Islay

Islay (ⁱ/ˈaɪlə/ eye-lə; Scottish Gaelic: Ìle, pronounced [ˈiːlə]), a Scottish island, known as "The Queen of the Hebrides" (Banrìgh nan Eilean),^[6] is the southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides. It lies in Argyll just west of Jura and around 25 miles (40 km) north of the Irish coast and Rathlin Island, which can be seen on a clear day. In Gaelic a native of Islay is called an Ìleach, pronounced [ˈiːləx], and the plural is Ìlich: Scottish Gaelic is spoken by about a third of the population.^[7] The island's capital is Bowmore where the distinctive round Kilarrow Parish Church and a distillery are located. Port Ellen is the next largest settlement and main port.

Islay is the fifth largest Scottish island^[3] and the sixth largest island surrounding Great Britain. It has just over three thousand inhabitants. It has a total area of almost 620 square kilometres (239 sq mi). Its main industries are malt whisky distilling, and tourism largely based on whisky and birdwatching.

The island is home to many bird species and is a popular destination throughout the year with birdwatchers, especially in autumn and winter to see the wintering population of Greenland white-fronted and barnacle geese. Resident birds include Red-billed Chough, Hen Harrier, Corncrake, White-tailed Eagle, Golden Eagle, Oystercatcher, Cormorant and many wading birds. The climate on Islay is often more clement than the Scottish mainland owing to the Gulf Stream.

Geography

The island's population is mainly centred around the villages of Bowmore, Port Ellen and Port Charlotte. Other smaller villages include Portnahaven, Bridgend, Ballygrant and Port Askaig. The rest of the island is sparsely populated and mainly agricultural.

The south-western end of the main body is a largely rocky region called The Oa. The north western arm of the island is called the Rhinns of Islay. There are several small lochs on the island including Loch Finlaggan, Loch Ballygrant, Loch Lossit and Loch Gorm. The fractal coast has numerous bays and sea lochs including Loch Gruinart, Loch Indaal, Loch an t-Sailein, Aros Bay and Claggain Bay.

Loch Indaal, which separates the Rhinns of Islay from the rest of the island, is formed along a branch of the Great Glen Fault called the Loch Gruinart Fault, the main line of which passes just to the north of Colonsay. This separates the limestone, igneous intrusions and Bogh Mor sandstones from the Colonsay group rocks of the Rhinns.^[8] The result is occasional, minor earth tremors.^[9] Ardnave Point is a conspicuous promontory on the northwest of Islay.

There are no Munros on Islay or Jura, the highest peak being Beinn Bheigier, a Marilyn at 1,612 feet (491 m).

There are numerous burns throughout the island, many of which despite their small size, bear the name 'river'. The most significant of these are the River Laggan which discharges into the sea at the north end of Laggan Bay and the River Sorn which, draining Loch Finlaggan, enters the head of Loch Indaal at Bridgend.^[10]

Climate

The influence of the Gulf Stream keeps the climate mild compared to mainland Scotland. Snow is rarely seen and frosts are light and short-lived. One might expect therefore a gardener's paradise and indeed, it is not unusual to see exotic plants growing in gardens. However, the winter gales which sweep in off the Atlantic can make travelling and living on the island during the winter difficult, while ferry and air links to the mainland are frequently delayed. The weather tends to become more pleasant around Easter and the summer season then extends until well into September.

Prehistory

The earliest settlers on Islay were nomadic hunter-gatherers who arrived during the Mesolithic period after the retreat of the Pleistocene ice caps. In 1993 a flint arrowhead was found in a field near Bridgend dating from 10,800 BC, the earliest evidence of a human presence found so far in Scotland.^[12] Other finds have been dated to 7000 BC using radiocarbon dating of shells and debris from kitchen middens.^[13][14] By the Neolithic, settlements had become more permanent,^[15] allowing for the construction of several communal monuments.^[16]

History

Recorded history begins with a document relating to St Columba^[17] who probably passed through Islay on his way to establish the monastery on Iona in the 6th century. At this time, Islay lay within the kingdom of Dál Riata and was ruled by the Cenél nÓengusa.

