French wine

French wine and French gastronomy are often enjoyed together.

Vineyards in Vosne-Romanée in Burgundy, a village that is the source of some of France's most expensive wines.

Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Bordeaux corresponds well to the traditional image of a prestigious French château, but in reality, French wineries come in all sizes and shapes.

French wine is produced in several regions throughout France, on over 800,000 hectares (over 2 million acres) of vineyards, and in a typical year between 50 and 60 million hectolitres of wine is produced, or some 7 to 8 billion bottles.^[1] France has the world's second-largest total vineyard surface (behind Spain) and competes with Italy for the position of having the world's largest wine production. The earliest history of French wine goes back to the 6th century BCE, and many of France's regions count their wine-making history to Roman times.

France is the source of many grape varieties (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah), several winemaking practices,and the names of many French wine regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne are widely known.

French wine plays an important role in French identity and pride. The combination of French wine and the equally influential French gastronomy has been an important one. Over the last decades, however, international competition in the wine industry has become more fierce, and France has been challenged both by winemakers of the New World and by traditional wine-producing countries in southern Europe, while domestic consumption of wine has decreased. Because the French wine industry is heterogeneous and ranges from production of cheap table wine to expensive First Growths and similar "luxury" wines, these changes have had varied impacts on winemakers. Regions plagued with constant overproduction of low-quality wines cannot find buyers, and many smaller growers have an increasingly difficult time making a living; however, many top producers experience high demand and high profits.

Two central concepts to high-quality French wines are the notion of terroir and the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system. "Terroir wines" reflect their place of origin, which are specified on labels of French wine, usually in terms of the wine's appellation. Appellation rules closely define which grape varieties and winemaking practices are allowed in each of France's several hundred geographically defined appellations. These rules must be followed by all producers who wish to use an AOC designation for their wines.

History

Main article: History of French wine

French wine originated in the 6th century BCE, with the colonization of Southern Gaul by Greek settlers. Viticulture soon flourished with the founding of the Greek colony of Marseille.^[2] The Roman Empire licensed regions in the south to produce wines. St. Martin of Tours (316-397) was actively engaged in both spreading Christianity and planting vineyards.^[3] During the Middle Ages, monks maintained vineyards and, more importantly, conserved wine-making knowledge and skills during that often turbulent period. Monasteries had the resources, security, and motivation to produce a steady supply of wine both for celebrating mass and generating income.^[4] During this time, the best vineyards were owned by the monasteries and their wine was considered to be superior.^[5] Over time the nobility developed extensive vineyards. However, the French Revolution led to the confiscation of many of the vineyards owned by the Church and others.^[6]

Although Bordeaux exported some wine, until about 1850 most wine produced in France was consumed locally. The spread of railroads and the improvement of roads reduced the cost of transportation and dramatically increased exports.^[7]

Quality levels and appellation system

In 1935 numerous laws were passed to control the quality of French wine. They established the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée system, which is governed by a powerful oversight board (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine - INAO). Consequently, France has one of the oldest systems for protected designation of origin for wine in the world, and strict laws concerning winemaking and production. Many other European systems are modelled after it.^[8] The word "appellation" has been put to use by other countries, sometimes in a much looser meaning. As European Union wine laws have been modeled after those of the French, this trend is likely to continue with further EU expansion.

French law divides wine into four categories, two falling under the European Union's Table Wine category and two falling under the EU's Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) designation. The categories and their shares of the total French production for the 2005 vintage, excluding wine destined for Cognac, Armagnac and other brandies, were:^[9]

Table wine:

• Vin de Table (11.7%) - Carries with it only the producer and the designation that it is from France.
• Vin de Pays (33.9%) - Carries with it a specific region within France (for example Vin de Pays d'Oc from Languedoc-Roussillon or Vin de Pays de Côtes de Gascogne from Gascony), and subject to less restrictive regulations than AOC wines. For instance, it allows producers to distinguish wines that are made using grape varieties or procedures other than those required by the AOC rules, without having to use the simple and commercially non-viable table wine classification. In i like order to maintain a distinction from Vin de Table, the producers have to submit the wine for analysis and tasting, and the wines have to be made from certain varieties or blends.

