Gweedore

Gweedore
Gaoth Dobhair
Bunbeg3333.jpg
A view of Gweedore from Bunbeg beach, with Mount Errigal in the background.
Location
Location of Gweedore
centerMap highlighting Gweedore
Irish grid reference
B847228
Statistics
Province: Ulster
County: County Donegal
Dáil Éireann: Donegal South West
European Parliament: North–West
Dialling code: 074 95, +000 353 74 95
Population (2002) 4,065
Website: http://www.gweedore.net/

Gweedore (Irish: Gaoth Dobhair[1]), is an Irish-speaking district located on the Atlantic coast of County Donegal, Ireland. It's also the home of the northwest regional studios of the Irish language radio service RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta,[2] and it is officially the largest Irish-speaking parish in Ireland with a population of around 4,065.[3] Gweedore consists of villages Bunbeg, Derrybeg, Dunlewey, Crolly and Brinlack,[4] and it sits in the shade of Donegal's tallest peak Mount Errigal.[5]

Contents

Name

Gaoth refers to an inlet of the sea at the mouth of the Crolly River, (pronounced as Gwee-Door) known as An Ghaoth. It is the boundary between Gweedore to the north and the Rosses to the south. Dobhar is an old Irish word for water. Gaoth Dobhair translates as the aqueous estuary.[6]

Language

The predominantly spoken language of the district is Irish, but English can be heard and understood as well. All schools, religious services and advertisements are through Irish.[7] Every summer hundreds of students from all over Ireland attend Coláiste Cholmcille (Columcille's College) in order to further their knowledge and understanding of the Irish language.[8] This is a Gaeltacht area, where the Irish language is the first spoken, providing an unbroken link with millennia of Irish history and culture.

A view of Gweedore from Bloody Foreland.

Since most of the inhabitants of the village are naturally bilingual, it is common to hear English vocabulary used within an Irish sentence and vice versa. A rich subset of unique vocabulary and phrases has arisen from this bilingualism and owing to this, the village has attracted some curious interest from both lexicographers and etymologists in the past. Some examples of these phrases and words are given below, with their standard English definitions:

(All these terms are in common use in the Glasgow area. Many natives of this part of Donegal settled in the west of Scotland and there is still considerable interaction between the two places.)

History

The Ulster Plantation in 1609 added a twist to the fate of the parish. Irish-speaking families who were driven from their fertile lands in the Lagan and the surrounding areas made their way to the poor boglands of west Donegal. Some of them made it as far as Gweedore and could go no further west. Around the same time, English and Scottish settlers began to arrive, when this uncharted territory was converted to baronies. It appears the parish was very sparsely populated up until the 17th century. The first people to arrive lived on the islands or by the shore in clusters, pockets of houses built close together and in each other's shade. Up until the early 19th century the parish was only lightly populated and it seems the people had an amicable relationship with the landowners.[9]

The standard of life was to deteriorate with the arrival of new landlords in the 19th century, in particular George Hill (1801–1879) and his son Arthur. The people of the parish led by Fr. James McFadden (Irish: Séamus Mac Pháidín), the parish priest in 1875-1901, challenged the landlords with the founding of the Land League and the Plan Of Campaign. The killing by parishioners of District Inspector William Martin (or locally known as An Mháirtínigh) outside the local church, Teach Phobail Mhuire, in Derrybeg on Sunday, the 3 February 1889, while trying to arrest Fr. McFadden with a drawn sword, was the climax of the Land War in Gweedore.[10] The case was recalled in the 1928 memoirs of Tim Healy, who defended some of the parishioners.[11]

An Irish-American journalist WH Hurlbert also investigated the landlord-and-tenant dispute in Gweedore in minute detail in his book "Ireland under Coercion", published in 1888.[12]

Many books have been published in English, but mostly in Irish detailing Gweedore's rich history. One of the most prolific of local historians would be the late Cáit Nic Giolla Bhríde.[13]

Freak storm

On the afternoon of Tuesday, 23 June 2009, a severe thunderstorm struck Gweedore. It was centered on the adjoining villages of Bunbeg and Derrybeg, and lasted for several hours causing two rivers to burst their banks, flooding houses, shops and factories, ripping up roads and destroying bridges. Lightning which lasted for two hours damaged power lines and caused a major breakdown of mobile phone signals, causing people trapped by the floods to be unable to communicate. Up to 20 houses were cut off from the outside world after three access bridges were carried away by the swollen rivers. [14][15]