From the 14th to the 16th centuries, Islay, along with the rest of the Hebrides Archipelago and much of the west coast of Scotland, was controlled by Clan Donald, whose chief became known as the Lord of the Isles. The Islay Charter, a record of lands granted to an Islay resident, Brian Vicar MacKay, by the Domhnall of Islay, Lord of the Isles in 1408, is one of the earliest records of Gaelic in public use, and is a significant historical document.^[18]

The MacDonald Lords commanded a strong semi-independent maritime kingdom during the Middle Ages, and considered themselves equals of the kings of Scotland, Norway, and England.^[17] Their base of power was a large Gaelic settlement on the shores of Loch Finlaggan in northeastern Islay, near the present-day village of Caol Ila. The origins of the Lordship date back to the defeat of the Danes off the coast of Islay in 1156 by Somerled, but Finlaggan was populated long before the arrival of the Lords. Evidence suggests that it was a place of ancient inauguration of Celtic kings and chieftains, a tradition which may have originated in druidic times.^[19]

Writing in 1549, Dean Monro wrote:

In this iyle there is strenths castells; the first is callit Dunowaik, biggit on ane craig at the sea side, on the southeist part of the countery pertaining to the Clandonald of Kintyre; second is callit the castle of Lochgurne, quhilk is biggit ill ane iyle within the said fresche water loche far fra land, pertaining of auld to the Clandonald of Kintyre, now usurped be M’Gillayne of Doward. Ellan Forlagan, in the middle of Ila, ane faire iyle in fresche water.^{[20][Note 1]}

Each successive chief of Clan Donald was proclaimed Lord of the Isles upon an ancient seven-foot-square coronation stone, possibly of druidic origin, at Finlaggan. Like the ritual stone at Dunadd, capital of Dál Riata, it contained footprint impressions in which the new ruler stood barefoot and, with his father's ceremonial stone in his hand, was anointed King by the Bishop of Argyll and seven priests. During the ceremony an orator recited a list of the King's ancestors and he was proclaimed "Macdonald, high prince of the seed of Conn".^[22]

In 1462, John MacDonald II (also known as John of Islay, Earl of Ross), the last and most ambitious of the Lords, struck an alliance with Edward IV of England with the goal of conquering Scotland. Unfortunately, the untimely onset of the Wars of the Roses prevented Edward from fulfilling his obligations as an ally, and in 1493 John Macdonald was compelled to forfeit his estates and titles to James IV of Scotland. After the forfeiture, James ordered Finlaggan demolished, its buildings razed, and the coronation stone destroyed to discourage any attempts at restoration of the Lordship.^[17] The title itself survived, however; today, the heir to the British throne, who is known as the Prince of Wales in all other parts of the British Commonwealth, bears the title Lord of the Isles within Scotland.^[23]

In 1726, the island was purchased by Daniel Campbell (d. 1753) of Shawfield for £12,000. It remained in his family's ownership until 1853 when it was sold to James Morrison, the grandfather of the first Baron Margadale. Starting in the 1830s, the population of the island began dropping from its peak of 15,000 as a result of the Highland Clearances. Today's population is about 3,000. Most emigrants from Islay made new homes in Ontario, Canada, the Carolinas in the United States and Australia.

During World War II, the RAF built an airfield at Glenegedale which later became the civil airport for Islay. There was also an RAF Coastal Command flying boat base at Bowmore from 13 March 1941 using Loch Indaal, flying Short G Boat, Short C Boat (the precursor of the Sunderland) and Catalina I.^[24] On 1 September 1942 a reformed 246 Squadron with Sunderland Mark III aircraft took over.^[25] In May, 1943, RCAF 422 Squadron moved to Lochindall at Bowmore with Sunderland Aircraft.^[26] The 1942 film "Coastal Command" was partly filmed in Bowmore.^[27]

There was a RAF Chain Home radar station at Saligo Bay and RAF Chain Home Low radar station at Kilchiaran which became a RAF ROTOR radar station in the 1950s.

