Isfahan

Isfahan (Persian: اصفهان Esfahān), historically also rendered in English as Ispahan, Sepahan or Hispahan, is the capital of Isfahan Province in Iran, located about 340 km south of Tehran. It has a population of 1,583,609 and is Iran's third largest city after Tehran and Mashhad. The Isfahan metropolitan area had a population of 3,430,353 in the 2006 Census, the second most populous metropolitan area in Iran after Tehran.^[2]

The cities of Najafabad, Se-deh (Homayounshahr, renamed Khomeinishahr since 1981), Khan Isfahan, Shahin-shahr, Zarrinshahr, Mobarakeh, Falavarjan and Fouladshahr all constitute the metropolitan city of Isfahan.

Isfahan is located on the main north-south and east-west routes crossing Iran, and was once one of the largest cities in the world. It flourished from 1050 to 1722, particularly in the 16th century under the Safavid dynasty, when it became the capital of Persia for the second time in its history. Even today, the city retains much of its past glory. It is famous for its Islamic architecture, with many beautiful boulevards, covered bridges, palaces, mosques, and minarets. This led to the Persian proverb "'Esfahān nesf-e jahān ast" (Isfahan is half of the world).^[3]

The Naghsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan is one of the largest city squares in the world and an outstanding example of Iranian and Islamic architecture. It has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The city also has a wide variety of historic monuments.

History

Prehistory

The history of Esfahan can be traced back to the Palaeolithic period. In recent discoveries, archaeologists have found artefacts dating back to the Palaeolithic, Mesolithic, Neolithic, Bronze and Iron ages.

Elamite Empire

Ancient Esfahan was part of the Elamite Empire under the name of Aspandana also spelt Ispadana. It later became one of the principal towns of the Median dynasty. Subsequently the province became part of the Achaemenid Empire. After the liberation of Iran from Macedonian occupation by the Arsacids, it became part of Parthian Empire. Esfahan was the centre and capital city of a large province, which was administered by Arsacid governors. In the Sassanid era, Esfahan was governed by "Espoohrans" or the members of seven noble Iranian families who had important royal positions, and served as the residence of these noble families as well. Moreover, in this period Esfahan was a military centre with strong fortifications.

Islamic Era

Esfahan fell temporarily under the rule of Arabs until the Abbasid era, only being attended to by Al-Mansur. In the 10th century, under the Buwayhid Dynasty, Esfahan regained its importance. In the reign of Malik Shah I of the Seljuk dynasty, Esfahan was again selected as capital and commenced another golden age. In this period, Esfahan was one of the most thriving and important cities of the world. The famous Persian philosopher Avicenna lived and taught there in the 11th century.

In 1387, Esfahan surrendered to the Turko-Mongol warlord Timur. Initially treated with relative mercy, the city revolted against Timur's punitive taxes by killing the tax collectors and some of Timur's soldiers. In retribution, Timur ordered the massacre of the city residents and his soldiers killed a reported 70,000 citizens. An eye-witness counted more than 28 towers, each constructed of about 1,500 heads.^[4]

As the result of its suitable geographic situation, Esfahan flourished again especially during the Safavid dynasty.

The Golden Age of Esfahan arrived in the 16th century under Shah Abbas the Great (1587–1629), who conquered it and made it the new capital of the Safavid dynasty. During the reign of Shah Abbas I, who unified Persia, Esfahan reached its pinnacle. Esfahan had parks, libraries and mosques that amazed Europeans.

The Persians called Esfahan, Nesf-e-Jahan (half the world), meaning that to see it was to see half the world, and also referring to it as a point where many cultures and nationalities meet and mingled. In its heyday, Esfahan was one of the largest cities, with a population of over half a million;^[3] 163 mosques, 48 religious schools, 1801 shops and 263 public baths.