QWPSR:

• Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure (VDQS, 0.9%) - Less strict than AOC, usually used for smaller areas or as a "waiting room" for potential AOCs.
• Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC, 53.4%) - Wine from a particular area with many other restrictions, including grape varieties and winemaking methods.

The total French production for the 2005 vintage was 43.9 million hl (plus an additional 9.4 million hl destined for various brandies), of which 28.3% was white and 71.7% was red or rosé.^[9] The proportion of white wine is slightly higher for the higher categories, with 34.3% of the AOC wine being white.

In years with less favourable vintage conditions than 2005, the proportion of AOC wine tends to be a little lower. The proportion of Vin de table has decreased considerably over the last decades, while the proportion of AOC has increased somewhat and Vin de Pays has increased considerably.

In 2005 there were 472 different wine AOCs in France.^[10]

Wine styles, grape varieties and terroir

All common styles of wine — red, rosé, white (dry, semi-sweet and sweet), sparkling and fortified — are produced in France. In most of these styles, the French production ranges from cheap and simple versions to some of the world's most famous and expensive examples. An exception is French fortified wines, which tend to be relatively unknown outside France.

Numerous grape varieties are cultivated in France, including both internationally well-known and obscure local varieties. In fact, most of the so-called "international varieties" are of French origin, or became known and spread because of their cultivation in France.^[11] Since French appellation rules generally restrict wines from each region, district or appellation to a small number of allowed grape varieties, there are in principle no varieties that are commonly planted throughout all of France.

Most varieties of grape are primarily associated with a certain region, such as Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Syrah in Rhône, although there are some varieties that are found in two or more regions, such as Chardonnay in Bourgogne (including Chablis) and Champagne, and Sauvignon Blanc in Loire and Bordeaux. As an example of the rules, although climatic conditions would appear to be favorable, no Cabernet Sauvignon wines are produced in Rhône, Riesling wines in Loire, or Chardonnay wines in Bordeaux. (If such wines were produced, they would have to be declassified to Vin de Pays or French table wine. They would not be allowed to display any appellation name or even region of origin.)

Traditionally, many French wines have been blended from several grape varieties. Varietal white wines have been, and are still, more common than varietal red wines.

In many respects, French wines have more of a regional than a national identity, as evidenced by different grape varieties, production methods and different classification systems in the various regions. Quality levels and prices varies enormously, and some wines are made for immediate consumption while other are meant for long-time cellaring.

If there is one thing that most French wines have in common, it is that most styles have developed as wines meant to accompany food, be it a quick baguette, a simple bistro meal, or a full-fledged multi-course menu. Seldom have the wines been developed or styled as "bar wines" for drinking on their own, or to impress in tastings when young.

Terroir

Main article: Terroir

A Cahors chateau and vineyard

The concept of Terroir, which refers to the unique combination of natural factors associated with any particular vineyard is important to french vignerons.^[12] It includes such factors as soil, underlying rock, altitude, slope of hill or terrain, orientation toward the sun, and microclimate (typical rain, winds, humidity, temperature variations, etc.). Even in the same area, no two vineyards have exactly the same terroir, thus being the base of the Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) system that has been model for appellation and wine laws across the globe. In other words: when the same vareital is planted in different regions, it can produce wines that are significantly different from each other.^[13] In France the concept of terroir manifests itself most extremely in the Burgundy region.^[14] The amount of influence and the scope that falls under the description of terroir has been a controversial topic in the wine industry.^[15]

Labelling practices

A French wine label, from a Bordeaux château. From the top down it says:^[16]
1. that the producer was classified in the 1855 classification
2. the name of the château (Haut Batailley)
3. the appellation of the wine (Pauillac)
4. the vintage
5. another mentioning of the appellation including the crucial words "appellation contrôlée"
6. its origin of production (France - Bordeaux)
7. the alcohol content
8. the producer's name
9. the volume of content
10. that the wine was estate bottled (mis en bouteille au chateau)

Many French wine labels contain a wealth of information for the knowledgeable reader (see example to the right). With the exception of wines from the Alsace region and their Germanic influence, France had no tradition of varietal labelling of wines. Varietal labelling was not allowed under appellation rules. Since New World wines made the varietal names "household names" on the export market, in the late 20th century, more French wineries started to use varietal labelling. In general, varietal labelling is most common for the Vin de Pays category. Some AOC wines in "simpler" categories are also allowed to display varietal names, but these wines are rather few. For most AOC wines, if varietal names are found, it will be in small print on a back label.

