Kvass

A mug of kvass

Kvass or kvas (from Russian квас (kvas) or Polish kwas, meaning "acid", in the 16th century[1]), sometimes called a bread drink in English[2], is a fermented beverage made from black or regular rye bread. The colour of the bread used contributes to the colour of the resulting drink. It is classified as a non-alcoholic drink by Russian standards, as the alcohol content from fermentation is typically less than 1.2%.[3].

It is popular in Russia, Belarus, Ukraine, Lithuania, Latvia, and other Eastern and Central European countries as well as in all ex-Soviet states, like Uzbekistan, where one can see many kvass vendors in the streets.[4]

The alcohol content is so low (0.05% - 1.44%) that it is considered acceptable for consumption by children.[5] It is often flavoured with fruits or herbs such as strawberries or mint. Kvass is also used for preparing a cold summertime soup called okroshka.

Contents

History

A kvass street vendor in Kaliningrad (early 1990s)
A kvass street vendor in Kiev (2005)
Kvass street vendors (2008)

Kvass has been a common drink in Eastern Europe since ancient times, comparable with other ancient fermented grain beverages including beer brewed from barley by the ancient Egyptians, the pombe or millet beer of Africa, the so-called rice wines of Asia, the chicha made with corn or cassava by the natives of America.[6] Kvass was first mentioned in Old Russian Chronicles in the year 989. In Russia, under Peter the Great, it was the most common non-alcoholic drink in every class of society. Later, in the 19th century, it was reported to be consumed in excess by peasants, low-class citizens, and monks; in fact, it is sometimes said that it was usual for them to drink more kvass than water. It has been both a commercial product and homemade. It used to be consumed widely in most Slavic countries, where in almost every city there are kvass vendors on the street. Today it forms the basis of a multimillion-dollar industry. Kvass was once sold during the summer only, but is now produced, packaged, and sold year-round.[7]

The town of Zvenigorod, west of Moscow, is known for its authentic, preservative-free kvass, which is brewed in the basement of the town's Orthodox monastery.[7]

Manufacturing

Kvass being fermented in a jar

Kvass is made by the natural fermentation of bread, such as wheat, rye, or barley, and sometimes flavoured using fruit, berries, raisins, or birch sap collected in the early spring. Modern homemade kvass most often uses black or regular rye bread, usually dried, baked into croutons (called suhari), or fried, with the addition of sugar or fruit (e.g. apples or raisins), and with a yeast culture and zakvaska ("kvass fermentation starter").

Commercial kvass, especially less expensive varieties, is occasionally made like many other soft drinks, using sugar, carbonated water, malt extract, and flavourings. Better brands, often made by beer rather than soft drink manufacturers, usually use a variation of the traditional process to brew their products. Kvass is commonly served unfiltered, with the yeast still in it, which adds to its unique flavour as well as its high vitamin B content.

Russia

Bottled kvass

Although western soft drinks such as Coca-Cola and Pepsi previously smothered the commercial sale of kvass in Russia, currently kvass is being marketed as a patriotic alternative to cola, sparking a recent "kvas revival." For example, the Russian company Nikola (whose name sounds like "not cola" in Russian) has promoted its brand of kvass with an advertising campaign emphasizing "anti cola-nisation." Moscow-based Business Analytica reported in 2008 that bottled kvass sales had tripled since 2005 and estimated that per-capita consumption of kvass in Russia would reach three liters in 2008. Between 2005 and 2007, cola's share of the Moscow soft drink market fell from 37% to 32%. Meanwhile, kvass's share more than doubled over the same time period, reaching 16% in 2007. In response, Coca-Cola launched its own brand of kvass in May 2008. This is the first time a foreign company has made a significant entrance into the Russian kvass market. Pepsi has also signed an agreement with a Russian kvass manufacturer to act as a distribution agent. The development of new technologies for storage and distribution, and heavy advertising, have contributed to this surge in popularity; three new major brands have been introduced since 2004.[7]

