Ivano-Frankivsk Івано-Франківськ |
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Ivano-Frankivsk old town | |||
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Map of Ukraine with Ivano-Frankivsk highlighted. | |||
Ivano-Frankivsk
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Coordinates: | |||
Country Oblast Raion |
Ukraine Ivano-Frankivsk Oblast Ivano-Frankivsk City Municipality |
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Founded | 1650 | ||
City rights | 1662 | ||
Government | |||
- Mayor | Viktor Anushkevychus (UPP) | ||
Area | |||
- Total | 83.73 km2 (32.3 sq mi) | ||
Elevation | 244 m (801 ft) | ||
Population (2009) | |||
- Total | 240,768 | ||
- Density | 2,752/km2 (7,127.6/sq mi) | ||
Postal code | 76000 | ||
Area code(s) | +380 342 | ||
Sister cities | Tomaszów | ||
Website | www.mvk.if.ua |
Ivano-Frankivsk (Ukrainian: Івано-Франківськ; formerly Stanyslaviv[1] or Stanisławów see below) is a historic city located in southwestern Ukraine.[2] It is the administrative centre of the Ivano-Frankivsk Oblast (province), and is designated as its own separate raion (district) within the oblast.
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The city was founded as Stanisławów in 1650. In 1772 it was transliterated in German as Stanislau when it was part of Austro-Hungary. From 1919 until the Soviet invasion of 1939 the city's original name was returned. Prior to 1962, the city was known in Ukrainian as Stanyslaviv (Ukrainian: Станиславів; Polish: Stanisławów; Russian: Станиславов, Станислав; German: Stanislau; Yiddish: סטאַניסלאוו. In 1962, it was renamed to honour the Ukrainian writer Ivan Franko. Due to the city's over-sized name unofficially it sometimes is being called simply as Franyk[3] by its residents.
The city, named Stanyslaviv (Stanisławów), was erected as a fortress to protect the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth from Tatar invasions and to reinforce the region in case of some other Khmelnytsky Uprising would occur. It was built on the site of the village of Zabolotiv, which had been known since 1435.[4] The village and the land around it were purchased by Stanisław Rewera Potocki from another Polish nobleman Rzeczkowski. The area was utilised for recreation, in and particular hunting. The city's name was later coined by the Stanisław's son, Polish nobleman Andrzej Potocki commemorating it to his father.[2][5]
Andrzej received the Magdeburg rights for his city from the hands of Jan Casimir in 1662. The first architect of the Stanisławow castle was from Avignon, Francisco Corasini at the time when Andrzej initiated the redesigning of the Zabolotiv village into the city of Stanislav in 1650. The city had two main gates which were known as the Halytska gate and Tysmenytska gate. The alternative names were Lvivska and Kamianetska respectively. The names were given for the direction in which they were facing. There was one more smaller gate known as Armenian or Zabolocki. Also a new large fortified Potocki palace was erected in the place of older smaller wooden one. Today this building serves as the military hospital. In the same year Jews were granted rights of permanent settlement and permission to engage in work and commerce as "residents among the Polish-Ruthenian and Armenian nation", as well as "rights to leave the city at will".[6] In 1666 the city's first town hall (or ‘ratusha’) was erected and built out of wood.[7] Soon afterwards, when in 1672 the Turks conquered the fortress of Kamianets-Podilskyi, Stanyslaviv, together with Halych, became strongholds against Turkish forces. It was attacked and besieged in 1676, but the Turks did not manage to capture and pillage the city. However, Stanyslaviv was so badly destroyed that in 1677 the Sejm in Warsaw relieved the city of its tax duties.
In 18–19 centuries the city flourished and became a mojor manufacturing and trading centre of Poland.[2] Jews were permitted to build houses for themselves on the "Street of the Jews" (which then was by the flood bank).[8] Later, the fortress also successfully withstood attacks by Turkish and Russian forces. Extensively rebuilt during the Renaissance, it was sometimes called Little Leopolis.[9] The city was also an important centre of Armenian culture in Poland, with an Armenian church, in which a painting of Mary was kept. The painting was in 1945 moved to Gdansk.
