to a pre-Celtic or Germanic people.[5][6]
In Simon Hüttels chronicle of Trautenau (Trutnov) from 1549 the names Hrisenpergisches Gebirge, Hrisengepirge, Hrisengebirge, Risengepirge appeared for the first time, but in the coming centuries several other names were still used too. The current term Riesengebirge became widely accepted only in the 19th century.[7][8] The range is also often referred to in English as the "Giant Mountains".
The expansion of the Krkonoše amounts to 631 km², 454 km² on Czech and 177 km² on Polish area.
The main ridge of the mountains runs in east-west direction and forms the border between Poland and the Czech Republic. Its highest peak, Sněžka-Śnieżka (Schneekoppe), is the highest peak of the Czech Republic. The Silesian northern part in Poland drops steeply to Jelenia Góra (Hirschberg) valley, whereas the southern Czech part slowly lowers to the Bohemian basin. In the north-east direction the Krkonoše continue to Rudawy Janowickie (German: Landeshuter Kamm), in the south-east to Rýchory. The pass Novosvětský průsmyk (Polish:Przełęcz Szklarska, German: Neuweltpass) at Jakuszyce forms the western border to the Jizera Mountains (German: Isergebirge). The Bohemian ridge in the Czech Republic, running parallel to the main ridge, forms a second ridge (also called inner ridge). At Špindlerův Mlýn (Spindlermühle) the river Labe divides the Bohemian ridge.
The ridges are divided by the rivers Elbe, Mumlava, Bílé Labe, Velka Úpa, Malá Úpa and Jizera, which originates in the Jizera mountains. The rivers on the Czech side often fall over steep edges into valleys formed by ice-age glaciers. The largest waterfalls on the southern side of the mountains are the Elbfall with a height of 50 m, Pančavský waterfall (140 m, the highest waterfall in the Czech Republic), Horní Úpský waterfall, Dolní Úpský waterfall and Mumlavský waterfall (10 m). The most important rivers on the Polish side are Kamienna, Łomnica and Bóbr (Bober). They also form impressive waterfalls, such as Wodospad Kamieńczyka (27 m), Wodospad Szklarki (13,5 m), Wodospad na Łomnicy (10 m) or Wodospad Podgórnej (10 m).
The main ridge of the Krkonoše forms the water shed between North and Baltic Sea. The rivers on the southern Czech side drain into the North Sea, the rivers of the northern Polish side into the Baltic Sea.
The river valleys and lower layers form the sub-montane zone. The aboriginal hardwood and mixed forests are largely replaced with spruce mono cultures. Only the river valleys offer remnants of hardwood forests.
The higher parts form the montane vegetation zone. Their natural coniferous forests were also in large parts replaced by spruce mono cultures, which are often heavily damaged due to air pollution and soil acidification. In many places, the forest is dead. The reason is the geographic location in the Black Triangle, a region around the German-Polish-Czech border triangle in which a large number of coal-burning power plants exist. Although the sulfur dioxide emissions, which are mainly responsible for acid rain, and the emission of many other concentrations are greatly reduced since the beginning of the 1990s the forest die-back, which started in the 1970s and culminated in the late 1980s, could not be stopped entirely.
The clearing of forests in the surroundings of mountain huts created species-rich mountain meadows, which were maintained in alpine pasture farming. After the population exchange in 1945, this type of management largely came to a standstill and the mountain meadows were largely abandoned.
Above the timber line in about 1,250 to 1,350 m (4,100 to 4,430 ft) follows the subalpine vegetation zone, which is marked by knee timber, mat-grass meadows and subarctic highmoors. This habitat of special importance in the Krkonoše because of a relic of Arctic tundra, which was typical during the ice age in Central Europe. At the same time, however, a connection to the alpine grasslands of the Alps existed and plant species coexist here, which are otherwise separated by several thousand kilometers, such as cloudberries. Some species evolved under the specific conditions of the Krkonoše unlike in the Alps or in the tundra, especially in Śnieżne Kotły. They are endemic, which means they only appear here.
The alpine vegetation zone, which is characterized by large rocky deserts, can only be found on the highest peaks (Snezka, Luční hora, Studniční hora, Kotel and Szrenica). Only grass and lichen survives here.