In 1722, following the defeat of the Safavids in the Battle of Gulnabad, Afghans raided Esfahan after a long siege, which left much of the city in ruins. Although the Afghans were a primary cause of Esfahan's decline, it can also be attributed to competition from maritime commerce developed by European merchants from such countries as the Netherlands. Esfahan's wealth originated in its role as a chief waystation along the trans-Asia trade route (such as the Silk Road). Such land trade dwindled as the cheaper sea routes increased in popularity for transporting commodities between Asia and Europe.

Modern age

Today Esfahan, the third largest city in Iran, produces fine carpets, textiles, steel, and handicrafts. Esfahan also has nuclear experimental reactors as well as facilities for producing nuclear fuel (UCF). Esfahan has one of the largest steel-producing facilities in the entire region, as well as facilities for producing special alloys.

At Esfahan uranium is converted into uranium hexafluoride (UF₆). In its gaseous form it is spun at high speed in the centrifuges to extract the fissile isotope. Esfahan is Iran's only domestic source of UF₆. According to IAEA in 2006, Iran was building hardened bunkers under Esfahan to protect UF₆ production.^[5]

The cities of Najafabad, Khomeini-shahr, Shahin-shahr, Zarrinshahr, Mobarakeh, Qomshe, Kashan, Fouladshahr and Falavarjan constitute the metropolitan city of Esfahan. The city has an international airport and is in the final stages of constructing its first Metro line.

Over 2000 companies are working in the area using Esfahan's economic, cultural, and social potentials. Esfahan contains a major oil refinery and a large airforce base. HESA, Iran's most advanced aircraft manufacturing plant (where the IR.AN-140 aircraft is made), is located nearby.^[6]

Esfahan hosted the International Physics Olympiad in 2007.

Geography and climate

The city is located in the lush plain of the Zayandeh River, at the foothills of the Zagros mountain range. No geological obstacles exist within 90 km north of Isfahan, allowing cool northern winds to blow from this direction. Situated at 1,590 metres (5,217 ft) above sea level on the eastern side of the Zagros Mountains, Isfahan has an arid climate (Köppen BWk). Despite its altitude, Isfahan remains very hot during the summer with maxima typically around 36 °C (97 °F). However, with low humidity and moderate temperatures at night, the climate can be very pleasant. During the winter, days are mild but nights can be very cold and snow has occurred at least once every winter except 1986/1987 and 1989/1990^[7]. However, on the whole Isfahan’s climate is extremely cold in winter.

Main sights

Mosques

• Hakim Mosque
• Jameh Mosque^[8]
• Menar Jonban (Shaking Minarets)
• Shah Mosque
• Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque

Palaces and caravanserais

• Ali Qapu (The Royal Palace) – early 17th century
• Talar Ashraf (The Palace of Ashraf) – 1650
• Hasht-Behesht (The Palace of Eight Paradises) – 1669
• Chehel Sotoun (The Palace of Forty Columns) – 1647
• Shah Caravanserai

Najvan Forest Park

Old schools (madresse)

• Madreseye Sadr.
• Madreseye Shah (Chahar Bagh School).
• Madreseye Khajoo.
• Harati

Churches and cathedrals

• Vank Cathedral – 17th century
• Kelisaye Maryam (Maryam Church)

Squares and streets

• Naqsh-e Jahan Square also known as "Shah Square" or "Imam Square" – 1602.
• Meydan Kohne (Old Square)
• Shahshahan Square
• Chaharbagh Boulevard – 1596.
• Chaharbagh-e-khajou Boulevard

Bazaars

• Grand Bazaar, Esfahan
• Shahi Bazaar

Bridges

The Zayande River starts in the Zagros Mountains, flows from west to east through the heart of Isfahan, and dries up in the Kavir desert.

The bridges over the river include some of the nicest architecture in Isfahan. The oldest bridge is the "Pol-e Shahrestan," which was probably built in the 12th century during the Seljuk period. Further upstream is the "Pol-e Khaju," which was built by Shah Abbas II in 1650. It is 123 metres long with 24 arches, and it also serves as a sluice gate.