In the early 21st century, a campus of Sabhal Mòr Ostaig was set up on Islay, Ionad Chaluim Chille Ìle.

Economy

Distilleries

Islay malt whisky is produced by eight distilleries on the island.

The distilleries on the south of the island produce whiskies with a very strong peaty flavour. From east to west they are Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig (which are considered to be among the most intensely flavoured of all whiskies). On the north of the island Bowmore, Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhain are produced. These whiskies are substantially lighter in taste. Caol Ila is an exception, produced in the north but flavoured more strongly of iodine and peat and thus closer in taste to Islay's southern malts.^[28] There were more distilleries in the past: Port Ellen closed in 1983 while the Lochindaal in Port Charlotte closed as long ago as 1929. Little blending is done on the island, though since the takeover of Bruichladdich distillery by several private individuals whisky is now blended and bottled there by Master Distiller James McEwan. Bruichladdich is also noteworthy as the only distillery which bottles its malts on Islay.

In 2005, a new microdistillery opened at Rockside Farm. Named Kilchoman Distillery, it officially opened in June, and distilled its first spirit in November. The malting floor burned down in February 2006, but has since been repaired and is back to full production.

In March 2007 Bruichladdich announced that it would reopen Port Charlotte Distillery, using equipment from the Inverleven distillery. The distillery will use the existing warehouses of the former Lochindaal Distillery while a visitors centre will be built on the current site of Clyne's Garage. The rebuilt distillery will be named Lochindaal as well.^[29]

Brewery

Apart from the whisky there is now an original real ale from the Isle of Islay. The Islay Ales Brewery opened its doors on 22 March 2004 and brews seven different real ales,^[30] some of which are seasonal, or for special occasions such as the yearly Festival of Malt and Music. The brewery is located on Islay House Square just outside Bridgend.

Renewable energy

The location of Islay, exposed to the full force of the North Atlantic, has led to it being the site of a pioneering, and Scotland's first, wave power station near Portnahaven. The Islay LIMPET (Land Installed Marine Powered Energy Transformer) wave power generator was designed and built by Wavegen and researchers from the Queen's University of Belfast, and was financially backed by the European Union. Known as Limpet 500, due to cabling constraints its capacity is limited to providing up to 150 kW of electricity into the island's grid.^[31] In 2000 it became the world's first commercial wave power station. In March 2011 the largest tidal array in the world was approved by the Scottish Government with 10 planned turbines predicted to generate enough power for over 5,000 homes. The project will be located in the Sound of Islay which offers both high currents and shelter from storms.^[32]

Fishing

Islay has some of the finest brown trout fishing in Europe. Imported rainbow trout have not been released on the island and the "brownies" still dominate the freshwater ecosystems. In 2003 the European Fishing Competition was held on five of the lochs. Most of the estates organise fishing on the rivers and lochs and maintain the banks for fishing. Sea angling is also popular especially over the many shipwrecks around the coast.

Tourism

The Finlaggan Trust has a visitor centre which is open on some days of the week.

Transport

Many of the roads on the island are single-track with passing places. The two main roads are the A846 from Ardbeg to Port Askaig via Port Ellen and Bowmore, and the A847 which runs down the east coast of the Rhinns. The island has its own bus service provided by Ben Mundell trading as Islay Coaches.

The island has its own airport, Glenegedale Airport with services to and from Glasgow.

There are regular ferry services to Port Ellen and Port Askaig from Kennacraig, taking about two hours. Services to Port Askaig also run on to Scalasaig on Colonsay and on to Oban on Wednesdays during the summer only. These services are run by Caledonian MacBrayne. There is also a ferry that runs from Port Askaig to Feolin on Jura. A new ferry is expected to enter service in 2011.^[33]

Media

Islay was featured in some of the scenes of the 1954 film, The Maggie.

Part of the action in Julian May's book Diamond Mask takes place on Islay, where some characters engage in birdwatching.

