Bakarkhani or Baqerkhani are a type of layered bread from Bangladesh, Pakistan and Kashmir, similar to parathas or phyllo breads. It most likely originated in the Middle East and eventually spread to Kashmir. The Bangladeshi antecedent may also have come from the Afghan/Kashmir region, as narrated in the legend below. The name Bakarkhani appears only in Kashmir and Bangladesh, though the Indian paratha may have similar origins. It is worth noting that the Pakistani baqarkhani is a phyllo puff-pastry which closely resembles a croissant. The bread is made by stretching a sheet of dough repeatedly and interleaving with ghee before baking on a tandoor or tawa.
A related bread, the sheermal, is also present in Pakistan, Kashmir and Bangladesh.
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Kashmiri Baqerkhani has a special place in Kashmiri cuisine. It is a thinner variety similar to a round naan in appearance, but crisp and layered, and sprinkled with sesame seeds[1]. Traditionally Sufi (bakers) lighted their Tandoor ovens before morning prayers to have the product available by morning. Bakarkhani dough of white flour and [[maya (that works similar to yeast)] is kneaded well and stretched thin by hand over the entire span of wooden board. Then after spreading ghee over it, flour is strewn on and it is folded and the process repeated several times. After sizeable numbers of such small dough are ready, they are made into round bread on the board and sesame (til) seeds are spread on it. The round bread are then put inside the tandoor. During the process of baking, egg may be sprinkled, that turns it red. The Kashmiri Baqerkhani is typically consumed hot during breakfast[2].
The Dhakai bakarkhani is somewhat thicker, more like a biscuit. Stacks of Bakarkhani lined up at bakeries is a common sight in old Dhaka. It is often eaten with kabab.
Hakim Habibur Rahman in his book “Dhaka pachash barash pahley” published in the 1940s gives a detail account of the variety of original food items of Dhaka and its preparation. He said, the unique feature of Dhaka was that though rice is the staple food, the varieties of 'roti' (bread) available were simply amazing and every roti has a history and ancestry of its own. Shirmal has basic ingredients of flour and semolina (suji), Persian background, it was soft and thick, whereas, Bakarkhani made of white flour and ‘mawa’ is thin, crisp and melts down in mouth, it is known as ‘sukha ruti’.
Cheese bakarkhani was another delicacy. In every fold, instead of ghee and flour ‘mohanbhog’ mishti or semolina (suji) halwa was used. These breads known as ‘bhigaroti or bhijaroti’ are sent on ‘dalas’ (high rim trays) dipped in creamy milk with almond and raisins from the house of the bride to the groom as part of a traditional matrimonial ritual.
Nazir Hossain, in his book Kingbadantir Dhaka (Dhaka of legends)[3], tells the story how during Siraj-ud-daulah's reign (1800s), his general in the Chitttagong area, Aga Bakar, fell in love with a dancer of Arambag called Khani Begum. However, another official Jainul Khan also had an eye on her, and attempted to take her away by force. Learning this Aga Bakar went to her rescue, and Jainul fled. A rumour spread that Aga Bakar had assassinated Jainul and hidden his dead body. Both Khani Begum and Aga Bakar were arrested and taken to Murshid Quli’s court. Murshid Quli Khan gave the death sentence to Aga Bakar and put him in a cage with a tiger. Somehow Aga Bakar succeeded in killing it and escaped. Meanwhile, Jainul abducted Khani and fled to the Sunderbans, but he killed her when they were about to be caught. After her death Aga Bakar perpetuated her memory by preparing the specially prepared bread 'bakar-khani'. But in Chittagong , Port City of Bangladesh, 'bakar-khani' like sweet paratha. After made of paratha, it will sink into sugar sirka (sugar melted).