The next bridge is the "Pol-e Jubi." It was originally built as an aqueduct to supply the palace gardens on the north bank of the river. Further upstream again is the Si-o-Seh Pol or bridge of 33 arches. Built during the rule of Shah Abbas the Great, it linked Isfahan with the Armenian suburb of Jolfa. It is by far the longest bridge in Isfahan at 295 m (967.85 ft).

Other bridges include:

• Pol-e Shahrestan (The Shahrestan bridge) – 11th century.
• Marnan bridge
• Pol-e Khaju(Khaju Bridge) – 1650.
• Si-o-Seh Pol (The Bridge of 33 Arches) – 1602.
• Pol-e-Joui or Choobi (Joui bridge).

Bathhouses

• Khosro Agha
• Ali Gholi Agha
• Khajouha
• Shahzadeha
• Bigdeli
• Sheikh Bahaei

Tourist Attractions

Isfahan is unique city. It is an important historical center for main different group of tourists in the domestic and international in the world. The central historical region and the area called Seeosepol (the name of a famous bridge)^[9]

• – Naghsheh jahan square – Sheykh Lotfolah Mosque – Imam Mosque – Ali Qapou palace – See-o-se pol bridge – Ghaisarieh bazaar – Ghaisarieh bazaar entrance – Chehel setoon building – Chahar Bagh complex – Jameh Mosque – Hasht Behesht Building – Charhar Bagh school – Ashraf saloon – Khajoo bridge – Flower Garden – Bird park – Waterfall Park – Bozorg bazaar (grand bazaar) – Zargarha bazaar – Honar bazaar – Honar Museum – Rangrazha bazaar – Ferdosi Bridge – Darol shafa bazaar – Shishehgarha bazaar – Mokhels saray – Golshan saray – Haj Karim saray – Kodak Boston – Tofang and shamshir bazaar – Najvan park – Shahrestan Bridge – Safeh park – Folad Takht – Leleh park – Baba Roknoldin cemetery – Shahsheham Boghah – Ghasr Darb – Baghoshkaneh park – Isargarn park – Zalyandeh rood Bostan – Melat Bostan – Aeneh Khaneh Bostan – Abozar bridge – Sadi Booston – Osan commercial complex – Carpet shopping center – Vanak church – Maryam church – Chehel Dokhtaran Monareh – Dardasht Monareh – Sareban Monareh – Shaigh Bahaee public bath – Ghazvineha house – Bait-oll-ham church – Darolziafeh Monareh – Petros house – Darid house – Jewish synagogue – Mesri Mosque – Koshk Darb – Malek Gorestan – Ghazviniha Museum – Lebanon Mosque – Khat Museum – Shohada Museum – Halal Ahmar Museum – Shaikholeslam house – Safa Mosque – Ali Agha public bath/hamam – Jolfa church – Bazi shahr – Atashgah – Monar Jonban – Ghadir cultural complex – Japanese garden – Daeme exhibition – Ibrahim Emam zadeh – Khan Mosque – Ghodsi house – Laleh park – Haghighi house – Baba Ghasam cemetery – Massod Boghaeh – Haronieh Imam Zadeh – Ismeel Imam zadeh – Ahmad Imam Zadeh – Ali Mosque – Malek shahr complex – Hassan Abad bazaar – Jacob church – Marta house – Narsis church – Bidabad bazaar – Soltani complex – Shahzadeghan Bogheh – Mirza Kochek khan park – Ghadir recreational cultural complex

Other sites

• Atashgah – a Zoroastrian fire temple.
• Buqe'h-ye Ibn-Sina (Avicenna's Dome) – 12th century.
• The Tombs of Nizam al-Mulk & Malek Shah – 12th & 18th century.
• New Julfa (The Armenian Quarter).
• The Bathhouse of Sheikh Bahai.
• Pigeon Towers – 17th century.
• Manar Jonban, a famous minaret

Transportation

Airport

Isfahan is served by the Isfahan International Airport which handles domestic flights to Iranian cities and international flights, mostly to regional destinations across Middle East and central Asia including Dubai and Damascus.