Especially species-rich are the cirque glaciers such as the Obří důl, Labský důl and Důl Bílého Labe on the south side and the dramatic Śnieżne Kotły, Kocioł Łomniczki and the calderas of mountain lakes Wielki Staw and Mały Staw on the north side of the main ridge. The species- richest areas are called zahrádka ("garden"). There are about 15 in Krkonoše, for example Čertova zahrádka und Krakonošova zahrádka.
On both the Czech and Polish side, large parts of the mountain range are protected as national parks and nature reserves.
The Czech Krkonoše National Park (Krkonošský národní park, KRNAP) was created in 1963 as the second national park in Czechoslovakia, making it the oldest national park in the Czech Republic. Its area is approximately 370 square kilometres (140 sq mi), including not only the subalpine zone but also large parts down to the foot of the mountains.
Poland's Karkonosze National Park (Karkonoski Park Narodowy, KPN) was created in 1959 and covers an area of 55.8 square kilometres (21.5 sq mi). It covers the highly sensitive higher parts of the mountain range from an altitude of about 900–1000m and some special nature reserves below this zone.
The strict conservation regulations of the Polish national park prohibit reforestation of damaged and dead forests. On the Czech side, however, large-scale reforestation projects are common.
The climate of the Krkonoše is marked by frequent weather changes. The winters are cold and snow heights above 3 meters are not uncommon. Many parts of the mountains are covered with snow for 5 or 6 months. Higher altitudes are often wrapped into dense fog. On average mount Sněžka-Śnieżka is at least partly hidden in fog and/or clouds on 296 days. The average temperature on mount Sněžka-Śnieżka amounts to approx. 0,2 °C, which is similar to much more northern climates like in Iceland. The main ridge belongs to the most wind-exposed areas of Europe. On the northern side Foehn wind is a frequent meteorological phenomenon. The annual precipitation ranges from approx. 700 mm at the foot of the mountains up to 1230 mm on mount Sněžka-Śnieżka. However, the highest precipitation with 1512 mm are reached in the snow pits in the valleys at the foot of the main ridge.
Until the Middle Ages the mountain range and its foothills were an unpopulated place of deep, impenetrable forests. The first traces of human settlements probably appear near two provincial paths between Bohemia and Silesia in the 12th century.
The first wave of colonization by Slavonic settlers goes back to the 13th century, but only includes the foothills, whereas the ridges of the mountain range were still unaffected. The second wave of colonization (Ostsiedlung) during the later 13th century to the foothills was carried out mostly by German settlers, which first colonized the Silesian northern part, where farming conditions were better, and later the southern Bohemian part along the Elbe and Úpa river. Many agriculture settlements, market and handcraft communities and cities were founded during this time, which formed a base for the further colonization of the mountain range.
The first people who explored the inner parts of the Krkonoše were treasure hunters and miners looking for gold, silver, ores and valuable stones, mainly on the Silesian side. In the 14th and 15th centuries foreigners who spoke a different language then German came to the mountains. These foreigners were called "Wallen" (see Walha), and their journeys to the "treasure" deposits were recorded in so called "Wallenbüchern" (Wallen books). Mysterious orientation signs from these "Wallen" are visible to this day, especially on the northern side of the mountains.
At the beginning of the 16th century (1511) German miners from the region around Meissen in Saxony started their work in Obří Důl directly below mount Sněžka-Snìežka, and at the same time many other mines were opened in other central parts of the mountains too, like Svatý Petr (Saint Peter), now a part of Špindlerův Mlýn (Spindlermühle).
In the 1530s, Christopher von Gendorf, a Carinthian aristocrat and royal senior captain of King Ferdinand I, appeared in the Krkonoše and obtained the entire dominion of Vrchlabí (Hohenelbe, literally high Elbe). His enterprising spirit became crucial for the further development of the area. For the supplement of the miners he founded many smaller towns in higher parts of the mountains. Further down in the valleys iron work furnaces were built and water wheels provided the needed energy. Due to the intensive economic activity the first deforested enclaves on hillsides and on the peaks appeared during this period.