In 1772, after the Partitions of Poland it became a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and successively of the autonomous Kingdom of Galicia and Lodomeria. Under Austrian rule, Jews played quite an important role in civic affairs. Two well known families left their imprint at that time on the economic and communal life of Stanisławów at that time. The Horowitz family, who from the year 1784 held positions on the Rabbinate of Stanisławów, and the Halpern family, who were well-to-do, and were known for charitable deeds, communal work, and economic development. In 1848 in the city was established the Rus Council (Ukrainian: Руська рада) and was formed the National Guard. In 1866 the city was connected to the railway network. At around that time series of plants and factories were built. On September 28, 1868 Stanisławów experienced a major disaster. The city was engulfed in a major fire which destroyed the third of the city and completely destroyed the market place of the town. The city required a major renovation and was almost completely rebuilt.[10][11] Dr. Arthur Nemhein was the mayor of the city from 1897 to 1919, but was later fired by Polish authorities in 1919 for cooperating with Ukrainian separatists. In the elections to the Austrian parliament of 1907, Dr. Marcus Braude, a Zionist delegate, gained the majority of votes.[12] During World War I, the front-line was for some time in the area of the city, Russians and Austro-Hungarian forces fought several battles in Stanisławów and its vicinity. In 1917 Russian forces burned the central districts during the Kerensky Offensive.
In October 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed and the Western Ukrainian People's Republic (ZUNR) was proclaimed.[13]
From January to May 1919 it was the capital of the West Ukrainian National Republic. The same year it was subjected to Polish–Ukrainian skirmishes, and it eventually was annexed by Poland as part of the Second Polish Republic as the capital of the Stanisławów Voivodship. It was occupied by the Romanian army between May 25 and August 21, 1919.
During the Polish-Soviet War in 1920, the Red Army took over the city for a brief period. After the Soviet retreat, Ukrainian troops loyal to Symon Petlura occupied the city for a few days. At this period of history the city was in complete disorder.[14]
According to the 1931 Polish census there were 198,400 residents in the Stanisławów county (159 per square kilometre, the area of the county was 1,249 km2 (482 sq mi)). Among them there were 120,214 Poles, 49,032 Ukrainians, and 26,996 Jews.[15] The population of the city itself was as follows: 27,000 in 1900, 28,200 in 1921 and 60,000 in 1931 (70,000 together with the suburb of Knihinin or Knjagynyn, which was in the 1930s a separate commune). During the interbellum period, Stanisławów was a large military base for the Polish Army, with two major units stationed there – 11th Infantry Division and Podolska Cavalry Brigade.
In the 1939 invasion of Poland by German and Soviet forces, the territory was captured by the Soviets in September 1939 and included into the Ukrainian SSR. Between September 1939 and June 1941, the Soviet regime ordered thousands of inhabitants of the city to leave their houses and move to Siberia, where most of them perished. Numerous people were taken out of the city prison and simply shot outside of the city when Soviet forces were leaving it in 1941.
There were more than 40,000 Jews in Stanisławów when it was occupied by the Nazi Germany on July 26, 1941. During the occupation (1941–44), more than 600 educated Poles and most of the city's Jewish population were murdered.[16]
On August 1, 1941, Galicia became the fifth district of the General Government. On October 12, 1941, later called "Blutsonntag" ("Bloody Sunday"), thousands of Jews were gathered on the market square; then the Nazi forces escorted them to the Jewish cemetery, where mass graves had already been prepared. On the way the escort beat and tortured the Jews. At the cemetery the Jews were forced to give away their valuables and show their papers. The men of the Security Police (Sicherheitspolizei; SiPo) then started mass shootings, assisted by members of the German Order Police (Ordnungspolizei) and the railroad police. The German Police ordered the Jews to strip naked in groups and then proceed to the graves where they were shot. They fell into the grave or were ordered to jump in before being shot. The Security forces shot between 8,000 and 12,000 Jews on that day.[17]
On August 8–9, 1941, the Security Police commanded by Hans Krüger with the help of the Ukrainian Auxiliary Police arrested several members of the Polish Intelligentsia (mainly teachers, professors). At night around 14th on August 15, they were transported to a place near the city, named the Black Forest and executed. The number of victims is unknown, but some have estimated around 200.[18]
Up to July 1942 most killings were carried out in Rudolf's Mill, and from August onward in the courtyard of the SiPo headquarters. On August 22, 1942, the Nazi held a "reprisal Aktion" for the murder of a Ukrainian, which they blamed on a Jew. More than 1,000 Jews were shot. German policemen raped Jewish girls and women before taking them to the courtyard of the SiPo headquarters.
About 11,000 Jews were still living in Stanisławów when the next Aktion took place. On February 22 or 23, 1943, Brandt, who had succeeded Hans Krüger as SS-Hauptsturmführer, ordered the police forces to surround the ghetto—initiating the final liquidation. Four days after the beginning of the Aktion, the German policemen put up posters announcing that Stanisławów was ‘Judenfrei’ or ‘free of Jews’. At this time 27 members of the UPA were shot by the Nazi government in the centre of the city. During the Nazi occupation around 100,000 inhabitants of the city were killed in total.