Metro and Inter City Public Transportation

Esfahan Metro is under construction and will include 2 lines with 43 km length. The first line of that is planned to be finished by end of 2010 with 21 km length and 20 stations. Until the metro is completed an expanded bus system accompanied by taxis will handle Isfahan intra-urban public transportation.

Rail

Isfahan is connected to three major rail lines: Isfahan-Tehran, Isfahan-Shiraz (Recently opened), Isfahan-Yazd and via this recent one to Bandar Abbas and Zahedan.

Road transport

Isfahan's internal highway network is currently under heavy expansion which began during the last decade. Its lengthy construction is due to concerns of possible destruction of valuable historical buildings. Outside the city, Isfahan is connected by modern highways to Tehran which spans a distance of nearly 400 km (248.55 mi) to North and to Shiraz at about 200 km (124.27 mi) to the south. The highways also service satellite cities surrounding the metropolitan area.

Culture

Rug manufacture

Esfahan has long been one of the centers for production of the famous Persian Rug. Weaving in Esfahan flourished in the Safavid era. But when the Afghans invaded Iran, ending the Safavid dynasty, the craft also became stagnant.

Not until 1920s, between two world wars, was weaving again taken seriously by the people of Esfahan. They started to weave Safavid designs and once again became one of the most important nexus of the Iranian rug weaving industry. Esfahani carpets today are among the most wanted in world markets, having many customers in western countries.

Esfahani rugs and carpets usually have ivory backgrounds with blue, rose, and indigo motifs. Rugs and carpets often have very symmetrical and balanced designs. They usually have a single medallion that is surrounded with vines and palmettos and are of excellent quality.

Food

• Fesenjan – a casserole type dish with a sweet and tart sauce containing the two base ingredients, pomegranate molasses and ground walnuts cooked with chicken, duck, lamb or beef and served with rice.

• Gaz – the name given to Persian Nougat using the sap collected from angebin, a plant from the tamarisk family found only on the outskirts of Esfahan. It is mixed with various ingredients including rose water, pistachio and almond kernels and saffron.

• "Khoresht-e mast" (yoghurt stew) is a traditional dish in Esfahan. Unlike other stews despite its name, it is not served as a main dish and with rice; Since it is more of a sweet pudding it is usually served as a side dish or dessert. The dish is made with yogurt, lamb/mutton or chicken, saffron, sugar and orange zest. Iranians either put the orange zest in water for one week or longer or boil them for few minutes so the orange peels become sweet and ready for use. People in Iran make a lot of delicate dishes and jam with fruit rinds. This dish often accompanies celebrations and weddings.

• Esfahan is famous for its Beryooni. This dish is made of baked mutton & lungs that are minced and then cooked in a special small pan over open fire with a pinch of cinnamon. Beryooni is generally eaten with a certain type of bread, "nan-e taftton." Although it can also be served with other breads.
  See also Biryani.

Famous people

Artists

• Jalal al din Taj Esfahani,1903–, famous vocalist of classical music of Iran
• Hasan Kasaie,1928, distinguished ney player (ney is a musical instrument used in Iran's classical music)
• Jalil Shahnaz, 1921, notable Tar player of Iran
• Freydoon Rassouli, famous artist and Founder of Fusionart movement
• Master Ahmad Archang famous artist and designer of Isfahan rug patterns
• Alireza Eftekhari, 1956–, is a famous singer in Iran
• Mohammad Esfahani, popular music
• Moein, 1951, popular and classical music
• Hoshmand Aghili, 1945–, popular and classical music
• Hassan Shamaizadeh, music composer and Singer
• Leila Forouhar (لیلا فروهر), born in 1957, The Iranian Woman Singer