By the orders of Christopher von Gendorf widespread timber cutting for the silver mine in Kutná Hora started in many places, which caused irreparable damages. These orders led to the third wave of colonization, which fully affected the mountain ridges. In 1566 he invited lumberjacks from alpine countries to settle in his domain. These people from Tyrol, Carinthia and Styria changed the character of the mountains and shaped the cultural landscape significantly. Hundreds of families especially from the Tyrol region created another group of inhabitants who spoke a different German dialect and brought another domestic culture to the Krkonoše. On the mountain hillsides they founded new settlements, laid down the basis for later farming by breeding cattle and built wooden dams to retain the water. The entire mountain range was already in the 17th century a densely populated region with meadow enclaves and cottages (called Bauden), which were used during the cattle pasturage in the summer and sometimes even through the winter. Around the same time Albrecht von Wallenstein acquired parts of the mountains and the town Vrchlabí (Hohenelbe) served as a base for armament of his army. During that time non-Catholics found refuge in remote places in the mountains. Later entire village communities of non-Catholics from Austrian countries found asylum on the now Prussian northern side, where they settled in Marysin, Michalovice, Jagnietkow or Karpacz (Krummhübel).
During the 17th century the mountain range on the Bohemian side was divided among new landowners, most of them of Catholic faith and foreign to the region. This included the families of Harrach, Morzin and de Waggi. Disputes about the borders of each domain followed soon, which were settled between 1790 and 1810. The court decision from 1790, which set the border between the Bohemian dominions and the Silesian Schaffgotsch dominions (which owned this region since the Middle Ages), defines the border between Bohemia and Silesia to this day.
In 1918 the Republic of Czechoslovakia was founded, and the coming years were characterized by an influx of Czechs on the Bohemian side of the mountains. Usually these people worked for the government (opposed to the German inhabitants they spoke both Czech and German, which was required), but some of them also worked in the tourism industry and managed mountain huts like Labská bouda (German: Elbfallbaude) or Vosecká bouda (German: Wosseckerbaude). Many of these mountain huts were previously owned by aristocratic landowners and given to the Czech Hikers Club (KCT) after the Land Control Act. This influx was stopped when the Czechoslovakian side of the mountains was occupied by Germany in 1938, and many of these Czechs left the region or were expelled. After World War II almost the entire German population was expelled and replaced by Poles on the northern Silesian side and by Czechs on the southern Bohemian side of the mountain range. Today the population density on the area of the national park is 2/3 lower than before World War II as the resettlement was only partly successful[9] and many houses are only used for recreational purposes at weekends. The population exchange moreover led to a decline of the cultural landscape. In large parts of the mountains the meadows run to seed,[10] settlements deracinated,[9] hundreds of traditional houses and mountain huts decayed or turned into architecturally worthless objects[11] and countless memorials, chapels, shrines, landmarks and springs were destroyed, either because they were German related or ecclesiastic.[12]
Typical for the Krkonoše are its numerous mountain huts, which are called bouda in Czech and Baude in German. Both names are derived from the Middle High German word Buode, which means booth or building. The Polish name is schronisko. Most of the time they were either called after the location or its constructor and first occupant. The latter however often changed after the expulsion, when several mountain huts especially on the now Polish side received new names. Entire colonies of mountain huts were called after the families who lived there. They are located in the higher parts or the ridge of the Krkonoše and were used by shepherds as wooden refuges in the summer. After 1800, some of the mountain huts became interesting for the first hikers, and towards the end of the 19th Century many were converted into hostels. Later, these huts were often expanded to host a larger number of guests. Known historical mountain huts include Luční bouda (Wiesenbaude), Martinova bouda (Martinsbaude) and Vosecká bouda(Wosseckerbaude) in the Czech Republic and Schronisko Strzecha Akademicka (Hampelbaude), Schronisko Samotnia (Teichbaude) and Schronisko na Hali Szrenickiej (Neue Schlesische Baude) in Poland. In other places, the old mountain huts were replaced by newer buildings which were specially built for tourism purposes. Those huts from the 20th Century include Petrova bouda (Peterbaude) or the hut on top of mount Sněžka-Śnieżka.