Jehovah's Witnesses also lived in a Jewish ghetto. When they learned that the Nazis planned to execute all Jews in the city, they organised an escape for a woman of Jewish origin and her two daughters who later became Witnesses. Risking their own lives, the Witnesses hid these Jewish sisters throughout the entire period of the war[19].
When the Soviet army reached Stanisławów on July 27, 1944, there were about 100 Jews remaining in the city who had survived by hiding. In total about 1,500 Jews from Stanisławów survived the war.
A formal indictment against Hans Krüger was issued in October 1965, after six years of investigations by the Dortmund State Prosecutor's Office. On May 6, 1968, the Münster State Court sentenced him to life imprisonment. He was released in 1986.
In Vienna and Salzburg there were other trial proceedings against members of the Schupo and the Gestapo in Stanisławów in 1966.[16]
Beginning in 1944 it was a part of the Soviet Union. The Soviets forced most of the Polish population to leave the city, most of them settled in the Recovered Territories. As part of Ukraine, it gained its independence in August 1991 after the fall of the Soviet Union. In 1958 the adjacent village of Pasichna was annexed to the city. Today it is being referred to as a city's locality. In few years (1962) the village of Opryshivtsi was added to the city.
In 1962 the name was changed to honour Ukrainian writer Ivan Franko.[20] Five years later the Ivano-Frankivsk National Technical University of Oil and Gas was established.
In the early 1990s the city was a strong centre of the Ukrainian independence movement.
In 2002, the Anti-Defamation League (ADL) called a move by the city council to honour Nazi war veterans, of the SS Galicia division whom the head of the SS, Himmler, congratulated in May 1944 for having cleansed Ukraine of all its Jews as "fighters for independence," inexcusable and "profoundly insulting."[21] In 1986, a Commission of Inquiry on War Criminals in Canada (consisting of Canadian federal government authorities and the Canadian Jewish Congress), reviewed possible deportation of certain members of the regiment from Canada, and determined that the SS Galicia regiment should not be indicted by the Commission for war crimes, and that charges of war crimes by the Division had never been substantiated.[22]
• Pre–1772: Stanisławów, Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth (within the Kingdom of Poland),
• 1772–1809: Stanislau, Austrian Monarchy (within the Kingdom of Galicia and Lodomeria),
• 1809–1815: Stanislav, Russian Empire,
• 1815–1918: Stanislau, Austrian Empire, then Austria–Hungary,
• November 1918 – May 1919: Stanyslaviv, West Ukrainian National Republic,
• May 1919 – September 1939: Stanisławów, Poland, capital of the Stanisławów Voivodship,
• October 1939 – June 1941: Stanyslaviv, Ukrainian Soviet Socialist Republic,
• July 1941 – August 1944: Stanislau, capital of the Stanislau Kreis, Distrikt Galizien, Generalgouvernement,
• August 1944–1991: Stanyslaviv, (renamed in 1962: Ivano-Frankovsk), province capital, Ukrainian SSR,
• Post–1991: Ivano-Frankivsk, independent Ukraine.
The city is situated in the Carpathian region, approximately 120 metres (390 ft) above mean sea level.[23] As is the case with most of Ukraine, the climate is moderate continental with warm summers, and fairly cold winters.
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
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Ave. high °C (°F) | -3 (31) | -1 (33) | 6 (43) | 12 (54) | 18 (65) | 20 (69) | 22 (72) | 22 (72) | 18 (66) | 12 (55) | 5 (42) | 1 (35) | 11 (53) |
Ave. low °C (°F) | -6 (20) | -6 (21) | -1 (29) | 3 (38) | 8 (47) | 11 (53) | 13 (56) | 12 (54) | 9 (49) | 3 (39) | 4 (31) | -4 (24) | 3 (39) |
Source: Weatherbase[24] |
The city's council currently consists of 60 deputies. The political representation of the V convocation by political bloks was elected as such: Our Ukraine 22 (Our Ukraine 9, Rukh 8, United Centre 1, Industrialists and Entrepreneurs 2, no affiliation 2), BYuT 17 (Batkivschyna 14, USDP 2, no affiliation 1), Ukrainian People's Party 14 (UPP 3, CUN 1, United Centre 3, Sobor 1, no affiliation 6), Party of Regions 4 (Party of Regions 3, no affiliation 1), PORA 3 (PORA 2, no affiliation 1).