Actors and movie directors

• Reza Arhamsadr, 1923–2008, a famous father of Persian comic cinema and theater, popular actor
• Nosratolah Vahdat,1925, a famous & popular actor
• Mohamad Ali Keshvarz, محمدعلی کشاورز 1930,-, a famous & popular actor
• Jahangir Forouhar, 1916–1997, جهانگیر فروهر, a famous & popular actor and Father of Leila Forouhar (the Iranian woman singer)
• Kiumars Poorahmad, 1949–, a famous & popular director
• Soraya Esfandiary-Bakhtiari, 1956–2001, former princess of Iran also an actress
• Homayoun Ershadi, 1947–, a Hollywood actor and an architect

Painters

• Sumbat Der Kiureghian, 1913–1999, سمبات دِر كيوُرغيان, the best Isfahanian Armenian painter
• Hossein Mosaverolmolki,1889–1969, حسين مصورالملكي, notable painter and miniaturist
• Yervand Nahapetian, 1917–, يرواند نهاپطيان, Isfahanian Armenian painter
• Freydoon Rassouli, An American painter born and raised in Isfahan
• Ostad Javad Rostamshirazi, 1919–, Isfahanian painter
• Mahmoud Farshchian, 1930–, distinguished miniaturist

Political figures

• Mohammad-Ali Foroughi, a politician and Prime Minister of Iran in World war II era
• Shapour Bakhtiar, Ex Prime Minister of Iran
• Hossein Fatemi, 1919–1954, PhD, politician (Foreign Minister of Dr M.Mosadegh Cabinet)
• Ahmad Amir-Ahmadi, 1906–1965, military leader and cabinet minister of Iran
• Hossein Kharrazi, chief of army in the Iran & Iraq war
• Mohsen Nourbakhsh, 1948–2003, economist, Governor of the Central Bank of Iran
• Nusrat Bhutto, Chairman of Pakistan Peoples Party from 1979–1983, wife of Zulfikar Ali Bhutto, and mother of Benazir Bhutto.

Religious figures

• Ayatollah Hossein-Ali Montazeri Najafabadi,آیت الله حسینعلی منتظری نجف آبادی, Born in 1922 and died in December 19, 2009, a prominent Iranian scholar, Islamic theologian, democracy advocate, writer and human rights activist, a Grand Marja (religious authority) of Shi'ite Islam
• Ayatollah Yousef Sanei,یوسف صانعی, Born in Isfahan in 1937, He is an Iranian scholar, renowned theologian and Islamic philosopher. He is known as a senior reformist cleric and a Grand Marja of Shia Islam.
• Salman the Persian
• Allamah al-Majlisi, 1616–1698, Safavid cleric, Sheikh ul-Islam in Isfahan
• Ayatollah Rahim Arbab, 1847–?, cleric, Ayatollah-al-ozma rank
• Ayatollah Mohammad Beheshti, 1928–1981, cleric, Chairman of the Council of Revolution of Iran

Sportspeople

• Mahmoud Yavari, محمود یاوری, Born in 1939, Former Player of Shahine Esfahan and Iran National Team from 1958 until 1970, The Former Coach of Iran National Team and is known as an oldest and the most Active Coach in 2010 Persian Gulf League and Football Federation, He was also retired of Iran Police Department as a Colonel degree, amir ghalenouie calls him as Father of Football of Iran
• Abdolali Changiz, football star and Famous Player of Perspolis Fc in 1970s
• Mansour Ebrahimzadeh, Former Player of Sepahan in 1970s and 1980s, He have been Coach of Zobahan FC since 2007
• Rasoul Korbekandi, Famous Goalkeeper in Iran National Team, current coach of Rah Ahan FC
• Moharram Navidkia, Captain of the Sepahan Football Club
• Ehsan Hajsafi, youth phenomenon of the Sepahan Football Club