The Krkonoše also offer numerous very impressive rock formations, such as Dívčí kameny-Śląskie Kamienie and Mužské kameny-Czeskie Kamienie above 1400 m on the main ridge, Harrachovy kameny on the Czech side or Pielgrzymy and Słonecznik in Poland. These weathered blocks of granite form high towers which often resemble on humans or animals and reach heights up to 30 meters. Similar formations can be found in other parts of the Sudetes.
The Krkonoše are one of the most traditional tourist areas in Central Europe. Already in the 18th und 19th century ascents to the Schneekoppe (Sněžka) were common, such as by Theodor Körner or Johann Wolfgang Goethe. Artists like Caspar David Friedrich and Carl Gustav Carus hiked through the mountains to find inspiration. At the end of the 19th century two mountains clubs were founded, the German Riesengebirgsverein (Giant Mountains Club) on the Silesian side and the Austrian Riesengebirgsverein on the Bohemian side. Both set, among other things, the touristic development of the Krkonoše as their goal, which primarily meant the construction of hiking trails. In the next years they created a network of 3000 km, with 500 km on the Silesian (main) and Bohemian ridge alone. As a result the mountains became one of the most popular vacation areas in Germany. During the Gründerzeit (19th Century period of industrial and economic growth) many manufacturers from Berlin built numerous holiday villas on the Silesian side, which are often preserved to this day and provide a special flair, as in Szklarska Poręba (formerly Schreiberhau). Direct rail links from Schreiberhau to Berlin, Breslau, Stettin and Dresden and later even Deutsche Luft Hansa air links via Hirschberg guaranteed a convenient and speedy arrival.
After 1945 and the population transfer of the German inhabitants an expansion of ski resorts with new lifts and slopes took place on both sides of the mountains, while the traditional mountain huts were neglected. Many were victims of fires, such as Elbfallbaude, Riesenbaude, or Prinz-Heinrich-Baude. Similarly many hiking trails, ski jumps and luge tracks fell into disrepair due to lack of care. The cross-border hiking trail on the main ridge called "Polish - Czech Friendship Trail" was closed in the 1980s for all but Polish and Czechoslovak citizens. The mountains are on the route of main Sudetes hiking trail, Główny Szlak Sudecki which follows along the main ridge.
Today, the Krkonoše are a popular holiday destination in summer and winter especially for visitors from Germany and the Netherlands. The nearest international airport is located in Wroclaw. Large ski resorts are located on the Czech side in Špindlerův Mlýn (Spindlermühle) and Harrachov (Harrachsdorf) and on the Polish side in Szklarska Poręba (Schreiberhau) and Karpacz (Krummhübel).
The Krkonoše mountains are a traditional winter sports centre in Middle Europe. August Neidhardt von Gneisenau described a sledging of 10 kilometers from Grenzbauden (Pomezní boudy) to Schmiedeberg (Kowary) already in 1817. Much earlier however heavy sledges already transported timber and hay whereas smaller and more manoeuvrable sledges, so called "Hitsch'n", were used to get faster from the ridges down into the valleys. Races with both types of sledges were a popular pastime among the locals and became an attraction for tourists. As sledging became more and more popular competitions were organized, the most popular and earliest during the late 19th century in Johannisbad (Janské Lázně). Around 1900 3930 sledges with long horn-shaped runners and 6000 sport sledges were counted on both sides of the mountains.
Nordic skiing was introduced during the same time when in 1880 Dr. Krause from Hirschberg (Jelenia Gora) bought some Norwegian skis in Stettin (Szczecin). A pair of them, the first recorded skis in the Krkonoše mountains, ended up at the Peterbaude (Petrovka). The locals however didn't know their purpose, and it wasn't until Fridtjof Nansens "Paa ski over Grønland" (The First Crossing of Greenland) was translated into German in 1891 that skiing became popular. At the same year the first ski manufacture of Austria–Hungary was established in Jungbuch (Mladé Buky) by master carpenter Franz Baudisch. The first crossing of the main ridge was done in 1892/93. Skiing as a popular sport was mainly brought forward by forest wardeners, teachers and industrialists and business people who provided money to create and maintain the needed infrastructure and sponsored equipment for poorer people and schools.