In 1967-68, folk-rock singer Donovan included "The Isle of Islay" in his album, Gift from a Flower to a Garden, a song praising the pastoral beauties of the island. For the sake of a rhyme, he pronounces the name "eye-lay" instead of "eye-lah."

In the 1990s the BBC adaptation of Para Handy was partly filmed in Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich and featured a race between the Vital Spark (Para Handy's puffer) and a rival puffer along the length of Loch Indaal. The local primary school children were released from classes along the length of the loch to watch the race.

Since 1973 the Ileach has been delivering news to the people of Islay every two weeks. This twenty-eight-page, A4-sized publication now has a circulation locally and worldwide of 3,000 copies. The Ileach was named Community Newspaper of the year in 2007.^[34]

In 2000, Japanese author Murakami Haruki visited the island with his wife to sample seven single malt whiskeys on the island. He later wrote a travel book called If our language were whiskey (もし僕らのことばがウィスキーであったなら) with illustrations by his wife.

In 2007, parts of the BBC Springwatch programme were recorded on Islay with Simon King being based on Islay.^[35]

The British Channel 4 Time Team television series excavated at Finlaggan on the 24–26 June 1994. The episode was first broadcast on 8 January 1995.

Churches

Kilarrow Parish Church (aka the "Round Church") is round, legend has it, to leave no corner for the devil to hide in. The Church of Scotland "living" is currently vacant.

The kirk on the Rhinns of Islay is just outside the village of Port Charlotte. Known as St Kiaran's, the ministry is shared with the Kilmeny congregation. St John's Church of Scotland, Port Ellen is exploring a possible linkage with Kilarrow and is currently being served by a locum. Each of the vacant Church of Scotland congregations has an Interim Moderator who is responsible for the oversight of the congregation.

There are several other congregations on Islay. Baptists meet in the mornings in Port Ellen and in the evenings in Bowmore. The Scottish Episcopal Church of St. Columba is located in Bridgend and the Islay Roman Catholic congregation also uses St. Columba's for its services.

Many old church buildings on Islay are in an unroofed and ruined state; some have considerable historical interest dating from mediæval times. The ruined church of Kildalton has one of the finest carved crosses in the world; dating to the 8th century, it is carved out of the local bluestone. A carved cross of similar age, but much more heavily weathered can be found at Kilnave.^[36] Associated with many churches are mysterious cupstones which date to prehistory; these can be seen at Kilchoman Church where the carved cross there is erected on one, at Kilchiaran Church on the Rhinns and at other sites. Several more recently abandoned churches have been adapted as dwellings.

Wildlife

Islay is home to many different species of wildlife, including Barnacle Goose, Grey Seal, Otter, Shag, Red Deer, Buzzard, Peregrine, Golden Eagle, Rock Dove, Guillemot, Razorbill, Black Guillemot, Raven, Red-billed Chough and Adder. The island supports a significant population of the Marsh Fritillary butterfly

Notable natives of Islay

• George Robertson, formerly secretary-general of NATO and British Defence Secretary. In 1999 he was made Lord Robertson of Port Ellen.
• General Alexander McDougall, a figure in the American Revolution and the first president of the Bank of New York, was born in Islay in 1731.
• The Islay-born Reverend Donald Caskie (1902–1983) became known as the "Tartan Pimpernel" for his exploits in France during World War II.
• The Islay-born TV and radio broadcaster John Carmichael presents Mac'illeMhìcheil on BBC Radio nan Gaidheal.
• Glenn Campbell, Scottish political reporter for the BBC, was brought up on Islay and attended Islay High School.^[37]
• Billy Stewart (born 1935) steered a course from Port Ellen Primary school to being the government’s Chief Scientific advisor in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Sir William Stewart as he is now known, is currently chairman of the Health Protection Agency.
• John Crawfurd was born on Islay in 1783 and during a career around the world became governor of Singapore. He also wrote a number of books.
• Alistair Carmichael, the Liberal Democrat Chief Whip, was born on Islay in 1965.He currently represents Orkney and Shetland in Westminster

References