Writers and poets

• Mohammad-Ali Jamālzādeh Esfahani,1892–1997, author
• Mohammad ALi Mokrame Esfahani, 1886–1966, Liberalist and anti-religion's Superstitions Poet and journalist in Sedaye Esfahan Newspaper
• Khakshir Esfahani, 1883–1956, Poet of Joke and satire
• Houshang Golshiri, 1938–2000, writer and editor
• Mirza Abbas Khan Sheida, 1880–1949, poet and publisher
• Hamid Mosadegh, 1939–1998, poet and lawyer
• Hatef Esfehani, 1198(died), Persian Moral poet in Afsharye Era
• Saib Tabrizi

Others

• Nasser David Khalili, 1945–, property developer, art collector, and philanthropist
• Arthur Pope, 1881–1969, American archaeologist, buried near Khaju Bridge

Education

Aside from the seminaries and religious schools, the major universities of the Isfahan metropolitan area are:

• Universities
  • Islamic Azad University, Majlesi Branch (Esfahan)
  • Islamic azad university of khorasgan
  • Islamic Azad University of Khomeini Shahr
  • Isfahan University of Technology
  • Sheikh Bahaei University
  • Isfahan University of Medical Sciences
  • University of Isfahan
  • Isfahan University of Art

• High schools
  • Shahid Ejei High School
  • Harati High School
  • Adab High School
  • Mahboobeh Danesh(Navaie)
  • iyliya education institue Eng.Saghaei
  • Imam Mohammad Bagher Education Complex

There are also more than 50 Technical and Vocational Training Centers under the administration of Isfahan TVTO which provide non-formal training programs freely throughout the province.^[10]

Sports

Isfahan is host of many national and international sport events therefore enjoying good sport facilities such as Naghsh-e-Jahan Stadium with 50,000 capacity which second phase is under development to increase capacity to 75,000 spectators. Isfahan has an important derby called as Naqsh e jahan derby. This competition is one of the most popular annual football events in Iran between Sepahan F.C. and Zob Ahan.

Isfahan has two association football clubs that have been title contenders in Iran's Premier Football League. These are:

• Sepahan Isfahan.^[11] Honours:
  • Attend in FIFA Club World Cup, 2007
  • Vice-Champion of AFC Champions League 2007
  • Attend in AFC Champions League, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
  • Champion of Iran's Premier Football League, 2003, 2010 and 2011
  • Vice-Champion of Iran's Premier Football League 2008
  • Champion of Hazfi Cup, 2004, 2006, 2007

• Sepahan Novin.^[11] Honour(s):
  • Iran's Premier Football League Runners Up 2008

• Zob Ahan Isfahan.^[12] Honours:
  • Vice-Champion of Iran's Premier Football League 2005, 2009, 2010
  • Champion of Hazfi Cup, 2003, 2009
  • Attend in AFC Champions League, 2004, 2010 and 2011

• Foolad Mahan Honours:
  • Champion of AFC Futsal Club Championship, 2010
  • Champion of Iranian Futsal Super League, 2008–09, 2009–10

International relations

Twin towns – Sister cities

Isfahan is twinned with:

• Baalbek, Lebanon^[13]
• Barcelona, Spain^[14]
• Kathmandu, Nepal
• Cairo, Egypt
• Florence, Italy
• Freiburg, Germany
• Havana, Cuba
• Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India
• Iaşi, Romania
• Istanbul, Turkey^[15][16]
• Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia^[17]
• Kuwait City, Kuwait
• Lahore, Pakistan
• Saint Petersburg, Russia^[18]
• Venice, Italy
• Xi'an, Shaanxi, China
• Yerevan, Armenia^[19]

Gallery

See also

• Isfahan travel guide from Wikitravel

References

• Urban Planning of Isfahan in the Seventeenth Century – Abouei, Reza, University of Sheffield, School of Architecture, 2005

Notes

External links

• Municipality of Isfahan
• Isfahan official website
• Isfahan Metro
• Isfahan Geometry on a Human Scale A Documentary film directed by Manouchehr Tayyab (30 min)