Around 1900 a number of sports clubs were founded in the Krkonoše mountains. The leading role of the region back then was emphasised by the fact that 5 of the 12 founding clubs of the Austrian Ski Federation (ÖSV) were located in this part of the Bohemia, that the office of the ÖSV was located in Hohenelbe (Vrchlabí) for the first three years (afterwards it moved to Vienna and finally Innsbruck) and that the first president of the ÖSV was Guido Rotter, a local from the mountains. The clubs on the Silesian side were part of the German Ski Association (DSV). After the breakup of Austro-Hungary and the creation of Czechoslovakia the German clubs of the Bohemian side of the Giant mountains joined the newly founded HDW, an association for all German winter sports clubs in Czechoslovakia, whereas the small Czech minority joined the Svaz lyžařů, an association for all Czech winter sports clubs.
The towns and villages of the Krkonoše mountains became a popular venue for national and international competitions, its athletes ranked among the best of the era. The first German Nordic combined champion was a local, the competition itself was staged in Schreiberhau (Szklarska Poręba). Schreiberhau also hosted several luge championships. Martin Tietze and his sister Friedel from neighbouring Brückenberg (Karpacz) won the European luge championchips many times. The first Rendezvous race, predecessor of today's Nordic Ski Championchips, was hosted by Johannisbad, the majority of the competitions were won by HDW athletes.
After the expulsion of the German population the athletes settled in West and East Germany. They again won several national titles and became pillars of the respective ski associations.
| Czech | Polish | German | Elevation | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sněžka | Śnieżka | Schneekoppe | 1,602 m (5,256 ft) | highest peak; chairlift from Pec pod Sněžkou |
| Luční hora | Łączna Góra | Hochwiesenberg | 1,555 m (5,102 ft) | highest peak of the Bohemian Ridge |
| Studniční hora | Studzienna Góra | Brunnberg | 1,554 m (5,098 ft) | |
| Vysoké kolo (Krkonoš) | Wielki Szyszak | Hohes Rad | 1,509 m (4,951 ft) | highest peak in the Western Krkonoše |
| Stříbrný hřbet | Smogornia | Mittagsberg | 1,489 m (4,885 ft) | |
| Violík (Labský štít) | Łabski Szczyt | Veilchenstein | 1,472 m (4,829 ft) | |
| Malý Šišák | Mały Szyszak | Kleine Sturmhaube | 1,440 m (4,720 ft) | |
| Kotel | - | Kesselkoppe | 1,435 m (4,708 ft) | |
| Velký Šišák (Smělec) | Śmielec | Große Sturmhaube | 1,424 m (4,672 ft) | |
| Harrachovy kameny | - | Harrachsteine | 1,421 m (4,662 ft) | |
| Mužské kameny | Czeskie Kamienie | Mannsteine | 1,416 m (4,646 ft) | |
| Dívčí kameny | Śląskie Kamienie | Mädelsteine | 1,414 m (4,639 ft) | |
| Svorová hora | Czarna Kopa | Schwarze Koppe | 1,411 m (4,629 ft) | |
| Růžová hora | - | Rosenberg | 1,390 m (4,560 ft) | |
| - | Kopa | Kleine Koppe | 1,377 m (4,518 ft) | |
| Liščí hora | Lisia Góra | Fuchsberg | 1,363 m (4,472 ft) | |
| Jínonoš | Szrenica | Reifträger | 1,362 m (4,469 ft) | chairlift from Szklarska Poręba |
| Lysá hora | - | Kahler Berg | 1,344 m (4,409 ft) | charlift from Rokytnice nad Jizerou, ski resort |
| Stoh | - | Heuschober | 1,315 m (4,314 ft) | |
| Černá hora | Czarna Góra | Schwarzenberg | 1,299 m (4,262 ft) | cable car from Janské Lázně, TV tower, ski resort |
| Medvědín | Medwiedin | Schüsselberg | 1,235 m (4,052 ft) | chairlift from Špindlerův Mlýn, ski resort |
| Čertova hora | Czarcia Góra | Teufelsberg | 1,021 m (3,350 ft) | chairlifts from Harrachov and Rýžoviště, ski resort |
The Krkonoše is the legendary home of Rübezahl, a half-mischievous, half-friendly goblin of German folklore.[13]
The Krkonoše provide the setting for Friedrich de la Motte Fouqué's "Der Hirt des Riesengebürgs," or "The Shepherd of the Giant Mountains."
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