Described as the worst storm 'in living memory', it was also the most severe since 1880 when 5 people drowned in Derrybeg. Owing to the highly localised nature of the storm the areas of maximum rainfall missed the network of rain gauges but the Irish Meteorological Service estimate that between 2pm and 6pm up to 60mm of rain fell at the core.[15][16]

Economy

The main R257 road which runs right through Gweedore, seen here in Derrybeg.

In the 1980s and 1990s, Gweedore had a thriving factory industry, where up to 20 large companies were established producing rubber, carpets, slendertones, and cleaning agents. But in 2001 the companies were dealt a serious blow when most of these companies were destroyed by cheaper Eastern European products. Up to 4,000 dealers were lost, and this affected Gweedore and surrounding areas very badly.[17] The factory in the townland of Crolly have been manufacturing porcelain dolls since 1939 under the name Crolly Dolls.[18]

In 2003, the estate was renamed as Páirc Ghnó Ghaoth Dobhair (Gweedore Business Park), and the Gaeltacht body, Údarás na Gaeltachta, started a campaign to try to entice businesses to Gweedore in hope of reviving their lost economic stability. This worked to a certain extent, when Scottish company Contact 4 opened a call centre on the estate, which provided more jobs in the community. In 2006, the companies that remain there are very successful, such as Euro Iompú Teo, Bia Ghaoth Dobhair,[19] Contact 4 (now Iasachtaí Críonna)[20] and Celtic Transcripts.[21] Other businesses include a few supermarkets, convenience stores, beauticians, hairdressers, contractors, garages, Pharmacists, pubs, cafes, and five well-established hotels.

Education

There are five primary schools in Gweedore, in the townlands of Derrybeg, Bunbeg, Mín an Chladaigh, Dobhar, and Luinneach. The only community school (post primary) is Pobalscoil Ghaoth Dobhair, established in Luinneach in 1977, and is managed by headmaster Noel Ó Gallchóir.[22] All these schools teach their students through the Irish language, and they sit their government exams in Irish. In 2004 National University of Ireland, Galway expanded to Gweedore when they opened Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge,[23] providing third level education through the Irish language to over 80 students every year.

Physical features

Gweedore is renowned for its distinct physical features. Probably the most recognisable feature is Errigal, the tallest mountain in County Donegal,[5] which overshadows the picturesque Dunlewey Lough. It is surrounded by the deep glens and lakes of the Poisoned Glen, and further on, Glenveagh national park and castle, the largest national park in Ireland.[24] Another landmark is 'Bád Eddie' (Eddie's Boat), Cara Na Mara("Face of the Sea"), a shipwreck which has been situated on Magherclogher beach since the early 70s where it had run ashore due to rough seas.[25]

The rugged Gweedore coast, shown here in Bloody Foreland.

The Gweedore coastline consists of long sandy beaches and rugged cliffs. Also, off the Gweedore coastlines are many small islands, including Gola,[26] and Tory.[27] In the background a series of mountains, glens and bogs which have combined with the bracing weather to keep this part of the world relatively secluded.

Transport

Gweedore railway station opened on 9 March 1903, closed for passenger traffic on 3 June 1940 and finally closed altogether on 6 January 1947.[28] Coaches that operate from Gweedore include Collins Coaches Donegal to Glasgow,Feda Ó Dónaill,[29] Coyle's Coaches,[30] John McGinley,[31] Patrick Gallagher Coaches,[32] and Crónán Mac is available for private hire in the locality.[33] For many years the Lough Swilly Railway Company provided a bus service for the area, which transported people to places such as Letterkenny and other surrounding parishes.[34]

Sport

The local GAA clubhouse and grounds with Gweedore and Mount Errigal seen in the background.

Sport plays a very important role in the lives of the local people, sports such as Gaelic football, soccer, golf and various others are exercised religiously by locals both young and old. There is the local Gaelic Athletic Association club CLG Ghaoth Dobhair (Gweedore GAA),[35] that provides facilities in Machaire Gathlán for young Gaelic football hopefuls, the local golf club and voluntary soccer clubs Gweedore Celtic,[36] Gweedore United, Glenea United and Dunlewey Celtic that take part in both county and national competitions.