Latvia

Rīga kvass street vendor (1977)

After the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, the street vendors disappeared from the streets of Latvia due to new health laws that banned its sale on the street and economic disruptions forced many kvass factories to close. The Coca-Cola company moved in and quickly dominated the market for soft drinks, but in 1998 the local soft drink industry fought back by selling bottled kvass and launching an aggressive marketing campaign. This surge was further stimulated by the fact that kvass sold for about half the price of Coca-Cola. In just three years, kvass constituted as much as 30% of the soft drink market in Latvia, while the market share of Coca-Cola fell from 65% to 44%. The Coca-Cola company had losses in Latvia of about $1 million in 1999 and 2000. The situation was similar in the other Baltic countries and in Russia. Coca-Cola retaliated by buying kvass manufacturers and also started making kvass at their soft drink plants.[8][9][10][11]

Cultural references

Kvass has a long tradition in Russian culture. In Fyodor Dostoevsky's The Brothers Karamazov, monastery kvass is mentioned in the dinner scene as being famous throughout the neighborhood.[12] In Leo Tolstoy's The Death of Ivan Ilyich, kvass is made first thing on a holiday morning.[13] In Anton Chekhov's The Cherry Orchard, kvass is mentioned early in the play, "Bring me some kvass, would you?"[14]. In Ivan Goncharov's Oblomov, and in Tolstoy's Anna Karenina, kvass is repeatedly mentioned. In Sholem Aleichem's Motl, Peysi the Cantor's Son, diluted kvass is the focus of one of Motl's older brother's get rich quick schemes. The Russian expression "Перебиваться с хлеба на квас" (literally "to clamber from bread to kvass") means to barely make ends meet, remotely similar to (and may be translated as) the expression "to be on the breadline".[15] To better understand the Russian phrase one has to know that in poor families kvass was made from stale leftovers of rye bread.[16] In Against Nature (À rebours) the protagonist, Jean Des Esseintes serves kvass, along with porter and stout, for a funeral banquet "in memory of the host's virility, lately but only temporarily deceased."[17]

Similar beverages

Other beverages from around the world that are traditionally low-alcohol and lacto-fermented include:

References

  1. Serjeantson, Mary Sidney. A History of Foreign Words in English. Page 210.
  2. A recent example of the term "bread drink" can be found in the 2009 edition of Let's Go 2009 Europe, page 1050. Many other examples exist.
  3. ГОСТ Р 52409-2005. Продукция безалкогольного и слабоалкогольного производства ("GOST Р 52409-2005. Production of non-alcoholioc and mildly alcoholic products") (Russian)
  4. Michael Jackson's Beer Hunter - Porter and kvass in St. Petersburg
  5. Chicago Tribune
  6. Anthropology, By Edward B. Taylor, page 268.
  7. 7.0 7.1 7.2 Russia's patriotic kvas drinkers say no to cola-nisation. The New Zealand Herald. BUSINESS; General. July 12, 2008.
  8. The real thing?: Coke cashes in by producing nostalgic, Soviet-era drink
  9. Latvian Mailer - June 2, 2001
  10. Coca-Cola HBC - Products and Marketing
  11. Coca-Cola ups stake in Estonia - Atlanta Business Chronicle:
  12. The Brothers Karamazov. Fyodor Dostoevsky. p. 85. Farrar, Straus and Giroux (June 14, 2002). ISBN 0374528373.
  13. The Death of Ivan Ilyich'. Leo Tolstoy. p. 127 Penguin Classics (May 27, 2008). ISBN 0140449612.
  14. Tom Stoppard (translator), The Cherry Orchard, Grove Press, 2009
  15. [1]
  16. Svyatoslav Loginov, "We Used to Bake Blini..." ("Бывало пекли блины...") (Russian)
  17. J.-K. Huysmans, Against Nature, trans. Robert Baldick, New York: Penguin Books, 1959.

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