Capicola

Capocollo (in America, capicollo or capicolla),[1] or coppa, is a traditional Calabrian Italian cold cut (salume) made from pork shoulder or neck, and dry-cured whole. The name coppa is Italian for nape, while capocollo comes from capo—head—and collo—neck—of a pig. The Italian spelling, "capocollo'", is derived from Latin, "caput collum". It is similar to the more widely known cured ham, prosciutto, because they are both pork-derived cold-cuts that are used in similar dishes. However, the technical definition of ham is the thigh and buttocks of a pig (or boar) slaughtered for meat, whereas capocollo is solely meat from the shoulder or neck.

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Manufacture and use

In its production, capocollo is first lightly seasoned, often with red and sometimes white wine, garlic, and a variety of herbs and spices that differ depending on region. The meat is then salted (and was traditionally massaged) and stuffed into a natural casing, and hung for up to six months to cure. Differences in flavor can also depend on what type of wood is used for smoking, as well as what breed of pig is selected. It is essentially the pork counterpart of the air dried, cured beef bresaola. A less common cooked version is called coppa cotta.

Capocollo is esteemed for its delicate flavor and tender, fatty texture, and is often more expensive than most other salumi. In many countries, it is often sold as a gourmet food item. It is usually sliced thin for use in antipasto or sandwiches such as muffulettas, Italian grinders, and panini, as well as some traditional Italian pizza.

Varieties and official status

Two particular varieties, Coppa Piacentina and Capocollo di Calabria, have Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status under the Common Agricultural Policy of European Union law, which ensures that only products genuinely originating in those regions are allowed in commerce as such.

Four additional Italian regions produce capocollo, and are not covered under European law, but are designated as "Prodotto agroalimentare tradizionale" (P.A.T.) by the Italian Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies:

Popularity

Coppa is a typical dish of the city of Piacenza, and is popular in Switzerland near the borders with Italy, and on the French island of Corsica. It was previously little known in the United States outside of areas heavily populated by Italian-Americans; however, awareness has increased due largely to frequent mention on the popular television series, The Sopranos, Mad TV Season 6 episode 24 parody of The Sopranos and The Office Season 6 episode titled "The Mafia". It was also mentioned the movie Beer League and in the classic film adaptation of The Godfather. In each appearance, it was pronounced with an Italian-American accent as "gabagool" (from Neapolitan dialect). It is also mentioned in a 2011 ESPN "It's not crazy, it's sports" commercial. In it two workers of a Nashua, NH deli shop discuss its use in all of their specialty sandwiches. “That’s why it’s on the Esposito.”

Notes

  1. ^ Canadian Oxford Dictionary 2nd ed., 2004.

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