Scottish soccer player Pat Crerand's mother hailed from Gweedore, as did Aiden McGeady's grandmother. Both of them still spend a lot of time in the area.[37]

Arts

Panoramic view of Magheraclogher beach and Gweedore Bay, also the site of the famous shipwreck, the Cara Na Mara (Friend of the Sea) on the tidal sandbanks. The boat, best known as 'Bád Eddie' (Eddie's Boat), ran ashore due to rough seas in the early 70s.

Gweedore has provided its fair share of famous musicians. Clannad were formed in 1972, and have since gone on to sell over 15 million records. Altan (initially Ceoltóirí Altan)[38] are another band from Gweedore that have put the area on the global stage, they are led by Coshclady fiddler Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh. Gweedore's most successful musician is Enya, or Eithne Ní Bhraonáin;[39] she first appeared on stage in Amharclann Ghaoth Dobhair as a member of Clannad, before going on to become one of the world's biggest-selling artists, with sales exceeding 80 million.[40] Other local singers include Aoife Ní Fhearraigh,[41] Brídín Brennan,[42] Na Casaidigh,[43] Proinsias Ó Maonaigh,[44] Gearóidín Breathnach, Seamus McGee[45] and Maria McCool.[46] The well-known 1970s group Skara Brae also had strong links with the district. There are two active choirs in the area. Cór Mhuire Doirí Beaga, led by Baba Brennan and Eileen Nic Suibhne[47] and Cór Thaobh 'a Leithid, led by Doimnic Mac Giolla Bhríde.[48] Both have recorded successful albums.

The popular Frankie Kennedy Winter Music School takes part in Gweedore every new year in memory of the famous Belfast musician who was married to Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh, until he died of cancer in 1994.[49]

The song Gleanntáin Ghlas' Ghaoth Dobhair, was written by local man Proinsias Ó Maonaigh expressing an exile's final farewell to the green valleys of Gweedore.

Religion

The Catholic parish of Gweedore has four churches: Teach Pobal Mhuire or St. Mary's in Derrybeg (built in 1972; after the previous 'old chapel' had flooded on many occasions),[50] Teach Pobail an Chroí Naofa or Sacred Heart in Dunlewey (built in 1893), Teach Pobail Naomh Pádraig or St. Patrick's in Meenaweel (built in 1938) and finally, Séipéal Cholmcille or Columba's in Bloody Foreland (built in 1933). The only Protestant chapel in Gweedore is St. Patrick's Church of Ireland, situated in Bunbeg.

Place names in Gweedore

Because Gweedore is in the Gaeltacht and partly due to the provisions of the Official Languages Act 2003, while both English and Irish versions of placenames are used, most road signage uses the Irish version exclusively.

Alphabetical listing

Mount Errigal is one of Gweedore's most significant physical features.
The Poison Glen, situated in the east of Gweedore, near the village of Dunlewey.
A pier at Curransport in the north-east of Gweedore.

Islands

  • Tory (Toraigh) - although not directly situated off the coast of Gweedore, the main ferry crossings are from the area.[51]

