Trisul
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| Trishul (त्रिशूल) | |
|---|---|
 Trishul from Bedini Bugyal |
|
| Elevation | 7,120 metres (23,360 ft)[1][2] |
| Location | Bageshwar, Uttarakhand,  India |
| Range | Kumaun Himalaya |
| Prominence | 1,616 m (5,302 ft)[3] |
| Coordinates | [1] |
| First ascent | June 12, 1907 by Tom Longstaff, A. Brocherel, H. Brocherel, Karbir[4] |
| Easiest route | Northeast flank/north ridge: snow/glacier climb |
Trisul (Hindi: त्रिशूल) is a group of three Himalayan mountain peaks of western Kumaun, in the central part of Uttarakhand state of India, near the Bageshwar district. They form the southeast corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, and are located about 15 kilometres (9 mi) west-southwest of Nanda Devi itself. Trisul is named after the trident of Lord Shiva. The main peak, Trisul I, is notable for being the first peak over 7,000 m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed, in 1907.
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[edit] Description of the massif and neighboring peaks
The three peaks are named Trisul I, Trisul II, and Trisul III. The massif is a north-south ridge, with Trisul I at the north end and Trisul III at the south. Trishul is best viewed from Kausani and Bedini Bugyal.
Nanda Ghunti lies a few kilometers to the northwest, while Mrigthuni is just to the southeast.
| Mountain | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Coordinates | Prominence (m) | First ascent |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trisul I | 7,120 | 23,359 | 1616 | 1907 | |
| Trisul II | 6,690[5] | 21,949 | [6] | <200[7] | 1960 |
| Trisul III | 6,007 | 19,708 | <200[7] | 1960 |
[edit] Climbing history
[edit] Trisul I
.JPG/300px-Trisul_mountain_(00283).JPG)
T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in September 1905, focussing on the western and southern sides. He returned in 1907 with two other Britons, three Alpine guides, and a number of Gurkhas. They ascended through the Rishiganga valley, to the north of the peak, onto the Trisul Glacier, which lies on the east side. From there they climbed the northeast flank to the north ridge, reaching the summit on June 12.
Early expeditions to the peak had problems due to fearful porters, who refused to climb the mountain, as they considered it sacred.[citation needed]
Routes on the west face and south ridge of Trisul I have also been climbed. The west face was first ascended in 1976; this was the first ascent of the main summit not using the first-ascent route.
[edit] Trisul II and III
Trisul II and Trisul III were first climbed in 1960 by a Yugoslav team. They climbed from the Bidalgwar glacier, achieving the summit of Trisul II via the southern ridge and Trisul III via the north ridge.
Another Yugoslav expedition made the first traverse of the three peaks in 1987, and two members paraglided from the summit.
[edit] Trivia
Alex Kunaver was a member of the first Yugoslav team which climbed Trisul in 1960. In 1987, his daughter Vlasta Kunaver climbed Trisul I and was one of the paragliders.
[edit] Access
The Trisul massif can be accessed via the following route: Almora - Kausani - Garur- Gwaldam - Debal - Bagargad - Wan - Bedini Bugyal - Kelva Vinayak - Roopkund - Trisul.
[edit] References
- ^ a b H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya", American Alpine Journal, 1985, p. 137.
- ^ Some sources give 7,172 m (23,530 ft).
- ^ Himalayan ultra-prominent peaks on peaklist.org
- ^ Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
- ^ This elevation is from the Himalayan Index. Some sources give 6,660 m (21,850 ft).
- ^ From the Himalayan Index.
- ^ a b Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost (1:150,000 scale topographic map), Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1992; based on maps by the Survey of India.
[edit] Other sources
- This My Voyage by T. G. Longstaff.
- Across Peaks and Passes of Kumaun Himalayas by Harish Kapadia.