There are five villages (selo) that are part of the municipality (similar to suburbs): Vovchynets, Krykhivtsi, Mykytyntsi, Uhornyky, and Khryplyn.[25] Each village has its own village council with following numbers of representatives: Vovchynets (21), Krykhivtsi (21), Mykytyntsi (20), Uhornyky (20), and Khryplyn (16). According to the Ukrainian Census (2001), the population of the municipality is 230,443 (including the adjacent villages), while the number of the city's residents is 215,288.
Ivano-Frankivsk does not have city raions, although there are several localities that are worth of mentioning. Among many there are such as Positron (Завод Позітрон), Pasichna (Пасічна), Ratusha (Ратуша), Market (Базар), Valy (Вали), Brativ Maidanskykh or onto Brothers (На братів Майданських), Obizdna (Об'їздна), Naberezhna (Набережна), and others.
Historical populations | ||
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Year | Pop. | %± |
1732 | 3,300 | — |
1792 | 5,448 | 65.1% |
1849 | 11,000 | 101.9% |
1869* | 14,786 | 34.4% |
1880 | 18,626 | 26.0% |
1900* | 27,012 | 45.0% |
1910* | 29,850 | 10.5% |
1914 | 64,000 | 114.4% |
1921 | 51,391 | −19.7% |
1931 | 60,626 | 18.0% |
Note: Historical population record is taken out of Ivano-Frankivsk portal (Ukrainian). With asterisk there are identified years of approximate data. In XVIII century differentiation among Poles and Ukrainians was conducted on the religious backgrounds.
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The city has 25 public schools of general education for grades 1 through 11. Aside of them there are some privately owned schools and lyceums. The city also has several professional public institutes.
The city has six universities, the Ivano-Frankivsk Institute of Management that is a local campus of the Ternopil National Economic University, and the Ivano-Frankivsk Institute of Management and Economics "Halytska Akademia". All of those universities are state funded.
Ivano-Frankivsk is home to a number of sports teams. Most notably it was home to the football club FC Spartak Ivano-Frankivsk. The club is currently reorganized into the youth football academy Spartak-93 and competes at the Children-Youth Football League of Ukraine. The former president of Spartak Anatoliy Revutskiy reorganized the local university (University of Nafty i Hazu) team into the new "FSK Prykarpattia" with support of the city mayor Anushkevichus. That team currently plays in the Ukrainian First League. Previously during the interbellum period the city was home to another football club that was based on the local Polish garrison and was called Rewera Stanisławów. That club competed at the regional level that has evolved at that period.
The city also is the home to a hockey team, HC Vatra Ivano-Frankivsk, that competes in the Ukrainian Major Hockey League and a futsal team, PFC Urahan Ivano-Frankivsk, that competes in the Ukrainian Major Futsal League. Those clubs were established in the recent times.
Ivano-Frankivsk is also the hometown of Ukrainian gymnasts one of them Dariya Zgoba who won gold on the Uneven Bars in the 2007 European Championships as well as a finalist on the Beijing Olympics and another - Yana Demyanchuk, who won gold on the balance beam at the 2009 European Championships.
The city of Ivano-Frankivsk has an extensive network of the city public transportation including buses, trolleybuses, taxicab service of different kind. There are four routes for trolleybuses and about 20 routes for regular buses. Some of the routes run outside of the city into the near adjacent villages.
There is one rail station locally known as Vokzal. It is part of Lviv Railways. The station also provides several inter-cities bus routes, including sometimes international as well.
There is the Ivano-Frankivsk International Airport that obtained its international status in 1992. The airport shares its property with the 114 Brigade of Ukrainian Air Force. Since 2002 the airport was leased as a public property to the private enterprise "Yavson" and from 2005 the Public limited company "Naftokhimik Prykarpattia" (subsidiary of Ukrnafta) with whom the contract expires in 2013.
Full list of renamed streets (Ukrainian)
All names that in the least way remind of the city's Soviet or Russian past are renamed into either their former names, nationally historic, or any neutral name. For example, Gagarin street was renamed back to Vovchynets street (connects the city with its suburb), Suvorov street is now Harbar street, of course, Soviet street is now Nezalezhnist street (Independence), and there are many other streets that were renamed (around 100). Some of the name changes might bring smile to people who are familiar with the history of the city and Ukraine. The city also has names that for whatever reason might seem to be offensive to ones who still honor the Soviet regime.
The city of Ivano-Frankivsk is located on the intersection of three major national (Ukraine) routes: H18, H09, and H10. There also is one important regional route T09-06. All the H-routes eventually connect to E50.
The mentioned composition is well seen on the top picture. The Armenian church there has blue domes.
Ivano-Frankivsk is twinned with 18 cities:[28]
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