Notable people from Gweedore

See also

References

  1. ↑ Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004.
  2. ↑ RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta
  3. ↑ http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/travel/destinations/ireland/article2544786.ece A Lost Weekend in Donegal
  4. ↑ Logainmneacha Ghaoth Dobhair, Tír Chonaill, Éire
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 Gweedore and Mount Errigal
  6. ↑ Logainmneacha Ghaoth Dobhair, Tír Chonaill, Éire
  7. ↑ An Chrannóg - Lárionad Gaeilge
  8. ↑ Coláiste Cholmcille Gaoth Dobhair, Condae Dhún na nGall, Summer courses for irish students
  9. ↑ Gweedore Donegal
  10. ↑ History of Gweedore, Chapter One
  11. ↑ Healy memoirs online, chapter 22
  12. ↑ Hurlbert W vol.1, pp.66-122 online text
  13. ↑ Coiscéim 1996
  14. ↑ "Horror storms flood west Donegal"
  15. ↑ 15.0 15.1 Donegal Democrat, Clean up underway after freak flash flood in Gweedore, 24 June 2009
  16. ↑ Met Service report on the flood
  17. ↑ RTÉ Business: Downturn forces Donegal factory cutbacks
  18. ↑ Crolly Dolls History
  19. ↑ Bia Ghaoth Dobhair/ Bia Ghaoth Barra
  20. ↑ Iasachtaí Críonna Teo
  21. ↑ Call Centre Outsourcing | Call Centre Services Consulting Specialists | Contact 4 Call Centres
  22. ↑ WWW.GAOTHDOBHAIR.COM - Fáilte go Pobalscoil Ghaoth Dobhair
  23. ↑ http://www.acadamh.ie/ionaid/gaoth_dobhair.html Is ceantar fíor-Ghaeltachta é an ceantar seo agus tá dhá cheantar láidre Gaeltachta eile ar an dá thaobh de, is é sin le rá Gort a' Choirce agus Rann na Feirste
  24. ↑ Ireland : Active Pursuits : National Parks | Frommers.com
  25. ↑ rPhotosOnline.com :: Gweedore, Ireland, July 2005 :: Img_0201
  26. ↑ Gola Island
  27. ↑ Oileán Thoraí / Tory Island - nine miles off the Donegal coast, North-West Ireland
  28. ↑ "Gweedore station" (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. http://www.railscot.co.uk/Ireland/Irish_railways.pdf. Retrieved 2007-10-15. 
  29. ↑ Feda O'Donnell Coaches from Donegal to Galway and Donegal to Glasgow
  30. ↑ Coyles Coaches - Coaches for Hire in Co. Donegal, Ireland
  31. ↑ John McGinley Coaches
  32. ↑ Donegal Derry Belfast - Patrick Gallaghers Coaches, Gweedore, County Donegal
  33. ↑ Letterkenny to Donegal Airport, Donegal Airport Bus, Aerbhus Dhún na nGall
  34. ↑ Lough Swilly Page
  35. ↑ Gaoth Dobhair
  36. ↑ Gweedore Celtic Football Club | CEILTIGH GHAOTH DOBHAIR
  37. ↑ "The Big Interview Aiden McGeady". The Times (London). 1 May 2005. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/sport/football/article387301.ece. Retrieved 4 May 2010. 
  38. ↑ Altan lyrics, music, biography, records, band, album, videos, CD, and the discography including Altan famous works
  39. ↑ Enya Biography - Read music reviews and compare prices at Yahoo! Shopping
  40. ↑ http://wordpress.hotpress.com/themusicshow/2009/09/01/nicky-ryan/
  41. ↑ http://www.aoife.ie/ Gweedore, my home in North West Donegal is the traditional heartland of the county. This Irish speaking area has produced its share of singers and musicians
  42. ↑ http://www.bridinbrennan.com/about_bridin/index.html The Brennan family, consisting of four brothers and five sisters, grew up in the wild and remote North West town land of Dobhar in Donegal
  43. ↑ The Cassidys Traditional Irish Music
  44. ↑ http://beo.ie/index.php?page=archive_content&archive_id=1184 Fógraíodh ag deireadh na míosa seo caite go bhfuil Proinsias Ó Maonaigh as Gaoth Dobhair roghnaithe mar Uachtarán ar Oireachtas na Gaeilge 2004.
  45. ↑ http://www.seamusmcgee.com/home.htm Gweedore, County Donegal singer, Seamus McGee, has more than a home-place in common with members of the internationally renowned group, Clannad
  46. ↑ Donegal County.com & Dún na nGall.com - Gaoth Dobhair /Gweedore
  47. ↑ Moya Brennan : News Archive
  48. ↑ Donegal County.com ~ Dún-na-ngall.com - Nuacht /News, Vol.7 No.4 June/July, 2006
  49. ↑ Home - Frankie Kennedy Winter School
  50. ↑ http://www.donegaldemocrat.ie/donegalnews/Cleanup-gets-underway-in-Gweedore.5397213.jp
  51. ↑ Tory Island Ferry, County Donegal, from Magheroarty and Bunbeg to Oileán Thoráigh

External links