In the shown example, readers can, depending on their level of knowledge of French wine, deduce what sort of wine is in the bottle. The 1855 classification indicates (but does not guarantee) a high grade of quality. Then comes the producer's name in large letters. The label reveals the appellation as "Pauillac" and that furthermore, this is a Bordeaux wine. Finally, the label indicates that the wine was produced in France.^[16]

An important bit of information is the place of bottling, as this can indicate on what "level" the wine is produced; that is, produced by the millions or by a smaller producer:

• "Mis en bouteille au..." chateau, domaine, or propriété indicate the wine was actually made at the same location as it was grown. "Au chateau" means that it was bottled at the chateau printed on the wine's label, using grapes from vineyards around the chateau itself. "Au domaine" means that it was bottled "at the field," while "à la propriété" means bottled "at the estate." "Mis en bouteille dans nos caves" or "mis en bouteille dans nos chais" means that it was probably bottled in a different place than it was grown, using grapes traded and bought on the open market.
• "Vigneron indépendant" is a special mark of independent wine-makers, to distinguish them from larger corporate winemaking operations and symbolize a return to the basics of the craft of wine-making. Bottles from independent makers carry a special logo usually printed on the foil cap covering the cork.

If varietal names are displayed, common EU rules apply:^[17]

• If a single varietal name is used, the wine must be made from a minimum of 85% of this variety.
• If two or more varietal names are used, only the displayed varieties are allowed.
• If two or more varietal names are used, they must generally appear in descending order.

Wine regions of France

Map of the principal wine regions in France

The recognized wine producing areas in France are regulated by the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine - INAO in acronym. Every appellation in France is defined by INAO, in regards to the individual regions particular wine "character". If a wine fails to meet the INAO's strict criteria it is declassified into a lower appellation or even into Vin de Pays or Vin de Table. With the amount of appellations in France too numerous to mention here, they are easily defined into one of the main wine producing regions listed below:

Alsace

Alsace is primarily a white-wine region, though some red, rosé, sparkling and sweet wines are also produced. It is situated in eastern France on the river Rhine and borders Germany, a country with which it shares many grape varieties as well as a long tradition of varietal labelling.

Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a large region on the Atlantic coast, which has a long history of exporting its wines overseas. This is primarily a red-wine region from Medoc (Chateau Lafite, Chateau Latour, Chateau Mouton, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Haut Brion), St-Emilion (Cheval Blanc, Ausone), Pomerol (Petrus, Le Pin). Bordeaux also makes dry and sweet white wines, including some of the world's most famous sweet wines, from the Sauternes (Chateau d'Yquem) and Barsac (Chateau Coutet, Chateau Climent)appellation.

Burgundy

Burgundy or Bourgogne in eastern France is a region where red and white wines are equally important. Probably more terroir-conscious than any other region, Burgundy is divided into the largest number of appellations of any French region. The top wines from Burgundy's heartland in Côte d'Or command high prices. The burgundy wines are divided in three part :

• La cote de Nuits ( Marsannay-La-Cote to Nuits-Saint-Georges)
• La cote de Beaune (Beaune To Santenay)
• La cote Chalonnaise (Givry, Rully and le Maconnais)

Two parts of Burgundy that are sometimes considered as separate regions are:

• Beaujolais in the south, close to the Rhône Valley region, where mostly red wines are made, in a fruity style that is usually consumed young. The "Beaujolais Nouveau" is the only one wine that can be legally consumed in the year of his production (Third week end of November)
• Chablis, halfway between Côte d'Or and Paris, where white wines are produced on chalky soil giving a more crisp and steely style than the rest of Burgundy.

There are three main varietal of wines used in Burgundy: Chardonnay which is used to produce white wines. Pinot Noir to produce red wines. Aligoté is known to be a componant of Kir.

Champagne

Champagne, situated in eastern France, close to Belgium and Luxembourg, is the coldest of France's major wine regions and home its major sparkling wine. Champagne wines can be both white and rosé. A small amount of still wine is produced in Champagne (as AOC Coteaux Champenois) of which some can be red wine.

Corsica

Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean the wines of which are primarily consumed on the island itself. It has nine AOC regions and an island-wide vin de pays designation and is still developing its production methods as well as its regional style.^[18]

Jura

Jura, a small region in the mountains close to Switzerland where some unique wine styles, notably Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille, are produced. The region covers six appellations and is related to Burgundy through its extensive use of the burgundian grapes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, though other varieties are used. It also shares cool climate with Burgundy.^[19]

Languedoc-Roussillon

Languedoc-Roussillon, by far the largest region in terms of vineyard surface, and the region in which much of France's cheap bulk wines have been produced. While still the source of much of France's and Europe's overproduction, the so-called "wine lake", Languedoc-Roussillon is also the home of some of France's most innovative producers. They try to combine traditional French wine and international styles and do not hesitate to take lessons from the New World. Much Languedoc-Roussillon wine is sold as Vin de Pays d'Oc.

Loire

Loire valley is a primarily white-wine region that stretches over a long distance along the Loire River in central and western France, and where grape varieties and wine styles vary along the river. Four subregions are situated along the river:

• Upper Loire is known as Sauvignon Blanc land, producing wines such as Sancerre AOC, but also consisting of several VDQS areas;
• Touraine produces cold climate-styled white wines (dry, sweet or sparkling) from Chenin Blanc in Vouvray AOC and red wines from Cabernet Franc in Bourgueil AOC and Chinon AOC;
• Anjou-Saumur is similar to the Tourain wines with respect to varieties, but the dry Savennières AOC and sweet Coteaux du Layon AOC are often more powerful than their upstream neighbours. Saumur AOC and Saumur-Champigny AOC provides reds; and
• Pays Nantais is situated closest to the Atlantic, and Muscadet AOC produces white wines from the Melon de Bourgogne grape.

Provence

Provence, in the southeast and close to the Mediterranean. It is perhaps the warmest wine region of France and produces mainly rosé and red wine. It covers eight major appellations led by the Provence flagship, Bandol.^[20] Some Provence wine can be compared with the Southern Rhône wines as they share both grapes and, to some degree, style and climate.^[21][20][22] Provence also has a classification of its most prestigious estates, much like Bordeaux.^[23]

Rhône

Rhone Valley, primarily a red-wine region in southeastern France, along the Rhône River. The styles and varietal composition of northern and southern Rhône differ, but both parts compete with Bordeaux as traditional producers of red wines.

Savoy

Savoy or Savoie, primarily a white-wine region in the Alps close to Switzerland, where many grapes unique to this region are cultivated.

South West France

South West France or Sud-Ouest, a somewhat heterogeneous collection of wine areas inland or south of Bordeaux. Some areas produce primarily red wines in a style reminiscent of red Bordeaux, while other produce dry or sweet white wines. Areas within Sud-Ouest include among other:

• Bergerac and other areas of upstream Dordogne;
• Areas of upstream Garonne, including Cahors;
• Areas in Gascony, also home to the production of Armagnac, Madiran, Côtes de Gascogne, Côtes de Saint-Mont, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and Tursan;
• Bearn, such as Jurançon; and
• Basque Country areas, such as Irouléguy.

There are also several smaller production areas situated outside these major regions. Many of those are VDQS wines, and some, particularly those in more northern locations, are remnants of production areas that were once larger.

Trends

France has traditionally been the largest consumer of its own wines. However, wine consumption has been dropping in France for 40 years. During the decade of the 1990s, per capita consumption dropped by nearly 20 percent. Therefore, French wine producers must rely increasingly on foreign markets. However, consumption has also been dropping in other potential markets such as Italy, Spain and Portugal.

The result has been a continuing wine glut, often called the wine lake. This has led to the distillation of wine into industrial alcohol as well as a government program to pay farmers to pull up their grape vines through vine pull schemes. A large part of this glut is caused by the re-emergence of Languedoc wine.

Immune from these problems has been the market for Champagne as well as the market for the expensive ranked or classified wines. However, these constitute only about five percent of French production.

French regulations in 1979 created simple rules for the then-new category of Vin de pays. The Languedoc-Roussillon region has taken advantage of its ability to market varietal wines.

Organizations

L'Office national interprofessionnel des vins, abbreviated ONIVINS, is a French association of vintners.

References

See also

• List of Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée wines
• List of VDQS wines
• Wine label
• History of Wine
• List of Vins de Primeur
• Old World wine

External links

• The official French wines home page
• French Wine Guide